Build Log: M57 X5
 

Hi, my name is Evan and I like to modify BMWs.

Here are some of my old and current projects:

Imola Red E39 M5:
https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/ca...ded-clean.html

E39 540iT:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1245562

535xi E61 Touring:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/posts/bm...project-wagon/

The "N54 Powered E61 M5 Wagon" :)
https://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36899


The new addition to the fleet is a 2012 X5 diesel. I am very excited about this as a project since at the heart of this vehicle is the M57 motor which is wildly underappreciated in the US. Offering torque, reliability, and efficiency it's has great attributes for a fun daily driver.

The plans for this is vehicle are fairly conservative relative to my other projects and the plan is to enhance the performance, dynamics, and reliability while not sacrificing anything in exchange. Plans include:

- F85 X5M or F10 M5 brakes
- F10 M5 steering wheel
- JR 2.8 tune and supporting mods
- XHP X Delete and Transmission tune
- Upgraded headlights, fog lights, and reverse light
- Style 612M wheels (done)
- Revised Fitment (taller tires, KW V3 or springs)
- 3rd row delete, rear seat entertainment delete
- Stealth tow hitch.
- Fender flared, M Sport front bumper
- Clear Bra + Tint
- etc. etc. etc. :)


Here are the stock specs:

08/2012
78,XXX
Platinum Grey Metallic over Black
1 owner Southern California vehicle
Premium Package
Sport Package
Comfort Access
Comfort Seats: Heated/Ventilated/Active Driver
Heated Rear Seats + Steering Wheel
Technology Pakcage
Lighting Package
3rd Row + Rear Air Suspension
Rear Seat Entertainment
Soft Close Doors


LET'S GO!!!!

A rare picture of one of my vehicles in stock form...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5h...=w1300-h976-no

Pulling in the garage after driving it home
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iR...=w1300-h976-no

Had some 612M wheels waiting
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yZ...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i1...=w1300-h976-no

Style 335 (19") vs Style 612 (21")
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ee...=w1300-h976-no

Ooooffffph
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eA...=w1300-h976-no

Saving 10-12lbs a corner of unsprung mass and rotational weight, nice!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eu...=w1300-h976-no

Hubs were a little rusty so I hit it with a wire brush and applied some anti-seize.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QU...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fz...=w1300-h976-no

Much better, Day 1 was a success
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zr...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sF...=w1300-h976-no

Interior received an emergency cleaning to remove all the oily/greasy/nasty interior shine the dealership covered everything with.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ei...=w1300-h976-no

Next up was debadging the tailgate and front doors. Heat gun, plstic razor, some "finger grease" and goo gone.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LK...caZQEb=s975-no

Followed up with the DA polisher and some Chemical Guys V36
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fr...=w1300-h976-no

Much better
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V_...=w1300-h976-no

This stupid thing....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fy...=w1300-h976-no

Hope the BMW engineer who thought this was a good way to store the DVD screen was fired....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Le...=w1300-h976-no

Phone cradle delete, will follow up with the OEM delete plate later
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y_...BvN7yT=s975-no

More chrome delete. Exhaust tips were removed, cleaned, scuffed, cleaned, primed, and painted with satin black high temp paint
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QB...=w1300-h976-no

Rear reflectors were also dipped black, don't worry I have some color matched paint on the way and will DIY color match the F/R reflectors
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ac...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GV...=w1300-h976-no

Monochromatic roundals
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WR...JqRl-0=s975-no

Disassembled the kidney grills and dipped the chrome, I like how it came out, the black offers a nice contrast to the titanium slats.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zl...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qg...=w1300-h976-no

Clean as you go
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rg...tzVe-9=s975-no

I had some gloss black vinyl left over from a project so I wrapped the front reflectors, I can't stand amber

Here is a before/after with all the above changes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lm...=w1300-h976-no

After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...=w1300-h976-no

X5 didn't come with a cargo cover but thankfully I found one locally in great condition for a great price
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mm...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/25...=w1300-h976-no

Put the mountain bike racks on
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vj...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lo...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XL...=w1300-h976-no

Backing up X5s info for XHP license
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/I1...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4T...=w1300-h976-no

As a temp solution until I really upgrade the headlights I replaced the stock bulbs with some Osram CBB, not cheap but as you can see they offer much better intensity than the old stock bulbs
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gQ...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mi...=w1300-h976-no

Beautiful e70! Looks fantastic with those wheels! Consider getting the wider factory wheel arches.

Also, friendly public service reminder: please use jackstands, even when just changing a tire....As a ER doc, I cringe when I see a 3 ton car supported only by a hydraulic jack. I've seen some pretty hideous injuries and deaths from this exact scenario.

Good luck with your project. You will love it in the deleted form ;)

Yes, I am considering them as they are on my to do list above ;)

As for stands, I live by the jackstands, trans swaps, engine swaps, drivetrain conversions, all on jack stands and anytime I am under the car 100% supported by stands but in a wheel swap scenario like this I like to live dangerously.

I'll have to take some pics of the tire shops around me. Driving down 8 mile in Detroit there's entire cars up in the air on 3 jacks. Multiple shops roll like that.

I've been considering better headlight bulbs, and haven't looked into hem yet. I had OSRAM in my old TL, and forget what I had in my 335i. What made you choose the OSRAM CCB?

I installed the Philips 85415XV C1 Xtreme Vision and am very happy with them. They're a little warmer at 4800K than some may prefer.

The Osram Xenarc 66144 D1S CBI is another in the very popular and effective CBI line. They're 5500K so blue like everyone seems to want.

If you want the best out there right now, look at the OSRAM Night Breaker Laser.

The CBBs are the latest high output/high kelving rating offering from Osram. They carry an eye watering price tag of ~$250 and I was curious to see how they perform. My go to is the Osram CBI which about 1 year ago can down in price from $140 to $110 so it's a hard to beat value for the performance, reliability, and aesthetics (color) if that matters to you. I am also a huge fan of the Philips WHV2 for a high performing bulb with a white color temp.


Nice recommendations.

Operation "kill all amber" continues with some LED turn signal bulbs
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LP...yP25-y=s975-no

Removed the bumper and the lower splash shields to poke around see what's what. Everything is very clean and no major oil leaks. Very un-BMW
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nW...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w2...=w1300-h976-no

Garage TVs/Monitors FTW
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K8...=w1300-h976-no

Flashed XHP XDelete. I like run this on one of my E61 wagons and really like the refined steering feel. With no servotronic and 285 tires up front the steering is a bit heavy so I am hoping this will help that a bit, it might also improve fuel efficiency.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3W...=w1300-h976-no

With the X5 jacked up an in gear I noticed the front wheels still receiving power, maybe there is enough friction in the TC clutches to transfer this energy, I am curious if this would translate into a parasitic loss while driving around, either way I wasn't about it so I removed the front shaft. Here is a before/after video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfqjirwDjHk


With the bumper off I decided to continue blacking out some items.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lG...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dz...=w1300-h976-no

The small silver romboid around the front cameras was particularly annoying and after exmaining it's texture I wasn't confident paint would adhere well to it so I removed the reflectors and wrapped the complete assembly in gloss black (had it lying around). It looks SO much better IMO.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hv...=w1300-h976-no


My goal was to run the beefiest setup possible. The tires already have enough width so increasing the aspect ratio is next, I am a big fan of running taller tires as it adds more cushion for ride comfort and also help fill the wheel wells. The X5 is in particular need of this but unfortunately the wheel carrier/upper ball joint is in a rather inconvenient location.

