Tricky crank no-start problem
 

I need some help. I'm in over my head now.

I have a 2003 E53 3.0i. It ran mostly fine last May--mostly fine in that it occasionally acted like it was stuck in 3rd gear, but that mostly went away after replacing the VANOS solenoids. With tuning and minor physical changes, it was doing 0-60 in 6.5 seconds. No idea on the quarter, haven't done that yet.

I got the bright idea of making a sleeper out of it and taking it to the track, which required doing a bunch of mods to the car, starting with the oil pump. Dumb, I know. It's been mostly fun. I work on it outside, on the ground.

Over the winter, I rebuilt the engine, ported the heads on both sides, replaced all the VANOS seals, valves, front/rear seals, bearings, and basically had the engine and head down to piles of parts that I cleaned thoroughly and put back together. Now everything is reassembled except the front suspension, and the vehicle won't start.

The 2ndard air is removed, and air from the turbo is disconnected and coming through the MAF via a 14" 3" tube to get to the OEM boot to the throttle body and IAC. I undid all my mods to make it as stock as possible, including EDU changes. PCV is connected via 5/8" hose to a catch can and vacuum.

Crank no-start basics:
- does it have air? Yes, the throttle body is working, and I tried with/without the MAF. IAC is connected, and IAC ports on the intake and head are clean without obstruction.
- does it have fuel?
--Yes, new Walbro 450lph fuel pump with 51 PSI fuel pressure on the fuel rail, the spark plugs smell like gas, and the Innovate Wideband O2 says 7.98 AFR (lowest reading possible is 7.39)
--built a noid-style light to flash when the #1 fuel injector was fired, which lights up (used an old trailer light and some alligator clips). I also record the DS2 output while I'm test cranking and see the injectors called on to open for 19ms average (1.3% duty cycle)
--using stock fuel injectors, with my 70lb ones on the shelf.
- does it have spark?
--Yes, tested 2 spark plugs with a probe and grounded them where I could see the spark. I may order 6 inline testers, but they're not for recessed plugs, so I may have to fiddle with them.
--New NGK spark plugs
- crank position sensor - replaced and verified with an o-scope. The ECU threw codes when testing with the CPS unplugged and is clear with it plugged in. It's showing the expected square wave on the o-scope.
- cam position sensors - not replaced, but not reporting codes and this worked before I removed the engine. Intake and exhaust cam sensors tested with o-scope and are reporting as expected, at least to my mark 1 eyeballs
- crazy settings in the ECU? I flashed the ECU back to virgin, removed the 2ndary air and got the same results
- did starter fluid help? With the fuel off and only using starter fluid, a cylinder lit off a couple times, then the intake backfired and the intake boot caught fire. That wasn't fun. It took me half a day of cleaning the intake and everything around it to convince myself there wasn't any more white powder in anything important. I have not tried starter fluid with the fuel valve on.
- timing? I timed the head 3 times when reassembling it (because I'm that bad). While reinstalling the engine a ratchet strap broke that was setting the engine tilt angle and it bumped the side of the engine bay but did not dent the bay or the engine. Something could be off there, but the valves don't touch the pistons.
- EWS?
--The car dings when I insert the key, send fuel, spark, etc. My code reader does have messages about key 1 and 5, but key 1 remote features don't work, and I have a key blank where the remote features work but the key isn't cut. I used both of these before, and they still work the same way.
--I took a backup ECU with an identical flash as my original OEM and did an EWS delete. With that ECU, the fuel pump doesn't turn on, so ... I put that back on the bench and haven't tried it since.
- Ignition switch? I installed a new ignition switch, had no effect.
- Battery - this car it tough on batteries unless you drive it regularly anyway. I have a platinum AGM battery that outputs 12.4 volts. The ECU reports 11.93 volts before cranking, and 10.5 volts while cranking. To eliminate the battery, I connected a battery charger with start assistance and put it in that mode while testing, with the same results.
- crank speed? ECU reports 140 RPM, which should be sufficient. Am I correct? I couldn't find any data or specs on what that is supposed to be.
- ignition timing? Controlled by ECU tune, which is virgin now. ECU reports 1.3 degrees. VANOS says passive mode only, intake 126, exhaust -105.
- compression? Since I've been trying to start this for 3 weeks, I have wet cylinder walls and my compression is down. I put 4 squirts of Castrol 10w/30 into each spark plug hole yesterday before trying to start again. Before I put the oil in, compression was 125 - 170 PSI. Before I tore the engine down, it was 175-195 PSI.
- ECU codes? None except sometimes says it can't get CAN temperature and thinks the engine is at 50C.

- anything else? I know my heads are leaky in the valve seal and while I got decent compression, the leak down test was miserable. I intend to get the heads redone or buy another head and port that one. Even with a lot of lapping, I couldn't get a good seal on these. Best guess is porus valve sleeve. This shouldn't affect starting, just power output.

I hope I've covered all the questions that might be asked. I'm stumped and it's not a comfortable position. So, um, help?

Long term no power where crank no start usually is the EWS. It's stupid it didn't just block the crank.

You said you did EWS delete but undid? What do you see on scan of EWS module?

The only sensor I know that prevents a start is the cpk crank position sensor.

You mentioned no codes on cps. Of the dozen or so I've replaced only ones ever had a cps related code. They work -ish and cause an inherited unrelated code. Won't affect start but wanted to throw that out there in case you get it started and it likes to stall with no cps code.

Replaced Crankshaft sensor already
 

Got a random code on it and since it can cause other issues, like the 3rd gear thing I thought I solved with Vanos solenoid, I just replaced it. Once I actually plugged it in, the ECU code went away.

