Xoutpost.com - Calibrating self leveling question

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Taosx5 after 93k you need to start checking for worn suspension in the rear because i know you change out the front suspension at least once or maybe twice already.

Me too, i had a squeaky bush, replaced it and then had tracking, i couldn't get the opposite rear wheel to spec so after having a good look at it i noticed the bush had collapsed. new bush then tracked again, everything was in perfect spec after that.

When the before and after starting ride height does not change that is a good indicator the system is working properly. The difference in right to left rear means the ride height needs to be adjusted.

The X5 service manual mention a special scanning tool for re-calibration so
I have never had or done a re-calibration. I had tire wear issues and it they couldn't get it in spec and I was using the aggressive camber specs. I had a difference in the rear side to side height which was a mechanical issue. The problem was that the linkage on the level sensor was bent or turned over. I caused it when I changed a tire and let it down too fast or after changing a shock. All I did is get a new control rod linkage so I knew it was not bent and all was fine. The bracket can also be bent--compare side to side linkage and brackets. Differences in ride height change camber. It is hard to see the level sensor unless you take the wheel off and facing the rotor look between the upper and lower suspension.

At 93,000 miles it could be a ball joint or joints or a bushing and you should check but ride height difference is very easy to fix and far less cost.

Once ride height is the same side to side on the rear you can check camber again. if you are not within specs you will know the problem is elsewhere in the suspension.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 874551)

I appreciate all of your input, thanks. I tend to agree with bcredliner that if I can have the self leveling re-calibrated and it fixes the problem it will be less expensive (about one hour of labor and no parts) than changing out ball joints and control arms. My alignment guy told me the same thing. He said that by simply lifting the right rear corner ie pulling up on the rear bumper will reduce camber. He suggested re-calibration. I was hoping someone on the forum has actually done this and what the results were. I was also wondering how experienced are the BMW techs in doing this.

I live in a small town and there is one shop that has the BMW scan tool to do this calibration but the tech has never done it before.

I suggest that it would be worthwhile to take a look at the sensor and see if the connecting rod or bracket is bent. You can get a glimpse of the sensor by laying down in the front of the back tire. I have attached a photo so of the sensor and connecting rod. Yours will look different as I lowered my X5 and part of the kit from H&R Springs included an adjustable connecting rod. It fools the sensor so I can manually adjust either side of the rear.

Acknowledging I know nothing about the BMW scanning tool, it seems logical to me that if the sensor bracket or the connecting rod is bent the sensing tool will not correct the problem.

Man I wish I had seen that video before I swapped out my rear air bags... I could of checked that while in there.

Thanks all and thanks BC for the pic. When I swap out my winter for summer tires, I look very closely for wear on any thing that can be spotted with wheel removed. I did notice the sensor and did not notice anything unusual, bent or whatever. I am gonna crawl under it this evening after work and double check.

I talked with the local indy here and since his tech had never mesed with BMW suspension issues, suggested that we just try to calibrate the leveling and then see if the camber will be able to be adjusted to spec. What he basically told me was he would like to check everything set up the alignment machine and all I heard was $$$$$$$. It is kinda like going to the doctor cuz you sprained your ankle and then he/she wants to run a battery of tests on you.

I also talked with the mech who did the alignment. He did have the rear wheels off and he to does not think a bad ball joint or control arm bushing. He sees a lot of this stuff so I trust his experienced eye. Which brings me to another question, for those of that replaced rear ball joints and or control arms, did you have to have the rear suspension calibrated afterward?

Keep the advice coming guys and gals and anyone with any suspension calibration knowledge, please share. Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer (Post 874461)

I also think that the OP has worn components at the rear suspension.
I had the same wear, and the outcome was that one ball joint and one suspension arm were worn (had play at the joint)
After replacement, the camber was better (from -2.7 to -2.2), but -2.2 was the minimum we could dial at the maximum of the adjustement.

So, anyone had success with the VAC method?

Turbo, what was the mileage on your X5 when you replaced the ball joint and control arm? Are you still getting wear on that tire? Mine was -2.3 and was able to get it to -2.2 but it still has me concerned.

The VAC Motorsports video is great. This indicaties that you can't see the problem unless you take pressure off the system. For those of you that have replaced the ball joint and control arm bushing, does it mean the other side is about ready to be replaced? Do both sides wear similarly or what would cause one side to wear and not the other?

It will need to be aligned. It will need to be calibrated if side to side measurement is not the same.

Quote:

Originally Posted by taosx5 (Post 874804)

I replaced those parts last week at 90000km. But, when I bought the X, it was at 77000km, and the tires were already worn on the inside, so I suppose that those parts failed around 70000km (42000mi).

For the wear, I installed 2 brand new tires at the back just before my alignement last thursday, so I will need more time before I see if the wear is even.
When I had my alignment done, I specified to have the minimum 'toe in' possible (0'.01'') rear and front because the toe is the setting that will affect more the inside wear.