1+,

Use this set:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-.../dp/B0002SRG66

If the 3.0i is like mine, the fill plug currently being discussed is a steel 17mm hex head bolt on the rear end of the left side of the AT (from memory, but I'm pretty sure). So it is not related to the pan bolts or drain plug down there.

That Irwin set from cn90 would require drilling a hole through the plug, which might get it done. If you've snapped a bolt, and the bolt head is gone, tools like that will get the stump out. But since the hex head is still there right now ...

Before trying that, I would use a set like this (which I have):
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-p...p-00952165000P

Attachment 74841

No need to drill a hole. This set is similar to the set in post #28 by wpoll, but this one is purposely undersized, with helical cutting edges so it really locks into the bolt you're trying to remove. Damaging and probably destroying it, but gripping really well.

If you do end up snapping the hex head off, then an extractor set like that Irwin set will do it. Careful drilling with a left handed drill bit (also good ones from Irwin) will be a good way to make a hole. And of course, get any chips out of there before putting the pan back on.

And of course, a new fill plug will be good to have.

Those look very like the ones I posted. :thumbup:

I posted the specific set in the image as they are available locally to the OP, in Australia.

oldskewel,

Thanks for pointing that out.

Below is probably a good set:

https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Impac...dp/B01JDNIYPW/

The head of the bolt is not very tall. An extractor might work if you haven't torn it up a lot but it wouldn't take much before an extractor won't grip either. I wouldn't try anything until you get a great set of extractors. Until then I would spray some penetrating oil on the bolt several times. When you seat the extractor be careful not to hit the socket too hard as the trans body is aluminum. My guess is you will have one shot at removing it with an extractor socket and then that won't work either so make sure the socket is seated and pull at 90 degrees to the bolt. Use a socket wrench that you have enough leverage as it is easier to keep it at 90 degrees.

That said, I think I would get the opinion or even take it to a transmission shop that may have had this happen and have a 'trick' solution.

Please post a photo of your current situation so we can look at it.

Also,

This happens because:
- People use 12-point wrench
- People use an open-ended wrench.
- People did not fully seat the wrench on the bolt head ---> slipping/stripping.

Best is to use 6-point socket. I tighten it a tiny bit, then turn it CCW.
I also sprayed a bit of PB Blaster ahead of time.

This thread has all info you need:

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=971063

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