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Mark, the big question...why wasn't your engine overheating?
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Holy thread jacking batman. Good to see my post resurrected multiple times. My 2 cents - hopefully your buddy lubed the outside of the pipes and/or o-rings with coolant so the o-rings weren't pinched or rolled off the grooves. Obviously the seal is not tight for some reason. Unfortunately it sounds like you'll have to remove the WP again. Get a new set of o-rings. I may have an extra set laying around if you want them.
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Same thing happened to me. I was losing coolant which was coming out of the reservior tank which was cracked.
According to the tech who's my cousin, this happens a lot in these models. |
After having my cracked radiator replaced, the car ran fine for a little over a month. Then, one morning my wife noticed the "check coolant level" warning again. We added additional coolant and she drove it to work. When she was about to drive home, a puddle of coolant was underneath the car (driver side)
I added some coolant this morning and started the car (cold start) and waited till the engine warms up, but no leak. Apparently, as I was about to turn the car off, the coolant leak was coming from the resovoir tank (top lid) It looks its leaking out from the pressurize cap. Update: I checked again this evening and there's still no leak underneath. It appears that it will only leak out of the reservoir tank, when the engine is warm and running. Any ideas what may be causing this? |
coolant leak
If you do remove the plate for inspection, do not drive without it ,some of the bolts secure the sway bar...
Your best bet is to pressure test the coolant system, this will show you where the leak is...And if you can`t see where it is coming from...This is where it gets complicated. Under the intake manifold there are coolant tube(s) that connect to the rear coolant pipe (connected to the rear of the heads) this tube(s) have O-rings that get stiff and will leak under pressure. The bad news is it very difficult to see in this area w/o taking parts out. Good luck |
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