The AC connections have O-rings. Easy to replace when putting it back together.

I don't know where you are in Maryland, but if it's not too far I can help you recover the refrigerant if needed.

David, thx! Good to know they are easy to reconnect.

I will go ahead and disconnect the radiator and the connections to the compressor. Seems easier to leave the compressor on the motor and just take off the lines.

IIRC, you came out to my place in Bethesda once when I was hospitalized last year and I dropped by to give you some hub decals a few weeks later....a little help recovering the refridgerant might be useful. I guess I still have a few hours of work to go before I need to disconnect the AC.

When would it suit you to do this?

I remember now. Happy to help out. I can find time most weekends. PM when you're ready. Recovery takes 5 minutes or so - the X only holds a pound of refrigerant.

All done. Many thanks David.

Got the wires of the front of the engine going to the starter and the oil level sensor (break out the HD hand cleaner!)

Next is to get the fuel rail off and the wiring boxes. Then on to the wiring of the transmission and the rear drive shaft.

No need to change the guides unless they have deteriorated and started to show accumulation in the oil pan of the vehicle. My Wagon had guide changes performed at 165K. There are plenty examples of the M62 engine getting timing chain guide replacements at over 200K miles. If the oil was changed regularly and with a good quality oil then a owner should expect to get high 100K to low 200K miles of service before guides have to be changed.

That may be but my engine is starting to leak oil all over the place and once I have it out it seems logical to get the guides done and the vanos refreshed.

Finally getting back to this.

Got the cable support off the back of the block,it is held on by a small 6mm bolt and holds the harness going to the transmission. I also removed the RH brake and disconnected the swaybar end link. Notable are the four wire connections that need to come off: the ABS sensor, the ride height sensor, the ground strap and the AC clutch. Still have to get the driver's side brake off.

I have decided to disconnect the struts from the hub carriers. The calipers will be zip tied to the front springs.

Pics later. :-)

Wow you are definitely taking your time on this (one year later:thumbup:)

Updated with couple of pics
 

A very, very BIG house project got in the way. (5000 sqft to finish, just down to flooring and trim now) In addition, there was the college search and applications for my son.....

Hoping to get this done by year end now.

I got the driver's side brake off and the end link disconnected. Last two items to do before releasing the sub-frame are the steering shaft and the shift cable.

Below is a pic of the dolly I intend to lower the drive train on to. I don't have a lift so this will have to do. The longest transverse 2x4 will support the hub-carriers so no undue strain is placed on the suspension bushings. Once the whole assembly is out I intend to remove the engine and do the lower gaskets.

Maybe I should replace the steering rack?

Motor is lowered about 6" but to pull it out it looks like the ac compressor will need to be removed. The assembly is too wide to pass the flanges on the front of the frame rails.