Yes I will. Absolutely. Figured wouldn't hurt to change the Vanos anyway. Unread people have issues after 50-100k, meanwhile mine is over 234k. I'm also thinking of flushing the transmission fluid, never did that, and also maybe one of my belt pulley is shot.and I should change. Anyway, will focus on the scans and sensor diagnostic. You are right!!! Have a good night and thanks again.

Quick question about smoke test. I did try to smoke test myself last week. I entered the smoke at the intake tube past the MAF, pressure built up and popped the rubber glove off and all my smoke poured out. This was after I put in the new URO idle control valve. So my question is, should the smoke have flowed through into the engine. I realize the throttle plate is closed, but should it go through the small vac lines in the rubber boot? Or the idle control valve?

Got my scan tools and will have time to mess around some tomorrow. Bitterly cold here.

The DME leaves the throttle open a bit after shut down but to smoke test the crankcase I would put smoke into the valve cover oil filler hole. I've never done a smoke test though so maybe others can chime in on that.

Interesting. I recall on the past testing via the intake tube. This time seemed different with the buildup of pressure. Maybe something going on with my throttle plate. It's on my list to take off and clean. Ingot a new gasket for it too. Thanks.

I usually inject smoke at a vacuum line like brake booster. I was able to get smoke past the throttle.

Crankcase I'll inject at the oil dipstick tube on cars that have one.

Mind the psi. Should only need 1-2 psi. Some smoke machines will pump pressure high enough to damage there likes of ccv.


–awr–

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pump smoke through the intake hose or dipstick tube until smoke comes through the oil fill cap. Then close cap and looks for leaks...

Thanks. Smoked through the dipstick and nothing coming out anywhere.

Starting playing around with my BMW specific scanner. Short term fuel trims seemed okay. Nothing above 10 percent when driving and trying to look at it. Long term was around -8%. Oxygen sensor voltage reading in live data looked good.

I read codes for the DME and saw some interesting things.

IE

DME: Activation, ignition, cylinder 3

F3

DME: Misfire, cylinder 6

EE

DME: Misfire, cylinder 1

I also do see some fuel trim limits exceeded.

I cleared the codes now and also swapped the coil pack 3 with coil pack 1, then I drove the car 5 miles. No codes returned and the car drives fine.

So - do I just need to keep driving the car around?

I chased random cylinder misfire for a while before i figured out that i just needed to run injector cleaner.

Have you done that? A dirty injector or two could give you your symptoms but i thought you already did.

It is possible you have a bad injector also.


–awr–

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So - keep driving until more codes show up???

Yes, I have some injector cleaner in there now and have used in the past.

I've never taken off the fuel rail or the intake manifold, so when the weather warms up, if all else continues to fail me, I will certain do that.

High-Pressure BMW Piezo Injector Service
https://www.redlineinjectors.com/ser...-flow-testing/


This is a personal friend of mine. He commented to me that when our injectors fail, they usually cause a rich condition bc they leak, but on occasion could go lean.

Does that personal friend of yours know anything about the M54 Siemens injectors having ceramic seats that can be damaged by ultrasonic cleaning ?