That's the plenty of space side. Should fit just fine. The extra metal for shim is a fine solution. Did you just use what you cut off from the extra? I should update my repair guide to include that idea.

Yeah that Andrewwynn sure is a genius! Hilarious ;)

Good to get noticed. I'll put my actual problem solving skills 1 on 1 any time.

No exactly sure what your problem is with helping others out but you do you. Anti-helpb that is great for internet help forum.

Must suck to harbor that kind of hate for no reason. Good luck with that.

FYI yes, literally genius.

@Andrew Hi, great so space wise should be ok, as for the the metal shim, initially yes was from some left over shim, but again even the shim took some attempts, so in the end it was some metal from some extra long st.steel ties I had, that I cut about 10cm off and got going with shim process....

Again please stay on gaurd as have a slight thing nagging me alot now which may mean i have to undo my whole fix and start over

It's important to get the mini gears in correct sync.


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Exactly dunno if i have done that, and am scanning images / vids of movement now of carriers on sale on the web if they tally with way mine is ....don't have a new one to hand to see compare, and the old one i repaired off course didn't notice just plugged back in that arm with teeth into the gears after lubing it up and saw it had movement and thought that's it....here are the pics but no idea if one can tell if it is ok or not?....only if i compare with a new part or old decommissioned one..so am sorting of pulling my hair out now as this will force me to go get a new one.... here are the pics sideways one is of carrier as it in resting position (highlighted in yellow where the door handle bolt goes), and other image is as far out as it goes (simulating handle pull-i wedged a little whit bit in to keep it out)

Yup think i have made a pigs ear of this by ignoring that arm gear teeth situtation, looking at ones on sale first 2 images, arm needs to be in a different position...plus i compare the cable length showing highlighted in circle on mine, to ones on sale and i have too much on show, telling my arm is in wrong place ....thing is when i do undo all my work :( then difficult to tell where the right place is for that arm with teeth only via photos....so may end up having to buy a new one....or basically do i position the arm fully up in my case and accompanying cable to the final position whereby i have on show as little as possible of the cable so to speak, and i'm good? very frustrating had my older carriers somewhere but cannot find em, and ok not the end of the world to buy a new one but sort of defeats having to fix this one

bahhhh 5:38 shows the open close situation i am way out with what I did, now do i sit here now all night and give it another go? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge7-HJ0DUz0 BMW X5 Door Handle Carrier Removal and Installation DIY E53

Not mine. If the doors are locked, the handles still move through their full motion - they simply door not open the door. They "dry fire" as you put it.

You can pull the axle out vs. redo the steel strap but it's not easy. Ask me how I know.

I think due to exactly three same reason.

You have practice with the strap now it'll probably be easier to just redo it.

That said if the axle just taps out don't have much to lose I forget if there's any retention besides friction.

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

We had 01 models I wonder when they changed that. Good to know before e70 however you are also rhd and not us market so I would be curious.

I was shocked that ours had the blocking version of the DLA.

Same part number as newer models usually if they revise something there will be a new number and supercede. Well good for you to have that. I would have family yank the handle before unlocking and I'd have to have them release the handle and re-trigger the unlock.