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2 1/2 years isn't very long, is it? Not sure what potholes and drains have to do with boot failure though - I always thought it was tight turns that did them in (based on the fact that while potholes and drains still affect the rear boots, the rear boots don't have to deal with steering forces/angles and therefore last for nearly forever). |
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Certainly can't complain after 2 and 1/2 years for 10 bucks. I also have a VW Transporter and just had to do the coil springs on the front and I wished that someone had gotten the hub off that thing more often as it was a pig of a job so there is a benefit to getting the CV axel out regularly but I don't have the time for it sadly. |
Both boots from rockauto didn't work.
I think what happened is that my cv axle wasn't original, so the diameter was off. Ended up going to Napa and getting boots that were as close as possible to the ones I had. Finished rebuilding https://i.ibb.co/mcf1QBS/20200613-204647.jpg Something to be aware of when changing your boots. CV axle may be aftermarket of different size. |
I know I keep banging on about stickyboots, I did my first video on how to do do them. You guys already have the skills and knowhow how to do these, but this is a beginner's guide. Actually came from a discussion with my brother who has a M3 and very limited skills when it comes to cars and wanted to know how to do his in lockdown and I added to it. :)
https://youtu.be/XvIpGrAU0N0 |
Thanks for the video, Lamby. I gave it your first thumbs up.
I think we have the same Gerber multi-tool! A couple of tips: 1. Get someone to hold the camera for you. 2. Put a written description of the steps, parts and tools needed on YouTube. I think you skipped over a few in the video like how and when you removed the cling film; the proper way to trim the boot and how much you took off both ends. One section on each end? Looks like you're using this Bailcast CVS18 CV Boot Kit: https://www.ebay.com/p/248714547 I couldn't find it on Amazon US, but it is available for (more expensive than the part) shipment on eBay above. |
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They work for me and save me time so I am happy. If I needed to get the hub off anyway, I would get a standard CV boot but I am not sure they last any longer. |
Thanks for sharing your experience with those various CV boots. I replaced my first one last September, after almost 16 years with my 04 4.4i. It had about 41k miles on it at that point.
I noticed Amazon UK sells the Bailcast ones, but they won't ship it to the US for some reason. https://www.amazon.co.uk/CVS18-Unive.../dp/B0080DLLIY I may try your method when I need to change the other side. I used GKN Loebro 31607507402 last time. It's one of the quality ones people have suggested in this thread. The documented "30 minute method" took about an hour and a quarter with two people (the other one a seasoned mechanic). https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...em-31607507402 |
Wow... what a disaster. For anyone planing this i highly advise forgetting about the vice grip circlip method. I ruined a set of vice grips and found it pretty much impossible to get the circlip out. Tried for hours and hours. Waste of time.
What did work is inner boot and tripod removal. Get 2 boots and do it that way. I did it with the axle still hooked up to the hub. And only straight arm removed. Bang the tripod off and change the boots. Grease is different. |
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It really helps to have two people - in fact I'd go as far as to say it requires two people. In my case it was drop-dead simple and while it wasn't a 30-minute job, it was less than two hours from wheel off to beers. If (when) I do another, if I don't have a helper, I'm pulling the inner boot too! |
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I know it’s been mentioned already but has there been any agreement on the correct tripod grease? I used GKN kit, and it came with the grey stuff. |
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