Stock Michelin PSSs are 285/35 325/30. I found some 285/45 325/40 Continental 5Ps which are OEM equipment on AMG Mercedes SUVs. I found a front tire on eBay and purchased it to test fit....

Here is the stock 285/45 Michelin
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ey...=w1300-h976-no

285/45 Continental
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lo...=w1300-h976-no

Bummer
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dw...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6H...=w1300-h976-no

In addition to the spindle-tire contact the inner edge of the tires would have rubbed at full lock so this tire size NOT working was for the best but in terms of added tire meat and the juggernaut like aesthetics it would have been exactly what I was shooting for. :(

When the dust settled and the tire was returned I was only out $35 for 2 tire mountings, 1 balancing, and return shipping on the tire so it was a worth while experiment, now I know.

Moving forward I need to decide if I should go with taller but slightly narrower 275/40 315/35 Hankook S1 Nobles (OE Porsche tires) or just stick with the wider but shorter Michelins. For now I might just run the Michelins until they are toast and then revisit options.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/se...=w1300-h976-no
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gq...=w1300-h976-no

To make sure steering feel and lightness was optimized I also flushed the PS fluid with some new CHF11s
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jP...=w1300-h976-no

A couple updated pics, killed many bugs driving out to Lake Havasu, AZ for Easter
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lP...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kL...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7S...=w1298-h975-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e5...=w1300-h976-no

Looking good!

Nice! Very nice so far.
A few questions for you though.
1. How much lighter is the steering wheel with Xdrive delete?
2. Any traction control issue with tires being different ratio?

1. Hard to quantify this but "a little." The difference isn't as drastic as on my 535xi that has servotronic. I also flushed the PS fluid which usually helps a bit so it's hard to decipher which what did what but overall the difference is small but positive.

2. My understanding is the DSC system uses wheel speed variation to detect slip and the threshold for that is ~1% or just above so the rule of thumb is to keep the F/R rolling diameters of the tires <1.0%. My Michelin PSSs have a difference of 0.617% so no worries there.

Thank you! Good to know.:thumbup:

As are yours. I forgot about the OSRAM CBB. The CBH is nice also. I prefer bulbs around 5000K but OSRAM has been able to put out bulbs in the cooler ranges that are still quite bright. That and I think their Kelvin ratings are just numbers at this point.

Testing showed CBH was a bit of a let down CBI had the same lux output and was ~1/2 the price. Osram just rolled out a CBA which is the CBH replacement (they already pulled it from market lol), the price of the CBA is even higher than CBB :/ Haven't seen how it performs.

My go to recommendation is the CBI all things considered but the WHV2 has the best pure white color at 35w IMO. CBI has a tinge of violet and the other CBBs etc. try too hard to be blue. I don't want blue, I want white!

I've used CBI in my Acura TL a few years ago, and did like the output, but thought they were a touch too blue to put maximum light on the road. I might go CBI just for the price, but I'm tempted to do the nightbreaker laser's and see what kind of light they really throw. I sometimes do late night towing, right now just 100 miles, but have a plan for a 2000 mile round trip, and want to be able to see as well as I can at night.

Nice truck OP. I like where this is going.

BTW, I'm still pretty happy with my Night Breakers in my E53. Need to order some for the wife's X35d. Putting it off until I replace the headlights lenses on hers as I think they are past the point of refinishing @ 160,000 miles.

Incredible job, nice attention to detail.
And who knew a single post could hold so many pics!

If you are pulling the lenses then that would be a great time to optimize or upgrade the stock projector. The AFS cradel is a bit of a pain and the "adaptive feature needs to be disabled if you want to fit a better projector, no worries since a high end projector "static" will outperform the stock E46 projector swiveling.
I like photos.

True, but I will only be upgrading the LED rings like I did on my E53. The stock projectors are sufficient for me and the amount of time/money needed to retrofit others doesn't pass the cost/benefit calculation for me. I'll be using the same rings I used on my E53 in the appropriate sizing. Have to wait to open it for the measurements.

Here's the E53.

https://i.postimg.cc/zv3QvJZY/Headlights-60.jpg

So do I. Keep em coming. :thumbup:

I understand I am a bit of a black sheep when it comes to automotive lighting since standards are extremely high but it sounds like you haven't experienced a "legit" headlight setup. Most people consider a Morimoto H1 projector a retrofit and technically it is but not all retrofits are equal. It's like saying a Mustang GT is "fast" when there are Koenigseggs, McClaren P1s, and twin turbo Gallardos.

If I build my E70 headlights prior to your lens swap, perhaps I can inspire you and hopefully change your mind.

This is my E61
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_s...ANstlV=s945-no

You should link you HIDP build. Always loved this build!

FXR's in my E39 made a nice difference but its a bigger task (Budget for install) to do something on my E70 =/

It's possible. That a low/hi beam shot? Pretty. Done morimoto retros and they were okay. I'm satisfied with stock projectors running premium bulbs on the e53 though. Likely will be on the e70 as well. I'll definitely keep an eye on your build though.

BTW, I've been looking for an mtec e61 for a long time for a third vehicle. Prefer 6spd but with only 350 out there I won't hold my breath.

I am going to be putting my Grigio Telesto E61 up on Bring a Trailer next month, open to private part offers to see if I get any "convincing" offers.

I would also consider manual swapping it for the new owner if the financial compensation made sense. I have already manual swapped my white E61 and will be manual swapping the black E39 as well prior to sale.

This is the grey wagon:
https://www.spoolstreet.com/posts/bm...project-wagon/

I get a 404 error from that link, but would definitely be interested in seeing it.

Edit: Never mind, googled it and found it.

Double edit: That looks like it's going to be expensive. PM me the details when you are looking to sell it. The wife likes it but we'll be buying another house in the coming 12-18 months so will depend on when you're letting it go, and for how much. Beautiful build though.

Purchased a used rear upper console trim off ebay to replace the DVD monitor and got a new phone delete plate for the the inner storage (from ECS Tuning).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7g...=w1295-h971-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/q9...=w1295-h971-no

Looks great! I cannot wait to do these mods sometime soon. I can't stand the DVD and phone mount. What are you planning to do for the actual DVD player? Is there a delete plate for that?

