I would stay with the BMW oil.

I don't consider the LL specs relevant. LL-01 is not a current spec, and LL-04 is not recommended by BMW for this application.

I tend to agree with you especially with limited oci's. that said there is not much available that meets the rest of the spec acea 3/4 etc that's not already ll01. I think some of the vag/ll98 stuff does. Either way, I change oil 2x year, on probably a 3-5k mi oci, so it's somewhat a moot point for me.

My issue with m1 0/40 is the impression of noise and consumption in the m5x engine family.

That's a lot of extra oil changes.

My vehicles are running fine with much longer intervals.

Oh I could push it but a) I believe in matching vis to season and b) I don't put on a lot of miles...

Hey guys, thanks a lot for the advice, just to give you an update, I did the really hot oil change, used the same BMW oil I have been using. For the last 5 days or so I haven't taken an trips that were too short for the temperature gauge to get to the middle and stay there for a while. I'm still getting a little of thy yellow sludge when I check it in the morning after it has been sitting overnight. I plan on using that trick I read about, shoving a clear tube down the hose and trying to suck the sludge out of the ccv. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to avoid having the replace the ccv, most shops around here are quoting close to $1000 for the labor.

Why are you against 0/40?

CCV isn't that hard to do, unless the orientation is vastly different than on an S52.

Where do I start. Lots of reports of high consumption with 0/40 in m5x engines. I've also seen uoa's with strange numbers in this application. Sheers way down. I also personally think 0/40 is something of a chemical abomination, the additives needed to achieve a 40pt wt spread must be substantial. While I like the price and its ll-01 (which is a different conversation), I would rather not use it.


At the end of the day anything is fine assuming you do an appropriate OCI. I only drove about 6k miles this year But did 2x oil changes. Overkill? Probably but I'm anal about viscosity

Hey guys,

So turns out I'm pretty sure I'm screwed and I really need your guys' help and advice. Since taking those longer trips, I haven't been noticing much of that yellow sludge so I'm pretty sure it was just due to the cold trips. But now coolant keeps going down and my dipstick is way overflown and really runny when I check it, even when the car has sat overnight in -20.

I'm pretty sure from reading all over that my head gasket is blown. I think the overheating issues I had over the summer had something to do with that.

That burnt smell is also getting worse when stopped/idling after driving a while, and it's definitely noticeable at the front of the car when you get out.

It sucks tho because she seems to run perfectly fine, but I guess it must be a ticking time bomb now till the blows.

I called a local indy that used to be the foreman at the dealer here and he said those head gasket jobs start at around $3000 and can go up really quick cus they normally find things warped and whatever afterwards, and he's saying sometimes it's better to get a motor swap done and that's around $10000. I really don't have the money for this and want to know what you guys think I should do.

I'm a good DIY'r, but this head gasket seems over my head. Especially if something else is wrong once I get in there. Should I man up and try it? Should I drive it into the ground? I'm pretty stressed now as this is my only vehicle, any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.

There is a great repair video at Bavauto.com for the CCV replacement. It is a time consuming repair. They also sell a complete upgrade insulated CCV kit. It fits perfectly. While your down there, check your Disa valve,it's easier to get to your T.B. and don't forget to purchase a new T.B. gasket. Good luck. As for oil - SAE and standards and guidelines.