What do you mean by no power with EWS? Do you mean, not starting weirdly due to EWS? I only did the EWS delete on my backup ECU, which turned out to not be turning on the fuel pump. My primary, factory ECU with EWS still enabled does turn on the fuel pump correctly. I can try disabling EWS on my primary EDU also. :dunno:

EWS delete must be DME deleted too. The module bypass must be in place or the starter wouldn't crank. I know, I did it to mine while chasing down a parasitic draw. The good thing, it was reversible.
What's the difference in compression between cylinders? More than 10% on the next cylinder is not good.

No power usually from long shop time battery disconnected.

At least once a year maybe twice somebody has your symptom after a battery drain or disconnected.

They will see EWS errors though why I asked if you saw any.


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EWS codes
 

I looked up the EWS codes...had to pull out the code reader, they do not show up as DTC code.

Code | Name | Explanation
12 | N/A | Key number 1 not valid because of wrong changing code
13 | N/A | Toleration of changing code increased with Key #1
0F | N/A | Power On Reset
50 | N/A | Key number 5 not valid because of wrong identification

I don't know which key is #1, but I thought that if the car "dinged," it recognized the key. I think key #5 is the blank key fob I have where the remote features work, but the key has never been cut.

I did try the EWS sync via the MS43 tool, but it said it failed.

I'll grab my primary ECU, bring it up in boot mode, disable EWS, and try again. I soldered on a resistor and a button switch to both of my ECUs to make entering boot mode easier...

Nah on ding. It's moronic. If EWS not happy you should not get crank! It's asinine. I think you're on a path to success.

I'm confused though you said 3.0 e53 and also turbo.

What chassis and engine are you working here?


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Those EWS codes you have will prevent starting and it sounds like the EWS delete you attempted on the other DME didn't work. If your car has the round port in the engine bay, you need to use the round port adapter or jump two pins and reinstall cap to be able to communicate to non-DME modules and this includes performing the EWS sync process. If yours does not have the round port under hood then you may have a faulty EWS module itself. Either way a proper EWS delete tune should solve it, but there's no reason not to simply get EWS to work since this car was originally ms43.

Round obd port ended in mid 2000 build date. I call the 2001 made before July a 2000.5. My wife had one I did the short out the pins in the cap trick. There's actually two sets of pins to short. I posted on xo but I don't think in a clean thread so unsure if I could find

I added the turbo
 

It's an E53 chassis with M54B30. I added the turbo on the front above three exhaust manifold. The plumbing was easier there. I'm a pathetic welder, especially with flux core MiG.

I gathered it was an add on but I was curious if you put n54/55 in there!


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I don't think it's EWS
 

That's what I thought too, the EWS must be ok or it wouldn't crank, fuel pump wouldn't pressurize and no spark and I have all of those.

I added the EWS delete to my nearly virgin bin and flashed it in boot mode, then read it back and verified the settings in the read bin file. EWS delete was there, but no change in behavior.

Couple other weird things. There is a buzzing sound coming from near the intake manifold while the ignition is on/terminal 15, but I can't track it down. No codes thrown. Second is that those 2 cylinders on top the heater hose return on the right of the engine bay are really hot.i pulled out the laser temp gun and got readings close to 160F. I don't know what those do. There's a plug there but I'm not sure where the wire leads.


While cranking I measured 14.6v at the front terminals, so I think I should have plenty of power. Crank speed off 140 should indicate enough battery power too, though I've seen other systems crank no start with low voltage but three cranking sounded fine. Holley EFI comes to mind.

I have an intake manifold for an N55 that I built out and adapted for the M54 but took it off as I was diagnosing why it won't start, in case I had the injector angle wrong or something else. I have the injectors up high instead of right at the valve input, and a 45 degree angle instead of the stock 30 degrees. It's irrelevant at the moment though since I tried to make it as stock like as possible to help diagnose things.

The head porting just opens up airflow and shouldn't affect starting, correct? That's something I can't reverse (and I spent 2 weeks doing it)

The buzzing sound is the idle control valve -- it uses a solenoid that it rapidly opens and closes in a PWM kind of control. That's normal from what I can tell.



Head porting shouldn't affect starting. Have you verified there is fuel getting into the cylinder is my question? This all sounds like EWS to me. Did you take a plug out and see if there is fuel on it? You should have a ton of unburned fuel on it if the EWS is not out of sync. I'm not sure if I read correctly whether you had already verified fuel or not.

On e53 EWS error moronically allows crank I can't remember if it cuts power to spark or injector or both. I think it powers the fuel pump; also moronic.

I think EWS/DME hiccup the cause it'll run with the modified injector locations my opinion

I've pulled all the plugs, they all smell of gas strongly. I randomly tested 2 plugs for spark, though my dad wants me to test again with my 8/0 jumper cables to ensure there's ground for days.

My wideband O2 says AFR is 7.98 while cranking and 22 while not cranking.

I did the EWS delete from MS4x.net, flashed ands verified the bin file. I don't know how to verify it on the car. It acts the same sob umm hoping I've eliminated EWS. The car isn't even trying to start right now. I would using starter fluid that was a mix of hexane and ether, and my front fuel valve turned off. I can't crank it and spray starter fluid art the same time, plus I'm Leary of that since it caught fire last time after a loud before out the intake.

I'm sure I have a sufficient amount of unburnt fuel in my oil too. It had fresh oil in it but once I get it running I'm going to change it again.

A quarter size puddle of laquer thinner inn the bottom of the intake will usually run a motor for 20-30 seconds as it evaporates. No need to spray.

Check for spark trigger at the 12v connector to the coil.

What are the EWS delete steps and what does the scanner show after?

The two cylinders on the top of heater hose sound like the heater core control valves left and right. (if by right side of engine bay you meant left (just in front of the USA left hand drive steering wheel)). I suspect that they get "cooled "from the coolant going through sui they are used to temps over 200 but why so hot when not even being used.