The are storage cubbies aka "oddments" pieces which can be installed. You can look them up on realoem

How about a cooler where the entertainment was?


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

I need to do this but not looking forward to removing all the center console pieces =/

Me too, afraid to ask what is involved..

The DVD player is the size of a single DIN unit. You would only be able to keep a 5 hour energy chilled.


Don't be afraid, cars are essentially a bunch of nuts and bolts and with forums, Youtube, and more traditional guides like service manuals there isn't much mystery to it. With some basic tools, common sense, and patience you can get a lot accomplished.

I thought the rear climate might be removed as well. Might hold 10 5 hour energy’s. Or a 6 pack.



Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

Climate control and rear entertainment are 2 completely different systems.

I’m aware. Just adding ideas. Carry on.


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

Putting "the truck" to use....

Shipping wheels
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/11...=w1300-h976-no

Found a $1,200 radiator setup at the salvage yard.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T3...=w1300-h976-no

Transporting a panoramic roof cassette for my E61
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3Y...=w1300-h976-no

License plates arrived. The original hardware was 2 rusty Philips head bolts, I replaced it with some black allen bolts with washers. This will look real clean once the personalized plate arrives.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/KB...=w1300-h976-no

With the X5 debadged this will help enthusiasts know what motor is under the hood, common civilians will have no idea what's going on which is just the way I like it. If you know, you know.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/La...=w1465-h975-no

Adding a wireless charger. What's slick about this setup is the charger is mounted to the ash tray which can easily pop out if needed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6R...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9J...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ep...=w1300-h976-no

Weekend projects:
Transmission service
Cleaned manifold (again)
Swirl flap delete.
I was going to do vacuum lines as well but I will save that for when I do the downpipe.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/el...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zz...=w1300-h976-no

Fluid, pan, mechatronics sleeves, bridge, and connector seal.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uy...=w1300-h976-no

Yummy
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RC...=w1300-h976-no

RealOEM FTW
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t8...=w1300-h976-no

Cleaned the trans support (and other splash panels not pictured).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MN...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wU...=w1300-h976-no

WTF is this sorry excuse of a transfer case bushing? I was surprised to find out the X5M bushing is nearly identical. With all the TQ of the M57 motor and this offset mount only on one side this seems like it would be a good item to reinforce with a solid rubber mount.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ws...=w1300-h976-no

Inspected the transmission wiring connector to confirm pin locations, I will be adding an X5M wheel with paddles and need to run wiring from the wheel all the way to this connector.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ef...=w1300-h976-no

Still have to crack open the filter but magnets looked fine with what I understand as a normal amount of metal powder/paste.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/u7...=w1300-h976-no

New bridge seal and sealing sleeves installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dn...=w1300-h976-no

Patiently waiting for the trans fluid to get up to temp during refill....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SH...=w1300-h976-no

Used a WiFi endoscope to peak down into the valves. All things considered they look great, the only CBU I need to address is on the plastic portion of the valve cover. I will wait to clean that once I have another excuse to pull the cover since it should be and easy task and won't require walnut blasting.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...htSxdw=s975-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vP...eZX7qY=s975-no

Manifold cleaned, power washed, dried w/ compressed air, and reassembled with swirl flap deletes.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/An...=w1300-h976-no

Some quick snaps while running errands. I have a black kidney grill on the way.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ne...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/90...=w1300-h976-no
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1N...=w1300-h976-no

How is yanking the manifold?

Nice work. I still need to do a trans service on the wife's diesel. Question though... does the X5M wheel have a heated version? Her wheel is sport/heated and would be a must to retain.

Wife and I bought an E61 as well. It's nothing special but got it for a song from an owner who didn't want to spend more money on it. Are the E61 interiors wagon specific or does much of it crossover with the sedans?

pretty straight forward

Yes, there is a heated X5M wheel and it's in Nappa leather too which is nice.

Not trying to jack your thread, I think all this stuff is great! That being said, I pulled the diesel manifold off MANY times on my previous 2009. A few things to watch out for are items located in the very back, there is a bolt that you wouldn't think to look for and hook-ups for the swirl flaps and a couple plugs as well, make sure you get those. Other than that, all of the bolts up top are 10mm and captive, make sure you don't lose any of the nuts from the center section; I usually got them loose and then used a magnet to pull them out.

Nice build!

Great build subscribed!

Depo smoked indicators
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P-...mtgKhp=s975-no

With the exterior theme of the X5 getting darker the rear lower valance (Titanium color stock) got Dipped.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dh...=w1300-h976-no


Upgraded the rear sway bar to an Ultra Racing bar, this is the beefiest sway I could find for the E70. This is 24mm compared to my OEM 21mm. Endlinks were also replaced with Meyle HD units.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7V...=w1300-h976-no
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Nav screen and the anti-glare coating has seen better days so I hit it with a 3" DA polisher and some Chem Guys V38
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lm...iWBabO=s975-no

People on FB (apparently those who have never done this mod) were in an uproar saying this was super dumb and they would never do it as the glare would be unbearable.... mmmkay.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8w...=w1300-h976-no

Like a GLOVE.... OEM style 167 M6 wheels fit nicely in the rear.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gE...=w1300-h976-no

Picked up a M Sport steering wheel. I am on the hunt for a clean heated M Sport/X5m wheel but in the meantime I came across this nonheated wheel for a great price so I will run this in the meantime. I also prefer the M sport paddles over the X5M paddles so I can keep these paddles and make a hybrid wheel if I end up with an X5M wheel, which I probably will.

I am always shocked at how careless dismantlers are with parts considering they plan on selling them. This wheel has a tiny little cut up top and a few dents on the left side of the wheel. I have already used a heat gun and some finger massaging to relieve some of the creases and are about 50% better, I will see if I can find a local upholstery shop that can maybe fully release them.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J_...=w1300-h976-no
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Stud Conversion in the works, waiting for spacers and fender flares.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/17...=w1300-h976-no

Very nice build I'm happy to see how it develops! I'm in San Diego too - also with PG E70 X5 (I'll refrain from posting any of my pics in your thread) and also have an E46 M3 but always looking for a nice wagon... great minds.

Did I miss the part where you got your Nav on satellite image, is that just a setting or part of programming?

That is just how my nav was when receiving buying the X5, I am sure it's linked to a software update.

What kind of wagon are you looking for? I have 2 project wagons which will be up for sale soon; an 08 535xi E61 and a 540i E39 which will be manual swapped. Both have tons of maintenance and some tasteful mods done (IMO).

