I was super frustrated when a buddy of mine jacked my E53 on the front lower control arm. :yikes:

I do that when changing a tire only takes 2-3 pumps with my speed jack to lift the tire. The fronts only are 1200# each and that's nothing for the suspension parts (well not the wishbone that I would not use)

I drilled down the TIS into e53 and e90. Posted above the results.

E90 says diff ok avoid the back plate, e53 says don't do it.

Good to know! I was using the directives from other cars and have lifted from the diff.

I'm curious if there is a reasonable substitute eg lifting from the subframe even if I have to make a jig, it's like 8x the effort to lift at the jack points, though I could maybe do with help and two floor jacks.

One directive I saw for 3 series approved use of subframe around dif.

Since breaking and repairing one of the bolts holding the diff to the subframe, I've started jacking from the subframe right behind the diff. The sway bar runs across there as well. A 4x4 with a slot cut for the sway bar takes care of any chance of damaging the sway bar. I don't think it's likely, but you never know.

Can you post some dimensions so I can clone that?

I have to do my subframe bushings and would love to have the jig before.

My jack only has about 17" Mac height so I might double up the 4x4 to get more height.

I'm stunned BMW didn't put a jack point in the back since no go on diff.

PS: I'm curious what bolt broke, there shouldn't be any bolt that can break with 3200#

Wish I'd seen this before starting. I watched two YouTube videos and read the Wayne's World post and none of them said how tight to make the bolts. But two implied you don't want them to vibrate off which I mistakenly took as "tight". You explain how tight very well. So I will try to bump your thread for other novices like me:


DIY: 2006 BMW X5 3.0i PARTIAL Cooling Overhaul @ 116K miles

It did tear my bushing though. :dunno:

Actually what I referred to is that: once you have a problem with let's say fan clutch or thermostat, you are > 100K miles, chances you a lot of stuff are waiting to fail: reservoir, thermostat, WP etc. etc. etc.

This is why in BMW forums, when people discuss M52, M54 engines, they always recommend a partial cooling overhaul at 100K or so.
And the complete cooling overhaul at 180K-200K.

PS: For small bolts such as the 10-mm bolts you broke: here is my tip. I use a tiny bit of Red Loctite, then tighten using only 1 finger or the pinky.

No 8. Snapped off where the thread stops which just about lines up with how far it threads into the diff case.