Crank no spark/ignition usually means either loss of ews or a crank position sensor.

The previous loss of power sounds more like low fuel pressure or bad can position sensor.

(Very often no codes)

You need to test actual fuel pressure. Also; I recently fixed a car that crank no start because the fuel filter was installed with the output/return lines crossed sending no fuel to the engine (that error will show up as no pressure: I think you checked at the rail just not sure if you checked after swapping filter).

It's typical for the fuel pump to side fail. The symptom feels like a problem with the FPR.

One more thing; if fuel is near 1/4 tank is very likely that your siphon jet is leaking and you aren't getting fuel. If close to 1/3-1/4 tank add some gas just to eliminate that possibility.

Thanks for the suggestions. I couldn't get to this yesterday because of work. Today I pulled the forward most spark plug out, no sign of oil or fuel on it (put it back and cranked and pulled it out again and still no sign).

I checked for fuel at the rail after I put the new filter in (didn't think to check before). It's there, but i don't know if it's enough. I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge at O'Reilly's, guess I need some way to jump the pump relay to use it because I don't have a helper. Also a problem for testing spark, maybe this weekend.

FWIW the fuel tank is currently 3/4 full so i don't think it could be a siphon issue. I could pull the pump out and check for a crack in the tube that goes to the top of the tank, but it really seems to gush out when I crank with a hose stuck in a bottle.

I guess I could throw a new fuel pump relay in if you think that might be the problem? But like I say, when I crank it gushes so I think the problem must be downstream from there. But maybe that's wrong.

You need to use a fuel pressure gauge. 50.0 psi not "gushing out". It needs to be stable.

My wife's previous car had very similar symptoms and the fuel pressure was 49-50 but would jump around so fast the needle looked translucent.

New FPR fixed hers.

Thanks. I will try to get the pressure gauge and a system for jumping the relay tomorrow. Bentleys says the jumper must be 14 gauge and have a 15 amp fuse. Is that correct (a wire would be a lot easier, but I will be going to O'Reilly's)?

I still think it's more likely the fuel system than the ignition, but I have been known to be wrong (ask my ex). Seems like I should check the actual pressure at the fuel rail and report back.

You def.need to meausure actual fuel pressure.tge crazy thing is wife's car sounded like no spark when yr he problem was weird fuel.

Static pressure was 50 but once I eventually did get it started it would jump from 48-50 or something like that. Was suggesting FPR problem and when I did post mortem on the FPR found the 8mm o-ring that was leaking and the actual problem. Could have just changed 40¢ o-ring vs $65 fuel filter. Live and learn.

Trying to test the fuel pressure but I'm not sure I'm doing it right. I have jumped the relay and can hear the pump running (although it sounds a bit inconsistent). There is definitely fuel at the Schrader valve, if I press it with a small screwdriver it comes out, but the pressure gauge I borrowed from O'Reilly's is not showing anything, ie the needle doesn't budge. I am using the "Ford Schrader Adapter" from the kit (the only thing that comes close to fitting), it threads on fine and I can press it in at the top and get fuel, but I am wondering if it is not seated all the way and maybe I need a different adapter? Is there any secret to this?

I did put new spark plugs in, because I had them. I have not tested for spark because I have not had anyone to crank for me. Is there any way around that?

If you get fuel flowing when you press the release valve then the gauge is probably hooked up ok.

Good point. I tried the release valve and got nothing, but I'm not sure I had the relay jumped when I did it and I'm not sure how much residual pressure there is. I will confirm in the morning.

The gauge adapter has to press the shrader valve button to register pressure.

If you hear the fuel pump and get a "splurt" of fuel at the rail you have the parts you need to test just need to get the gauge connected.


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With the pump running I get an occasional drip of fuel out of the relief valve on the pressure gauge, but it still doesn't register anything. I am wondering if the schrader adapter is fully engaging. I do get a splurt of fuel if I take the gauge off and press in the adapter top with a screwdriver.

The pump sounds a bit rough to me, but I do hear it constantly running. I asked O'Reilly about a different adapter and all they could say was that kit "works on all vehicles".