More info on the builds here:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...php?p=12892969
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh....php?t=1245562

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EV...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r9...=w1300-h976-no

Coming from the N54 world one of the aspects of the M57 that gets me really fired up is strength and reliability.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rl...5=w580-h960-no

This is what happened to cylinder #3 on my first N54 motor. Direct injection + port injection + misfire + some extra PI spray = detonation. It was a wild ride when she let go, fire and skidding out of control.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vd...=w1300-h975-no

Oil pan almost blew completely off and there were punctures all over the block
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/N7...=w1300-h975-no

1 doggo power
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v7...=w1300-h975-no

15F 20R H&R spacers
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/la...=w1300-h976-no
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While installing fender flares I also popped off the front bumper and did a quick Morimoto xb LED fog light retrofit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_u...=w1300-h976-no
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Here is the evolution of the front end. REALLY liking the black fog lights.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Og...rPxWGa=s975-no

Time for a wash.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GR...=w1300-h976-no


Here are some pictures with the new flares, spacers, wheel studs, and LED fog light retrofit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8H...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ay...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rB...=w1300-h976-no
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In regards to fitment the next item will be running taller aspect ratio tired to fill up the wheel wells, after tires I will lower as needed to eliminate excessive wheel gap.

Next project, OEM trailer hitch.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fM...=w1300-h976-no

Great great work so far! Keep it up!


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Can I ask why OEM hitch? most of us went aftermarket as we didnt want to cut into the bumper nor liked how the OEM looked after it was installed?

Good job so far, may I suggest painting the fenders to match the body....

Continued nice work. Wish I could work as fast as you do. Be careful with the taller aspect tires from stock. They can get expensive. I went up on my E53 x5 to 285/40/20 up front, which weren't bad. But the rears to match had to be 325/35/20 which are only made by Pirelli. And list for something like $550/tire. :( They have really helped though in terms of usability and have saved my Forgestars from one or two possible curb rash incidents over the years.

Did end up getting an e61 for the wife and I but it's boring TiAg. Just got some style 230's wrapped in tires for it yesterday. Maybe I'll do a build over at the Fest as yours, but it won't end up nearly as nice. ;)

Not doing to paint the fenders as that means painting the lower bumper corners and it looks cheesy and cluttered with so many panels IMO. The only way I would do it is with an M sport front bumper and M sport or X5M rear bumper but my paint (A68) wasn't offered on the X5M and is super rare on M sports the chances of finding those bumpers is slim to none, sourcing the bumpers and having them painted along with the fenders and rocker panels isn't a welcomed expense. My dark grey paint does a good job of hiding the black plastics and to be honest I don't mind the contrast of the utilitarian look of the plastics.

I went with the OEM hitch as the other main prospect, Curt Hitch, requires a stabilizer strap for bike racks which is just stupid and what I consider to be a design flaw. OEM is kown for having robust construction. As far as the trimming of the bumper I will modify the electrical connector mounting plate as others have done and trim the bumper as minimally and cleanly as possible to accommodate the 2" receiver only. This means that only the receiver will show (like the other aftermarket options) but sit higher in the bumper so it will be even cleaner looking (IMO).

I looked at the stealth hitches but the concept of using what is essentially extensions for the receiver and/or towing ball adds another piece that can wobble around, given this will be prodominantly used for a bike rack (1UP Super Duty) and my Pole Evolink is one of the longest bikes on the market this was a big concern. Not to mention all the stealth hitches are wildly overpriced.

This was my inspiration for the OEM hitch, mine should look even more stealthy with my lower valence black as opposed to OEM silver.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IR...p=w960-h720-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J1...H=w960-h720-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cW...H=w960-h720-no

Congrats on the E61! Yes, you should start a build log!

I am familiar with the tire options, if you think 20" is bad try looking for 21" tires. lol! There is a silver lining however, Mercedes/Porsche/Audi have Continental make their SportContact 5 and 5P in the sizes I want. 285/45F 325/40R but the problem is the 285/45 didn't fit up front so I am forced to run a 285/40 but I should be able to squeeze the 325/40 in the rear. Having x-delete will negate the F/R diameter concern. As a bonus there are some tire shops which have new old stock of these and can be had for very reasonable prices, $550 for all 4 tires. After I confirm the tires will fit I might stock to have some extras.

Thank you. The wife was very impressed with how big the 5er is compared to the x5's. Fits more stuff and has more room for the kids.

Gotcha on the tires. I must have missed the Xdrive delete. Should look VERY nice with the extra sidewall and mild drop.

I think I am going to do those UR bars as well. I have used them on other vehicles but never a BMW and forget they actually make a fair amount of reinforcement/upgrade products for them. Thank you for reminding me. :thumbup:

I replaced worn Start/Stop and AC fan speed (not shown) buttons.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hm...=w1300-h976-no

Got some pedals from Ultimate Pedals, I have ran a pair on my old E39 M5 and am on my second set on my white E61, they are extremely well made and I am a big fan or brushed metals in interiors.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eY...=w1300-h976-no

Details
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bi...=w1300-h976-no

Before
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During
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After
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In my eyes this is a nice sporty/classy touch to the interior.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CY...=w1300-h976-no

Getting back to the OEM hitch install
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2f...=w1300-h976-no

These are all the goodies included in the kit
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cA...=w1300-h976-no

I wasn't going to put up with the excessive bumper trimming required to fit the OEM hitch so I decided to modify the angle of the plate that mounts the trailer wiring connector. I cut it off and ground it flush with an angle grinder
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8t...=w1300-h976-no

Paid a local welder $20 to mount it back on
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NG...=w1300-h976-no

OEM crash bar vs OEM hitch, the hitch is real beefy and weighs about 55lbs
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f4...=w1300-h976-no

Hitch bolted up, you can see the nee vertical orientation of the connector ....and all the scratches the welder added to the hitch while moving it around. I used some Duplicolor semi-gloss paint which matched the OEM finish very well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jV...=w1300-h976-no

Moving onto the wiring
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EX...=w1300-h976-no

Previous owners had little kids, I have now collected about 10-12 Lego pieces from the interior. Battery area got a vacuum.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tw...ZKPQZc=s975-no

Wiring ran to fuse block and module installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uv...=w1300-h976-no

Trimming was a little tedious but I am happy with the results.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ci...=w1300-h976-no

In this photo the 4 pin connector/adapter is installed, some people inquired if it would sit too low in the new position, no.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tQ...=w1300-h976-no

Clean!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gt...=w1300-h976-no
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Added +AHMU to the vehicle order and then followed that up with some additional module coding
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zM...=w1300-h976-no

Some module coding included rear view camera zoom for aligning a trailer
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PT...=w1300-h976-no

The setup with the new 1UP Super Duty bike rack installed. It is the only rack would fit my monster 1360mm wheelbase Pole Evolink.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ov...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AU...=w1300-h976-no

Awesome work, may I ask what benefits U get from changing the Sway Bar? Was the OEM broken?

The sway bar is thicker than OEM. A thicker sway bar = less body roll.

I guess kinda like the E39 guys who use the M5 rear sway on a NON M5 I would think. I might give this a try since my E39 felt a lot better in the curves after I swapped it out.

