What engine oil do you use in your gas E70?
 

First off, oil threads, for some reason, can go sour quickly... so let's try to keep this one positive. :thumbup: Remember to keep in mind that (most) of us are not petroleum/chemical engineers and there is a lot we don't know.

Things to include in your post:

1. Which engine do you have and mileage
2. Typical climate your E70 operates in (temperatures, etc.)
3. Oil brand and specific type (a link to the oil webpage or PDF technical data sheet would be great as well)
4. Oil filter brand
5. Typical oil change interval
6. List any additives used
7. And a brief note about why you chose said oil/filter/additive would be great

Remember, this is for gas engines only. For you diesel folks, feel free to copy this post and create a diesel specific thread.

I think this thread could be a great reference thread for those who would like to start performing there own oil changes.

1. N62TU 4.8i with 77k miles
2. Pacific Northwest climate. Winters low 20s to 50s. Summers low 60s to 90s
3. Liqui-Moly Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40
4. Mann oil filter
5. Prior owners were 5-6k OCI, I plan to do 6,500.
6. BG "MOA" additive

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...SR248,320_.jpg

German oil for a German engine right? kidding. But this oil carries all of the certifications I was looking for, and has solid NOACK and flash point figures for the price. It has great reviews as well. As for the additive, BG MOA has amazing reviews from all over and has proven results. The prior owners used it, and the engine is as clean as a whistle inside and dead-quiet. I don't see any reason to change that.

Have been using BMW oil, but I will be switching to European formula Mobil 1 0-40.

Just and FYI, 0W-40 no longer carries LL-01 approval. The new formula is thinner than the original, and uses a different base-stock (GTL versus VISOM). It is still great oil, however.

1. N62TUB48
2. -5C - +30C (approx)
3. liqui moly 5W-30 (LL04)
4. mann oem replacement filter
5. change when due (we drive fairly conservatively)
6. no additives
7. i get a good deal, a friend of mine manages an auto parts store

Thanks. LL-04 is a low/mid SAPS oil, which removes some anti-wear and detergent additives for the sake of increasing the DPF filter's life. Since you're not a diesel, maybe consider one of Liqui-Moly's LL-01 oils?

My comments below:

1. Typical climate your E70 operates in (temperatures, etc.) - Washington, DC Metro area 0F - 100F with LOTS of traffic with stop and go driving. Very hard on any vehicle. Run hours are higher than mileage typically. Average MPH per tank is usually only around 18-22. NOTE, this is MPH not MPG!
2. Oil brand and specific type (a link to the oil webpage or PDF technical data sheet would be great as well) - Castrol 5W40 which has the BMW LL-01 Approval on the bottle, or at least it did last time I purchased it. Like anything the Approvals come and go depending on a lot of factors. I am not 100% hung on on BMW LL-01 oil in my vehicle because I do not believe or subscribe to the 15k mile OCI. In fact in my E46 I have reprogrammed the OCI reminder from 15k miles to 7500 miles.
3. Oil filter brand - Mann brand filter usually from the dealer or online
4. Typical oil change interval - About 10k miles, do not believe in the 15k mile BMW interval
5. List any additives used - None. Occasionally on other cars add a can of SeaFoam or STP Multipurpose Motor Treatment about 250 miles before oil changes. This helps keep the crankcase clean.
6. And a brief note about why you chose said oil/filter/additive would be great -

I do not get all wrapped up around the axle on BMW LL-01 Approvals. Some folks might. Once any vehicle is beyond the Warranty, the specified oil may or may not make much of a difference. I do not extend my oil changes to the max mileage and I am not racing or tracking my vehicle, it is a daily driver. My attitude is any good quality synthetic oil that is clean and not contaminated is more than adequate for the majority of vehicles on the road.


I do not want hear about sheer numbers and all the other oil related specs, few people care or understand. Also the folks that preach all of the petroleum specs never explain them because either they do not understand them or they think they are so much smarter than everyone else. I frequent another forum where one member continually tells people they are using the wrong oil. Funny how the engines have not immediately seized on all of these vehicles. Just because and oil does not meet some spec, does not mean it will cause catastrophic problems with an engine. The API standards that were recommended for the E70 are usually exceeded by most of today's current synthetic oils unless you are buying the cheap, not synthetic oil from the Dollar Store.