I hear you and agree, except that I flashed my factory ECU back to virgin+EWS delete+DS2 this afternoon, reinstalled it, and no joy. Everything turns, but no hint of any start.

I also just attached jumper cables directly to the battery negative post and 2 places on the engine, the exhaust manifold and the left ring on the front of the head. Does the same thing.

If I push the gas pedal while cranking it does make a different noise too, so I feel the throttle body is working.

My 2003 doesn't have the round plug as far as I know, plus with the EWS delete I shouldn't need it. Plus, my understanding is that EWS is what sends the second signal to the starter solenoid telling it to engage the flex plate gear. The engine is rotating.

I'm all ears on ideas because I'm all out of them.

Other codes from code reader
 

These aren't regular ECU DTC codes, but from my RepairSol2 software plus Bluetooth OBD2 dongle:
EGS: 96, CAN Engine speed to transmission
EWS: same 4
KOMBI:
BF, IKE-EEPROM Error, coding incorrect/incomplete
8D, ATS Signal: Telegram Error or no telegram
F4: No CAN Id
C7: Lever-type sensor 1
D7: Level-type sendor 2
LM: 28, Thermal sensor for oil level defect (I replaced this last year, assuming it's the thing in the bottom of the oil pan)
LWS: (I haven't reset steering angle yet, have subframe on, but no front wheel assembly)
09, No ASC2 Embassy
0B, LWS ID False
05, EEPROM defect
10, Watchdog
MRS: (airbags, I took out a door airbag when replacing the window regulator)
50, Supply voltage
05, Ignition circuit 2k4/Side airbag front left

I don't see where any of these except for EWS have anything to do with starting, but the EWS delete is on the ECU and verified, plus I'm getting fuel and it's cranking. I havent' checked spark in a couple weeks, might do that again for peace of mind.

:dunno: As I mentioned above, I'm using this RepairSol2 thing that runs from my iPhone or Android and seems decent, it cleared airbag codes before, although it won't right now for some reason, can pump the ABS, does battery registration, etc. and only cost $50. I've looked at the Foxwell 630 for a while but never sprung for it because while slow due to Bluetooth I guess, this seemed to work. Is there a reason to get the Foxwell? Will it tell me more than what I'm seeing here? Is it worth it or is another better? I do have the INPA/INST+ and BMW essential tools, but they seem to only half work when connecting to or reading from the car. It's been sorta nice for technical materials, once you find them but it should be able to diagnose the car too, and while it reads some stuff I end up with communication errors at the end. Same equipment works with every other piece of software I've used from JMGarage to Renlovo to MS43 flasher and RT TunerPro. OK, I don't think I got it reading stats in real time with RomRaider, but I'm pretty sure that was RomRaider and I don't need that with RT TunerPro working great.

EWS doesn't stop the engine rotating just stops spark and/or fuel. You have fuel on plugs so I'm guessing spark (even more stupid) that's why people spend a lot of time solving EWS because it should not crank but does.

I suspect a limitation with the phone m scanning software. Even with bimmerlink and bimmercode I most certainly need to use foxwell. That said good thing you didn't get the 630 because the software you have is better!

Foxwell nt510/20/30 or nt710 are the models that do bidirectional scanning and can correct and diagnose EWS.

EWS steps I use.
 

Good to know about the lacquer thinner. I have an entire can of that where I've hardly used any. Used it when cleaning the block and the heads.

There are 3 pins going to the coil, in a triangle with the single point at the top. Which is the 12v pin? I can figure it out but knowing is easier.

Steps for EWS delete (Immobilizer Bypass) I did are from MS4X.net. https://www.ms4x.net/index.php?title...bilizer_Bypass

- Using RT TunerPro, edit the bin with their community patch list.
- Go to EWS, apply 3 patches.
- Save bin as a new file.
- Boot up ECU on my bench setup in boot mode by holding in a button switch that grounds one of the pins through a 10k resistor. I can always tell when the ECU comes up in boot mode because ms43flasher won't recognize the ECU and I have to
- establish communications with Renlovo ByteLogger first,
- read the ECU id,
- then go back to MS43flasher and flash the 512k bin file. It says it is writing the boot loader, then the program section, then the data.
- Once done, I power off the ECU and turn it back on without going into boot mode, and
- do a 512k read of the ECU with MS43flasher.
- I then take that file, open it in RT TunerPro and
examine the EWS settings to ensure this new bin file I just read says it has the patches installed.
- Next, I go to the car, disconnect the negative first, then positive cable, install the ECU in it's cramped little home, then plug the battery back in reverse order.
- After that, key in the ignition and see what happens.

Knowing that this engine floods easily, I don't crank back to back, or if I am, I do the full accelerator down for 10 seconds then release to clear the flood condition before I turn the key.

"compression was 125 - 170 PSI. Before I tore the engine down, it was 175-195 PSI"
My first two thoughts were EWS and compression. I'm back to compression.

I didn't want to take time to learn BMW coding when troubleshooting EWS and a parasitic amp draw. I went to these guys: https://racehuggins.com/product/ms43...ilizer-delete/
I bought a DME and did the EWS fuse mod. It was reversible since the OEM DME was untouched.

How many cylinders are low compression? Are they next to each other?

low compression
 

I consider all but cylinder 1 low, and even that one is 20 PSI lower than it was last fall. Cylinder 1 was 170 and they went downhill from there. I've been assuming lower compression was from cylinder wall wetting, but it may be the valves which I already knew don't seal completely--leak down test is bad.

cyl 1: 170
cyl 2: 145
cyl 3: 130
cyl 4: 150
cyl 5: 125
cyl 6: 135

I'm considering yanking the engine again, pulling the heads and trying to solve the leaking valves--which is on every cylinder. Over the winter, I got new exhaust valves, lapped and installed them, as well as lapping the intake valves too.

