Tricky crank no-start problem

[DonaldFoss]

I need some help. I'm in over my head now.

I have a 2003 E53 3.0i. It ran mostly fine last May--mostly fine in that it occasionally acted like it was stuck in 3rd gear, but that mostly went away after replacing the VANOS solenoids. With tuning and minor physical changes, it was doing 0-60 in 6.5 seconds. No idea on the quarter, haven't done that yet.

I got the bright idea of making a sleeper out of it and taking it to the track, which required doing a bunch of mods to the car, starting with the oil pump. Dumb, I know. It's been mostly fun. I work on it outside, on the ground.

Over the winter, I rebuilt the engine, ported the heads on both sides, replaced all the VANOS seals, valves, front/rear seals, bearings, and basically had the engine and head down to piles of parts that I cleaned thoroughly and put back together. Now everything is reassembled except the front suspension, and the vehicle won't start.

The 2ndard air is removed, and air from the turbo is disconnected and coming through the MAF via a 14" 3" tube to get to the OEM boot to the throttle body and IAC. I undid all my mods to make it as stock as possible, including EDU changes. PCV is connected via 5/8" hose to a catch can and vacuum.

Crank no-start basics:
- does it have air? Yes, the throttle body is working, and I tried with/without the MAF. IAC is connected, and IAC ports on the intake and head are clean without obstruction.
- does it have fuel?
--Yes, new Walbro 450lph fuel pump with 51 PSI fuel pressure on the fuel rail, the spark plugs smell like gas, and the Innovate Wideband O2 says 7.98 AFR (lowest reading possible is 7.39)
--built a noid-style light to flash when the #1 fuel injector was fired, which lights up (used an old trailer light and some alligator clips). I also record the DS2 output while I'm test cranking and see the injectors called on to open for 19ms average (1.3% duty cycle)
--using stock fuel injectors, with my 70lb ones on the shelf.
- does it have spark?
--Yes, tested 2 spark plugs with a probe and grounded them where I could see the spark. I may order 6 inline testers, but they're not for recessed plugs, so I may have to fiddle with them.
--New NGK spark plugs
- crank position sensor - replaced and verified with an o-scope. The ECU threw codes when testing with the CPS unplugged and is clear with it plugged in. It's showing the expected square wave on the o-scope.
- cam position sensors - not replaced, but not reporting codes and this worked before I removed the engine. Intake and exhaust cam sensors tested with o-scope and are reporting as expected, at least to my mark 1 eyeballs
- crazy settings in the ECU? I flashed the ECU back to virgin, removed the 2ndary air and got the same results
- did starter fluid help? With the fuel off and only using starter fluid, a cylinder lit off a couple times, then the intake backfired and the intake boot caught fire. That wasn't fun. It took me half a day of cleaning the intake and everything around it to convince myself there wasn't any more white powder in anything important. I have not tried starter fluid with the fuel valve on.
- timing? I timed the head 3 times when reassembling it (because I'm that bad). While reinstalling the engine a ratchet strap broke that was setting the engine tilt angle and it bumped the side of the engine bay but did not dent the bay or the engine. Something could be off there, but the valves don't touch the pistons.
- EWS?
--The car dings when I insert the key, send fuel, spark, etc. My code reader does have messages about key 1 and 5, but key 1 remote features don't work, and I have a key blank where the remote features work but the key isn't cut. I used both of these before, and they still work the same way.
--I took a backup ECU with an identical flash as my original OEM and did an EWS delete. With that ECU, the fuel pump doesn't turn on, so ... I put that back on the bench and haven't tried it since.
- Ignition switch? I installed a new ignition switch, had no effect.
- Battery - this car it tough on batteries unless you drive it regularly anyway. I have a platinum AGM battery that outputs 12.4 volts. The ECU reports 11.93 volts before cranking, and 10.5 volts while cranking. To eliminate the battery, I connected a battery charger with start assistance and put it in that mode while testing, with the same results.
- crank speed? ECU reports 140 RPM, which should be sufficient. Am I correct? I couldn't find any data or specs on what that is supposed to be.
- ignition timing? Controlled by ECU tune, which is virgin now. ECU reports 1.3 degrees. VANOS says passive mode only, intake 126, exhaust -105.
- compression? Since I've been trying to start this for 3 weeks, I have wet cylinder walls and my compression is down. I put 4 squirts of Castrol 10w/30 into each spark plug hole yesterday before trying to start again. Before I put the oil in, compression was 125 - 170 PSI. Before I tore the engine down, it was 175-195 PSI.
- ECU codes? None except sometimes says it can't get CAN temperature and thinks the engine is at 50C.

