What would cause this seal to blow out? It has run fine for several weeks. I know it was seat properly. I looked at it while installing several tank coolant sensors. After installing new OEM dealer seals, it's worse now. It doesn't leak while idling. It does leak when moving. Vibration is causing leaks. The replaced plate may not fit properly. I'll check the lock clip. I wonder if one side is not seated properly.

The tank was replaced too. Unfortunately, the other new tank didn't fix the "check coolant level" warning. I'll check the plug for power. I'll even try a temporary bypass.

I had the same problem and mine was that the middle thin flange got a rolled edge on installation. The hard plastic flanges got screwed (twice [emoji28]) because of angle of entry....

Granted you may have something completely different but at .15 cents each it's worth buying extras.

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If that's what I think it is, that cooler was very difficult to get fully seated on the radiator plate. I had to use silicon spray, a 4ft pry bar, and more leverage than I was comfortable with. It took at least 30 minutes because I was scared I was going to break something. Finally got so frustrated I went hog on it and it popped in. :dunno:


Edit: And as EODguy mentioned. Going in straight is key. Very frustrating job...

Hog tie it on? HMMMMM.......
The plate has a plastic pinnacle. It's the stopping point right? I need to look at it more closely. Or is the plastic pinnacle a guide? I remember using a good size pry bar to get it off.
Does anyone have a picture of it seated? How far in does the cooler go into the mounting plate?

The two tanks tried were included in kits. I've ordered an OEM Nissens.

Here's the best oil cooler gap picture I could find after a search. :wow:

This week, I'll remove the shroud and fan. Installation instructions state to install the cooler with a unmounted plate! Coolant and transmission oil are lost. However, the first part states, insert the lock clip. Push the cooler until it clicks in place. I'll try to reseat it with the shroud and fan off. Pictures will be taken on final cooler/plate gaps.

Hog tie? I "went hog" as in exerted as much pressure as it took to either break something or fit the part. Result be damned. :rofl:

But this Pelican article has a few shots that might help. Though they are from an M62 I think the coolers are all similar?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart..._Replacing.htm

This is probably the best pic.

Attachment 83910

Pelican pics did show up on a search. I didn't blow up that pic for a big view. I'm more convinced the cooler is not seated correctly. I think the plastic pinnacle is stopping it short. A picture showing the pinnacle was not found. Your picture shows the pinnacle right under the yellow arrow.

A new mounting plate arrives tomorrow. It will be a back up plan. The coolant will be drained. I'll go "hog on it". The OEM upper hose was almost hot tied to pull off. I couldn't get it off the coolant tank. It took 15 minutes or more since it was on so tight. I felt it was going to break off. A new tank will go on too. The "check coolant level" notice is annoying.

Make sure to buy at least a double set of X-rings as that flange is what rolled on me and made it a straight up pain in the ass...

#22 aka #17https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...847da3d8d8.jpg

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EODguy, I bought four from a local dealership. The closest dealer didn't have any. I drove across town 20 miles to the other dealership. They had 5. I bought four. Two are on it now. Two more are available incase one or both are damaged.

a bit of grease or dishwashing detergent might help with that ;)