What's the secret to getting the snap-ring back into the CV assembly? I am having a hell of a time with it......

I've tried slipping a hose-clamp over it to squeeze it - then hopefully push it out of the way a but that's not working either. Any other ideas???


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That's what I did basically. Used a small hose clamp to squeeze it and it worked ok.

Also, I know it sounds weird but place the c-clip in the channel with the open ends facing out (rounded edge is down in the groove). It's the opposite of what you think you should do but it works, if the rounded side is already in the groove it slips in easier.

And again like I said rotate the axle when hammering it back on again too, when you hit the sweet spot of compressing the clip it only takes a few whacks

Turns out I just needed a beer!

It's going back together now. Need to recheck these torque values - what I have just seems insane....

The full procedure says - 185 foot pounds for the 22mm nut/bolt on the bottom of the struts - then 332 foot pounds for the new axle nut?


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.....and we're done! About 4 hours start to finish for me. That's with a couple-hang-ups and some head scratching time. Not bad for not knowing what you're doing...

The bottom shock bolt and nut gave me some problems - and the inner/little boot clamp didn't bite enough and was loose - it must have been set-up on the wrong notch. I busted it trying to reuse it. I ended-up using a stainless-steel zip-tie type thing. I think it'll be fine.

One extra-part. I assume this is supposed to be under the new axle nut? - (but it didn't seem to fit right) It was just a bit too tight for the splined shaft. I don't recall one being under there in the first-place.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/28/e9egegub.jpg


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Actually dont know what that's from, definitely not under the axle nut though.

As far as the ear clamps, a zip tie is not going to cut it, but the good news is if you need new clamps you can get what you have on there now off, and crimp new clamps on in about 5 mins. Be sure to burp the air out of the boot too!

I noticed with the ear clamps I had to set them up on the notch that was almost too tight, and then when I clamped it down it was perfect, definitely fiddled for a while on that though.

I did a cv joint boot replacement on my old Audi and a similar concave/convex washer was located on the axle after the boot was fitted and before the cv joint was installed back on the axle shaft.

Here's a link to the boot replacement for an Audi and on 7:30 you can see the installation of the washer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZSNU4ODZNg