Ditto...thanks for the update to let us know that you did get the door open successfully. Good luck with the rest you need to do to get everything working properly. :thumbup:

Apologies for reviving a dead thread. Does anyone have the part number handy to replace the little screw? I'm in a similar predicament. Looking at the exploded diagram, I think it's 07119919723 (no. 17 on the diagram), but it isn't terribly obvious what it's pointing to.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7752

I bought this one -
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...4f6118023WmHYs

A note though, I had to reuse one piece from my vehicle (the long middle screw-looking piece that turns and does the unlocking) as the one that came in this package was just slightly shorter and thicker (either for 3-series or another variation of the x5 i think?). Either way it was fine as the broken piece in mine was one of the slide-in circle pieces, worked fine with the other new pieces. good luck.

I have a kit to repair the cylinder, just need to find the screw that holds the barrel assembly on the car

I think the screw you want is the one that usually comes with the door handle carrier. Did you drop the screw into the door??

Nr.17

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_7752

Referring to that realoem drawing, the screw that holds #11 (the cast piece holding the lock cylinder) to #15 (the door handle carrier) is #17 as not-clearly shown in that diagram. Listed there it is M5x20.

More specifically on that screw,
it is an Allen (hex) socket head cap screw, taking a 4mm Allen key
overall length is 24mm, the head is 5mm long, so the threads are 19mm long. If much longer than that, the protruding threads will interfere with the plastic cap that snaps over the lock (#9 in the diagram).

So, not knowing your situation, one option would be to get an M5x20 Allen socket head cap screw. If that is a little too inconvenient to find, another option would be to get an M5x20 hex head screw (takes an 8mm hex socket), and you might need a washer or some re-engineering of the parts (e.g., with a Dremel).

And a tip for reinstalling that #11, many people report problems doing that while replacing their door handle carriers with non-OEM parts such as the Febi that I used on all 4 doors. If you look at the casting, you might see how it is supposed to push in (#11 going into #15) during insertion, and then once fully inserted, it (#11) can slide towards the front of the car by a millimeter or so, before installing the screw (#17). That little slide forward can make the seemingly impossible possible, and eliminate the gap that may be left once all is finished. If you don't slide it forward, you can muscle it in, but might damage the screw or carrier, leave a gap, declare failure, etc. I did not make notes of the exact details on what needs to be done here, but there is a little trick that is not obvious unless you look for it.