heh - it's pretty bad in the rain even with the stock 275/315 staggered set-up at least with yoko advan tires. Although I pretty much run snows all winter anyway so I'm always ready for a last minute ski trip when the schedule clears and the snow dumps.

thanks
 

Good

Man I'm *almost* wishing I had snow's for this week. Va Beach hasn't gotten blasted with a snowstorm this heavy in a decade!

Glad it helped. :)

So I'm updating this because I wanted to talk about what happened with the dyno. I wanted to know if there was more area under the curve with the new impeller blade, and I really wanted to know what the deal was with fueling.

So, pre-cat bung holes/plugs were fitted for WBO2 sensors to monitor during the pull on the Dynojet 424xLC^2

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/93ccd60f.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...5/519d442a.jpg

All good right? Well, no, unfortunately. I was misunderstood. I thought that the 424xLC^2 could load up the rollers independently, (due to the F/R torque split) but they can't. Couldn't get a same speed lock at very low speed so we abandoned the dyno before one pull was made. Oh well.

We need this for the dyno:

Dynamometer Model 424Linx

My buddy (the shop owner) isn't just going to drop a fair amount of coin instantly because I want him too, (I asked though, haha) but he may get it in the future.

That leaves me with road testing. So I need to purchase a PLX DM-100 OBD II display unit and two PLX wideband O2 units

The goal is to get a read on the fueling, see if additional fueling is needed before any other change, see how close I am to running out of pump or injector, and then if I have fuel on the table to play with, to see if those cat converters could be made to "flow better". I think there are V.E. gains to be had there.

FWIW, apparently the pump is an E39 M5 unit, and the injectors are a Delphi product, still researching on what size they are exactly.

:thumbup:Dude, intense and exceptionally good post. Thanks.

I saw on your list that you replaced a few items on the rear hatch. What kind of symptoms were you having and did this fix it? I have a slight knock from the tailgate at low speed starts and stops.

Hi tkasser,

For the lower tailgate, I aligned the outer catches on the body further towards the front. Then, for the upper liftgate replaced the rubber bumpstops on the body with newer spring loaded type, and replaced the upper liftgate pistons.

#6 and #35 in this diagram

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.6is TRUNK LID/REAR WINDOW

Every once in a while coming into the driveway at angle, I still hear a slight noise from flex, but that might be because I got sensitized to the noise. That's the only time I ever hear it though. I'm satisfied with the changes made.

No worries! If it weren't for the OG's here to pave the way, I wouldn't have had the resources to guide me along. I have to thank those guys for that. So hopefully this helps to pay it forward, good karma and all that. :)

J.B.

I am contemplating doing the chain guides but some threads seem to say it is better to do the upper and lower oil pans to avoid oil leakage. This is significantly more involved. You seem to have done only the guides and the vanos.

Any oil leaks on yours?

Fixing that water temp gauge.
 

Going to be a long night... COFFEE TIME



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/65421b5f.jpg


More to follow as PLX DM-100 ODB II install goes along.

Before we begin, I would like to thank Erol, a fellow BMW owner from Switzerland. His very professional work fitting the PLX DM-100 OBD II into the M5 was my vision for this install. I must also give him credit for scanning the OEM water temperature gauge, resizing it, and creating 100 images of the gauge with the needle moving throughout the temperature range. Erol and PLX devices were generous enough to share the gauge file with me, I appreciate the generosity.

Setup

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/2cbe66ec.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...I/088b7891.jpg

A smoke and another cup of joe and then the IKE gets a transplant.

edit: spent more time than I thought I would researching warning settings that should work for me. I'll get busy with the nuts and bolts of the install after some shuteye. IKE can sleep well for tonight.

I don't think that I've ever dremeled that close to a pcb before.

IKE is looking *rough* right now. But I'm ok with how things are progressing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...ransplant7.jpg

Nothing that a can of compressed air can't fix. Display seems centered up when I hold the frame over the cluster, so that's a big hurdle passed. Now I need to remove the PLX bezel without sending the guts flying about.

Taking a break and having a drink to uh... steady the hands ;)