:dunno:

What do you think of the Foxwell nt624 elite? I really like the NT710, but this is $100 less. Knowing myself, I'll probably spring for the NT710 anyway. It appears it can do what the BMW software does, but it appears that it will be easier.

EWS fuse mod?
 

The Huggins Racing site offering does the same exact EWS delete in the ECU that I did, plus they need another ECU to work with. I've done a lot with BMW ECU configuration, so it wasn't difficult. The Foxwell NT710 looks interesting to make that easier though.

What is the EWS fuse mod? I didn't find anything useful in Google searching except ordering EWS kits.

I'm going to try to find INPA EWS sync and see if that works where the MS53 flasher version didn't. I'm still leaning towards compression due to valves at the moment, but I'd love to be shown wrong because that is a lot of work to do on a guess.

Heater valves
 

Right as in standing in front of the car, looking at engine bay on a US car. I assumed they were just heater valves, but have no idea why they're so hot when the engine is not running. There is only coolant flowing while it's cranking. The hoses on either side were 87F degrees.

The heater control valves are energized to turn "Off" and the coils are going to get warm so maybe you have the A/C on. Left and right are always as you are sitting in the car btw.

The 6xx aren't useful. Not bidirectional. The 5xx are far more useful.

The 7xx well worth the extra coin for one major reason: WiFi and self-updating.

I got the 7xx out of necessity when wife bought F10 and the 510 won't access necessary modules.

Did you remove the EWS module? After removing the module, install a 30 amp fuse in the connector. I trimmed a fuse to fit nice and snug. The X5 had no problem cranking up.

A Foxwell Pro520 works well. Slow but it does get the job done. With it, I was able to find and clear all kinds of codes. The bidirectional function helps too.

The slow 520 is the chassis: e53. Works much much faster on the e70.

I never had a chance to test the 710 on the e53.

Good to know, thanks.

I just ordered the 710, thinking future proof. There was an $85 coupon for it on Amazon, made it the same price as a nt624.

EWS test
 

I read about that test as a precursor to ordering they're kit. I haven't pulled the EWS but I'll try this before I take the head off and go down the compression route, and after I see what the nt710 tells me.

I have used my NT510 on both my E53 and my new E70 and the E70 is about 5x as fast as the E53 to do anything. It must just be a slower communication rate.

That's great and when I bought mine I got a similar deal. My 710 cost about the same as my 510 did 6 years earlier


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That's the same thing I noticed and I never pay attention to which mode of communication it locks in with but there are half a dozen and the older tech in e53 is much much slower


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Got my nt710 today, it's very nice
 

I have to say I'm pleased with all the nt710 offers, even though the interface takes a little getting used to, and updates took forever. I got the nt710 over the 520 or 624 because of the extra bi-directional things, plus I will probably get an E90 next... after I get an 8HP 1400 installed/working in the E53 after I break this fragile GM 5L40e, which is only rated for a 4,000 lb car anyway. The E53 is over 400 lbs heavier empty! Then I'll see if the trans-diff holds up, etc. This is a project car that I want fully streetable, and ultimately I intend to have a clutched supercharger and 2 turbos on it with the control system I'm building. That's why the H-beam rods, low comp Carillo pistons, high temp rings with plenty of gap, high temp bearings, etc.

Foxwell says my EWS is totally fine. I'm using key #2, and it's enabled and active.

Below are relevant pics from the Foxwell:
https://imgur.com/gkVwq11
https://imgur.com/MbYEVgI
https://imgur.com/9H3qUkM
https://imgur.com/yemnInf
https://imgur.com/a4KJ43l
https://imgur.com/3JhFfSP

Finally, in the link below, there is a short video of the car cranking. I depress the throttle for 2 seconds, release it, and then turn the key. About halfway through, you'll hear the sound change when I depress the throttle again while cranking to ensure the throttle body responds correctly. I didn't see a video embed control and didn't feel like uploading it to YouTube.

Click the sound icon in the upper right of the video to hear it.

https://imgur.com/i9IGw7S

Unless someone has a genius idea that neither I nor any of you have thought of, I think I'm stuck pulling the head off and addressing the compression issue. Some of the valves leak some but I never thought it'd be enough to prevent it from starting. Once I have the head off, I'll re-lap the valves and try to make them waterproof, reinstall them, and try again.

Please, someone, come up with another idea; I didn't really want to take the engine apart again so soon.
:confused:
I'll be back here in a few weeks and share whatever knowledge I've gained, even if it's only a sore noggin from banging my head against the wall.

The beatings will continue until morale improves...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4dc417328d.jpg
Pics didn't load but I was able to listen to the video.

What's your fuel pressure look like.

When wife's m54 e53 had a blown o-ring in her FPR I cranked about a dozen times about 8 seconds each before it finale fired up!

Check your fuel pressure at the rail key on no crank then turn off the key and monitor.

It should stay over 35-40 psi for an hour and then have 15-20+ overnight.

If it's zip overnight the fpr o-ring is blown or the check valve in he fuel pump but that I don't think will cause a non start.

Hoping it's the FPR. I did think I heard couple power strokes in that attempted start.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7fa8228fcd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...473ccc570d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...37916a761d.jpg


I'd have to look and see if I measured the tiny o-ring that was the trouble maker.

@donaldfoss You need to take a beer break, step back and start over with your trouble shooting. Make sure when you do fuel pressure test that you purge the gauge and rail. Make sure you have GOOD spark, check the voltage with a gap tester if you have one. re-check the compression without adding any more oil. Ignore Andrewwynn's fuel pressure regulator crap.

From listening to the video I would say your valve timing is way off.

Compression test should be 4 strokes and the first 2 really tell the story.

It sounds to me in the video like it is not getting fuel. Either that or the compression is very low, lower than the values you posted earlier. Or way mistimed engine. It's hard to say for sure but doesn't sound like a very happy M54.

