Darn!!!! That is heart breaking !!


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Can any 4.8 block from e60 e65 or 7 series fit?

Washington just seriously underestimated work necessary and seriously underbudget.

So, when my crank became difficult to turn, it was likely due to hydrology.

I know exactly when the overheat occurred. I was taking my daughter to visit Bucknell U. And I had to put a gallon of coolant back in due to a leaky water heater valve. I never got an overheat error so I thought it was ok. That was summer 2017.

That engine kept going until Jan 2018 when I noticed smoke from tailpipe after drive thru. I thought it was valve seals but it is a cracked cylinder #1.

I don't think valve seals leak in winter unless they are terrible. So, if you got smoke from tail in winter watch out for the cracked block!!!

Next up.

Pull engine and begin disassembly to transfer to new block.

This will be much easier with engine out of car.

Stay tuned

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Wow, that really sucks.

With the money and effort already put into the heads I don't see much choice other than to keep moving forward.

I would be looking for a reasonable mileage short block to forgoe the trouble of redoing the bottom end.

That's really bad news.

You do see complete (relatively low mileage - 60k,) used motors for sale under $4k, which I would guess would be cheaper than a new block and a set of rings from BMW. Save you a LOT of work and some cost, (gaskets, bolts etc.) on reassembly.

I guess you could find a used shortblock, but that might be really tough to find. I'd still hone it and put in new rings if you find one.

That's what I would do but I've heard so few bottom end problems I would not mess with it. Swap your freshened up heads and water coolant pipe and put that in.

Part out the old block and heads from new engine to recoup some money

It doesn't look like BMW sells a bare block. A "block with pistons" is $5,300 from ECS. (list is over $7k). Not sure whether the block with pistons is a full short block, or if it's just what it says.

Thanks guys!

After my current experience, I'm leery of Used engine and engine running good and cracked cylinder.

But Sounds like a plan!!

These engines are not known for lower end failures.

Also, most junkyards offer some sort of limited guarantee on their engines. You can certainly do a leakdown test before installing the motor once you have it. You could possibly do a compression test if you could rig the starter. If the junkyard still has it in a car, all the better; you can hear it run. I doubt most yards would let you do any tests on the motor, but you could ask. If I had access to an engine in a car, I'd be happy with a good compression test, and one of those coolant tests that can determine if combustion gasses are in the coolant.

I wouldn't swap heads if you get a motor with 60k miles. You could drive it for several years before having to do the valve seals, and you may have parted ways with the car before that point.

I'll probably do oil seals, coolant pipe, oil transfer gasket, valve covers, rms, and rear coolant cover because it's out of car.

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