01 X5 3.0 Alternator
 

How can I tell which Alternator I have with out removing it. Its impossible to read anything off it as its pretty buried. I need to drive the car every day so I'd like to avoid removing it and replacing it just to order one...thanks

Plug your VIN into Welcome to realoem.com |bmw parts | bmw parts catalog| bmw epc! and it will give you the model number you need.

Virtually all M52 and M54 engines, no matter if it comes from factory as Valeo or Bosch, will use a Bosch AL0703N type.
N is new
X is rebuilt.


Due to terrible rebuild quality, I recommend Bosch AL0703N.

Take off the intake and look at the tag with a flash light. Mine was the Valeo. I just replaced the alt in my wife's x5 in 2 hours yesterday.

Like what cn90 said, all 3L e53 can be fitted with Bosch. Doesn't matter if your current one is Valeo.

I would go with Bosch over Valeo, just for the sake of price. lol

Just my 2 cents

My 2004 X5 3.0 have a genuine bmw valeo 140amp alternator. It's my choice to go with an OE.

I have no doubt that the bosch alternator will fit
- but please make sure to get the same amp rated alternator (if what you have installed is 120amp versus 140amp)
- like cn90 said buy the "NEW" not the re manufactured.
- check where the alternator was made/assembled (stay away from china and mexico)

LOL,

The AL0703N is brand new made in Mexico. Very good unit.
The fact that it was made in Mexico does not mean it is bad.
It was made under strict supervision by Bosch mfg process.


Time for Enchilada, Salsa made in Mexico...lol...

PS: I agree Chinese-built alternators are not even 10 cents.

IIRC you will have either a Valeo 140amp or Bosch 120amp in there.

And IIRC if your X has heated seats you will most probably have the Valeo 140amp.

My own X has a Valeo 140amp.

I got 10$ for copper value at metal recycler 2 months ago.

Hope OP got this resolved. It's not a terrible project.

Alternator
 

Got it replaced. Thanks all for the posts!

Which did you have, and what did you replace it with?

Couple questions for those who replaced the alternator:

1. For those with Valeo 140A alternator, when did the bearing fail? Is it around 130k or 180K?

2. Did anyone install a Bosch AL0703N 120A into a car that came with Valeo 140A? Any issues with it?

I had a Valeo 140A alternator and it failed completely at 91k miles but 13 years of age - Left me stranded and needed a power pack to limp it to the dealership over the summer - not sure if it was the bearing that failed or the voltage regulator but it was dead as a doornail -

So in my opinion not as much about mileage but age -

Mine also failed at 13 years of age, but with 123K miles. Luckily I was only about 10miles from home and was able to limp home without being stranded - but that 10miles ride was the longest ride of my life :rofl:

^^LOL - oh man I turned on the OBC Test 9 and was driving to the dealer with everything else off and just watching that voltage DROPPING was so nerve racking - I think I made it 11 miles (I was an hour from my house, down the shore) and got a mile from the dealer and it died as I coasted into parking lot of Bed Bath and Beyond -

Then the local tow service gave me a booster pack on the battery terminals so I could start and limp it the last mile -

Man that was a nerve racking experience I was so proud of her that she made it as far as she did - it was also 105 degrees in Jersey that day (isn't that always the case with these situations?)

^^I guess we can have a good laugh about it now after the fact. I was sweating bullets staring at my radar detector, which happens to have a voltmeter readout. Was sitting in traffic during rush hour - Watching the voltage drop further and further was so nerve racking! Had to turned every that I can think of OFF. Only had the headlights on. At one point, I was contemplating whether I should turn the headlights OFF as well.

My Bosch alter failed at 135k miles on my e46. Well, the Voltage regulator is what failed. No weird noises coming from it so my bearings are fine. The rotor looked great as well so I only replaced the VR. I had been using my Bluetooth adapter to monitor things saw it producing just 12 volts. The eventually it only produced 11.5, and then 11.00.

After seeing that cn90 and old skewel having rebuilt their OE parts, I will be going that way for all alts in the future.

It was a bad month for me with alts with both the 545i and the 330xi failing on me in the same month.

At least it wasn't a starter. Just replaced one of those in my E46. Not fun.

I replaced the brush and voltage regulator assembly on our 3.0i X at 150k. It has the Valeo alternator. The brushes were worn down to nothing and would not have made it much longer. The bearings felt good. I hope it last another 100k.

Sorry if wrong to bump old thread up.

But From what I'm seeing the only way to know for sure regardless of year or motor is to visually inspect the sticker on the ALT?

I think mine is going or already gone on a 04' X5 3.0i
It does have heated seats too.

Can I install the bosch 140amp even if it does happen to have the 120 bosch or valeo? I noticed the plug type is different when comparing the 120 to the 140?

Quick response here ...

I've got a 2001 3.0i. They used Bosch and Valeo, apparently interchangeably back then (at least for mine). Looking up on realOEM will give you an answer, but it might not be right. I think mine said I had Bosch, but I do not. Mine is Valeo.

So yes, if you really want to know, you need a mirror, flashlight, camera, or whatever it takes. You CAN see it without removing the alternator.

I would not count on being able to swap in an alternator with a different plug. I don't know.

The Bosch vs. Valeo for my year can be swapped as a WHOLE unit. But, for example, the Valeo voltage regulator is not interchangeable with the Bosch VR. Also, the Pulleys are different between the two.

So if you have a Valeo and buy a new (or rebuilt, or used, etc.) Bosch, you will not be able to use the Valeo pulley on the Bosch alternator. The pulleys have different diameters, meaning the alternators spin at different speeds, and it's all fine as long as you stick with your original unit, or swapping in an entire different unit.

