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first time inspection with repairs
I took my newly bought 2004 x5 4.4 for an oil change at a German car guy. I put 5w30 liqui-moly full synthetic. While at it, he did an inspection and showed me some things.
1) leaking transmission, said it was a plug housing. Quoted me to change that valvetronic plug housing, pan gasket and filter while Ian at it. 2.7 hrs@$90 an hr. Came up to $444. He said you have to use the same oil back. 2) front passenger cvs boot another 2.7 hrs came to like $350 or so 3) back frame bushings. One is not good, said you might have to change all 4 $90 each at 7.5 hrs. Around a $1000. What do you guys think is priority? I really want to do the transmission because Ian not sure how much oil went drained. The transmission shifts smooth right now. And what do u think of prices. This is in canada |
:iagree: Get the transmission issue fixed first before it becomes a bigger problem.
I wouldn't wait long to do the CVS boot depending on how much it is leaking. I assume you mean sub frame bushings. They have to be really bad to be able to tell if sub frame bushing is bad without tearing it done. If bad you will often hear a clunk going over something like a speed bump. If the bushings have around 100,000 miles on them they are due but I don't consider the job as something that must be done immediately based on your question. Can't help on prices, not in Canada. |
How many miles on the vehicle?
I for one would replace the transmission oil with new Lifetime 6 oil. Go to The CTSC - ZF Parts and make sure your transmission takes Lifetime 6, but I'm pretty sure it does. There's a special fill procedure (can be found here by searching). You're right, transmission is the first priority. If it is an outer boot, he's a bit high in my opinion. There's a 30 minute DIY on this site. If it is the inner boot, then it may be fair. 2nd priority fix. Subframe bushings are a pain to do without the right tools. By the estimate there, I am not sure he has the right tools, though I don't know how much the bushings cost. I think I could easily do it in 7.5 hours with the right tools. There's a DIY on here where they put in powerflex bushings instead of stock. 3rd priority. Might be worth a second opinion just to see if the prices are fair if you have another european car specialist near you. |
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He said those back bushings are a lot of work. I looked a little bit at the diy for the cv boot. I think it's a bit much for me for now. |
I have replaced subframe bushings. There are several how to's and I have also seen a youtube video. I wouldn't even think of tackling that job without the special tool.
If the rest of the front and rear suspension has the same miles as the sub frame bushings they should be checked thoroughly when the sub frame bushings are done. |
Agree on the order; you might also consider taking it over the bridge for a second opinion at a Detroit 'burbs indy shop, and search this and other bimmer sites for recs - particularly with the bushings and pricing on the cv boot.
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One to consider, in Waterford? MI, is Steve's European Auto. I bought a Mercedes SLK [lovely roadster, since sold] from a guy in the Detroit burbs who got good service from this shop, worth checking out.
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I called a few shops to get some pricing, they seems to be on par other than the dealer being double on the parts at least.
One question though is that my original guy wants to filter the oil and reuse it. He said that's bmw recommendation. Another guy says to use new oil because it's contaminated. what is right way? I mean if my transmission is leaking some oil and the guy needs to use the same oil, shouldn't he have to top it off after with new oil. |
Your question goes to a recurring theme: whether or not to replace the filter and drain, when bmw claims its a 'lifetime' fill. That is what some might call a self-fulfilling prophecy. Having dealt with auto tranny fluid follies in Ford trucks, mercedes, and read about them to advise my SinL when helping him locate an E53 X5, I'm firmly in the drain/replace filter camp - which will replace maybe half? of the ATF with minty-fresh ATF. Ask a dozen knowledgeable BMW tranny guys, not slaves to the BMW 'school' solution, and I bet you get 4 answers each way, and 2 guys each saying (1) leave the leak alone or (2) do a comprehensive drain and replace to get most all the old ATF out.
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