Thanks guys, obviously I will make sure tires are at proper pressure when I do the calibration next week, they should not be off by more than 1 psi or 2 at most currently as they were checked a week ago. I have Toyo tires but same sizes as stock, so no worries there. Regardless, 1 or 2 psi would not change my ride height by 40+ mm!

Obviously the last calibration that was done was way off, like I said if my "normal values" should be a height of 707/709 mm then I am approx. 42mm (1.6 inches) off! I will set it to default values first and see how it looks/rides, I may lower another half inch to make it an even 2 inches down from where I am currently at.


I have been looking at my car for the past year going "gosh it really looks high considering I have the sport suspension", I assumed it was right because before I got the car the PO got the suspension calibrated and module replaced, obviously it wasn't done at BMW. I used to put my car in the "access" position and say to myself that's what stock 4.8is ride height looks like! Haha.


Will update next week after playing around with DIS on the GT1 thanks to Neil (neilrmp) who is local to me. TwinsPoppa posted about a function in service functions about "setting the zero point" so I am going to try that function, before trying to do the calibration and "trick the air ride" by putting in positive values to lower, and negative values to raise, etc)

Don't forget "before and after" pictures. I don't recall seeing picture of your X at all, btw.

I've been doing a lot of maintenance in the past year, I had to have time to do proper upgrades and paint correction.

After all, who wants to see a swirled yet shiny X5, with things like faded side markers, cloudy headlights, dry rotted stock 18" tires/wheels, and faded stock grills? Among others.

I will do a proper (ride height before) and "after" of the air suspension next week, I am just wrapping up my left side wheel bearing/outer CV boot today, car is currently on 3 wheels. Once wheels are back on I can get the car washed and take some before pics.


EDIT:
According to my VIN I do have sport suspension settings so I will lower to factory ride height values of 707 Front/709 rear to start, I will see how it looks, then perhaps another 1/2" down from that at the most.

S221A 2 ACHS NIVEAUREGULIERUNG 2-axle self-levelling suspension
S226A SPORTLICHE FAHRWERKSABSTIMMUNG Sports suspension settings
S255A SPORT-LEDERLENKRAD Sports leather steering wheel
S321A EXTERIEURUMFAENGE IN WAGENFARBE Exterior parts in vehicle colour
P330A SPORTPAKET Sports package

Have made some progress lowering the X today to default values (my X5 ranged from 735 to 745 mm on each corner when we started, from bottom edge of 20" wheel to edge of fender), however it's not easy, as you have to keep checking by measuring and its hard to lower/raise in small incremements (like 1/4")

Started in Control module functions, where TwinsPoppa alluded to setting the zero point which is the best way to set default ride height, Raise or lower and set the zero point to where you want it, however I'm having trouble getting my corners even.

Right now the front right is just under 28", while the front rear is about 27.5", I'm still searching for a way to get the corners to even out by incrementally raising and lowering in small amounts and setting it as zero point. I've found that the raising and lowering in the control module function does so in 3/4" to 1" incremements, I'd like to be able to fine tune it if I can.

I think the zero point method of raising and lowering the X is a better method than the "tricking the module" method in ride height calibration, where you add mm's to lower the X and subtract mm's from ride height to raise it. I'm borrowing a friend's GT1 tonight so I will either play with it today or tomorrow and see if I can fine tune the ride heights further.

I had just lowered my 4.8iS on Sunday using DIS. In my case, the rear right sits about an inch higher. I measured from center of the wheel to the edge of the wheel well. GT1/DIS will ask you to enter measurement for each corner and it will do the calibration base on that.
Using TwinPoppa's guide, I enter 707mm (stock sport front with 20" wheels) + 25mm (I want to lower 1 inch all-around) = 732mm for the fronts. For the rear left, it's 709mm + 25mm = 734mm. Since the rear right is 1" higher, I entered 709mm + 50mm (2" lowered) = 759mm.
Now they are even 1" lowered all-around. Remember you have to be on level ground.
I send you a PM with my number if you need help.

I got you man, I just have to measure each corner and add the appropriate amount of mm to make it sit level, I will do another recalibration today. I definitely want the 4 corners to be even (rear should sit about 3mm higher anyway), I'm down to about 710mm now, on my lowest corner yesterday before I started lowering I was at 736mm.


My garage is level so it shouldn't be a problem, I will measure again today and try again to fine tune it. I'm sure I will get it right it just takes some tweaking, and there was rain on the way yesterday so I couldn't finish in my friends driveway.

You also want to be sure to add your 450lbs within the passenger compartment as instructed by the hunter alignment machine. I am using retaining wall bricks from my landscaping ;)

Yeah I know about the sandbag method for alignment but not sure if that's also necessary for setting default ride height? DIS does not mention to weigh the car down although they do mention a level surface. I have almost full tank of gas in the car and all tires are at 33 psi so I am good to go with that.

According to the hunter alignment machine you are supposed to set ride height w/ full tank of gas and 450lbs in the passenger compartment + 50lbs in the trunk.

I would assume it's trying to help you from having your 20's rub on the fender well's while running from the cops...

I'm no expert tho

while running from the cops after robbing Fort Knox of all the gold (500 lbs) in your trunk? lmfao!