there is also a "cold climate version". from northeast. is this necessary?

sfcl, also RealOEM.com BMW E53 X5 3.0i Hot-film air mass meter

see if this is what you were referring to for intake boot and various vacuum lines. pls, indicate with numbers as you did before. cheers!

Yes you can absolutely experience the very same symptoms as soon as well...yes the very next winter..

People the oil seperator is an ongoing thing..Meaning just because you get the parts replaced (including the VCG) it doesn't mean anything.. Its not like other parts on the car like a water pump or something. This part will go through continous abuse if you do not clean the hoses and check the cap regularly especially if it sits overnight in cold weather and sub freezing temps. This part is always prone to fail if neglected in such terms, in conjunction with short trips..

The best thing you can do is limit your short trips. The condensate builds up and freezes up because the car has not been driven long enough (needs to be longer then 30 minutes) to burn off that condensate. As a result it freezes, that milky crap under the oil cap is a sign of this happening. Of course, I've seen super milky, paste, and barely any milky crap at all..It can vary.

The newer insulated oil seperator parts are helpful, but not a total solution. The insulated hoses and wraps keeps the condensate warmer longer, but does not prevent it from freezing up also..Especially if left sitting overnite in sub freezing temps like I said..

Do a search on this topic folks..We cover every possible scenario with the Oil seperator on this site. There must be at least a 100 seperate threads on it. GL.

I'm sure JCL will chime in soon with greater detail then i can provide..

On 4.4i - does one need to change the valve cover gaskets as well if replacing the oil seperator lines? I see this in my near future.

I am in the process of doing this right now. I have everything off but the OS stuck on one vent line back up to intake maqnifold.

I called a good reputable BMW dealer today (actualy called three) but the one that was recommended said that the new "fix" which folks here have talked about for years is an insulated OS valve plus new complete dipstick and the three hoses (1 going from valve cover to Oil seperator which connects to OS on bottom side, one hose going from top of OS to Intake manifold and another tueb, and the htird goes to the bottom of the dipstick.

I am taking pictures and will in the next week up load the process for my 2003 X5 3.0I.

By the way if you haven't done it and you live in the northern part of the country where it gets down or below 20f, I would do it, no questions asked. This is a poor design. Mine just failed and I was lucky and the motor died with too much oil on the plugs / in the cylinder. I had couple of ounces in each (guess), but if I had known how serious this problem can be (total the engine if it fails one way) I would have done it.

Same problem on all engines? What if you let your engine warm up? Should I be considered if a take some weekend trips to Tahoe and I'm not garaging? Most of the time i'm in SF, and even it Tahoe temps usually don't get too much below 30F.

I guess If I were to change it out I would use the insulated one if it's supposedly better.

sfcl, also RealOEM.com BMW E53 X5 3.0i Hot-film air mass meter

see if this is what you were referring to for intake boot and various vacuum lines. pls, indicate with numbers as you did before. cheers!

i was just told by a professional that the oil separator for e53(os and its hoses) is same as e46. pls, advise.

Intake boot is #8 on this picture. Vaccum lines, there are several... One coming from the part #10 on the picture but there is also another coming close to it, on the same elbow, not shown on the picture. The best way is probably to get 2 or 3 meters of brand new vaccum lines (I guess this is about 3.2mm internal diameter, sorry I don't know in inches!) and replace all what you find!