Somewhere between setting doors and windows and internal framing I finished off the second unit and now they are waiting to be mounted on the car.

RB, the projector is mounted on four studs which are screwed into the oem shroud from the back. Those studs are screwed into four little cylindrical protrusions (for lack of a better word). I simply shortened the protrusions and refitted the studs. Then the front of the shroud has to be drilled out to get the projector to stick out through it so that you can slip the M3 shrouds onto to the projectors. Pictures of this are on page #2 of this thread.

I am going to fit mine when I do the chain guides and valve cover gaskets.

Somewhere between setting doors and windows and internal framing I finished off the second unit and now they are waiting to be mounted on the car.

RB, the projector is mounted on four studs which are screwed into the oem shroud from the back. Those studs are screwed into four little cylindrical protrusions (for lack of a better word). I simply shortened the protrusions and refitted the studs. Then the front of the shroud has to be drilled out to get the projector to stick out through it so that you can slip the M3 shrouds onto to the projectors. Pictures of this are on page #2 of this thread.

I am going to fit mine when I do the chain guides and valve cover gaskets.

Great tips thanks for explaining! Really can't wait to see these fitted on your car, seeing your "facelift style turn signal" is actually inspiring me to try and open my factory housings up (they are permasealed), do the same type of cut you did, although I would spray the amber piece matte silver when finished. I really love the job you've done though!

Last request, can you give me some details on how to re-fit the amber turn signal pieces?

EDIT: I re-read page one it looks like they need to be epoxied back in place.



You want to send me your stock 4.4 lights so I can test my permaseal defeating methods? (I'm going to try to open stock housings without cutting them open) Would be a great help to the forums if I could take some time to find a method that really "works" for getting the permasealed headlights open.

Hi TriX5,
Just admiring your good work and patience:thumbup:
Can you clarify something for us!I am surprised no one asked you yet!Can you tell us the build date of your headlights?Your X5 being a 2003 registration,those headlight must be pre 10/2002 build ,surely,looking at the black sticky glue!I wasnt so lucky ,mine were build 10/2002 (had to dremel)and 7/2002 (this had the black glue ,like yours :))
Keep up the good work :thumbup:

Don't know if he clarified in a prior post or not but I remember him saying he bought a set of used MY2000 headlights to work on, so his 2003 headlights I'm pretty sure were post 10/02 build

You right!He mentioned it in his 1st post!I should have been more aware:(
Thanks for pointing it out for us :thumbup:

any risks running 55w on a x5 that came with halogens? looking to upgrade lighting & would like max output. want to make sure it won't burn out the factory harness. thanks

but i plan on getting projectors, just talking about wiring wise.

Stick to 35W xenons -

What he said unless you plan on running relays with larger than factory wiring to handle the extra current. Even then, no telling what damage the extra heat would do to the headlight housings/internal wiring as they were designed for 35w.

So yeah, 35w would be best. lol

forgot I even made this post lol. well i've had 55's before but can't remember if they did any harm to the housing/electrical. I know 55 will draw more current but didn't think it'd be enough to do damage.

i won't take the chance though thanks