It took me a couple months but I finally realized I live a few miles from a Proper station that has HPR, I go to the same station to fill my wagon with E85. It's nice that they don't over charge for the "performance" diesel, same price as Shell, Chevron, etc.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P0...=w1300-h975-no

A fellow X5D owner lend me his JBD to try out until I get deleted/tuned. Running it at 100%. It offers a nice bump in power.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ft...=w1300-h976-no

Since I have multiple BMW key fobs from the same generation I had some custom keychains made to keep them organized.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z0...=w1300-h976-no

Personalized plates arrived.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ma...=w1300-h976-no

Happy to report it is centered, I haven't had great success in the past.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9Q...=w1300-h976-no

Some pics racked up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x3...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lo...=w1300-h976-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gu...=w1300-h976-no

Looks great! I've never heard of high performance diesel before....I'll have to look into that.

Question: does the rack and bike make your rear squat that much or is it just a weird camera angle?

No squat ever since I have rear air. Might be an illusion with my ultra high OEM non-sport suspension.

Nice! What cetane number does this fuel has ?


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Wow! Im from Romania, and the best diesel fuel we got is 55. I bet there s a huge difference when you top up with hpr.


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The X5 hasen't been getting much love with a lot of recent travel, other project wagons, a broken finger, and a new 2mo puppy but I do have some maintenance and mods collecting.
Fluidampr, fuel filter, oil filter, vac lines, and a 3" QTP e-cutout I had left over from a wagon project. I have also been researching and strategizing for a custom intake, a big intercooler retrofit, potential trans cooler, and tuners/exhaust for the deletes.

Buying well designed off the shelf items is great since you know fitment will be perfect but I do enjoy the challenge of a good DIY/retrofit project so I will likely end up retrofitting a VRSF race intercooler and building an RK Autowerk style cold air intake. I know the OEM system is well designed but if I play my cards right I should be able to build a system that has similar filtering properties and intake air temps while offering a shorter piping run. Plus more turbo noises and a unique intake system. Living in San Diego I don't have many worries about excessive water/dirt/etc. Climate is kind to cars out here.

For exhaust I like the ATM since it has an in-line resonator but they seem to be out of stock and have been for a while, if it's not available then VRSF DP with Rawtek mid pipe seems to be a nice setup and I like having the 2 bolt flange in place of the slip on design. Either way the plan is to put the QTP valve as far back as possible, ideally right before the OEM muffler. straight piped M57s aren't too loud but since this is a road trip vehicle it will be nice to have a "quiet" mode.

The Y-pipe supplied by QTP has pretty poor fit and finish with a lot of excess material protruding from the welds, this will need to be ground down to keep gasses moving smoothly. QTP also supplies a monster of a toggle switch that is hard to operate and looks like it should be installed in a aircraft from the 70s so I will be upgrading it to a more elegant/flush switch and try to integrate it around the headlight dial so it looks as OEM as possible.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3i...=w1300-h976-no

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ATM was out of stock when I went to order something last from them, just give them an email or a call. They ended up having the thing I wanted in stock, and updated the page to allow me to order it. I love my ATM, and I'm betting the resonator on there really helps at some frequencies.

Just got ATM 3.5” downpipe (apparently the first one) and VERY impressed so far. He seems to be active on the NABMWDO group fwiw


Sent from my iPhone using Xoutpost.com

So they revised the DP from 3" to 3.5"? Curious if they will revise their X5D exhaust as well. 3.5" seems the way to go (ideally).

Played around with the with configuring an inlet system. There might be some subtle changes but I am pretty confident the setup I sketched out will work.

The OEM system seems to perform well for what it is, the goal with this system is to achieve similar filtration and low intake temps while shortening the intake systems length. There are some high HP 335ds which essentially run an ultra short; filter - MAF - turbo inlet pipe. The benefits of the short run and high flow seem to outweigh disadvantage of having the filter in the engine bay and sucking hot air. I hope to have a system that is as short as possible while introducing cold air. Turbo noises and having a unique inlet which cleans up the engine bay are bonuses.

The key to the system will be a 3.5" 90 degree oval pipe made by CXRacing. This X5M intake was the closest thing I found to what I want to achieve.
https://cdn.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...1&d=1533586956

Here is a scribble of the system. It's worth noting the OEM air filter is a larger 9.5x12" panel filter and looking that size up on K&N's website it should flow ~600cfm, that's K&N's panel filter and is thinner than the Bosch unit BMW uses so I assume the stock filter flows a bit less, maybe 500-550cfm.

K&N offers two filters that will work, the RC-5000 which flows 600cfm and the RC-5040 which flows 1,000cfm. I might see if I can atuff the 5040 but if it's too much hassle then the its nice to know the 5000 essentially flows the same as stock.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s7...=w1300-h976-no

Conveniently the OEM turbo inlet pipe houses the PCV connection
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3B...=w1300-h976-no

With the upper portion of the pipe being removable there is a nice flange to clamp onto
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D1...=w1300-h976-no

Here is the everything but the turbo inlet pipe installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ke...=w1300-h976-no

The next 2 photos show the MAF mocked up and spaced as if there was a 3" to 2.5" reducer between it and the turbo inlet pipe. Off the MAF will be a 3.5"-3" reducing 90 degree silicone elbow directly connected to a 45 degree elbow which connects to the oval pipe. The goal is to have the oval pipe inline with the vehicle and have the silicone do the bending but if space is limited then I might skip the 45 bend and run the pipe direclty off the 90 degree elbow, we shall see.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ke...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S3...=w1300-h976-no

When reinstalling the turbo inlet pipe the PCV pipe split, you can see it was cracked in multiple locations. I had some heater hose lying around which fit well.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i0...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nO...=w1300-h976-no

I am excited to delete this leaking CCV system in favor for a vented oil catch can.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kL...=w1300-h976-no

Upgraded the switch for my QTP exhaust valve, not sure if I will end up using a wireless controlled but if I do a hardwired switch this toggle is much easier to operate and offers a cleaner design.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sh...=w1300-h976-no

Did a few 0-60 runs, 6.5 was the best but it was also on a slightly uphill road so I expect a 6.3 could have been achieved. Not very exciting but nice to have some sort of baseline before power increases. Currently running JBD @10 and a trans tune.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0o...=w1300-h976-no

Speaking of trans tune I was having some delay in acceleration from a standstill, part of it seems to be electronic off the pedal but there is also an elastic like delay which I assume is related to the torque converter. Rod's trans tune does manipulate the TC so I asked him about it and he sent and updated file V12.3 to HP5 IIRC.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yK...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qt...=w1300-h976-no

In the continued spirit of preventative maintenance I replaced the fuel filter. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lB...=w1300-h976-no

Turns out the one installed was dated 2014... overdue!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x4...=w1300-h976-no

New filter installed, notice 2019 date.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/18...=w1300-h976-no

I also noticed some water ingress via the cowls and I am aware the injector related issues this can cause and although I live in San Diego where precipitation isn't so common, I still wanted to nip it in the butt.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8m...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RN...=w1300-h976-no

Central cowl piece removed, notice the ends where the oem foam has been smashed and morphed into a goo.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/re...=w1300-h976-no

I cleaned off the edges and installed some OCI butyl. I do a lot of headlight work so I conveniently had this laying around. I laid a thick bead at each end.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yg...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gw...=w1300-h976-no

With the panel reinstalled you can see the excess squishing out. This is what I wanted to make sure there were no gaps but its a bit of an eye sore and butyl can be a mess especially when warm so I trimmed it with a razor and gave it a leak test. Good to go!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wD...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C2...=w1300-h976-no

My "engine acoustics" were chewed up from a rat at some point and contaminated with carbon via boost leaks so I trimmed up the eye sore a bit and I decided not to install the OEM engine cover, because of this I also removed the oil filler neck extension. I like to tidy up the engine bay as I go and keep things minimal as it makes it easier to wrench.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5f...=w1300-h976-no
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Replacing vacuum lines turned into bypassing the low pressure EGR cooler and deleting the high pressure EGR cooler.

OEM vac lines had ~80,000 miles on them and were nice and toasty. Even with expanding pliers I wasn't able to get the lines off the nipples without cutting them with a razor. The last vac line I replaced was for the low pressure EGR cooler (located under the LP turbo) and accidentally broke the plastic nipple off. After doing some research I sounded like this wasn't worth repairing since I plan to delete it eventually and the non functional valve should only throw a CEL, not put the X5 into limp.

After learning my EGR delete intake pipe could be installed without limp mode I decided now was a good tie to do that as well. Even while on a stock tune I like having this done to slow carbon build up and have a nice bump in engine efficiency.

The e61 that's for sale gets the garage so the workshop moved to the driveway.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rn...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Re...=w1300-h976-no

Roasted and toasted!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dy...=w1300-h976-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6N...=w1300-h976-no

The best tip I have is to figure out how to remove this rear solenoid, reaching many of the vac lines is awkward but these two are impossible unless you pop the solenoid out.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VH...=w1300-h976-no

I didn't see any holes but the lines were not in good shape
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qr...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pO...=w1300-h976-no

Farewell cooler
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uK...=w1300-h976-no
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With the braces out I hit them with some sandpaper and applied some top coat, hopefully they stay looking fresh, I am a bit fan of brushed metals, especially in engine bays.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gy...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3G...=w1300-h976-no

Looks great! You have me more motivated than ever to get my deletes on order and get the ball rolling. I miss my old X5 engine bay that was free of that huge EGR cooler. It just looks so much better.

First things first, welcome the new garage mate: Oliver! Soon to be 3 month old Blue Merle Australian Shepard.
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Back to the basics: fresh oil
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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nc...=w1300-h976-no

Next project was to run the wiring for my paddles, the electrical pins are in the mail so I figured it would be good to get the wiring done. I started by removing the wheel so confirm the M-sport paddles are configured like other M-sport paddles with resistors ...and they are. M-sport owners on other chassis remove the resistors to create a simple switch, others add additional resistors but in the spirit of KISS, I will explore a coding option I read about which will allow communication, if now then I have the other more permanent options to explore.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RK...=w1300-h976-no
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After some poking around I decided to run the wiring in this manner from the SZL; through the fire wall just above the dead pedal, from just under the brake booster out another grommet to the driver wheel well, up and over the transmission, and back to the electrical connector. There might have been a more direct way but this was fairly easy to access and the wiring is away from all the hot items on the passenger side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yz...=w1300-h976-no

Grommet above the dead pedal
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ci...=w1300-h976-no

View of the grommet below the brake booster
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yh...=w1300-h976-no

Thread the needle
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g0...=w1300-h976-no

In this pic you can see the wire ran behond the wheel liner. Wiring is tucked away as I wait for the pins to arrive.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...=w1300-h976-no

Next project was aligning the rear tailgate which was pulled over to the passenger side. Using NewTIS I found the instructions for aligning the gate and played around with the loosing the bolts which connect the hinge to the body and the gate, it was a pain and didn't really work. To access these bolts you had to remove the spoiler.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YD...=w1300-h976-no

Here is before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oI...=w1300-h976-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/c8...VD4Z0g=s975-no

It isn't perfect but the most beneficial adjustment came from correcting the latch catch. If you lowered the tailgate down manually to where it was almost shut you could see it was pretty straight but then got all crooked when latched, DOH! I should have paid closer attention, removing the spoiler and playing with the main hinge wasn't necessary SMH. I also noticed the passenger side "bottom-out pad"? was about 5 millimeters higher so I brought that down to level. Maybe it was raised earlier to eliminate tailgate rattle? We shall see.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xl...=w1300-h976-no

Here is after, not perfect but much better
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qv...=w1300-h976-no
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Added some fresh felt tape to the latch catch.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BJ...=w1300-h976-no

Last project was fabbing up a PCV delete plate which will eventually house a bulkhead fitting and allow me to run an oil catch can. Just as others have done I used 1/3" aluminum hacked it up with an angle grinder and a Dremel. Considering my lack of metal fabrication experience and relatively primitive tools I am happy with the outcome. I bought a small vented Mishimoto "style" OCC but I know the Provent is the go-to for the M57 with a few internal mods. TBH the Provent is huge and looks like hell so I will see if I can get satisfactory results for another style OCC, if not then I will revert to the Provent and it's unsightly "do they really need to be this large of a diameter" hoses.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T6...=w1300-h976-no
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Good enough!
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Keep it clean!
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Nice work as always. Beautiful pup. Love the doggos. Wife and I are still getting over losing ours. Maybe when the kids are older...

I think those vacuum lines are going to need doing in the not-so-distant future of the wife's X35d as they look original. :(

I wish all dogs lived longer, like birds!

For the vacuum lines when I do mine over somethings I will change are A) replace the OEM lines with a longer lasting aftermarket option and B) reroute some lines more over the valve cover and away from the turbos, a handful of the hot side lines can be shifter about 1-1.5" inward and they should see considerably less heat.

I finished wiring the paddles and got everything operational. I will be creating a guide explaining the process for E70s, there was info online but it wasn't definitive so I am hoping the consolidation of the necessary steps plus some pointers will be helpful for others. Keep an eye out for a link soon.

