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We should tell "smoothhd" to try the 10A,as its only 2,5A more and will not cause any circuit overheating. He probablly just something in the a/c-heater circuit consuming slightly more than the 7.5 A. If its something more serious,the 10 A fuse will also blow and he will have to look into the problem further. |
Maybe you connect an Ampere meter instead of the fuse (switch to 10 Amps before). Then you might see if that current flows always or only if you press buttons ..........
Just my 2 Cents |
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there is a service bulletin addressing this exact problem. It suggests checking wiring around aux water pump and behind glove compartment. Think I will hold off on replacing the recommended 7.5 amp fuse with a 10 and do more investigating.
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I went to turn on my fan the other day and it didn't work (all the A/C buttons worked), I thought maybe I'd shorted something out replacing my interior lights with LEDs, but that didn't make sense (not that car problems ever make sense). I was going to look at the fuses, but I wasn't sure where they are, I would guess where the battery is? The parts guy at the dealership said it might be the final stage resistor that is behind the glovebox. I am not sure where to start.
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here is a link to alldata where I found the TSB:
http://library.alldatapro.com/alldat...3452/122641646 |
Cant access it:dunno:
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i'll have to cut and paste it then when i get back to work. guess u need a subscription to use alldata no matter what. it basically says to check wiring in several locations. i checked some of the places that easily accessible and relocated some places that looked questionable. the fuse hasn't blown for 7 days with me constantly messin around with controls. guess i'll tear the wire harness apart in those locations and see if there is anything bare that can be shorted out.
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