Beer break
 

I agree with the beer break or asking the Captain to come by for a visit...

I installed an analog fuel gauge inline under the hood and have a pressure tester that connects to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. My fuel pressure is 51 PSI on both gauges when cranking, 40 PSI in the line before the fuel rail when not cranking, 45 PSI on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail when not cranking, and 30 PSI in the line the next morning the couple of times I looked. It takes several days for the fuel pressure to go to near 0 by itself.

Since these are NGK 4-strap spark plugs for BMW, they're supposed to be pre-gapped. I haven't measured them, but I have feeler gauges, so that's not hard to do. What should the gap be? I can easily measure the voltage going into the coil, but isn't the voltage at the plug really high? My O-scope only goes to 475 volts, but a regular multimeter goes to 1,000, I think; I will have to look. I've never tried to measure the voltage at the end of a spark plug before. I have been using a recessed inline spark plug tester, basically, a light that goes in line with the spark plug. I've also taken a video of the spark plug out of the engine and grounded while cranking to ensure it lit since I can't see that from inside the car. (The wife is ok with me working on it but wants nothing to do with it, and the kids all have their own places now. Have a Son-in-law who is a Toyota mechanic but hates German cars...)

I can certainly check compression again. I normally do 10 seconds with the check, throttle open, fuel off, etc. When you say 4 strokes, do you mean listening for 4 repeats of the sound? It's cranking at 140 RPM, so 4 strokes or 8 RPM a little more than 1/20th of a second, kinda hard to hit--or am I overthinking this, i.e. need some Captain, and you mean something completely different? ;)

On the valve timing, I can check the timing mark on the crank and timing cover when cylinder 1 is at TDC. It was correct before I installed the engine; something could have happened during installation, which took 4 tries to get right. Timing would certainly explain a few things, including why I got fire out the intake with starter fluid. On the flip side, it can't be that far off or it would be kissing the piston heads and making all kinds of terrible noise, bending valves, etc.

Once I understand your compression check test, I'll do that and check the timing mark, then report back. :thumbup:

Smells like teen spirit... I mean gas.
 

Neither of us is happy...

The spark plugs smell strongly of fuel, and the wideband O2 says 7.89 AFR, so I think it's getting fuel. The thing is, the engine sounds mostly the same whether I have the fuel turned on or off. The only difference is the smell of the exhaust. That's confusing.

The timing was correct before I put the engine back in the car. I followed the re-timing procedure, and it was spot on. I'm going to double-check that by manually moving cylinder 1 to TDC and checking the timing mark on the timing case.

I'm going to recheck the compression. When I do it, I typically do a 10 count when cranking before taking the reading. I may try a lower number. I have a nagging feeling it is compression since that will take the most work to resolve.

This time with image links
 

I used the image tags from the editor, sorry about the pics now showing up; at least the video link worked. The pics were just from the Foxwell, showing that there isn't anything reporting I feel would stop the engine from starting. If I'm wrong, please let me know. Here are the direct links:

https://imgur.com/gkVwq11
https://imgur.com/MbYEVgI
https://imgur.com/9H3qUkM
https://imgur.com/yemnInf
https://imgur.com/a4KJ43l
https://imgur.com/3JhFfSP

Tricky crank no-start problem
 

I use Tapatalk for positing photos. No comparison to other ways

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The needle on the compression tester should jump and hold at each compression stroke so do that for 4 strokes, not more, not less. You need someone on the key or a remote starter button. Doing these kind of tests for the first time when you are having a problem like this is a problem in itself. I checked my spark gap tester from when I last checked some M54 coils to compare them and it was pretty close to 30,000 volts.
You can pretty much hear puffing back from the intake valves on the video so you better look into that again.

When you said spark gap earlier I was thinking gapping the plug like I used to do on small block Chevies. I think you mean measuring the spark length with something like https://a.co/d/2LiOaHi. I don't have one so I will in the morning, thank you Prime.

Even with my electronics background I I wasn't Anker to trigger the starter remotely without the wires and momentary switch getting really hot-which they should not have. I use an IP camera system with an old phone to watch under the hood while I'm in the seat. I see the needle bump, so I can count 4 of them. Wish I'd done that last year so I had a baseline with that method.

The intake is indeed puffing. It was worse with my N55 intake. That built pressure in the intake, the intake temp went over 150F, then would blow out my catch can relief valve. What you saw/heard was there stock intake.

Thank you everyone for your input. I'm accustomed to helping other people with anything/everything, not asking for help, and you've all been great.

All of those involve opening up the head, so another question: which do you think is easier, removing the head while still in the car, or yanking the engine?

I'm leaning towards just pulling the engine but I don't relish dealing with the power steering, transmission cooler, etc. Fortunately I didn't reconnect the compressor, not until everything else works. I had to reroute the low and high pressure refrigerant lines, ended up making my own, plus I might mount the compressor somewhere else, like near the power steering fluid reservoir. I like to take the torque converter off/on while the engine is hanging in the bay, before I put it on the motor mounts, so I'm not worried about that.

What would you do?

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The noise is coming from the valves the problem isn't the intake itself. The valve timing is probably way off. Is there a chance that the intake and exhaust cams are mixed up ?? Do you not have access to running engine to practice doing a compression test ??

I think it's compression
 

I took the belt off, rotated the engine until Cyl 1 was top dead center, checked the timing mark, and it was spot on—then I realized that it had nothing to do with the cam timing, only the crank orientation. I took the belt off and everything. Sigh.

I pulled the plug for Cylinder 1 and ran 3 compression tests while watching the spark plug. On a whim, I tested with the new plug the first time then the original working plugs the 2nd and 3rd times. I recorded it all. Unfortunately, the dial for the compression gauge has a glare on it for #2-3, but doing a 4-crank, by ear anyway, compression test, I got 140, 145, and 148 PSI. For the first two, I didn't touch the throttle like I should, which is why I did the 3rd, but since it was so similar, I didn't redo it anymore.

