hub puller
 

I am in process of replacing a split CV boot (outter). I tried to use an air hammer to free up the axle from the hub, but no dice. I think a hub puller would be a lot more effective. I would rather not remove the axles from the transaxle. So my plan is to swing the hub/knuckle assembly out away from the axle once it is off the axle splines, and then do the boot swap with the axle still installed into the transaxle.

Any suggestions on which hub puller will work on the X5?

The BMW specific hub puller would be the only one I would use if I were going to use a hub puller since it goes into the bolt holes in the hub. Using a claw puller will dislodge the dustcap which will require more work to remedy. I did not use an air hammer but I did use one hell of a sledge with one hell of a punch. 3-4 good solid blows got it moving expeditiously. This is really the best alternative to the BMW puller. You might want to free up hub/knuckle assembly and check it again, you might have loosened it more than you think. Also, removing the entire axle from the transaxle was VERY easy for me to do and much faster than replacing a boot. I spilled maybe a few drops of transaxle fluid during the swap, not near enough to have to top off. And of course never-sieze the splines of the outer half shaft on reassembly and you won't ever have this problem again. Good luck with it.

did u disconnect the tierod and lower idler arm so the spindle was free to move around? If u did it should have come out. if not it wont have the slack to come out.

I just repaired my outer cv boot, wheel bearing and wheel hub. I hammered on that hub for hours and had no luck. I would highly recommend removing the hub,bearing everything off the strut and press out the hub and bearing.

Search cv boot diy on the forums if you didnt already there is one out there. If you have trouble finding one let me know.

I think the idea is to hit the axle, not the hub, right? That is what I was doing. I could try that some more I guess. I have the lower arm off but not the tierod - I guess it would free things up to remove that. Also, I have not unbolted the strut bolts either, so that may have things too tied together.

Also, make sure the size of your hammer/punch is up to the task. Remember . . . size matters! I used an 8lb long handled sledge and the equivalent of a railroad tie for a punch.

Did Dorothy let you borrow the 7 Dwarfs to hold that log while you hit it? :D

I have been looking around for a fat punch. Best one I found was a 1/2 thick front to back brass one. I have some beefier ones, but the punch side is on the small side. I wanted to find something with a 3/4" end on it, but could not. I have a 5 or 8 lber myself. I guess worse case I could bring out the 15lber with the really long handle, but it takes two hands to hold it and not sure I want either of my kids holding up a punch while I swing that bad-boy :wow:

LOL . . . it did seem awkward at first but I put the end of the handle on my hip (pendulum) and one hand close to the business end of the sledge. Other hand was full grip on the punch. I got the punch at Home Depot I think. It's about 8-10" long with one of those rubber handle/hand protectors on it below the receiving end. My buddy was laughing at me until he saw the punch moving about 1/2" per blow. Good times!

NICE!! I will try Home Depot if the brass punch I found today doesn't work. It is 6" long and about 1/2" thick from head to tail.

So did you disconnect the tierod and strut bolts before wacking it? Seems to me you want to hit it before removing everything or the hub ends up just moving with the axle?

That brass punch might get a pretty good beating. I wacked it before disconnecting the tierod and strut and then once I saw it start to move is when I started disconnecting for removal. I know there is enough play in the cv joints to allow the shaft to move a good bit but don't think there is enough to allow it to come out completely. Oh and also I did douse it with penetrating oil before taking the hammer to it. I don't know if that made a huge difference but it did come out.

The sledge method appears to be a pretty good stress reliever also . . . assuming it comes out of course. Good luck with it and happy wacking!

ya - that is what I figured - best to get it started before unbolting everything. The brass may be too soft, but it was only $8 and is worth adding to my tool chest anyway - it surely will come in handy someday. I may end up stopping by home depot in search of a bigger stick for this job :thumbup:

well - I got the axle out. It was sure jammed in there. I could not find a big enough punch so I made one out of a 3/4" or so chisel I found at home depot. It has a nice handle to hold it and protect the hand from any missed hits. I wacked it good with a 4lb sledge for 15 min or so and finally got it moving. I had it soaking in penetrating oil too and once I got it to move 1/4" I sprayed more. I kept measuring with a steel ruler and realized that I had either moved it about 1/4" or smashed the end of the axle in that much and it didn't look that bashed in, so I must be moving it. So I forged on. Once it was moving it went pretty good, but that first 1/4-1/2" took some serious force. The hitting end of the solid steel punch was flattened a bit. :wow:

Couple tips. Do not remove any of the ball joints until you have that axle moving and most of the way into the hub. Then remove the upper strut bolts (2) and lower rear control arm in that order. That is all that is needed - the hub assembly will swing out of the way and leave plenty of room to work on the end of the axle.

The punch I used was almost as big in diameter as the end of the axle. I installed the 36mm nut on there to prevent slipping and messing up the threads. I'm sure it will be fun to get it back on there enough to start the nut too :rolleyes:

Wow, its been a while since I passed through this post. Congrats on getting the axle out.

Before you try to slip the axle in, get a small steel wire brush and clean up those threads as much as you can. Coat the splines with anti seize afterwards. The axle wont slip right back into the hub, but it helps a bit to get it to the point where you can thread the axle nut at least one or two turns in. After that, let the 36mm on the wrench do it's job.

sounds like a plan!! Ya - it's been sitting for a week or more, I have not had much time to mess with it. It will be good to get this little project behind me so I can drive the beast again!!

....Then again, running around in an S4 Avant would keep me from rushing to finish up my x5...;)

crap. I ended up smashing the threads on the end when I was hammering the CV joint back onto the axle. Duh - I forgot to put the nut on there to protect it that time. Figures.

Anyone know what those threads are? Looks like around 25mm. Wonder if I can find the right die and clean it up...

RD7-14, Die, Metric, Spindle Rethreader, M25-1.5

Anyone know if this is the right thread pitch?