I just got it in about 15 min, had to push hard on the hub to pivot the spring bottom platform but was able to get in barely with the rubber pad.
next time I will just remove the spring and do the integral link then put spring back in. whew.
Thanks andrewwynn for the tip

I can't remember if the swing arm has a hole down the middle where you could use internal also, you may just need a tiny bit of help to get the spring in the right place to push the swing arm up with floor jack

Funny I had my reply as a draft for a good while. Saw the end result after I posted. Glad my suggestion helped of course.


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I got the spring in, needed to push hub in from top and pry spring in with pad. Not too hard.

Tip, remove the spring to replace integral link. Also use a large flat tip screwdriver to tap the integral link into place while jacking up the hub. Had I known this, I would have saved two days on this project. All done, sway bar link, integral link, ball joint, control arm, thrust arm, and sub-frame bushings. Now to do the other side :(

It will go muuuch faster.


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This video helped also show me it is possible to put in spring without a compressor.
https://youtu.be/KPvp0YCuPrU?t=625

Turns out the spring goes back in without major issue.
If anyone does the rear ball joints, do not buy the ebay tool, only buy the Pelican Parts or Turner or ECS rear ball joint press or BMW etc. They are over $130 but worth it, I spend 3 days truing to get the ebay one to work and it only worked after I broke a bearing and realized I needed to file down the flat spot inside edge to fit the wheel hub. Just buy the right tool. I lucklily could swap the bearings to it finally worked but barely.
Don't use this one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/401839111915

I bought one similar to this one;

PMD Products Tool is Compatible with Repair Replace of BMW Rear Ball Joint and Bushing Tool for These Models E38 E39 E52 E53 E60 E61 E63 E64 E65 E66 E67 E70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Z0QQFM...V171MAQZYQC1XX

I paid $55 but this one even less. You can see that people have had success with similar model as e53 so it has a solid chance and buy via Amazon you can return no questions asked if it doesn't work.

The thing the cheap ones is they will likely have cheap bolts so it's critical to lube and take your time let the part move a little each turn as well as the thrust bearings are likey under rated; I crushed one of them using to remove a tension strut bushing which it was the perfect size just wasn't up to the task at the weak point of cheap thrust bearing. I bought new thrust bearings on Amazon.

uxcell AXK1730 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 17mm Bore 30mm OD 2mm Width 2pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FHT39S4...ing=UTF8&psc=1

They were so much thinner than the original I needed to use part of the original as a spacer but $6 brought the tool back to life.

It probably takes 20-25,000# of force to push this bearing and that is very close to the limits of the tool in the cheapo tools so lubrication is very important.

Thanks andrewwynn, I will get that bearing so I can then sell the thing. I paid $75 on ebay, I am guessing it is the same one, same factory in China?
Mine was an issue of thinness, likely the China factory does not have a micrometer to test thickness their manufacturing process so mine got shipped out of spec. Since it hit the edge of the ball joint on the exit, it just pushed against itself until brearing broke with my long wratchet. BMW could have made extra space like every other car so you could just use a generic press. I lubed mine with grease, luckily it held up, rented a press from Oreilly's to get it pushed in.

I also have the PMD tool from Amazon and it worked fine.

AM.