Click the video link: Compression/spark plug tests 1-3 video

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<source src="https://i.imgur.com/SgryeRa.mp4" type="video/mp4">
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</video>

I threw the videos together and added captions, but I didn't take the time to align them and add a soundtrack. You can hear a little of the music I was listening to in the background. I don't want a bill from the RIAA. :p:

The spark looks very similar across plugs and tests. The light in the tester is whitish at first, then reddish. That indicates to me that my coils aren't producing enough voltage. I have a spark gap tester arriving tomorrow; I'll see what it says. Since these coils were working correctly, even if they are weak, I don't think that's the reason it won't start at all or even turn over.

I'm leaning toward compression because I did a leak-down test before reinstalling the engine. It was abysmal. If I put air pressure in the spark plug hole with both valves closed and the cylinder at the top dead center position, then sprayed carb cleaner on TOP of the valves, the carb cleaner bubbled until it was gone after a short while. It did this in EVERY cylinder. Now, I'd never lapped valves before, much less taken apart an overhead cam head, and VANOS tore everything down and put it back together. Lapping valves doesn't seem hard, but clearly, I must have done something wrong because the best the leak-down ever got was 20%, and most cylinders retained 0%. Listening to the engine during the leak-down test, the air was clearly coming out of the valves, usually on the exhaust side, but some on the intake side--and some on both. I could hear no air sounds from the crankcase or oil dipstick. :yikes:

Mein BMW läuft wie Scheiße
 

I could do compression tests on my Hondas. I've not spent much time under the hood of those; they just run. I did several compression checks on this engine when it was running before removing it from the car to get a baseline. The instructions said to disconnect the fuse for the fuel pump, attach the gauge in the cylinder spark plug fitting, crank for 6-10 seconds with the throttle fully open, and then record the reading. That is pretty straightforward. I will get an extension for the hose going to the compression gauge to see it easier from within the car. It doesn't have standard fittings.

While anything is possible, it is unlikely I got the intake/exhaust backward. I've spent a bunch of time in Germany, enough to be barely conversational in German, and you also see Ausfart and Einfart at every interchange on the Autobahn. I wouldn't have thought the A stamped on the cam meant it went first, not to mention the ends of the cams facing front are different on the intake and exhaust sides--I didn't think you could mess them up. When I pull the head off, I'll double-check this. I know I originally put my mains caps on backwards before catching that...

Uneven cranking is a sign of uneven compression. An oscilloscope wave form on a battery cable would show it.

140-150 is fine especially if the cylinders are wet with fuel (is fuel good??) it would be nice to do all cylinders the same way to be sure but I guess we can assume they are fairly even from the 10 second compression test. Plugged exhaust (is that possible?) will cause the puffing sound and the no-start but then there should be some other things going on as the pressure builds. I would still say there is a problem with the valve timing though, maybe get the timing instructions from a different source and re-check that. Spark looks good but for sure better to verify that with the gap tester.

That being said, I doubt the lapped valves are not going to last so they will need to be redone at some point anyway.

Thanks for the feedback and ideas, 80stech. I learned how to work on cars starting in the early 80s, first on a 52 Ferguson tractor, then my 70 Chevelle. My father said I couldn’t drive it until I knew how to rebuild it and he taught me how. 3 years and 15”x12” Kelley tires later, I fubared my transmission, and he said “you break it, you fix it.” With no lift or even a floor jack, I used wheel ramps, pine logs and 2x10 boards as levers. I rebuilt a Turbo 350 I had bought cheap and broken, put in a shift kit, bands and valves and put it in the car. Dad had to correct the transmission cooler lines though… Ah, memories.

I drained all the fuel from both sides of the tank at the fuel senders last weekend and put 3 gallons of fresh pump 93 octane gasoline in.

Cylinder 1 is the best. There was about a 25 PSI drop yesterday with a 4 crank (4 flashes of the spark plug light) test versus the 10 second test. I only did 1 cylinder last night. If that drop persists, I’ll have the following, cyl 1-6:
- 145 PSI
- 120
- 105
- 125
- 100
- 110
Note that only cylinder 1 is an actual measurement. The others are based on the previous measurement with a fixed offset. I’ll remeasure all again tonight if it’s not still raining. Severe thunderstorms right now.

There is a turbo on a new cast exhaust manifold, and I built a new 2.5” down pipe to a Y-pipe, 2 new cats under the frame, to the old X muffler to the final individual end mufflers. I pre-oiled the Turbo plus it has a high pressure oil feed tapped off the Vanos oil feed at the sending unit. The exducer spins freely, don’t know about the inducer. The new cats aren’t clogged, and I pushed compressed air through the X and final mufflers as part of cleaning and ensuring they were good to go. I didn’t measure output, just that air flowed and that I could feel air coming out each pipe. Air compressor puts out 5.3 SCFM/11.9 CFM at 40 PSI. I don’t know what it’s rated for at 1 bar.

I’m really curious why it seems as if I’m pressurizing my intake with the throttle body connected to the MAF then open air. With my N55 intake, it builds pressure until it forces it out of the vent on my catch can.

The engine has not ever started with the turbo on it, or after my rebuild. I’m desperate enough to pull the turbo off, or alternatively I can put a hater pipe out the back of the turbo and force the waste gate open to validate exhaust issues.

The original exhaust valves looked burnt, and had what would appeared to be Viking Runes around the edge. Kinda cool actually. The intake valves looked virtually new after being soaked in Chem Dip and buffed with a bronze brush, then wool with polishing compound, then plain wool to remove any leftover compound. I bought new, moderately high end (not the most expensive) exhaust valves from Bimmerworld and reused the intake valves I’d cleaned and polished. I tested the spring compression, they were all good, so I used the original seats, guides, springs, keepers, etc. They all took a Chem-Dip bath overnight too. I put Ultraslick in the guides when inserting the valves and ensured they went up/down and spun freely, and that there was no lapping compound left. Before I put oil in the engine I checked the pan and it had a bunch of Ultraslick there. I found that somewhat amusing.

