I couldnt tell if you had connected the both connectors to the valve and then got the code, or you had left the NC connection off... I thought the latter, which would lead to the open.

Did you check the fuse in the diagram? (or if easier verify 12V at the red wire on both)

So just a few minutes ago I measured 3.5V on the red wires while running. HMM. I'll try to check the fuse now. Fuse 18? Hard to tell for sure. Let's see..

Ard - I owe you a beer! :thumbup:

Fuse 18 was blown. I didn't even see it on the diagram until you pointed it out! It was a 7.5A fuse in the "fuel" category on the fuse layout. This one was in the front fuse box under the glovebox. Hopefully it got damaged during reassembly when something shorted out. Can't wait to test drive it tomorrow after getting a replacement!

Sweet. ;)

Hi all,

So this project is just about wrapped up! I'd been having intermittent errors indicating something wrong with the fuel/air ratio, so my immediate thought was "boost leak." I dealt with a 30FF underboss fault on my N54 engine, so I'm somewhat familiar with chasing down boost leaks. The faults I was getting were 2774, 2C57, 2906, 2BC1, etc.

So, using a Home Depot 2" to 3" rubber coupling, 2" PVC endcap, and air fitting, I rigged up a quick pressure tester. Sure enough, I heard air rushing out near the bottom of the intercooler and felt around until I figured out the rubber flex hose had come dislodged and popped out. I reseated it, but it's possible the retaining features have become damaged or the C-clamp has become deformed. If it happens again I'll have to inspect the mating faces and see what's gone wrong.

After reinstalling the hose that had popped out, I needed to reinstall the plastic undertray. It had been torn up in one corner from some kind of impact, so this was a good time to repair it using safety wire. I'm not exactly a pro at this technique, so go easy on me! :D It came out OK though.

In other news, the steering wheel wasn't quite horizontal while driving straight on the freeway. That was an easy fix by adjusting each tie rod the same amount until the car drove straight again.

Another minor project I did was to remove water spots on the windshield. They wouldn't come out with simple Windex, so I used McGuire's water spot remover on a cheap Black and Decker orbital buffer. It took probably 15 minutes and the glass came out perfect. I may have to do the other windows now that I've seen how well it works!

I love this thread.

My dad used to fix busted ATV fenders by drilling a bunch of tiny holes on each side of the crack and then "sewing" it up with some fine-ish nylon twine, then covering the seam with clear silicon.

I bet where visibility doesnt matter you could use something like PL polyurethane (In the caulking section at lowes/homedepot) over the seam or something else that would hold up much better than silicone.

Will you be considering selling it afterwards? 😂


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This car is officially for sale!! If anyone is interested in buying, PM me. The truck is in Reno, Nevada. Mileage 78,000 (5k on rebuild.) I'm asking $18,800!

Is it completely fixed and code-free?

Absolutely! The only issue I ran into during my ownership was a failed clockspring, which showed itself as an airbag light. That was solved by replacing the clockspring, documented here: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...placement.html

Additionally, in case anyone is interested in more detailed photos: Autotrader link