This is almost similar to the question about what oil is best. :D

The X5 (like many other BMWs) uses a 49/H8 or 95/H9 battery class size. That is what you shop for...whether you want a lead-acid battery or an AGM battery, or other Gel type battery.

Compare the warranty and specs based on the price you're comfortable paying.

Previous owner installed a Bosch from pep girls before I bought the X 2 years ago, cca of 850 I believe? Anyway the X hasn't had a hiccup since then, if JCL or quicksilver post up here the battery brand chart you will notice that 2 manufacturers (Johnson controls and exide I think?) make all the replacements found in stores, so you really can't go wrong as long as you buy the right type.

Is this what you're looking for? :D There may be another major player (name escapes me at this time)...plus some "boutique" battery mfgs that are out there as well. The industry shifts every-now-and-then as manfactures buy-out each other. Johnson Controls is notorious for buying up major battery mfgs. They even took-over VARTA which was the main supplier to BMW for a long time (and VARTA was once owned by the Quandts...the 1st family of BMW).

But as mentioned, shop for the battery class size mentioned...sometimes you may see a -1 battery class size...like a 94R or 48 or H7 battery that will fit in the battery well, too. But again, take note of the battery's specs to see if they work for you and the enviroment in which you live...as well as the warranty:

• RC (reserve capacity)
• CC (cranking amps)
• CCC (cold cranking amps)
• AH (amperage hour)

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...20Controls.jpg

Yes, there are many great alternatives that are offered at most auto stores. What is important is that the battery is vented as per the original battery. Also, be sure it has at least the cold cranking and amp hours rating of the original battery.

For less than the price of the OE BMW battery you can purchase a battery that is better than the original. The greater the amp ratings the longer the warranty. No problem with any battery that meets or exceeds BMW amp specs as long as it is properly vented.

When removing the battery disconnect the negative terminal first. The radio presets and the time and date may need to be set after the new battery is installed. I never connect a trickle charger as some suggest. I think it is a bad practice. FYI--I have disconnected my battery many many times with no problems.

Many of the NG (new generation) radios installed in the e53 may retain their settings after a "brief" loss of power.

The main things that will need to be reset are mentioned in the owners manual. They tend to be the individual settings like the OBC features programmed into the instrument cluster display, the sunroof (at least the early ones...not sure about the pano S/R)...Time & Date, etc.: (see POWER FAILURE)

I have two. BUT my garage is not built yet so I can't use them. hope so in a few weeks

I just wanted to share my experience today.

Car has had died on me recently so after reading posts on here, I decided to go and get it done.

Went to sears, they would not install the battery on a 06 x5 because they had issues. So I decided to purchase the diehard and do it myself. Well after installing the battery, the car would crank but would not start. I put the old battery back after that.

So after returning the battery at sears, went to the dealer. After talking with the foreman, he checked my vin and he confirmed that the car needed to be reprogrammed. It was $229 for battery and $205 for labor. Well I had no choice so I decided to go ahead and do it only to find our there were no appointments available for the day.

So I just bought the battery and was going to take to Indy shop who was going to do it for $100, but also could not guarantee it would be done today.

So I tried again in a parking lot by putting the new bmw battery and what do you know, car starts. Aldo don't see any issues. Should I take this car to get it programmed or am I ok?

In a way...it was good that things worked against you...you ended up saving money. :) Hopefully you hooked the battery up to the vent tube...its important that the battery is vented since it is enclosed...it will prevent excess corrosion as well as allow the hydrogen gases produced by the battery to be vented to the exterior instead of building up below the cargo floor, where a spark could ignite the gases and blow up the battery. And sparks can be generated as a normal occurrence while driving around when the charging system at times will overcharge and send a spark back to the battery.

As discussed in detail a few weeks ago...regardless of what your service provider told you...the e53 x5 does NOT have an IBS (intelligent battery sensor)...sensor nor system...so there is no way to code a replacement battery.

Those that are falling for this mixup with the e70 x5 is paying for something that is not needed. As you experienced yourself, as well as many others that aren't even aware that new BMWs require new batteries to be coded...swap in a new battery into the e53 without any issues at all.


click link to read reply with diagram/illustrations from a few weeks ago: http://www.xoutpost.com/966037-post2.html

The e53 is a model generation BEFORE the e60 5 series. Its generational cousins are the e38/e39/e46. The e60 generational cousins are the e65/e70/e90...thus the IBS came along starting with their generation...which uses a different communication bus (MOST) and has iDrive etc and electronic dip sticks etc. THE E53 DOES NOT NEED BATTERY REGISTRATION!!!

http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...20Info%201.jpg
http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/q...20Info%202.jpg

Thanks for that post.

What is really strange is that when I was at the dealer parts, they told me that there are two different batteries for my car and I needed the old battery. I had taken a picture if the top of the battery and that is how we matched it. It is strange that the foreman after double checking my vin confirmed that I needed to reprogram. I don't think he would lie. Maybe I am naive.

The other strange thing is that the sears diehard didn't work. It was more powerful than the bmw battery. It had CCA rating of 900 as opposed to the 640 on the bmw. When I started the car, the cranking seemed louder too, it just wouldn't start though.

I can't believe I had so much stress about changing the battery. Seems like such an easy thing.

Thanks so much for all your info.

Oh one more thing, I did get the variable 4•4 sign come on, but it went away after I drove it. I got this before too when my battery died and I had to jump it.

Between door freezing and window regulator freezing after the snow storm and battery dying, this has not been a good winter for my car. Luckily, I just got a new pilot for my wife. It would have not been good if she faced these issues with the young kids in freezing temperatures.

Actually, after thinking about it, I am beginning to think that bmw service does not have all the answers. Last year my x5 was at the dealer for over two weeks getting programmed. The programming update failed numerous times and the dealer took forever getting it right. Initially they were going to replace my transmission, but the foreman decided to try programming the ecu.

Anyway my point is that the car is getting so complicated that the dealers also are trying to figure things out on the fly.