In a way I’m surprised it makes much compression at all since every valve leaks. I’ve never had to deal with leaky valves before. Is this typical? I still don’t know if the leaky valves are the valves themselves or the valve sleeves. If it’s the sleeves, I’ll get a used head rather than pay for resleeving right now. I won’t port the head this time until I know the engine runs first. I highly doubt the porting affects the starting.

I got the gap testing tool today, so I’ll do that once things dry out. I’m pretty crazy but even I don’t want to play with 30k volts in the water—it’ll jump too easily.

I found a set of Dragon Fire and Mishimoto coil-on-plugs. If the gap test is bad enough I’ll order one of those. I want a longer spark if possible to handle the forced induction.

On timing and stuff, I used Wossner’s guide for rings, the Project Crankshaft guide on E46fanatics, the cam removal/installation/timing guide from German Auto Solutions. The GAS guide was really good, with plenty of pictures. They make a very nice tool for working with the cams. I can look in INPA for their timing procedure. I saw it once before but thought the GAS guides were more complete and made more sense. I think Pelican has a guide too.


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On a per month basis, you have a good point.

I know the compression is uneven, but I’ll put my o-scope on it for fun to see what the waveform looks like. I paid for the thing, have to play with it every now and again or it gets lonely.

I pulled my notes and when looking for the GAS cam removal/installation/timing instructions, I found where I printed out the ISTA instructions for timing and I have a check mark by each step, so I performed those timing steps, even pretensioning the timing chain adjuster to 0,7 Nm. Only my 1/4” torque wrench went that low.

I guess I used a double negative but what I meant to say is that the lapped valves won't last. If you get the valves done at a good shop they will probably cut the seats instead of grinding which leaves a sharper edge to seal better and a less likely to be affected by carbon build up but also often leaves a slight burr or ridge where the cutter stops causing even more of a valve leak than what you are talking about, enough to see light through but not enough that the engine won't start. If the rest of the cylinders are as low as you are predicting that is a problem. I think the only way you can get a pressure build up in the intake is if there are some serious valve timing issues or the exhaust is plugged. Even with leaking valves there would still be a full stroke of valve open suction for every stroke with bit of pressure leaked by. I don't know what you have for a cccv or how you have the intake is connected to the crankcase but it might help to check/disconnect that for further clues.

[mention]80stech [/mention] Thanks for the clarification. On the lapping, that’s interesting and worth bearing in mind. I did as advised by my dad and a Toyota mechanic in the family, I’d only done SBC valves on iron heads before. Lapping was supposed to fix whatever grooving was there. I’m doing the valves myself as part of the adventure. When I told my dad about the leaking, he told me to put them on the engine anyway and they’d probably fix themselves. I should have tested the valves before doing anything to them.

I’m 54 and yes, I still go to my dad for advice with mechanical stuff, any type of mechanical stuff. He’s forgotten more than I’ll ever know, and he doesn’t seem to forget anything. My brother was a F16 crew chief and airplane mechanic. Me? I was great at cross threading things. Maybe that’s why I did electrical engineering and computer science.

Given the cost of good valves, and money I already spent, I might just buy another head off ebay, put a second head gasket on and try that. They were around $330 last I looked. If I like the new-to-me head, assuming everything is working, I’ll get it decked and port both sides again.

This intake is a stock M54 attached via 7mm bolts versus the studs that are stock to a M54 engine. I like bolts better, less likely to drop into the intake or anywhere else. Personal preference I guess since I shake and drop things too easily to deal with.

I did the spark gap test tonight. Since it’s just me I used a 4k camera and reviewed footage after each test. I’m not certain about the markings on the device, they didn’t line up with my calipers so I measured out manually 10mm, then 15 and 20mm from the tip of the electrode. I got consistent spark over 4 strokes at 10mm, 15mm and 20mm. One time it arced to the turbo, about 5 inches away, so I put a piece of wood in front of the turbo to prevent it from happening again.I think the coils are ok. I was really about to order some supposedly higher energy coils for forced induction too, but from what I recall, 15mm is recommended minimum spark gap length for forced induction, and this exceeds that spec.

I’d like to have a Trillium induction unit that would measure voltage too, but they’re a little pricey and wouldn’t be here for a few days anyway.

When reviewing the INPA guide for removing Vanos, there was a handy quick test for timing. If you turn the crank until the first lobes on both intake and exhaust and pointing inwards to the #1 spark plug recess, and you have the cam holders installed on the back of the cams, the holders on the intake side should be flat or less than 1mm high at highest level, and the exhaust side should be flat. If this is true and you have the intake/exhaust cam on the correct sides, BMW says timing is within spec. If it’s not raining for a while tomorrow, I’ll pull the valve covers off and check this.

I loosened and cracked open the downpipe from the turbo to see if that made any difference from the exhaust puffing sound. Not really. This doesn’t eliminate exhaust totally, but almost.

Your dad was kinda right, in fact that's what the machine shop will tell you when you can see light through the valves that have "cut" seats, the burr wears off pretty quick and then you still have a nice sharp edge on the seat, usually doesn't work that way for lapping it's usually only getting worse. I just noticed that you do some Arduino as well :) I had a pretty neat setup with one Arduino taking readings in the E-box linked to another on the dash with 2 OLED screens but don't use it much any more. I also made a pretty cool Arduino based fuel pressure gauge ;)

Are you sure that your spark tester isn't marked off in thousands of volts? mine measures roughly 20mm at 30,000 volts. A really big problem with these coils is actually the spark plug boot, if you squeeze the end and can see any cracks it's a problem.

It might have been thousands of volts. I measured the millimeters with calipers and marked it myself. I assume there is a constant relationship between length of the spark and voltage.

On Arduino, I have it reading 6 sensors, running a RESTful interface and web socket interface, and I have a React app running that loads off the web server on the WiFi router. WiFi router is a net gear with a custom rom. It can connect to any other WiFi like my phone or my house. I could put a SIM card in a USB dongle but why bother when my phone is in hotspot mode at all times. I mainly use the Arduino for data acquisition. The react app by default polls the Arduino 20x per second and updates the 14” touchscreen mounted to the dash vertically using the stereo mounts to the 75mm VESA mounts on the monitor. It also sets up DS2 from the ECU and streams that, storing it in a document database in the back of the car. It can display any data and graph from DS2, OBD2, or whatever comes across CANBus/RS485. It can send CAN messages too but I don’t do that much anymore. I found it amusing to see the steering wheel angle changing in real time, but it’s not useful in real life. It can also connect to the Arduino via web socket but the refresh rate is too high for the display with that, the browser gets overloaded. I also have an external USB GPS/Glosnass/whatever else. It has a daemon I talk to for coordinates, direction, speed, etc. it integrates into Linux too.

It is a KDE interface and can play music, videos, whatever else. Google maps in the browser works with the USB GPS module.

I like playing with stuff and exploring what I can do. I started programming in C in 1983, so coding the Arduino didn’t bother me at all.

Tricky crank no-start problem
 

Update: timing!

For those who posited timing as the issue, bravo! I don’t know if this is the smoking gun, but it makes sense, even why I had in the throttle body a couple weeks ago.

As some suspected, the intake timing is off. I followed the BMW guide from INPA to check if the timing and the exhaust was correct, but not intake. It’s weird because the paint marks on the cam from when I did it, and the person before me, still lined up, but it was clearly off.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...63e5ab63f2.jpg
This is a delta angle reading. The engine at the back of the head and the top of the spark plug ports is 32 degrees. The block on the exhaust cam is 0.1 degree off. The intake is off by 5.1 degrees.

The cam block holder is allowed to be up to 1.0mm high on the end. Mine is 7.46mm high.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...caab932966.jpg
I’m going to look at the timing instructions in INPA and perform that procedure.

The reason the timing is probably off is because when installing the engine, I used a 500 lb ratchet strap to angle the engine at 32 degrees to line it up with the transmission and everything. The ratchet strap broke and the engine flopped to the left against the side of the engine bay. I pulled the engine back out, inspected it and didn’t find any damage. I then used a 3,333 lb ratchet strap to angle the engine and stuck it in. I didn’t take the engine apart and that has bitten me. C'est la vie…

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...03c4281b1c.jpg
The gap on the intake cam block, on the right. I couldn’t get a pic showing the calipers, I didn’t have enough hands.

The Einfahrt and Ausfahrt sides were correct. It rained too much today to retime it, and tomorrow doesn’t look much better. Plus I need to go to my parents and pretend I’m a small appliance repairman.

[mention]80stech [/mention] [mention]andrewwynn [/mention] Either of you or anytime else seen where an M54 head won't hold timing? I do the BMW timing procedure in ISTA, put the head faceplate special tool on, torque the bolts to 5 then 20 Nm, rotate crank by hand 2X, then try to put blocks back on the end of the cams, and it's off again, intake by 2.3 degrees this time, exhaust by 0.3 degrees. Did this 3 times.

I left it in time and checked compression, and it's 145 on cylinder 1, with a 90% loss on the leak down test. Still crank no start, although some of the injectors leaked, so I'm fixing that now but it doesn't even try to start.

I'm seriously thinking about buying a used head with all the valves in it.

I've only done the m62. Are you having an issue with the vanos not clocked correctly m62 only has one per bank but it there was never sooid feedback that I had the vanos set to the "start" position. Not sure what else could repeatedly throw off timing.

With m62 two things I remember was 1: special tool to put in place of the chain tensioner while setting timing. (and turn the engine 720° while doing)

2: after chain tight, snug but not tight the cam bolts and do another 720° to remove any backlash between sprocket and cam.

The timing procedure is to get the chain on the right tooth of the gear, If it's a hair off that's OK. Check the valves at TDC (use a stick in the spark plug hole) exhaust and make sure the exhaust has just closed and intake is just opening turning engine over bay hand in proper direction.
If compression is 140 to 150 with 4 strokes on all cylinders then compression is not the problem.

How are you doing with this??

Any updates ??

Couple things: when checking the timing with a couple cranks, use the air pressure in the oil banjo connector to simulate oil pressure. If not, it thinks the lack of pressure is a signal and can adjust the intake angle. One I put the vamps controller back on and used 3 bar of air pressure, the timing held.

The root cause of all my problems seems to be my oil pump. I installed a Seems Legit pump and tensioner during the rebuild. The rings are never getting enough oil to seal, and no seal means no combustion.

I’m not saying anything bad about the Seems Legit oil pump-it seems to be a solid unit. It could be the O-ring on the pickup or other things. There is virtually no oil in the oil filter and no oil squirts if I crank it with the oil send sensor disconnected. With the car outside and no room in the garage, It’s been too hot outside to pull the engine again and tear it down in the garage even though I have AC in the garage.

Having oil pressure should be on the crank/no start guide.

I’ll update here for tribal knowledge sake once I get it to make oil pressure.

Good thing it didn't start if the oil pump isn't working. I doubt that is all of the problem though. You proved oil pressure to the vanos doesn't help with the no-start and the compression is what's needed to make the engine run, not oil on the rings. Oil pressure has no place in a no-start guide though I did run into that once but it was a combination of problems which led to the fuel pump not running because of low oil pressure at times (GM product though.)