1+,

- Pulley is not swappable between Bosch vs Valeo. However, whole unit is fine for either Bosch or Valeo.

- rhino...how many miles on your car?

- Best is to buy EXACTLY what you have in the car now. Re 140A vs 120A, it has to do the winter weather package, heated seat etc. Technically speaking you can install 120A in a 140A car as long as you don't overload it from electrical standpoint.

- Search rmeuropean, eeuroparts, FCP Groton and ebay for Valeo, which can be had for $310 or so. Given that quality of alternators at local stores is so bad (lucky if you got a good one!), go with Bosch or Valeo.
Search ebay for "Valeo 12317551253", which is the 140A type.

It has about 153K on it. Just did a big cooling system refresh. And shortly after now getting tranny and brake errors and vehicle needs to be jumped. Battery was just replaced in November.
It does have the cold weather package, and heated seats.
I have gotten most of my replacement parts from ECS Tuning and Rockauto thus far

I would swap the whole unit, but don't see the harm if I did have the 120a, wouldn't be the 140 be a nice upgrade?

I'll check out those parts #'s. And I would stick with bosch or maybe even valeo too

Thanks! Next day it isn't raining or snowing, I will see if I can find the sticker without having to dissasembling too much

Couple things...

1. No need to remove anything, get flash light and mirror and look down.
You should be able to spot the make and model number of the alternator.

2. During installation of the new alternator, the BOTTOM bolt is tricky. You need to line it up, use a smaller bolt or small screwdriver and wiggle it so the alternator mounting hole lines up with the bracket. This will allow you to insert the BOTTOM bolt in. Otherwise, it can be very frustrating.

I did the CCV Overhaul and during the process, removed the alternator, you can see detail in the DIY I wrote a while back...

- If you have not replaced the OFH Gasket, then do it now as evertyhing is exposed. Gasket is $6 at dealer, do not use aftermarket gasket.


https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-overhaul.html

Thanks for the tips!

I just looked at service records again. Battery was replaced NOV 2017
and the ALT was done by an INDY shop in JAN 2015
Connections still seem good. Tension on pully seems fine


I might just do that ofh gasket while I"m back in there lol. Just got the cooling system back together a few days ago. Yay to undo some of it again

Speaking of CCV while alt and OFH is off, seems like a good time to do that as well. However with cost and issues from my research seems like I might wanna lean more towards the bypass method and go with a catch-can?

- Oh, re CCV...do not the factory way.

- Instead, search forum for "BavarianE39 CCV Mod", it costs only $30 using some hoses and plumbing adapters and it will reduce oil consumption to zero.

I'm 4 pages into baviaran's post about the CCV bypass.
Not sure what the remaining pages have to say yet, but I still am leaning towards a catch can, or someway leading tube back to oil dipstick..

However back on track (sorry for blowing up this thread)
Looking at service records (again) and noticed the alternator was replaced by an indy shop with a reman.

So now I'm wondering if the indy even replaced with same make/model in a reman. Or am I just gonna have to do some guess work?

If I'm guessn I would rather just stick with a 140amp since I do have the cold weather pack and heated seats...

I retrofitted heated seats on my 3.0i, and also added a substantial sound system, I am thinking it would be worth it to upgrade to the 140a alternator.

FWIW...

The friend's 2004 X3 has 155K, the factory was Bosch.
Replaced with Valeo (made in Poland), perfect fit.

Couple things:

1. Bosch and Valeo are interchangeable.

2. Don't swap Pulleys (the pulleys are NOT interchangeable), use the pulley that come with the alternator.

3. The electrical connector from the car shows only 1 pin. The Bosch alternator has 2 pins, Valeo has 1 pin. But it does not matter, it works perfectly.

4. The Valeo installation is MUCH easier, the Valeo does not have the bottom bolt tightness issue. Recall that the Bosch bottom attachment is very difficult to align simply because it is a tight fit. The Valeo just slides right in, very easy.

Check the price, if Valeo is cheaper, then use Valeo.

FWIW...

The friend's 2004 X3 M54 engine has 155K, the factory was Bosch.
Replaced with Valeo (made in Poland), perfect fit.

Couple things:

1. Bosch and Valeo are interchangeable.

2. Don't swap Pulleys (the pulleys are NOT interchangeable), use the pulley that come with the alternator.

3. The electrical connector from the car shows only 1 pin. The Bosch alternator has 2 pins, Valeo has 1 pin. But it does not matter, it works perfectly.

4. The Valeo installation is MUCH easier, the Valeo does not have the bottom bolt tightness issue. Recall that the Bosch bottom attachment is very difficult to align simply because it is a tight fit. The Valeo just slides right in, very easy.

Check the price, if Valeo is cheaper, then use Valeo.

I successfully rebuilt my alternator on E39 so wanted to do the same thing on E53. Took it out and it's a remanufactured unit, so I don't know if it's bosch or valeo unit.
Rockauto only has 120 and 90 amp units.
Realoem has both valeo and bosch 120 units, with valeo having been discontinued. The 140amp is also listed.
I do have heated seats so ideally I'd like to use the 140 amp. Can anyone confirm that 140amp will fit without issues and is interchangeable with 120amp units?
https://i.ibb.co/f4PW0W6/Screenshot-...258-Chrome.jpg

I was told by the seller, rebuild kit for 140amp alternator

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARK134-NE...wAAOSwB0hcYv4M

And I guess this one for 120 amp
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ARK114-NE...8AAOSwPOhaXJnY

The seller on ebay seemed confused