It does look like the stretch belt for the AC is a 3.0 thing. If you have adaptive drive or 4 zone climate options, you have the second belt for just the AC compressor. No tensioner for the AC belt.
You certainly have a full plate with the E38. I save my work for winter, but then I need a small heater some days to keep the garage comfortable. I want to add a front lip and also the sunroof gasket this next winter.

The A/C belt is just for the A/C, but yes, there is a tensioner just for it too. Watch that video linked in earlier in this thread and you'll see the 4.8 tensioner setup. Pretty simple setup, but not as simple as on the 4.4 in the E38.

I try to save for fall through spring, but this past period we had a lot of rain and it just gets to stagnate to work with the door closed all the time. If I don't have it closed the rain starts coming in the garage and that's not much fun either. Plus, my 2 car garage is just large enough (barely) for the two cars and to have about 1.5 feet on the sides to work. But not deep enough to work under the hood with the door closed. I back the E38 in because there's not much room in the back of the garage either. Maybe a foot or so, but then I have nowhere for my tool chest. Wish I still had my garage from when I lived in TX 11 years ago. 3 car and a good 5 feet in front and back. The garage was 27' deep. Plus when all three bays had a car in them, I still had 3 feet or more in between and 5 feet to the wall on each side.

Had I stayed there I was going to put in a lift as I also had 15-foot ceilings. Damn, I miss that house. LOL

Okay gents, need some help! I've got a new compressor but decided it was worth a $15 investment to see if I can change the bearing as mentioned earlier in this post. So watched the video a few times and got at it.

Found that the fan isn't too difficult to remove because on the driver's side of the fan when you unclip the retainer it will fold back on a hinge upon the fan shroud completely. Then you basically just lift it up.

Since I had to cut off the belt, I've done most everything from up top. even removed all four of the bolts from the clutch assembly. Easy peasy! As I was removing the clutch the ball bearings started dropping, bad sign. The entire bearing failed 100%.

So now on to my problem. It inner portion of the bearing is still on the shaft while the outer is still in the clutch. NOTHING to grab onto to pull it off of either part. I'm a bit concerned using a Dremel to try to cut the pieces off as I don't want to damage the inner race or the shaft.

Any suggestions on taking them out? My vice grips aren't strong enough to grab and pull off the race from the shaft.

Is there a snap ring holding inner race in place?
Here's what I'd try......
Penetrating oil on joint, large channel locks (Knipex) on inner race, attempt to twist while prying on jaws.
Should be a groove in inner race. Put hose clamp in groove, tighten, push/pull/pry hose clamp.
Lightly heat inner race w/propane torch

Snap ring removed (basically destroyed removing it as it was stuck on) fortunately.

I'll try the channel locks oil and heat without lighting it on fire.

Well, that didn't work. Only have a propane torch or heat gun and neither could get it hot enough to budge. No room to really get anything in there to pry the race off.

Went to the Dremel, cut into the shaft, but it's stationary so it should be OK. Can't get the one out of the pulley though. Got another pulley on it's way so see if that works without issue and if not, I'll put on the new compressor. If it works, than the compressor will be returned.

Do you have a link to the bearing and install video? I think I am having the same issue. My noise also is coming from the lower passenger area and persists with the AC on or off.

Page 1, post #5 of this thread.

I'm blind lol. Thanks.