Perfect. Thanks!

:D No problem!

Best option would be to walk or take transit. I am guessing that isn't your first choice.

Failing that, I wouldn't bother to take a longer route. There won't be a significant difference. To have any impact, you need to get the oil to full operating temperature, and keep it there long enough to boil off the moisture that has collected. If you go for a longer drive once a week, that would help.

If you do a lot of short trips, just plan on maintaining the CCV. If it hasn't been serviced, then have it cleaned out. Check it again the following season, and if there is condensate buildup then you know you need to do it every year. If there isn't, move to a 24 month service schedule. Whether or not you do short trips, if there is no condensate in the CCV then there is nothing to freeze.

I'd suggest starting with a shorter CCV inspection interval initially. Check it now, check it again in a couple of weeks. If it's clean after a couple weeks, leave it until the start of the next winter.

If you have the tools and the know-how, you can do it yourself in under 10 minutes. The hardest part is removing the two furthest Torx screws on the engine cover!

I've come back to this thread after a couple of deep freeze cycles here in Calgary. I have no block heater of any kind installed. The X is garaged at night, but sits outside all day. At temps above 0 F (-18 C), I experience nothing different than starting on a warm day. It is when it drops below 0 F that it struggles. Well, it always fires right up, but I hear a quick ZING! sound that makes me cringe. In my mind, that sound is metal on metal due to the thick, cold oil being delayed in initial delivery to the top of the engine. Has anyone else heard the ZING?

I found a site that sells the stick on pads and am thinking of adding one for use only on the coldest days. Does anyone have a recommendation on a product from this company?
Engine oil pan heaters, filter heaters & battery warmers. Designed for cars, diesel engines, more effective than block heaters, magnetic heaters. Suitable for Volkswagen vw beetle, Audi, Land Rover, Ford, Chrysler, GM,

I don't know what wattage is best of the oil capacity of the 4.8.

Thanks for any suggestions. Stay warm!

i put on a oil pan heater and a battery blanket and havent had a problem here in grande prairie.well worth it...

Link to product you installed?

sorry i got it from a local company here.but check wolverine heaters or google oil pan heaters..

Very old thread, by my X definitely "zings" when it's below zero out. It's -10*F at the moment and it's making me cringe every time I start it. I asked at Shucks/O'Reilly when I was there buying oil pan heaters for another car, and they did have a block heater that stated it would work for the 2001 3.0. I was told that the stick-on oil pan heaters are superfluous with full synthetic oil.

These oils have a pour point colder than -40 (C or F) so in that sense the heaters are not necessary, but for those that want to be kinder to the machinery, they aren't a bad idea. With the crankcase ventilation valve problems, the idea is that if the engine is already somewhat warm, it will warm up quicker once started, and that gives more time to boil off the condensation if you are doing short trips.

I like the oil pan heaters compared to coolant heaters, as they are entirely external, with no chance of leaks.