I hope so, I just bought tails off an '02, and am hoping this will solve the prob I had (same thing, melted holders, and burning on the board, see pics in the WTB section here.) Hopefully this will fix the problem, I'll post and let know how it seems to work once I get them, and put them in.

They have NOT fixed the issue on the newer models. My '04 had the same issue where it keeps throwing a rear light out error (the bulb is still good, but doesn't light up). The soldering tips DO work. I added some solder to the bulb holder contacts and after a year, it still works...no more light out errors.

Yup, same crappy design on the '04. I have replaced both rear lights in last year.

dkl, exactly where did u apply the solder and how much??

It's mostly a trial and error thing for the amount of solder to apply. The problem with the entire design is that the bulb holder isn't getting good enough contact with the printed circuit board on the light house assembly. Just add a bit of solder to the conductive part (you know...the tip portion that usually get burned) of the bulb holder that is making actual contact with the light assembly circuit board. Normally, when the bulb holder conductors are worn, it sit somewhat loose on the housing. Keep adding a tiny bit of solder to the contacts (conductor) of the holder until it sit in the housing snug.

umnitza is supposed to be coming out with an LED replacement soon for the E53 - as my right brake/tail light continues to give me "check ...light", it can't come too soon

Same light is out again....... Back to the dealer.

Keep us posted....
My left tailamp....first it was the brake and now it's the lamp itself...out for like 6 months now. It's not a easy bulb swap for me since I have a custom stereo install and it's buttoned up back there.

Been waiting on Leds but if no decent leds are out by spring....I'll just suck it up and bring it to the dealer.

I'll buzz by tomorrow and see if there's a quick fix but i doubt that will happen.

Like I said, there's pretty much nothing they can do to the current design to fix the problem (permanantly) other than try to get as best as they can to provide a SOLID connection between the bulb holder and the light fixture. The semi-loose connection between the holder and the fixture is what's causing the sparks to burn either the holder or the fixture circuit board or both. The reason why adding some extra solders to the bulb holder worked for all of us who had tried this kluge is because the extra solder is actually taking up the "slack", for the lack of a better word, which forces a better connection between the contacts of the holder and the fixture. The snug contacts between the bulb holder and the light fixture is key.

I would put money on that your dealer will probably going to replace your entire light fixture this one last time just to tie you over until your warranty expires since there is no "proper" fix for this design flaw.