http://www.xoutpost.com/images/smilies/thumbup.gif Yes, you need all of these to do the job right. Also, make sure you get the shortened timing pin.

Yes, my set came with a longer pin and I had to trim it to fit into the X5 bell housing.

Just a thought for anybody doing this, DO NOT do what my useless indy dealer did and use the timing pin as a lock to try and get the front pulley nut off. You WILL break a chunk off the bell housing.

I have made up a simple tool out of two pieces of 1/4" thick HR flat bar welded together - one piece is 4" x 4" and another is 2" x 18". The 4" x 4" piece has through holes drilled as per holes (and the dowel pin) pattern of the crankshaft's front flange. This tool worked well for locking the crankshaft (of course, with the locking pin removed from the bell housing) while loosening the bolt for disassembly and torquing the new bolt in place after the repair.

You mentioned that you used silicone to dress the gaskets,did you dress all the old metal gaskets?
Do you have any oil seeping through them now?
My internal debate is to use the silicone or not to use it and leave the metal gaskets do the job.
My lower oil pan had no gasket,just a black RTV.I had a hard time removing the oil pan.No leaks were present there,but same silicone under lower and upper timing cases was leaking really badly.
Probably somebody didn't do it right.
I really don't know which way to go,if it leaked in near future I don't want to tear everything once again just to reseal.

Спасибо,тёзка.

I used Ultra Grey high temp silicone in/on all corners of the upper and lower covers - don't go crazy with it, just the corners.

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Speaking of timing chains, I got VANOS sprockets for sale just in case...

http://www.xoutpost.com/classifieds/...it-pinion.html

I have 134k on my '02 4.6is. I just purchased it in March of this year with 133k on it. The reason I have put less than 1k on over the last 6 month is that I have had to do the following so far:

• Replaced valve cover gaskets (they were leaking bad)
• Replaced radiator (cracked while driving and lost a lot of coolant. Running Evans now)
• Replaced driver window regulator
• Replaced FSR (fan blower motor was not working)
• Fixed stripped oil drain plug (used Time-Sert)
• Did transmission fluid replacement (dropped pan method)
• Replaced oil in front, rear and tcase)
• Replaced fuel, air, engine oil, transmission and cabin filters

Truck runs great now with no issues at all. So my question is, should I be worried about imminent chain guide failure, or should I just start driving the truck on a daily basis and then maybe look at doing the chain guides next summer when I'm at about 150k?

What are the odds that I'll have a failure between 134k and 150k?

If it is less than 10%, I'll likely not worry about it right now, but if the odds are greater than 50% a failure will occur, I'll probably tackle the issue now.

Has anyone here gone past 150k with no chain guide issues? What about 200k?

Thanks!

It's plasusiable. I cant say for sure at what % risk.
I replaced mine at 103K due to leaking tc gasket.

Good to know,I am planning to rebuild my old ones with Biesan kit.If it went wrong,I am getting yours.