Install rebuilt ABS Module
 

I just got my module back and was wondering if anyone can help with the installation. Do I need to dis connect the battery? Should I spray some MAF cleaner or brake cleaner on the parts that have been in the car? Do I need to turn the steering wheel or any resetting like that?

It is a good idea to disconnect the battery negative. Make sure connector pins are clean (no oily residue). Plug in ABS module, then reconnect battery, that's it.

Thank you for the response. I'll see what happens.

I just did the exact job. Did not disconnect the battery.

I removed the ABS module (had to remove driver's side headlight assembly, fan and fan shroud in order to gain access to the 6 torx screws. Sent it off to Matt at CheapABS for repair ($150 total cost).

Reinstalled and everything is working again. No more trifecta lights.

My symptom was: trifecta lights would come on when the engine compartment heats up. ABS module was defective.

I re-installed it and no change!!!!!!!!??? Still have no speedometer and the trifecta of lights on the dash. Had mine done by Matt also. I guess it was a waste of time and money. Now I dont know what to do next. Wheel sensors?

Bad wheel sensor will show light for check brakes or brakes rather than trifecta.

Make sure you don't force the electrical connector on, or you will bend/ break pins off in the ABS/DSC housing. The connector should fit square to the top, then when you push the retainer back in (on the harness), the connector should sink "gently" into the ABS/DSC module.

(A bad wheel sensor will produce the 3 yellow lamps on the dash.)

Two bad wheel sensors will put your vehicle into "transmission failsafe mode" on top of the 3 dreaded yellow lamps.

When I put the connector back on it was kind of hard then CRACK and it went on. Now i am thinking I did some damage. The trans fail safe light just came on. Now my dash looks like Christmas. Not sure about these BMW's. A lot of trouble with this one. I think it's cursed.

I unplugged the harness and all pins look to be intact. Nothing appears to be wrong with the connector.

The problem is either a sensor, or your ABS/DSC box still is faulty. If you have a small "Amp clamp" you can lift your vehicle, remove the tires and rotate the rotors while the amp clamp is around one sensor wire. This is done with the ignition on, engine not running. You will see pulses as the magnets pass the Hall effect sensor. This varifys that the ABS/DSC module is supplying power to the wheel sensor, and the sensor is sending pulses back to the box. If one sensor causes no deflection on your meter, then sensor swapping with a known good sensor proves whether the box or the sensor is at fault. This way of testing is non invasive to your system as your not poking DMM test leads into wiring harness's.

Don't start blindly changing sensors! That gets expensive "FAST!" Find the fault, or get someone that can find it for you.

Good Luck :thumbup: