Xoutpost.com - Water Pump Replacement

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Quote:

Originally Posted by ard (Post 1118527)

Is there a 'sport' button immediately behind your gear shift? If yes, then you have AD

Then I don’t have AD.

I was just reading your posts back in 2014 about the same question. I laughed at X% that your brought up :)

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/#/topics/796783?page=1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118524)

Several dealers sell parts on eBay. A dealer out of New Jersey was considerably lower through their eBay storefront.

I often start my parts search on eBay with good results.

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If a job is a monster, i use oe (or genuine BMW ) parts, as it is cheaper to do it once!

But if it’s as easy as pie and part is no crucial for car performance, then meh.. i use whatever.

I guess for wp tstat i will stick to known names.

There are loads of no name water pumps on ebay for cheap! If it was easy to replace the wp, I’d do that.

I’ve found s pierburg wp on ebay too. I might get that one.

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Quote:

There are loads of no name water pumps on ebay for cheap! If it was easy to replace the wp, I’d do that.

Brings up a thought... observation?...musing?

Are there REALLY loads of different no-name water pumps?

Or is it that there are 4 or 5 brands:

1. OE (BMW branded but made by the OEM)
2. OEM
3. A well known BMW vendor that makes a pump but isnt the OEM for this part (Dont know who this is, pierburg?)
4. One cheap no-name (asian?) brand that is sold widely under various names...ebay... etc

The #4 thing makes it seem like there are MANY versions...

but I just wonder if there is enough of a market for this part for multiple companies to make custom molds, custom tools, etc,etc.

Dunno, just wondering

I had my wp and thermo replaced at the dealer two weeks ago. Service rep quoted me $1900 out of pocket. I have a warranty so I wasn't paying that. lol
An independant shop would probably be half that. Same price for parts most likely but way less for labor.

Water Pump Replacement

Quote:

Originally Posted by ard (Post 1118537)

Can be one company, can be multiple. Depends on net profit, and the market demands, which I assume both are relatively high ! Especially if the maker is in Asian countries, the net profit is golden!

So you suggest not going with Pierburg? It is a German made WP mostly sold as a cooling service kit on ECS or Pelican parts or FCP euro. Runs about $80-90 less than BMW WP.

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Well got a quote from an independent today. Roughly $1200 out the door.

The dilemma, try and tackle on my own and save roughly $700 or just bite the bullet and pay to get it done.

While there is not a complete guide there are a couple threads that give decent enough how to information that I think I can do it.

Several previous repairs that I have done would include some of the disassembly that I would need to do. For example I replaced the washer pumps by removing inner fenders, replaced starter motor just two weeks ago which required moving a bunch of stuff. I also replaced the radiator and expansion tank along with all belts and hoses. Not that it's relevant here, but I also replaced the oil filter housing gasket and the valve cover gasket among other repairs.

Man, been through a lot with this truck.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118606)

Same here, did VCG, OFH, OC gaskets, Tranny,...... .

Although it is relatively simple, it requires removing some heavy parts. What limits my ability to perform this job is that I don't have enough room in my parking, which is a shared parking.

I would definitely have done it myself if I had my own garage.

Many owners have an Indy or dealer perform the job. Reason? probably it's a monster to deal with!

Going to youtube to see if I see some good DIY...

Start on Friday night, dismantle the big parts, reach the point, leave the rest for Saturday morning. By Saturday noon you will have saved $700! now that's a good chunk of money to spend on a vacation!

Here it is: I found a DIY well written up by lt_texan on this forum here.

I put it together in one PDF file and attached it here as it was posted in multiple posts by him. Credit goes to lt_texan

Posted here.

The attached PDF has all the pictures and step by step details.

Edit: Cannot attach a PDF file larger than 781KB!!!
Edit: PDF uploaded on Bimmerfest forum, linked here

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Quote:

Originally Posted by lt_texan (Post 876114)

Okay,

Step 1 - Raise the truck
Jack using the front centre jacking point
Support with jack stands at the two front tire changing jacking points.

Step 2 - Drain "lifetime" coolant.
Remove belly pan. Or whatever the BMW vernacular for it is ;)
Remove engine brace plate. Disposable aluminum bolts? No blue paint, but they sure look the part.
Remove reservoir cap.
Unscrew blue plug bottom left of radiator, let dangle.
Catch a bunch of coolant in a strategically placed pan.
Remove the inlet water hose on the water pump (it's under the a/c compressor pointing to the rear). I got the clamp off with a 1/4 drive 6mm ratchet.
Try to catch some coolant with your (now safely emptied) pan.
Clean up the unbelievable mess with lots of cheap kitty litter.

Step 3 - remove electric fan assembly
Remove the two bolts on each side of the brace.
Unsnap the hood release cable from the 3(?) clamps on the brace.
Work the left side of the brace up and move to the left so that the right side clears the a/c hoses, then lift the right side and slide out to the right.
Unplug the electrical connector on the right side of the shroud.
Press in the lock on one side (you can see how the one by the plug works as it is not hidden by the rad hose like the right hand side one).
Lift each side enough to clear it out of the lock.
The "ear" on the left of the shroud folds back and into the shroud so it clears the radiator hose.
Lift/work the fan assembly out.

Step 4 - remove thermostat assembly
(This is where my BMW service manual has no documentation, so it might be hit or miss until I get there.)
Loosen the t-stat end of the water pump inlet hose and remove (6mm wrench accessed from the rear after to other unsuccessful tries from the bottom front and attacking from above.)
Release holds from the radiator to t-stat housing and remove - a little working back and forth and then they slide off.
Unplug the t-stat housing power connection and move out of the way.

That's where I am now. Really wanted the water pump and t-stat housing to be on the garage floor today, but then I messed around yesterday and most of today trying to get the service manual to spit out the procedure.

Next step, I'll remove the other hoses on the t-stat housing and then it looks like two smaller screws hold the t-stat housing to the water pump. Hopefully this will get the t-stat out of the way so I can access the upper water pump bolt.

Oh well.

There is also a pretty decent YouTube video which shows the procedures along with the fact that the pump and t stat can be removed through the passenger wheel well.

I will try and link that video as it seems quite useful.

But the bullet and ordered parts last night.

I will post my experience.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by golf4dj (Post 1118663)

Great!
Please do post the link here. And also your experience too!

I will be tackling the job myself too! I mean all i have to remove is a wheel and in worst case scenario, the radiator. Easy!
Also I used a drill powered pump to remove the coolant from the lines.

You can use such a device too. Make the lines dry to avoid mess!!

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