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Update,
Ok, i have take out the tranny pan, see pictures: here, I do see some metal shaving but not really much,oil looks burned like the dealer said,it come out quite a lot , as it was on cold tranny, and the 4 magnets where quite full with some stuff i guess from shavings , but putting my finger in there did not notice any big pieces of shaving, If you look on one of my pictures on my finger ,i thing in the pan corner and wall found just a little bit, Also called few places around that deals with bmw only and they said that temp is little high maybe because of the smaller cooler ,or the tranny thermostat that's under the expansion tank may not work properly , but i guess this is still an internal problem. So what you guys this think? Thanks, (post 80 and this one are new...) |
Inspected the valve body cracks and i don't see any cracks...
Now,regarding those valves can those be tested , on the electrical side? like the one that helps with shifting ?... (still need to read the tranny manual ,and what those do ) Thanks, http://i40.tinypic.com/96vnua.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/992og6.jpg |
any news?
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I do not know if you solved the jolt problem.
The transmission downshifts to lower gears as the car is slowing down and should be in first gear when at a complete stop. the jolt is happening because it is delaying to downshift and then it downshifts into the lower gear. Also it is happening on re-acceleration after slowing down, it is going into first gear during acceleration, when it is supposed to go into first gear during slowing down. To me it sounds like a transmission problem. The most likely possibility is low fluid and/or dirty filter. Also it can be an issue of software/controls as well. And sometimes an engine performance problem. I am curious to know how it was resolved. |
@ika,
Not much news,but the only news is that i have changed oil and filter (petrosin atf-1) and tested the output speed sensor,done the driving test again ,and still does the 1-2 jolt when hot,so this is an internal problem due to some o-ring seal failing , i think from my reading at clutch A somewhere. Right now i have took the tranny down and waiting for the rebuild kit. @Bismark, Fluid was ok,no software updates available for the 2003. Tranny internal problem. Thanks, |
I have same problem , it's the engine performance . Just watch the rpm when you try to stop the car... It goes way below and to abrupt under 500rpm. It shouldn't . When engine hot its really annoying this jolt so in town I drive it in Sport mode ( less obvious) and also you will protect the transfer case . I tried everything I think it might the solenoids
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opened the tranny , today , and yes, found few problems:
The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016) - apart The Disc Carrier (72.180 - 1058 271 041) - signs of rubbing against each other. And also the O-Ring on the input shaft ,broken. (70.014 - 0734 313 151) Well this confirms all the info that jolt 1-2 is from this few things. |
I have same problem...
please provide pics. what those numbers are: The Bearing set (02.240-1058 20 016) - apart The Disc Carrier (72.180 - 1058 271 041) - signs of rubbing against each other. And also the O-Ring on the input shaft ,broken. (70.014 - 0734 313 151) |
4.6 IS Transmission subtle nudge and EDS 5
1 Attachment(s)
Could you keep me posted on your fix bosanci28. I have a similar issue. I have the 2-1 light jolt (I mean light), but definetly notice it. Usually after the tranny warms up or operating temp. I also have an EDS 5 solenoid code P1745, BMW CODE 05. Cannot replicate as it only becomes present on mornings before I leave for the shop on COLD COLD days(-10 to -40C). Gonna swap positions with maybe 03 or 02 shortly.
Not sure if these are related issues. Just hesitant to see dealer. Possible EGS unit has weak transistor. Would love to scope but once it goes into failsafe, trans. at max. pressure. If turn truck off and restart 10 seconds after runs, failsafe is gone and runs good. Sometimes good for 1 week. sometimes 6 weeks. This trans. also has been rebuilt, but not the valvebody from what I was told, at 140,000 kms. Same jolt before and after the rebuild. Torque converter replaced with OEM from BMW, and ZF OEM fluid (50 bucks a L) per my request. New filter ETC.... New VB $1700.00 from Germany. Not a lot of tranny shops familiar with these. I know there's a lot of possibilities, just wondering if anyone here has seen this. I've attached the code parameters from shopkey, hopefully it comes up on this posting. |
i have order repair kit and the bearing,and waiting for them to come...till then ,wait..wait..wait.
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