Xoutpost.com - 2002 X5 Lockout, Good Battery, Tried Almost Everything

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".... Roadside Assistance guy tried pressing down on the central locking button with his lockout rod, nothing. ....

I am not saying you do or don't but the central lock/hazard button often breaks from the bottom of the button assembly. You need to unlock the car, but when you can, test to see if the hazard light button works..If not, remove the switch assembly and super glue the broken base back together.

I think you may have to break a window. I would figure out the easiest /cheapest piece of glass to replace (the smallest might not be it) and let it rip.

Removing the battery from your (aftermarket) key fob likely un-synched it with the car's locking system.

This is one reason why I lose sleep if I don't have two working keys for each of my cars.

Good luck

Looks like the "experiment" cleared up some misconceptions. :)

The central locking system(FZV) and anti-theft alarm siren system (DWA) is controlled by the GM/GM III. The manual locking procedure for the driver's door (when using the door lock cylinder under power) is carried out over the P-bus by way of the door module to the GM/GMII. When using the remote fob...the 315MHz RF (radio frequency) signal is sent from the remote fob, to the FZV aerial in the rear (left) cargo window...then onto the FZV amp/receiver...then onto the GM/GM III where the signal is then sent to lock/unlock and arm/disarm the vehicle over the P-bus.

As already mentioned...starting the car is carried out by EWS...which is a separate system that uses a 125 KHz AM signal...where the remote fob, Ring Antenna, EWS control module, and ECU/DME are all communicating with each other and verifying that an encrypted ISN (individual serial number) matches.

Below is some BMW tech info that shows the location of some of the components and explains the mechanical disconnection that occurs when the vehicle is "double-locked" versus "single-locked".

{location of FZV antenna for BMW Tourings & SAVs}

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...20location.jpg

{E53 X5 FZV amp/receiver location}

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...20Location.jpg

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...dule%20e53.jpg

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...20Info%201.jpg
http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...20Info%202.jpg

I'd suggest to the OP that:

1. Get the real key from BMW for ~ $250.

2. Fix the door cylinder system too.
Or could be the actuator issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cn90 (Post 1210639)

I'd suggest to the OP that:

1. Get the real key from BMW for ~ $250.

2. Fix the door cylinder system too.
Or could be the actuator issue.

I certainly agree with this, but it won't help him unlock it now

https://www.thebmwminipartstore.com/ is the place to go for OEM keys, and I think the full-featured OEM fob is less than $250...maybe $180?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Qsilver7 (Post 1210621)

Thank you for this information.

I'm just waiting on lockout kit to arrive to try the procedure for unlock with the central lock button and door handles. I've seen searching around that you've aided in tons of these situations, given my set of circumstances do you think that this will work in my case?

I think the tech tried engaging the hazards and I don't think they went on. Is it possible that switch has malfunctioned?

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1210613)

So you don't have to hold the central lock. The "heard the lock" is the double lock motors disabling the double lock.

there is likely a caveat; things are likely to change after 16 minutes when the car goes to sleep, maybe that's the difference of having to hold the central lock button.

Back to the Problem at hand; if you have a trailer hitch measure the vBat to confirm the voltage is over 10 and you can expect the door motors to work. Then follow the above ideas.

If you need to saw/drill out the lock, post back I can send a measurement of exactly where to cut/drill to remove the lock cylinder (would send with pm, don't need that data that easy to Google search)

No trailer hitch unfortunately. I'll get back to you about the drill if my next attempts with the lockout kit doesn't work - I did see some pictures in another post for the drilling method, it's just that little screw to the right of the keyhole right?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2d457dc74f.jpg
You should be able to use a simple hacksaw blade. Put a thin piece of.steel between the rubber and either the door or the cylinder holder. The rubber gasket will be destroyed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by spaceleaf (Post 1210648)

Or bat too low to operate.

I think you'll find sawing through the screw may not be very difficult and the easiest way in.

Happy to report I have gotten into the vehicle.

None of the aforementioned sequences of double lock disengagement were of use to me as I wasn't able to reach the central locking button from the outside, so I can't comment on their effectiveness in this scenario.

User "oldskewel" sent me some insights from his experience with a similar situation and I was able to replicate the process for myself. For the safety of all bmw's out there I probably won't post is here for wandering eyes, but if someone sees this in the future and needs help please feel free to reach out and I'll be happy to pay it forward.

Really cool to know there's a community of helpful individuals here.

Great you are in. Order the lock cylinder fix and a genuine key if you can't sync your knock off.