Timely thread for me. I just replaced the filter and gasket and noticed some dampness around the shaft seal. I have the shaft tool for a GM tranny and will get this done too. Thanks for the part #. Realoem was not of much help

A tis bulletin is o.k., but a video on how to use the tool to remove the seal is priceless. The trans is not in a BMW but this is the correct procedure for using the tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgjREMpHaNs

More video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c8OXpZyuBo

Finally replaced it today. Seal number is 8644709!

I didn't need a extractor tool in my case...actually the seal had moved towards the selector rod actuator by itself and I guess this has caused the leak. The seal had totally hardened out

The most difficult part was getting the new seal in place. Using a 14mm socket with the help of a lever against the 4wd drive axle is the best option in my eye. Pushing by hand or hammering did not lead to anywhere.

Thanks for the confirmation. I've been spending a little time under my 2001 3.0i lately and notice a little leak and looseness at that location, so I'll probably replace that seal.

And it looks like @ScottZHP's post #15 is for the wrong seal, and his post #19 is for the correct one, right?

Attachment 74186

I did this the other day on my 2001 E53 3.0i, with the 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R) 5-speed auto transmission made by GM, with 186k miles.

The correct seal was the one mentioned in post #19, GM # 8644709, imported from Detroit.

And I also (needed and) bought a special tool - GM transmission seal tool, Evercraft # 776-9250.
I got the tool locally at NAPA, for about $8:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769250

and the seal on Amazon for about $5.

On the tool:
I would not be surprised if that GM transmission seal tool works on all 100 zillion GM transmissions ever made. I did not see any others, and the labeling simply says GM transmission ...

Encouraged by the post above, I first made a quick attempt to get the seal out without using a tool. Would not have been possible without the special tool. Not worth the risk of scratching the Aluminum bore.

The tool has 3 parts. Looking at the photo in the packaging below, the thing on the left side is just a thick steel cylindrical tube for pressing the new bushing in. A properly sized socket should do at least as well. On the right side is the black steel sleeve with a screw screwed into it. Due to the driveshaft being in the way, I did not use the screw at all, other than to try and fail and decide not to use it. So of those 3 parts, the only special one you really need is the black sleeve. It is a hair over the 1/2" shaft diameter so it fits over the AT selector rod shaft, and then has a very thin wall at the top so it can fit between the rod and the old bushing. And coarse threads there are to dig into the rubber (or soft steel, I guess) bushing, so it can be pulled out.


Some notes on the job:
Tool had to fit over a ~0.503" diameter shaft, and was about 0.501" ID, as I received it, so I reamed the top portion slightly with a 1/2" drill bit.

Difficult due to close proximity of driveshaft there. I did not use the bolt part of the tool, just the threaded sleeve. I screwed the tool in using a 5/8" ratcheting wrench, kept going until I could see the bushing was being pulled out. So I knew it had a good grip on it at that point. The tool is very thin walled up at the tip, and has coarse threads, so it is meant to slip in between the steel shaft and the rubber seal, and the threads are meant to grip into the rubber.

This is when the screw part of the tool is then supposed to screw in on the backside, and pull the tool+bushing out together by pushing on the end of the steel shaft. But this would have been very difficult due to the driveshaft being in the way. So I just wiggled and pulled the tool out and the bushing came out nicely.

The tool to press the new seal in was not great. A socket might have been better. A piece of the edge of the rubber got clipped when installing it, but should not be an issue. Again, it was difficult due to the driveshaft being in the way.

Afterwards, there was still in-out play of the shaft, but no more leaks.
Attachment 74229

Attachment 74230

Attachment 74231

Attachment 74232

So I also need to do this job, just turned 168k. I bought both the Transmax and Timken seals to compare. Both are about $3 at Rockauto.

The ID and OD are identical (0.5in, 0.75in) , and both are metal clad. The difference is the seal depth. The Transmax seal (84072A) is about twice as deep as the Timken and is rubber coated. Will be using the deeper version. Transmax looks identical to the AC Delco/GM version.

The seal on mine was the part number you cited in post #19, looked exactly like the stock pic I posted in post #24, and came in the packaging I showed in post #25. And the one that came out looked just like it, except the exposed surface was hard and cracked and came of in little crumbly pieces. Then the rest of it came out in one piece.

I managed to get my seal out with the Evercraft tool but I had to hammer it in there before it grabbed enough. I took my drive shaft out completely BTW.

But I destroyed the new seal trying to get it installed with the tool the kit came with. I just ordered two more.

Just so I'm not going insane, does the seal go in 'cup-side' first toward the vehicle centerline, or with the cup facing outward? I'm pretty sure it's the former, but it sure goes on over the shaft a lot easier via the latter.

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...nual-lever.jpg

The top of the seal as shown in the picture should be facing out. Put some oil on the lip of the seal as well as the circumference of the seal, and make sure the bore that you are inserting the seal into is CLEAN.

Thanks for the fast reply!

Yup that's what I figured... And I did clean the bore and shaft very well and used a touch of red grease, but it just did not want to install over the shaft... Well, I got two more tries coming my way via Amazon prime. What a pain. And I thought the hard part was going to be removing the front drive shaft lol.