In addition to the paddle shift project the maintenance train continued to charge forward with the following:

- Fluidampr harmonic balancer + upgraded alternator pulley
- Water Pump + Thermostat
- New Belts

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VH...Q=w832-h624-no

Removing AC stretch belt
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b2...A=w832-h624-no

Alternator pulley: Left-Old Right-New
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_s...g=w832-h624-no

Left: OEM balancer
Right: Fluidampr
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QC...A=w832-h624-no

OEM HB looked to be in good shape. There was no record of it being replaced in 85k so it's nice to know the Fluidampr is in there now, especially before tuning.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/b0...A=w832-h624-no

Noted some minor wheeping around the crank hub, not an urgent matter but it will be corrected at some point.
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Old vs New
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2l...Q=w832-h624-no

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Cleaned, inspected, and greased up.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_x...w=w832-h624-no

Refilled cooling system and got up to operating temp.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/di...w=w832-h624-no

Paddles in action! :)


Also, this chirping noise shown below would happen periodically on start up, usually when the engine hasen't been ran for >12 hours. This was resolved when replacing my harmonic balancer, alternator pulley, and water pump. My guess it was caused by the alternator pulley.


I had some odd locking behavior, the driver door stopped unlocking at all and you needed to utilize the "actual" key however the driver door would lock with the FOB. Gas cap also needed a manual release to open. All other doors were unresponsive. Research said it was either a fuse or lock actuator. Thankfully it was a fuse, I replaced the 15A with 20A.
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My initial fog light retrofit utilized 3M VHB which is amazing stuff but it didn't offer the structural rigidity needed for this application and with the heat sinks of the projectors completely exposed there was too much space for water and dirt to ingress so I revised the design.

To mount the LED projector bracket to the fog housing I used my ultra tiny drill bit and some steel wire to create 4 anchor points
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RR...=w1300-h977-no

Next was JB Weld which completely seals the perimeter and also adds rigidity.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lu...=w1300-h977-no

Last were rubber housing caps to seal the rear, these work but they are a little excessive in their volume and the flange that grabs onto the housings could be deeper so I will be trying a different design later to optimize the design.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qs...=w1300-h977-no

I gave the X5 a wash immediately after installing the revised fogs and so far so good, next wash will be with a power washer :)
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I finally had the opportunity to take some output pics. Some things to note on these photos: The X5 is parked at a slight angle relative to the wall and the ground also has a slight angle which makes the output scale up in size towards the left. I did a quick aim of the projectors inside the fog housings before installing them into the bumper but never did another aiming once in the bumper, as you can see the driver side is aimed a bit higher and should be lower to match the passenger side.

The passenger side is aimed about as low as it can go, the projector assmebly bottoms out on the fog housing limiting the downward angle. I might be able to improve this a little by mounting the LED projector up a little higher in the fog housing when I join the two assemblies but the improvement will be small. The limited downward aim combined with the relatively high location of the fog lights in the X5's bumper these fog lights are more like supplemental driving lights. That being said with the ho-hum performance of the E70's adaptive xenon lights and the impressive output of the small LED fogs, they do a nice job complimenting the headlight's low beam output and help fill out the beam pattern. Photos are with an iphone and exposure is on auto.

LED fogs only
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a7...=w1300-h977-no

Low beams only
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C4...=w1300-h977-no

Low + Fog
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jm...=w1300-h977-no

Fog only
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Here is a video cycling through the lights

Where to begin? Lots to cover so I will get to it.

I added twin Diode Dynamics Stage 6" "wide" light bars as reverse lights. I run a single DD bar on my E61 and it's amazing, this is double amazing. Tapped into OEM wiring, mounted to the subframe braces. These offer tons of light and with their optics and location tucked forward under the bumper you aren't going to be blinding people when reversing ...unless thy happen to be on their hands and knees for some reason.
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Installed H&R 1.2 front springs, they come with adjustable links for the rear but before ordering the springs I already DIYed some adjustable links by modding the stock units. I hear mixed reviews on the H&R springs and the ride quality but I figured I would give them a shot and come to my own conclusion. I should really get some struts which are intended to operate lowered but as part of the experiment I wanted to see how the stock struts performed, I replaced thin bushings and upgraded from teh "3rd row" bump stops to the "sport."
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zq...=w1300-h977-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ob...=w1300-h977-no
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Rear links set to 65mm as H&R recommends, I like the drop but those tires are a bit thin
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_Z...=w1300-h977-no
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I like custom stuff and I like turbo noises so I "built" aka trimmed and assembled some silicone and metal. The goal was to retain the cold air source like stock but shorten the intake ducting and hopefully increase turbo response and flow capabilities. Freeing up room in the engine bay is always a bonus. I plan on dyno testing this vs stock to confirm performance later. I have a detailed thread on this project in the forum, just search! :)
Stock intake for reference
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ll...=w1300-h977-no

My intake
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Thick boy tires. The Michelin PSSs originally on the 612M wheels were 285/35/21 and 325/30/21 A 30 profile tire is too thin IMO for a 5,000+lbs SUV. With the short gearing and only 6 spd trans on the diesel I wanted meatier tires to A) add comfort and B) give it some longer legs at highway speeds. The added rotational mass will hurt acceleration and braking a bit but I have some solutions lined up for that. :)

These are Continental SportContact 5P 285/40/21 and 325/40/21 If you recall I test fit a 285/45 front tire that DIDN'T fit up front, that is the matching tire for these monstrous rear tires. With tire sizes limited in 21" I had limited options and this was staggered setup was my best option. I am not crazy about the Hot Wheels raked look but this was a function>form modification. The front tire looks perfect, if they made a matching 325/35 rear it would have been ideal buuuuuuut they don't! These rears have a 31" diameter!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2s...=w1300-h977-no

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At some angles the rear tires look out of place and at other angles they just look beefy. The exaggerated rear flares do help the rear meat blend in a bit.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tg...=w1300-h977-no
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Apparently the 3rd row got some use with the previous owner, good for them. Aside from a comical test to see if all 6'8" 255lb of me could fit in there I have never and will never use it. I bought the X5 with 3rd row for the load leveling so this seat is nothing but added weight and cargo space. 100lbs and 6 cu/ft of cargo space to be exact! I purchased some of the OEM cargo rails but will install once my new non-3rd row cargo floor arrives.
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Now onto the good stuff. The diesel motor has been chock long enough, time to let that motor be efficient. In addition to the bump in MPG, and +150whp and +150wtq with the DPF, SCR, and Uerea tans gone that is another 100lbs lost.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iG...=w1300-h977-no
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Cleaning as I go
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Fabbed up a block off plate for the low pressure EGR connection
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Malone Tuning + Flashzilla tuning device. I currently have Stage 2, 2.5, and 2.9 to play around with. Currently running 2.9 and will data log and see if we can't make some tuning revisions to optimize everything.
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Let's take a moment to appreciate this Rawtek exhaust, this features a 3.5" DP and an high flow cat in the mid-pipe. Rawtek is more expensive than other X5D exhaust options but with build quality like this the price is easy to justify for the discerning enthusiast.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BJ...=w1300-h977-no
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The real headlight retrofit is coming soon until then I wanted to test out these new Philips XV2s.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aL...=w1300-h977-no

Since removing the rear DVD system I had a void in the console, the gentleman who bought the system was supposed to send me his storage cubby but I never heard from him so I sourced the parts from eBay. Hard to see but now I have a place to put "oddments" as BMW would say.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p6...r5dVIg=s975-no

With some exhaust sensors now rendered useless I went through the engine bay, removing what I could, rerouting some items, and giving a little nip/tuck to clean things up. Happy with how it is looking.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nY...=w1300-h977-no
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Engine bay clean ups are my favorite things. Great work sir. Hopefully removing both DPF tanks in a few weeks when I do my full delete as well.

