:lmao:

Hi Jeff -

This is the door latch, correct? I removed it yesterday, just to see what it was all about. It looks like I can't really get to the Hall sensors, so I'm not sure how to test them. The service manual I picked up did not have a procedure for that (or I didn't find it :().

Anyway, do you know if 0648210-1k0397-111 is the correct part number? Where is the best place to purchase this item?

Thanks so much for your help!
Dan

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...%20X5/1697.jpg
http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...%20X5/1698.jpg

Have you been able to isolate the problem to the driver's door lock? I would think you could play around and see if that is the one keeping the lights on before paying for a new lock. They aren't cheap.

Not sure what the number is. Look for it on realoem, specific to your model and year. I would go to the dealer, but there may be web sources that sell it. You could search for the part number online.

Here is a link:

RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 3.0i DOOR CONTROL FRONT

No - I have not isolated it to the driver's door. I removed the latch just to get a feel for the job, how it operated, etc - mainly out of curiosity. I was hoping to somehow figure out a way to test / isolate the problem once I got in there, but drew a blank. The link I posted on 8/18 does say that the lock mechanism is a self contained unit with no replaceable parts.

The last thing I want to do is replace it without confirming that the latch itself (likely the Hall sensors) are the issue.

I still have the interior lighting fuse out and have had no issues at all since, so at least I know the problem is isolated to that particular circuit.

Maybe I'll plug the fuse back in and play around with opening and closing doors, etc - see if I can isolate the problem. :dunno:

Thanks for the link :cool:.

That is what I would do. You should be able to leave the doors open and fool the latch by locking it over something (Weasel has mentioned using a pen, but I haven't tried that).

I'll give that a try this weekend. The service manual lists all the interior light time delays (key on, key off, door locked, door unlocked, Jets win, Jets lose :D), so hopefully I will be able to narrow it down.

If I don't get anywhere, I might pull the door panel back off and unplug the wiring harness from the driver's door latch assembly, to better isolate the problem / troubleshoot.

Do you think it would be ok if I left the battery hooked up while doing this? The service manual calls for disconnecting the negative cable before pulling the door panel etc, but I need it hooked up to further test.

Thanks!
Dan

My only concern would be the airbag. I would probably disconnect it, open the doors up and make sure no wires are shorting when I plug them in/unplug them, and then reconnect the battery to diagnose the switches, with the doors apart.

That was my concern (airbag) as well. I'll do that - disconnect neg cable, disconnect airbag, and re-connect neg cable, then test.

Thanks Jeff - I really appreciate it!

Dan

Don't reconnect the battery with an airbag disconnected. If you do, you will have the indicator ON in the cluster, and need to have it reset.
If you want to test with the door disassembled, reconnect the airbag and suspend it with a wire, then you can reconnect the battery to search for the problem.

Even better - thanks Turbo!