Added.

I've been using these exclusively in my BMW's with good results. Super Start line from Oreillys.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/e...85/2006/bmw/x5

Added.

So I haven't got my battery yet - PB's shop was all booked today, so I was going to go in the morning. Today, it got up to 19° F. I hooked up my charger and it was at 25% instead of 0%. 45 minutes later and it is now showing at 95%, whereas the highest it wanted to go last night was 50% when it was 6° F.

If the battery was serviceable, shouldn't it have charged up higher than 50% even though it was only 6° F last night?

% shown on a battery charger is about as accurate as throwing chickens bones when first connected especially if its cold outside.

The only real way to know if a battery is charged is by putting x amp hours into it after knowing how many amp hours was removed from it.

I run into this with my house solar setup. I can hook up an ac based charger like your using but designed for 24 volts and it will run for 30 minutes or so and turn off showing 100% charged. This is after putting 5 amp hours or so into the batteries because it looks at the voltage level to determine charge state. Same thing your charger its doing.

The problem is my house batteries need 30 amp hours to be back charged. Well it may show 29 volts charging and 26.whatever after it stops charging but it will be back to 24 volts in a very short time, usually after 3 hours.

On the flip side once the solar panels spend time putting the 30 amp hours in the system will show 25.whatever volts after 10 hours.

Again the % of charge meters are useless. I have a bad battery here for instance that will show fully charged with all kinds of fancy battery chargers in 10 minutes after connecting to it. The battery wont even run the headlights on a car. Has volts just no amps.

Basically I just hook up a charger and let it do whatever it is willing to do. Remove the charger and see what the voltage is after its been off the charger for 30 minutes to an hour. That will give you a much better indication of the batteries actually charge and or health.

The ultimate method requires having a volt meter hooked up all the time, at least at the key on point.

You watch the voltage everytime you turn the key on before starting. It actually doesn't matter what it shows the first so many times when you know you have a good battery. You just remember what that reading is. When it starts showing lower voltage readings before starting in the future you know you have a problem.

Sorry for the long winded post :)

I read something about that last night, but I have never noticed it. Just went out to try it and I didn't see voltage come up when I turned the key.

All I know is that after sitting 24 hours in very cold temps, my battery was so dead that the alarm went off, then alarm light stopped flashing, interior lights didn't come on and the car forgot the time settings, and possibly my custom programmed options (but radio stations still remembered!). I guess I should ask Pep Boys to test it, but I'm sure they will tell me it needs to be replaced! We have sub-zero temps coming back the next few days and I need it to start.

Yeah with all of that happening I would replace it for sure.

So I got the Bosch H8-900B and Pep Boys didn't charge anything for installation. With the 30% off, it was $126 + tax installed. I'm laughing because the previous owner paid $269 + tax to Firestone for the lesser Interstate battery installed in 2013.

Great score TiminIndy! :thumbup:

It always pays to do your homework and shop around.

Mike

I happened across this post while looking for a battery for my E53. I was looking at the Duracell Platinum agm posted above and found that the regular Duracell actually has better specs for $121.87
CA at 32 degrees F: 1105
CCA at 0 degrees F: 900
RC:185
https://m.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-a...49/prod3590267