Can I say I like to see pictures without gloves...bareback as it were.

:yikes:

Sometimes I get gloves on for dirty, beefy suspension work (fabric/leather).. or for a messy fluid change(latex/nitrile)... but most of the time I just cannot work with them.

Can I also say that many years ago I was part of a start up medical device company- we had a full machine shop. From 6PM to 6AM I had full run. Good times. ;)

Ha, I echo your thoughts on gloves. If I'm working on something slightly dirty, I usually opt for fabric/rubber gloves. It helps me apply more force to tools with less pain, and protects my knuckles from scratches. Engine reassembly is literally the only time I'd work without gloves, since things are generally pretty clean (if they're not I need to scrub more!)

Today I performed the N55 timing procedure, using the timing tool borrowed from bimmertoolrental.com. This is the second time I've rented from them. I'm pleased with their shipping speed, but the tool is somewhat bent and clearly has been used hard. I wish they would replace it.

I also tested the starter motor. The previous owner mentioned it had been smoking due to trying to run after the engine seized. I discovered that when 12V was applied, it didn't spin at all. Only the gear extended. After opening it up, the inside smelled like burned electronics and there was black liquid running out. I assume that was melted wire insulation. I tested each coil with a multimeter and found the wires had lost their isolation; so the core is shot. Fortunately I was able to order a new one on eBay for $60.

Nice job on the motor and great job documenting it. It may take a while; but, one day this thread will be a big help for someone.


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Well, today was the day! I reinstalled the engine on Saturday, and on Sunday reinstalled the transfer case, electronics, intake manifold, power steering and A/C, radiators, front bumper, and drive axles. More posts to follow about the transfer case install, but for now I'll share this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ql6CsCPH3_U

One issue is I have an airbag light, and indicator stating the passenger side airbag has an error. From a few minutes of googling it seem like I need to read/clear the code with INPA. It may have been caused by a low battery condition.

Next time if I have a major issue with my E70, I'll know where I will go. Man, you know what you do!


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Well done. It's a great feeling to start a new motor.

Drive it and enjoy it.


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Welp, I ran into an issue on the way home from celebratory burritos. :( Pulling into a parking space, I cut the wheel hard to the left. I then heard a "pop", followed by clicking. The front driver's side drive axle appears to have separated.

I had the truck towed home to reduce further damage. It's possible that I can rebuild the CV joint and not incur any costs. I'm still not sure why this happened, but I'm excited to learn about the internals of a CV joint!

It is confusing for most folks(me too), but it actually says "Fault in passenger restraint system" and it means the restrain system for all passengers in the vehicle(including driver) and not "Passenger side restraint system" :yikes:
Good job on the repair and congrats on the resurrected engine :thumbup: There is a chance that you pulled the axle too much when removing it and it was almost fallen apart when you installed it. Should be able to put it back together.

I've been thinking more about it and I think you're exactly right. You can even see on the first page of this thread, the boot on the shorter (driver's side) has a kink in it that I simply couldn't remove. I think this indicates a vacuum was generated when I over-extended the joint.

So hopefully it didn't get too beaten up during the towing process and I can reassemble it. I drove probably 150 feet total.

Getting back to engine installation, I wanted to share my procedure because it improved greatly from the first time.

This time around, I used a much better method of installing the engine and transfer case. I did not unbolt the subframe at all! Fortunately there is enough space above the transmission in the frame cavity that by lifting the engine/transmission high enough, you can clear the power steering rack.

After the engine was installed and bolted to the bellhousing/transmission, I went about installing the front transfer case. I looped a zip tie through the rear output disk and through the front upper bolt hole. Then I looped a ratchet strap through those zip ties and lifted the entire assembly with the engine crane. Then I slowly and carefully maneuvered it into place singlehandedly. :cool: Since the engine crane was in-use, I lifted the engine below the oil pan using a floor jack.

The final pic is of the BMW getting towed him after the drive axle failure. :(