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That looks like one or more rear suspension links worn as already mentioned (I would guess some of the upper links). I would also check rear subframe mount bushings. |
"same issue"...I like that.
My car has 4 tires, and a motor. Everyone has this same 'issue'...can you help? :) But seriously, you WANT some negative camber. You also want MINIMUM toe. You want mild camber, midrange is nice..AND you want it symmetric, roughly the same on both sides. But minimum toe- dont listen to lazy, stupid dealers (and others) who claim "handling will suffer' or other nonsense. |
^Listen to him. He's the one who advised me to straighten the toe-in to save the rear tires. I'm glad I did.
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Mine looks like yours!! Some of my friends have already asked me if my rear axle is in good shape, because with two people in the back the rear camber is indeed a weird to look at!
I will have it checked. |
Mine looked like that and I had them dial out some negative camber... they were at -2.9 and are now in around -1.5 on both sides. I wanted them to bring it in further but they wanted it to stay within manufacturer's specs.
Anyway, the tires on some of these things are way too expensive to run around with that much negative camber. Handling be damned... I don't plan on tracking this thing. |
Like others have said, some negative camber is normal and by itself won't hurt the tires or anything else, but the thing to watch for is tire wear. If the inside of your tires start to wear, that means your toe is out of spec, and it'll chew through tires like nobody's business. Mine went through a pair of $250 Continentals in less than a year; cords were showing on the inside of both of them. I replaced a bunch of rear end components that were probably original, had it aligned, and it's all good. But it still has a bit of negative camber. No big deal.
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Toe outside of specs will wear tires much faster than too much negative camber but the greater the negative camber combined with a conservative driver the more negative camber will contribute to tire wear as well.
I think using the minimum spec but within the range of specs that will contribute to less tire wear is very reasonable. Settings out of spec are going to negatively impact driving and handling characteristics. Potential downsides you may dislike more than improved tire wear with an out of spec alignment are things like darting around the lane, more difficult to drive in the rain or less predictable around a corner. |
I agree with setting correct toe. All of my BMWs have visible negative camber from the rear but all of my tires wear even.
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Mine has same thing. And I get alignment frequently from Sear through best Hunter Machine. We eliminated its the rear arm the big piece which im not gng to replace it anytime soon. Lol. But advice is change the arms 3pc. Ball joints, upper arms, lower arms, http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/09/03/ubedysav.jpg
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