What's a pirate's favorite letter?






Rrrrrrrrr.


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This is my experience too. The dry air in the southwest probably has taken its toll on the seals after 17+ years. I used to have my mechanic top it off, usually in the spring every couple of years, starting about year 7. Now I do it myself when needed with one of these:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/A-C-Pro-A...0-OZ/353326131

And an temperature gun pointed at the vents, with Max AC on, after each small fill is done. As long as the gauge stays in the green zone I wait until the temp gets down to the 40's and then stop.

I bought the high mileage refill for next time. It may help with the seals.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ac-Pro-A-...nces/444741999


Original thread when I first had the problem:

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ht-thread.html

Thanks all.

I went ahead and bought the AC-Pro refill bottle, however, the gauge reads on the green area (about 45 PSI). So, I think my problem is unlikely to be the cooling gas.

I am going to look into the "bowden cable" next. Gonna look at trying to get it done through the radio rather than taking off the entire dash.

With mine, AC Pro gauge gets to the right third of the green area before it starts to cool well. I haven't measured the pressure after filling it to that point because I don't have a full gauge set.

Adding this info in case you thought that once it's in the green area the AC should be cooling as normal. Even at the midpoint of the green area my AC doesn't work effectively.

I only hold the trigger down for two or three seconds before checking at the vents if the cooling has improved.

Edit: Of course, use this advice at your own risk, using this technique may damage something expensive. It has worked for me for the past three years.

Make sure your heater control valves are closed (scanner will display heater core temp or you can feel the outlet hoses going to the to heater cores)


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Thanks, that's helpful. Yes, the needle from the AC Pro gauge is on the right third of the green area (i.e. closest to the yellow area).

I was afraid of adding any gas in case it was already full. Also, the temp rocker/dial between the center vents won't stay on the 3 blue dots, it always wants to go to 2 dots, so that's why I am going to look at that before adding gas.

Thanks Andrew. The heater outlet hoses are the smaller black hoses by the driver side of the radiator?

Heater hoses coming off of the heater valves at the firewall left side of the car


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For the last year or so, my 2006 X5 3/0i with 140K has the same issue even when engine is cold, leaving the house in the morning when engine temp is not hot yet...

- Drive vents x2 (1 center and the left vent near the driver's door) are COLD.
- Pass vents x2 (1 center and the right vent near the pass's door) are LESS COLD.

I read somewhere that the AC system in a car loses about 1-2 ounces of R134a per year, natural loss. Almost like a tire losing air pressure with time.

I guess it is time to add R134a...

my A/C is blowing really cold now, w/o any changes made
 

After I posted #7 on this thread, I received no responses about just how far the A/C control dial should turn, and why it always retreats from 3 blue dots to 2, by itself. Afraid to snap off the Bowden cable, I turned it as far as I could, then wedged a stick into the slot to keep it pulled tight, and left it that way for a month.

I drove the X5 to my Dr. today, over a month since I last drove it. The blue dot dial felt a bit looser, turning more easily toward "cold" (though the dial still backs up on its' own), and once again I set the controls to 72F degrees & recirculate, but had better results.

My last drive was in 95+F ambient, yielding 44F at the vents, but todays drive was in 86-88F ambient, and the temperature of the vent airflow was 38F. I don't know if the cable stretch helped, or the ambient temperature decrease was entirely responsible for the improvement.

I'd still like to know if the blue dot dial should stop in a certain spot or not?