I hear you! Gotta get through the transmission rebuild as well first though. I've never done a transmission before, but you guys keep telling me the 5HP24 is a walk in the park. Hopefully with your help, I'll manage!

And then there's that pesky from axle bearing stuck on the axle. I suppose I better dealing with that sooner rather than later so see what I'll end up having to do to get it working again.

But I'm a glass is half full kinda a guy, so I'm still optimistic I'll have the 4.6 back on the road by early June!

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

that link pretty much has all the information you will need to get that ZF back to factory spec :)

Before all the electronics we tested engines before we dropped them in. Is there a version of that now?

Very cool link bigblac! I have come across some of the links from that page, but it is great to have a "'launch page" if you will and there are some awesome links!

This evening I pretty much just to got intake pieces and brackets cleaned. They were extremely oily all of them.

Belt tensioners/pulleys/brackets

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_16_01.JPG

Shot of the rear intake cover to capture where the brackets go

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_16_03.JPG

Intake pieces all cleaned up. Took like 30 mins to get the TB throat cleaned up. Boy that brown film of grime was hard to get off, even with brake cleaner.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_16_04.JPG

Also got the front axle bearing soaking in pb blaster. I plan to use a large open wrench on top of the bearing and then give it a go with the sledge

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_16_02.JPG

There has to be an interference fit between the bearing and the housing or else the bearing will be spinning inside the housing. Could be that when they assemble the bearing and housing, the bearing was cooled and the housing heated so that the bearing would shrink and the housing will expand and you could just slip the bearing into the housing.

I got the bearing situation resolved I believe, but let me back up and wrap up the engine first.

Intake gaskets installed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_01.JPG

Torque the 10 nuts to 15 Nm

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_02.JPG

Installed new hose on rear manifold cover. The original one had a zip tie on it, so I figured I'd do the same

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_03.JPG

Route that house under the coolant pipes when installing

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_04.JPG

Make sure the long pipe fits into the hole in the front end of the manifold

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_06.JPG

Torque torx bolts to 8 Nm

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_05.JPG

Fitting new hoses to match the old

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_07.JPG

Installed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_08.JPG

Front cover and TB installed along with accessory bracket and dip stick

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_09.JPG

New crank bolt installed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_10.JPG

New crank pulley bolts torqued to 22 Nm

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_11.JPG

Vacuum hoses routed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_12.JPG

Rear view

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_13.JPG

Front view

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_14.JPG

That's pretty much it for the engine for now!

Circling back to the front axle bearing. I was able to remove it from the axle using my shop press and a couple of pieces of iron that would fit between the bearing and CV housing

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_15.JPG

Bearing all cleaned up. Still nice and tight

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_16.JPG

Axle shaft

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_17.JPG

I re-packed the bearing and installed it into the housing using a 1 7/8" socket and sledge

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_18.JPG

New axle seal installed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_19.JPG

And axle shaft installed. Used a block of 4x4 and a sledge.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_20.JPG

So now it's finally time to tear down the transmission!

First I removed the gear position sensor. I need to get some wireloom to replace that old cracked up one on there now.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_21.JPG

New I flipped the tranny over. It was a little on the heavy side, but I managed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_22.JPG

Pan removed

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_23.JPG

Inside of pan doesn't look too bad. This is before I touched it with anything. So it is still pretty much as clean as it was when I last had it off some 1000 miles ago or something like that.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_24.JPG

Valve body

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_25.JPG

Electrical connector pushed into housing after removing retaining clip

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_26.JPG

Input and output shaft speed sensors pulled

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_27.JPG

After loosening all the large head T27 bolts, the whole assembly lifts right off

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_28.JPG

Main housing at this point

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_29.JPG

I next used a punch to drive the pin out of the selector shaft

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_30.JPG

I then used a 1/4" extension and cardboard to pry the oil lines loose.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_31.JPG

Here they are along with the selector shaft

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_32.JPG

Next I removed the circlips from the 2 pressure springs

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_33.JPG

I was unable to pull the sealing sleeves out from the base of the bores using a pick took. They are in there real good. I can rotate them, just not pull them out. May need to fashion a better tool for this purpose.

That's it for now.

Too late, I know, but I’d strongly advise against levering against the valve block sealing face to remove the pipes. It’s better to feed a piece of cloth under the pipe, wrap the ends together and then pull.

This is the tool I made up to remove the C & D clutch rubber jump tubes :

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...TubePuller.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...ubePuller2.jpg

You’ll have noticed that the two circlips for the anti-gravity springs don’t sit in grooves and just rely on friction with the bore to keep them in place. When you replace them they need to sit at a depth of around 4mm into the hole.

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...retention1.jpg

Phil

Excellent suggestion. Wish I had thought of that! I was being careful with the cardboard and folded it over twice (4 layers). But yeah, not levering against the surface would have been much better!

I did notice those circlips holding the springs in place were not in a groove. Was kinda odd. Appreciate the tip on the 4mm spacing for when I put them back together again!

I did manage to get those grommets out with a little more patience and dedication using my pick tool! Here they are along with a few other pieces I removed. In hindsight (reading further ahead in the 5HP24 repair manual), I probably would have been better of not removing the detent spring seen in the picture below as it will now need to be re-aligned during re-assembly, which looks to be a bit of a pain from reading section 1.4.9 of the manual, possibly requiring 2 special tools. :(

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_34.JPG

With the grommets removed, I stood the transmission on its end with the transfer case bolts resting on some 6x6 blocks that allow the output shaft to drop between them. I then removed the bolts holding the bell housing the the main housing. There are 6 bolts that you don't want to undo yet as they hold the intermediate plate in place.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_35.JPG

So here's the bell housing/intermediate plate along with tower II which contains clutches A and B I believe.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_36.JPG

So here's looking down at tower I which is removed next. Before removing it, there's a snap ring that comes off pretty easy with needle nose pliers and a screwdriver

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_37.JPG

There's still more stuff down there. Some planetary gears and such. :D

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_39.JPG

So after the planetary gears are removed, the parking lock gear is revealed.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_40.JPG

Next the transmission is flipped over and the output assembly is removed from the housing. This reveals 12 counter sunk bolts which can now be removed.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_41.JPG

Unfortunately I managed to strip the last one (figures), so I'll need to drill it out before the housing will be completely void of guts.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_42.JPG

So here's everything that was removed laid out in the order it was removed from right to left. There are 4 roller bearings visible which I have labeled 1 - 4.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_43.JPG

Close up of bearing 1.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_44.JPG

Close up of bearing 2. Rollers looks pretty shot.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_45.JPG

Close up of bearing 3.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_46.JPG

Close up of bearing 4.

http://www.cstone.net/~dk/x5_5_17_47.JPG

Next up is cleaning the shop floor. Taking the transmission apart made a terrible mess. I should have planned better and anticipated all that spilled oil as I was taken the housing apart.

Wow!

You are brave!

Foolish/brave -- such a fine line... :rofl:

Why did you take the transmission apart? Was there a problem with it? Obviously, with the way bearing #2 looked, it wasn't a bad thing.

BTW: for drilling out bolts, there's nothing like left handed drill bits and a good extractor set. I have a Mac Tools set (P/N: MEX35) Scored it off ebay.

I also succombed to your Snappy torque wrench porn and bought an atech2fr100a 1/4 torque wrench w/angle torque capability. I don't think my wife is going to let me view this thread anymore...:D