Clean and uncontaminated oil is the import part of any engine longevity. You cannot always rely on mileage to determine if the oil is clean. SO MANY people drive there cars in severe situations where the oil will not come up to temperature and cook off water and fuel in the crankcase. This is often due to short drives, severe low temperatures and also soft failing cooling system thermostats. Also keep in mind the 9 quart oil sump in the V8 takes about 3 times longer than the engine to come up to temperature, so in the very coldest parts of the years, this may mean up to 30 minutes of driving which many people do not do on a per trip basis.

I almost always change my oil in late Fall, regardless of actual mileage on the oil. This way I start out the Winter months with a fresh oil change so hopefully I can get through the Winter without severely contaminated engine oil. I also monitor the engine oil color when checking the oil as my E70 still has a dipstick, but I understand dipsticks are going the way of the dinosaur these days.


Not here to have a discussion, just stating my position and reason that I do what I do. Choose to take some or none of what I have to offer, but my approach has worked well for me over the years and I have never had an oil related engine failure.



Each person does things differently. This is how I operate.


As they say, YMMV.

Thanks for the comments. I am in the same boat as you when it comes to OCI. I have seen so many BMW engines sludged up because the owners blindly follow BMW's destructive maintenance schedule. 15k OCIs? "Lifetime" fluids? It really grinds my gears!

Tomorrow I will be giving a giant middle-finger to BMW's maintenance schedule and doing the transmission, t-case, and differential fluids :-)

What engine oil do you use in your gas E70?
 

Funny, I thought I had everything ready for these and was planning on doing exactly the same thing this weekend. Then I realized I didn't have an IR thermometer. It's on it's way now.

Back to oil, I am at almost 81k miles, my OCI is 7500, no additives here. I use Hengst filter which I believe is OEM. I am close to Houston, and my commute is 80% highway.

I didn't know Mobil 1 0w-40 didn't have the LL-01 approval any more, but the last time I checked it still had the numbers matching (viscosity, HTHS, etc.) Besides I can almost always find it on Amazon or local Walmart for about $25 for the 5 qt. jug.

Do you have the software to reset the adaptions for the transfer case when you change the fluid?

What fluid are you going to use in the transfer case?

I don't, but a local German shop does by my work. I'll take it there on Monday.

And I'm using the expensive BMW transfer case fluid. TF 0870. FCP Euro seems to have the best price on it.

Just wanted to make sure you were aware and prepared for the transfer case software issue when the fluid was changed and were also aware of the crazy fluid for the transfer case.

Sounds like you are in good shape. Hope things work out well. Give an update on your impression after the fluid is changed and if you feel any difference.

1. N52K
2. -10F to 90F
3. Castrol Edge 0W40
4. Mann filter
5. 7-7,500 miles (annually)
6. no additives
7. Walmart -$25.xx/5qts

I found this earlier post stating that nothing needs to be reset after TC fluid change. Apparently ATC700 no longer requires it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...er-case-2.html

Well I did the transmission (2 pan drops, ZF pan/filter, Pentosin ATF1), t-case (BMW TF 0870), and differentials (Redline 75W110) this weekend. I had to make a couple 14mm hex tools to complete the job, but so far so good. Transmission definitely shifts smoother. The shop that did the mechatronic sleeve gasket before I owned the car refilled it with Redline D6... so I was anxious to get that out.

I am taking it in Wednesday to get the transfer case adaptations reset, as well as a transmission reprogram.

Long 14mm hex key for front differential. There is an oil-line that runs right in front of the fill plug, so a 14mm hex-key socket was too wide.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%2037%20AM.jpg

Shallow 14mm hex key for t-case drain plug (it's right behind the cross-member). This one is ugly because it used to be a bolt with a nut welded at the end (double 14mm hex... one end goes in plug, other end you can use a 14mm boxed end wrench). I had to weld on a wrench because I couldn't slip the boxed end wrench over the end... too close to the crossmember.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...%2057%20AM.jpg

Here's my 2 cents. I have been using synthetic oil over twenty yrs, racing motocross and auto cross. Synthetic oil is the best choice. Many will argue about Royal Purple and all the other premium brands are so much better. Keep this in mind. I own my X5, with the N55 engine. Free BMW 15000k oil changes don't work for me because I don't want to wait that long. My oil is changed every 7500 miles with Castrol euro oil and Mahle filter. Living in South Florida, engine temps are quite high, taking its toll on breaking down oil and coolant.
I was also told by a certified BMW mechanic that long intervals between oil changes cause VANOS issues, yet BMW won't talk about it. For that reason I won't wait every 15000 miles. If leasing, I wouldn't worry about it. Just remember to keep those awful riding runflast within BMW specs on lease return.
Again this is my opinion, by information provided to me by professionals.
Lastly I plan on keeping my X5 till it's at least 10 years old. The extra $100 per year is worth the cost. Oil does break down and 7500 miles is my max on all my cars, regardless of what is said. Some people will want to argue over this.

