CV Shaft Reinstall
 

Hi folks, back again with another question.

Following the tierod, balljoint and brakes replacement on driver's side a few days ago, I am now on to the same work on the passenger side. In addition, I am also replacing the CV shaft on passenger side. Things have gone really good on the disassembly. I have everything apart and the knuckle entirely removed so I can get the new CV shaft lined up as straight as possible for the reinstall.

Now for the problem, because there has to be a problem, right? :rolleyes:

I can't seem to get the new shaft to seat. The old one was a bit of bear to get out, but it eventually came free. I have the new one in and I can feel that the splines are aligned (plus if I try to rotate it a little the rest of the driveline moves with it). But from there I can't get it go in any further. I wore myself out trying to push it in using just my hands and eventually worked my way up putting the old nut on the end of the new shaft, compressing the shaft and then smacking it on the end (old nut) with a 2 lb hammer. I've given it several good whacks and can't seem to get it to budge.

Any thoughts? Do I just need to keep at it and hit it harder until it finally gets past the circlip? I hate beating on these things too much, but not sure what else to do.

Appreciate any input. Thanks.

Did you compare the old shaft and the new shaft? Are they identical?

You're trying to get the CV joint back on the axle stub, or trying to seat the CV axle itself back into the hub?

Maybe this video would help:

BMW Half Shaft CV Boot Repair, Replacement - YouTube

Yes, I did compare them side-by-side and they are identical.




No, I am reinstalling the entire CV shaft and I am currently trying to get the inboard end seated back into the differential.

If you watch this video (starting around 13:50) you see the method I am using to try to get it seated, except I cannot get it to budge. I guess maybe I just need to hit it harder.

How to change CV Joint on BMW Car - YouTube

There's a circlip that you may need to put a little grease to center it so it will compress enough for the axle to seat.

Thanks for the tips.

I did have the splines and circlip greased up in my prior attempts and I felt like I was hitting it plenty hard to get it in there, but as it turns out I just needed to hit it harder.

I still had the old cv shaft, so I took the circlip off the old one and installed it just to be sure there wasn't some other problem - it went it just fine. I didn't want to take the circlip off the new one and risk deforming it too much, so I tried this on the old one (having already determined they were identical). Also, the circlips appeared to be the same diameter.

I finally got it to go in but I had to enlist the assistance of a helper to get it done. I had the knuckle removed, so I could get it lined up fairly straight (strut shaft was in the way a little, but I rotated it and pushed it to the side). While I held the cv shaft straight and kept it compressed, my helper gave a few good solid whacks with a 10 lb seldge hammer. It could probably be done with something smaller, but my 2 lb hammer wasn't getting the job done and the 10 lb was the next size up for me.

Also, when hitting the shaft, we had the old 36mm nut on the outboard end of the shaft, so as to not screw up the new shaft. The nut deformed a little, but came right off when we were done.

I've installed other cv shaft before - this is the hardest I have had to smack one to get it to seat in the differential. :rolleyes:

Thanks, guys.

Did you go with OEM or aftermarket ? I have to do mine in a week errrr.


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I installed a remanufactured unit that I would guess was probably aftermarket (Are the BMW ones stamped? I didn't look close enough to know.)- I paid $58 for it from one of the parts stores. I suppose a lot of people wouldn't install a reman, but my X is just about 200K miles so I decided to go with a reman over just replacing the boot.

FYI - getting the outboard splined end into the wheel hub was just as much as a PITA as getting the inboard end into the differential. I've done others before and never had so much trouble getting the new unit in. I don't know what others' experiences have been, maybe I just got lucky.

Good luck. Happy to give you feedback if you get stuck somewhere in the process. If you need to replace the whole shaft, now is probably the time to replace balljoints/control arms/tie rods/etc if any of those compenents are worn.

Its a well detailed bear of a process to get the axles in and out, and its not easy. I should know, I did my front wheel bearings this past summer along with the outer CV boots.

If you installed a reman axle I'd venture to say it was probably decent quality as long as the boots and grease are good, most reman axles are made from BMW OE cores. Its the "new axles" for $60 that are Chinese aftermarket stuff, I'm not a big fan. I caught my tear in the boots way early so not a drop of grease spilled out, and I replaced the boots preventatively.

This is the tool I made per the Bimmerforums post which worked amazing at pulling the hub back in, all you need is about 15 mins with an angle grinder, a little bit of welding skill, a new 36mm 12 pt axle nut, and a 27mm impact socket from harbor freight ($3)

If you don't want to tap the new Axle with a hammer as shown in the DIY, there is a much easier tool to make.

- Notice that when the axle barely engages the hub, the outer end of the axle is flushed with the hub in your picture. The "Smooth part" of the Axle is about 6-7mm in width.

- Now notice the anatomy of the Axle Nut:
* Smooth Part = 7mm
* 12-Point Part = 6mm
* Washer Part = 2mm

- During install, I reversed the new 36-mm nut but it barely caught the threads on the axle.

- BTW, the Special BMW tool (PN 33 2 110)costs some $300 from BMW dealer, not worth it IMHO for something you may (or may not) need every 10 years.

- So here is a ghetto tool that everyone should try for cheap:
* New 36-mm Nut: $6-10 at dealer (I guess you can use the old nut, just break off the "staked parts")
* Spark Plug (or appropriate size) Socket: $2-3
* Take it to muffler shop and ask them to weld them together as shown. This probably costs you some $10 (or free if your buddy has welding equipment).
* Bring it home and use a Bench Grinder to reduce the "12-Point" Part of the Nut so it has the same (or a bit thicker) diameter than the "Smooth Part" of the nut. This is essential so the tool can slide in the hub.
* Now you have a tool that can reach 13mm inward, plenty to catch the first few threads.


Sounds good? Someone should try this and report back the result:


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/att...hmentid=292360



I did it this way and did no hammering on my hub whatsoever on reinstallation, or removal as I used a hub puller to press the axle stub inwards.
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...hmentid=292626

If you didn't have the special tool for drawing back the cv spline into the hub that is probably why it was a PITA to get back in.

Sometime it just pay to bring it in.