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Mike, here are my thoughts - sorry if I repeat what other members suggested (I didn't read through the answers).

I noticed you have GT1, by the screenshots. Now, go into TIS and see how to replace the air bags (rear). I know I did it a few months ago. BMW is very peculiar about how to remove the air lines and how to re-install them. You said the air bags are new. So my take is that whoever changed the airbags, either over tightened the air lines (TIS mentions 4 Nm if I'm not mistaken, which is very little - and if the nut is over tightened, it might leak) and you might need to replace some parts (minor $$$), or when re-installing them, the air lines were dirty, and the smallest amount of debris will do it. So you need to open the TIS, and inspect the air connections. Inspect thoroughly #15 and #2 in this diagram

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/p/258.png

Concerning the tranny, you might need to change the ATF, but once under the car, check closely the area around the sealing sleeve (item #1 in the diagram). The original ones had orange O-rings, which were prone to leaking - mine did and I had some horrible shifting due to ATF loss over time. The new ones (OE from BMW have different O-rings - they are black and different rubber compound). Once the filter was replaced and new ATF in, I never experienced the issue since. Make sure you use OE ATF.That was a few months back. Also, I would advise in changing the transfer case oil - you have the GT1 and INPA, and it's very easy to perform the reset after the new fluid is in - did it sometime last year (very easy, but the fluid is expen$ive).

http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/r/146.png

Thanks for that detailed post. I did change the rear airbags myself, so it is possible I could have over tightened them. When I was using INPA and I pumped up the bags too high and got them stuck, I loosened the air line I noticed I move it a little and heard air come out. I tried to use some tape on the threads and it seemed to not be loosing air but it still may be leaking.

Also, in part number 1 in the diagram, is that visible outside the transmission or do I have to drop the pan first?

And damn truck struck again this morning. I haven't really driven it the past couple of days but to move it around the driveway, but noticed it was shaking really bad in idle but smoothed out when I gave it gas. I do know that one of driver's engine mount is broken (it is a top priority to get fixed) so I thought that might be the issue and the fact that it is so cold. But I got the flashing check engine light. I ran the codes with a quick scanner because I was in a hurry and got codes P0300, P0304, and P0308. So misfires in cylinders 4 and 8. I will scan it with DIS when I get back. I am hoping I just have two bad coils.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes123 (Post 1016332)

You can see if the sealing sleeve is leaking just by crawling under the car - it's in the back, pass side corner of the tranny and up.

Concerning the misfires, you said you owned a few BMW's before. So do I (I still have them). I know 100% that for the inlines, when the car wasn't run for a while, and if it'sparked in a cold environment, you can get the misfires, and then the CEL lights up. Then, you turn off the engine and re-start, and the car acts like nothing ever happened. It might have something to do with engine management, and it cuts off fuel supply, then once the engine is re-started, and the cylinders are bit warmer, they don't act anymore. Weird but true. Maybe the v8's have something similar going...Never happened to my X

I recently had to rebuild my 5spd zf trans, I did the removal and reinstall myself. Pretty easy if you have done this sort of work before, nothing out of the normal.
Took me about 4 hours to take it out and about 4 back in, drinking beer and not rushing. Costs were $1200 for parts and fluid (all zf factory parts and fluid, seal kit, steels and friction disks) torque converter was expensive at $700 and I payed a local shop $900 to perform the overhaul. Hope this gives u a little insight

I've called ZF (they have a US office - Connecticut I think) asking about the tranny for a 4.4i. The guy said list was $3600 but almost instantly offered it for $3k. That's with the torque converter and filled with factory fluid. They require a rebuild able core be returned.

Not such a bad deal. Mine has been behaving (knock on wood) since a fluid/filter change.

Quote:

Originally Posted by David.X5 (Post 1016507)

Did they say new or rebuilt? Either way that's not crazy money. How do you make sure the computer and the version of the software are correct?

If you are doing it yourself, I had good luck buying stuff from the California Transmission Supply Company. They carry the Lifetime 6 fluid you'll need, plus the parts you'll want. Buy an extra drain and fill plug. That way you'll have a spare if your existing one is buggered up (like mine was). They are cheap and so nice to have vs. needing one and not having it.

That was rebuilt by ZF... I don't think you can get new ones from anyone - I am pretty sure the $7k (tranny+TC) dealer units are rebuilt also.

I was happy to hear this, too, - I am not looking forward to such an expense, but at least I know that I don't have to worry about the cost of the tranny causing me to junk the car.

