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  #1  
Old 02-05-2018, 10:50 AM
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What PSI should the cylinder be for valve stem seal replacement?

Morning everyone!!

Started the valvestem seal replace as I had too much oil getting past the valve cover gaskets so it was just time to do it.

What is the recommended cylinder PSI for valve stem seal replacement?

Thanks
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:01 PM
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No idea how you are doing this.... there is a procedure based on what tooling system you might be using...different tooling may have different specs...
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:52 PM
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I think he's asking about the pressure for the leakdown tester to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder when its spring is removed.

I don't know what the recommended pressure is, but I recall it being enough pressure to hold the valve in place but not so much pressure to cause the engine to turn over.
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightlyToasted View Post
I think he's asking about the pressure for the leakdown tester to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder when its spring is removed.

I don't know what the recommended pressure is, but I recall it being enough pressure to hold the valve in place but not so much pressure to cause the engine to turn over.
I think about 40lbs is good. But if you're using the AGA kit, it comes with a tool to lock the timing chain to avoid the piston being forced down.
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Old 02-09-2018, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LightlyToasted View Post
I think he's asking about the pressure for the leakdown tester to keep the valve from falling into the cylinder when its spring is removed.

I don't know what the recommended pressure is, but I recall it being enough pressure to hold the valve in place but not so much pressure to cause the engine to turn over.


Thank you!!

Slowly doing this crazy job one valve at a time one day at a time. Hope to back on the road in a month. But the rear ones are looking super tough.
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Old 02-11-2018, 01:13 AM
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I think 20-30psi did it for me.

it took me 5 weeks.
and I dropped an exhaust valve in the cylinder.

managed to retrieve it without pulling the head
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Old 02-11-2018, 12:52 PM
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A "safer" way of preventing valve drop is to get a cheap inspection camera and put the piston of the cylinder you're working on at tdc. Or, another old hot rodder trick is to fill the cylinder with string down the spark plug hole.
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Old 02-11-2018, 05:48 PM
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I'm surprised no one has come up with some sort of flexible hose with a balloon permanently attached to the end that would be inserted via the spark plug hole.
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byM5 View Post


Thank you!!

Slowly doing this crazy job one valve at a time one day at a time. Hope to back on the road in a month. But the rear ones are looking super tough.
I just finished this job last week...I took almost 2 months as I was fixing a bunch of cooling system issues, as well (plus was sick for a week)! Anyways, the two rear intake valves closest to the firewall were saved for last as they were a PAIN. I'm 6'-2" and about 225lbs, so was absolute torture on my body trying to get those last 2. I had to lay on top of the engine to get a view of the valve since the cam position sensor cradle obscures the view almost entirely. In the end, I was able to get them done (took about an hour for each of those last two), but no more embarrassing smoke at stoplights or sitting in DC traffic!
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jmitro View Post
I think 20-30psi did it for me.

it took me 5 weeks.
and I dropped an exhaust valve in the cylinder.

managed to retrieve it without pulling the head
Sorry.

I decided to go against the norms and do all exhaust and then all intake one bank at a time.
The switching back and forth was making me nervous.

I thought developing a repetitive motion would be better for the first timer.
I felt quicker and more confident repeating the same task vs switching back and forth between intake and exhaust to complete one cylinder at a time. It's not that hard to rotate the crankshaft! I got 6 exhaust done in 4hrs.
I also modified a long flat head screwdriver so that the intake spring arm could be easily controlled and guided back onto the valvetronic roller on top of the lifter.
I don't know if all my terms are correct, so feel free to rename them.

Those darn valve keepers are pain to get on!! I think that is the hardest part!!

So, I have things at 80psi.
All exhaust on bank 1 are done!

Next up all intake on bank 1 except cylinder 1 since that was the first one.

Thanks!!
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