- anything else? I know my heads are leaky in the valve seal and while I got decent compression, the leak down test was miserable. I intend to get the heads redone or buy another head and port that one. Even with a lot of lapping, I couldn't get a good seal on these. Best guess is porus valve sleeve. This shouldn't affect starting, just power output.

I hope I've covered all the questions that might be asked. I'm stumped and it's not a comfortable position. So, um, help?

[andrewwynn]

Long term no power where crank no start usually is the EWS. It's stupid it didn't just block the crank.

You said you did EWS delete but undid? What do you see on scan of EWS module?

The only sensor I know that prevents a start is the cpk crank position sensor.

You mentioned no codes on cps. Of the dozen or so I've replaced only ones ever had a cps related code. They work -ish and cause an inherited unrelated code. Won't affect start but wanted to throw that out there in case you get it started and it likes to stall with no cps code.

[DonaldFoss]

Got a random code on it and since it can cause other issues, like the 3rd gear thing I thought I solved with Vanos solenoid, I just replaced it. Once I actually plugged it in, the ECU code went away.

What do you mean by no power with EWS? Do you mean, not starting weirdly due to EWS? I only did the EWS delete on my backup ECU, which turned out to not be turning on the fuel pump. My primary, factory ECU with EWS still enabled does turn on the fuel pump correctly. I can try disabling EWS on my primary EDU also.

[X5chemist]

EWS delete must be DME deleted too. The module bypass must be in place or the starter wouldn't crank. I know, I did it to mine while chasing down a parasitic draw. The good thing, it was reversible.
What's the difference in compression between cylinders? More than 10% on the next cylinder is not good.

[andrewwynn]

No power usually from long shop time battery disconnected.

At least once a year maybe twice somebody has your symptom after a battery drain or disconnected.

They will see EWS errors though why I asked if you saw any.


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[DonaldFoss]

I looked up the EWS codes...had to pull out the code reader, they do not show up as DTC code.

Code | Name | Explanation
12 | N/A | Key number 1 not valid because of wrong changing code
13 | N/A | Toleration of changing code increased with Key #1
0F | N/A | Power On Reset
50 | N/A | Key number 5 not valid because of wrong identification

I don't know which key is #1, but I thought that if the car "dinged," it recognized the key. I think key #5 is the blank key fob I have where the remote features work, but the key has never been cut.

I did try the EWS sync via the MS43 tool, but it said it failed.

I'll grab my primary ECU, bring it up in boot mode, disable EWS, and try again. I soldered on a resistor and a button switch to both of my ECUs to make entering boot mode easier...

[andrewwynn]

Nah on ding. It's moronic. If EWS not happy you should not get crank! It's asinine. I think you're on a path to success.

I'm confused though you said 3.0 e53 and also turbo.

What chassis and engine are you working here?


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[BimmerBreaker]

Those EWS codes you have will prevent starting and it sounds like the EWS delete you attempted on the other DME didn't work. If your car has the round port in the engine bay, you need to use the round port adapter or jump two pins and reinstall cap to be able to communicate to non-DME modules and this includes performing the EWS sync process. If yours does not have the round port under hood then you may have a faulty EWS module itself. Either way a proper EWS delete tune should solve it, but there's no reason not to simply get EWS to work since this car was originally ms43.

[andrewwynn]

Round obd port ended in mid 2000 build date. I call the 2001 made before July a 2000.5. My wife had one I did the short out the pins in the cap trick. There's actually two sets of pins to short. I posted on xo but I don't think in a clean thread so unsure if I could find

[DonaldFoss]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Nah on ding. It's moronic. If EWS not happy you should not get crank! It's asinine. I think you're on a path to success.

I'm confused though you said 3.0 e53 and also turbo.

What chassis and engine are you working here?

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It's an E53 chassis with M54B30. I added the turbo on the front above three exhaust manifold. The plumbing was easier there. I'm a pathetic welder, especially with flux core MiG.