Thanks to all who contributed to this thread.

My mechanic friend and I were able to get it done with the information from posts #40 dville and #45 weasel.

We used a mini sledgehammer without the punch/drift. My biggest punch, about 9", wasn't adequate and my friend didn't bring his larger one. He said brass ones are better. [ Edit: I read oldskewel's post a few earlier than this one again, after posting this. Definitely need to be careful when using a mini-sledge. I'm glad I had an experienced person using it since you can easily do damage. ]

It took about an hour and a quarter taking our time and figuring out where to get the best leverage. We used two vise grips, right next to each other to strengthen the leverage point on the thin part of the axle. Next time, with the correct punch and the knowledge we gained, it'll probably take about 40 minutes. Definitely easier with two people.

One tip that I don't think anyone has mentioned is you can tighten the control arm while the car is still on jack stands. Jack up the wheel assembly to match its normal position, relative to where the car is sitting in the air (see picture). Knowledge shared from my friend who has 62 years experience as mechanic. He started at 8, helping in his dad's repair shop, and just turned 70!

Also, we put the car in neutral so that we could spin the rotor. This may have helped us find the best place to loosen the axle from the joint. Sturdy wheel chocks at the back and the parking brake on.

What about using a cone to slide the boot over, anyone tried that?

Since its quicker and easier to pull the axle from the CV joint, I don't see many DIY folk using stretchy boots, although workshops often use them since they can afford the tools/kits etc.

Last time I removed CV joint from the shaft, I couldn't put it back for hours. It wouldn't go past the little ring. It was on a different car, but I'm dreading to repeat that experience...
This cone tool seems pretty simple
https://youtu.be/WV9jyJu2Ku0

If you're going to all the trouble of removing the axle to the point you can put it on a work bench. I would go the next step.

This tool is so cheap for separating the joint from the shaft I'm ordering it
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071DZK99S/..._e96MEb273FBCR

Only concern is to be able to put it back together

There is a full thread on here somewhere about a tool that may be identical to that one. I bought one myself, hoping to use it one day. Discussed extensively in the thread, and I think the final answer is that the hole the axle shaft goes through is too small to work as it should on the X5, at least for the front axles.

Here's a video of a similar tool. Problem with the x5 is that there are not enough threads available for the nut since the splined part of the shaft is too big for the hole at this point in the video.
https://youtu.be/DzEuu2F-tX8?t=51


Search on here and you should find it. But at the low price, I have no regrets having bought it. I often find ways to use things like this.

Yeah this tool is $19 CAD, which is like $13 USD. Also amazon prime, so I can return it if it doesn't work. At this price point, nothing to lose.

If the splined shaft is too large for this tool, I can grind off the tool slightly so it will fit perfectly.

I will post back once I get the tool. May take a long time as all deliveries are very slow lately.

Popping the axle was super easy with a pry bar.

Ahh differential seals are pretty expensive, $43 each at the dealer

I'm debating if I should change the front bearings as well since I got everything apart. Looks like a crazy job

Will not work without modification. The collar at the top is too narrow. I purchased one of those. They are poorly made in China. I reamed out the collar on the top and ground the top of the collar so it was parallel with the bottom clamp and it worked well.

Putting the CV back on is pretty easy. Just a smack with a hammer pops it back on.

You're right, I had to modify the tool to make it a bit wider.
No big deal.
Passenger side came apart beautifully.
The driver's side did not come off.
I ended up stripping the thread on that axle...
Then I got mad and started banging with a 4 pound hammer, no luck! I hate these CV joints, no way to do it properly, something goes to shit either way...
This guy also only removed one side, and for the other side the tool actually broke
https://youtu.be/RuGlxXxvL7o
That's why I'm always amazed and in disbelief when I hear people say that it's so easy to remove the joint and that's why I was trying to avoid separating the shift from the joint at all costs...