I am sorry this was suppose to post on motor oil intervals.

Agree 100%. BMW's maintenance schedule is designed to keep you in a new BMW.

N62TU 4.8i with 110k miles

so cal coastal weather. temps range from high 30s to 90s

Rotella synthetic 5w-40

Mann or mahle oil filter

ALL factory recommended drain interval

don't need no stinking additives....until the valve seals go!



I've been using rotella for a long time. 4.4 X5 from 60k to 170k and now the 4.8 since end of free service.

no sludge. you have to make sure crank case is vented and oil separator not clogged so moisture has a chance to evaporate

this vehicle has plenty other things for me to worry about!

Lol I'll post my improvisations once I complete the job. I was aware of the need for a stubby 14mm hex bit for the TC fill plug, so I knocked one out of a regular hex key socket. The long one for the front fill plug is news to me. I will see if I can stick the short bit into something and make it work that way. The 4.8i with the dynamic drive et al. will never make it easy it seems :D

Agree with Entropy, that LL04 isn't a good idea. BMW issued a tech bulletin years ago advising not to use LL04 oils in North America, due to our fuels. Those oils simply break down too early. If you insist, just make sure you change it much more often than you would an non-LL04 oil. Or buy your fuel in Europe.

What engine oil do you use in your gas E70?
 

You can just remove a couple of bolts for the brackets on the oil lines around the subframe by the front diff and it will give you enough room to use a regular long 3/8 socket extension bar with an allen ext. I didn't have any issues. You will be going straight thru from the wheel well side, will need to remove couple of the smaller plastic covers for better access as well.

Also, you will never regret purchasing a set of these if you don't already have something similar

http://www.amazon.com/WC100-Metric-Wrench-Connectors-6-Piece/dp/B007QV5WG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462251879&sr= 1-1&keywords=ez+red+Wrench+connection+metric

I did remove those two bolts, but it was still a tight fit (that's what she said). Also removed the plastic covers from the wheel well.

I ended up using my 14mm hex bit with a box end wrench guided into the fill plug from the wheel well with the help of an extension. I'm getting one of these for next time:

http://thumbs2.picclick.com/d/l400/p...14-Hexagon.jpg

This is the stubby hex bit set I have, worked just fine with my 3/8 extension. I got it cheaper at Northern Tool but seems like they don't carry it anymore.

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Stubby-I...bby+hex+socket

Am I the only one that goes tot he dealership and pays my $90 and have them do it for me every 7000 miles? Its synthetic oil and they use the BMW filter. It seems more cost effective for me to do it there then spend 75 plus shipping and then deal with changing it and disposing of the oil.

N52 3.0 l
North Shore, Illinois
Highway Driving Mostly

That seems like a really good price. I'd probably do the same if I were you. For me with the 4.8i though (and living in Portland), I'd probably be looking at double that... I mean the thing holds 9 qts! Luckily, the E70 is a really simple oil change, and my garbage service takes the oil if I put it by the curb.

If I had a 3.0 it'd have cost me ~$40, plus the cost of beer I'd be having while waiting for it to drain :D

The last couple of times my mechanic used Wolf Synthetic 5w-30. I had some work done that required an oil change. (Weeping oil pan) I will be changing mine every 5000 miles. I have read and seen pic's about the sludge issue with longer intervals. When I first bought "Helga", I changed the oil and put in a bit of Kreen to make sure her innards were clean. Then after that, nothing but Castrol or Wolf. I like Rotella T6. Used it in my Audi and it was great. Going to switch over to that or Castrol exclusively.

:beerchug::beerchug:

How in the hell do you do that? Especially with 7 quarts of oil?

:thumbup:DIY. Cost of the oil and a filter.

You buy three 5 lt. Mobil 1 0-40W from Walmart = 3 x $22 = ~$75 with tax.
Oil filter is about $8-10 from online stores. Get two of those with some other stuff that you probably need to qualify for free shipping.

Total cost for two oil changes = ~$95, still not $40 but less than $50 for one oil change.

Gotcha, thanks. I haven't set foot in or near a Walmart in over a decade. Hence my shock.

Same price on Amazon. Sometimes even cheaper. They deliver to your door in two days for free if you have Amazon prime.

I got a warning to add 1 qt of oil. I added Castrol synthetic 5w-30