I didn't do it in the end, as the filter&fluid change solved my problems, so I don't know how they deal with the different versions and computers, etc.

I just looked up the phone number I saved. My memory wasn't exactly correct - I spoke to a US based "ZF authorized distributor". They did not answer email. They were helpful on the phone.

Eriksson Industries, division of Wentworth Engineering Inc.
146 B Elm Street
Old Saybrook, CT 06475
800-388-4418
860-395-0047 Fax
[email protected]

My CPO replacement transmission was a rebuilt one.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes123 (Post 1015996)

So recently I bought an 05 4.8is a couple of months ago to replace my e39 M5 since my boys are growing and working from home the only driving I do is hauling kids around. I have always loved the look of the is versions and was hoping it would still feel sporty enough so I wouldn't miss the M5 as much. Anyways I found one on craigslist, it only had 80k miles on it and the owner had an extended warranty on it and had recently had a valve job done performed at BMW of Nashville. Also had new rear tires and one of the front air shocks replaced. Plus it was imola on alcantara which is sort of rare. Whoever had it before must have been into modding (the guy I bought it from was in his 50's and wasn't into that), which most of it was distasteful in my eyes, chrome surrounds around the lights, ebay door lock pins, and metal light up door sills. But I looked past that and was hoping it would be reliable which was my biggest fear after spending some time on these forums before and knowing some expensive items that can go wrong. And that is coming from someone who has owned 4 M cars in a row (I had 3 different e46 M3's before the M5).

So based on my research here, these items were the most common and were usually quite expensive. And here is what I have experienced in the last 2 months of ownership.

-Leaky Valves: Thankfully that was taking care of before I bought it and I hope it will not be an issue in the future.

-Panoramic Sunroof: I had the sunroof on tilt one day and the second portion got stuck and prevented it from operating. I removed the two screws to disable the 2nd portion and so far it is working now. But I still get a loud popping noise when I open it so I am worried something else might break.

-Air Suspension: I noticed that the rear passenger side sit lower than the driver's rear and it appeared to be losing a little air overnight. So as cheap as rear bags are I decided to replace them. It still sat lower on the passenger side after I replaced them, but I had just received the Romania software from eBay and tried to even it out via INPA. At first I started adjusting the wrong side by accident, and then when I tried to pump up the passenger side somehow I got it stuck up too high. I had to let air out of the lines for it to move again. I then switched to DIS which I thought is easier to use and I got the ride height evened out and then lowered it at the same time. HOWEVER, it is still leaking on passenger rear where I can barely stick my finger between the fender and tire if I let it sit for more than 24 hours. So either I have a faulty bag, or I have a leak somewhere else. :( (Could I have damaged something by pumping too much air?)

Transmission: I always felt like the transmission was strange when I first got it, it normal driving it shifts so early, but if you put it in sport in makes the shift too hard (almost feels like my SMG transmission did in one of my M3's). I understands it adapts to your driving style and when I would go out and have some "fun" there were times where it shifted so hard if felt like something broke. Well this past Friday I was driving normal and between 3rd and 4th there was a long delay in the shift accompanied by a sound I can best describe as a belt slipping. It did this 3 or 4 times that night followed by the dreaded Trans failsafe message right before I got home. I looked it up in DIS but all I could find in the error was "shift too hard between 3rd and 4th." Next day the message was not there and I have driven it several times since then (not very long distances) and did not experience it again. Until last night, lol. I had some back and forth errands to run and it drove fine, but then I decided to put it in sport on the way home and right before I turned into my subdivision it slipped again between 3rd and 4th. No error message though. So it appears the issue only happens after the tranny fluid is warmed up and when you drive more aggressively.

Ok long post, and excuse my rant, just feel like I have the worst luck that I have 3 out 4 issues on a relatively low mileage example, one that I had thoroughly checked over before I bought it.

Cliffs if you don't want to read
-Rear air suspension is leaking air over night (mostly passenger side) even after air bags were changed. Where else should I be looking for the leak?

-After transmission is warmed up and driven remotely aggressively, shifts between 3rd and 4th are hard, and/or delayed accompanied by a noise in between. Do you think I should go ahead and change the filter and fluid to see if it helps or is it a lost cause? Could the valve body cause this issue? And what does an average rebuild cost? Don't feel like going to BMW and dropping half what I paid for it.

Thanks for any help. Not very happy with the X5 now, even though I still love the way it looks and drives for the most part, and is definitely a better fit for the family needs.

No warranty on the car?You mentioned something about extended warranty.