Nice work, per the usual.

Funny, I am also 6'8" and until recently was also 255lbs. I've dropped down to 240 over the last couple of months. Sorry, OT, but thought it was an interesting coincidence. :D

Big guys rule!!!!

The X5 has it's first road trip under it's belt (~700 miles round trip). Being deleted the X5 has the potential to be efficient but you really need to be mindful of your driving habits, for me >70mph the MPGs really start to deteriorate. I averaged 23MPG on the outbound trip which included getting over some mountains and also some spirited "demo" driving with relatives. On the return trip the first 80 miles were mainly rolling 2 lane road with light traffic and 55-65mph, this yielded 28.3 mpg and once back on the highway doing 75-80mph for the next ~300 miles including the mountains the gauge read 25mpg once I returned home.

I have some more tricks up my sleeve to optimize efficiency but it's pretty clear driving habits are the most important variable with fuel efficiency. I am interested to see what kind of mileage I can get with the beast but the reality is I rarely have the patience to drive that way, lol. I have another road trip for the holidays were I will do my best to see what ind of MPG I can achieve.

On a side note, while running the Propel HPR fuel there is no visible smoke while driving even at WOT, awesome. In addition to no smoke the renewable fuel also has almost double the cetane of regular diesel, and the icing on top is the fuel reduces green house emissions by 40-80%, SICK! You gotta be in CA to indulge.


I found a cheap E60 M5 cluster on eBay made a hybrid cluster. M5 gauges, X5 gauge faces, M5 needles, M5 bezel, X5 KOMBI. I was torn on the white vs red needles, I modded the cluster in my E61 and left the needles white as there is no arguing the superior daytime visibility. I prefer the svelt looks of the M5 needles so I figured I would give them a shot and see how I get along with the red. At this point the hybrid cluster is just an aesthetic mod but my goal is to get the radial engine oil temp gauge that surrounds the tachometer to work so I can know when my engine is up to temp before stomping on it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jF...=w1300-h977-no
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With an upcoming multi-state trip for the holidays and 2 pups some extra cargo space is needed. I was eyeing up the Thule boxes but found a killer deal on a Yakima Skybox, not crazy about the styling but the dimensions and capacity were a good fit. I paired it with some Yakima Whispbars, this is my 3rd set and love the sleek profile. Happy with how it all turned out but the red really clashes with my color scheme. Pffffft.

Box was functionally perfect after lubing the locks but it had a bunch of stucco and white paint marks on it from careless handling/storage but I polished the turd and made it a little more presentable.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zH...=w1300-h977-no
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Worn front end sway bar links replaced with Meyle HD
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Lk...=w1300-h977-no
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Another chill upgrade. ATM stepped intachilla. I went with the optional ASV pipe so all the leaky OEM connectors from the turbo outlet to the intake manifold are replaced with quality silicone and clamp connections.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qy...=w1300-h977-no
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Clean as you go!
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Can you tell which screw was close to the turbo outlet? lol
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gm...=w1300-h977-no

Adapters installed on turbo outlet and ASV
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/23...=w1300-h977-no

Stuffed in there. I will probably build a custom shroud that goes down to the bottom of the intercooler so airflow is optimized.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y8...=w1300-h977-no

Everything reassembled, time to datalog and make sure I don't blow off any connections.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5K...=w1300-h977-no


The last piece of the puzzle for the upcoming road trip is a winter wheel/tire setup. I have the OEM 19s that came on the X5 but 19s won't clear the eventual X5M brake upgrade and I don't want to reconfigure the winter set again down the road so I was on the hunt for some 20s. The OEM 20" X5 wheels are all heavy AF and during researching "5x120" on Craigslist I found a set of Camaro ZL1 wheels that caught my eye since they are concave and had a 10-spoke design that I would describe as more of a split 5 spoke. With more researching I found they have the same 20x10 20x11 widths as OEM X5 wheels and mangeable offsets at 23F and 43R. Bore is 67 so that will need to be machined out to 74.1 but no biggie.

The kicker is they are FORGED and made by Alcoa, tipping the scales at 26lb F and 27lb R, light, really light! I decided to go with a square 20x11 setup for simplicity and found a killer deal on Michelin Aplin LA2 tires, 295/40/20. Got 4 new tires for a little more than the retail price for a single tire!

My current 21" 612M wheels are forged but carry a bit more weight and the beefy Continental add more weight, especially the monstrous rear tire. My current setup tips the scale at 68lbs F and 80lbs R. The winter setup will be 61lbs per corner. I am eager to see how performance is impacted. If all goes well I might consider the ZL1 wheels for summer (all the time buy mountain trips) as well.

Pic of the ZL1 wheels for reference, I think the styling will suit the X5 well. I had some concerns of putting sports car wheels on a performance truck but considering the quality of the wheel and the fact that the ZL1 isn't THAT much lighter than the X5 I think it should be fine, if my wheels breaks in half while driving then the jokes on me.
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Cheap rubber at 1010Tires.com
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Very cool stuff going on.

Our intercooler is pretty good so I can only imagine how much better your new one will be. I want to do the same stuff you've done. New intercooler, new charge pipes along with new turbos and a clean intake.

WHEN you get your new cluster working, please let me know. I want to discuss getting a temperature meter working in my X5d.

What about the lug holes on those ZL1 wheels?

My X5 seems to be an outlier with regard to fuel mileage. Even at 80mph, 26-28 mpg is pretty standard. If I drive at 65-70mph, 30+ mpg is no problem. Once I was able to drive steady at 68mph (indicated) for over four and a half hours and the OBC said 33.6 mpg. Like you experience, though, spirited driving will drop the mpg pretty quick. I think if you can get some more long road trips on yours, you might see some improvement, especially with the deletes.

Thanks for the kind words and the optimism that I WILL get the radial temp gauge working! We will see! Some of the 335d owners have experimented and tried some module cloning and coding to no avail, the hurdle seems to be diesel related since 335i guys can do it no problem. I haven't dove into the project yet but I mean, we have engine oil temp sensors and a gauge fully connected and ready to transmit data, it's just a matter of connecting the signal. How hard can it be? (Famous last words)

I do have a fellow enthusiast who is an advanced coder and wizard of all things related to BMW electronics. He helped my resolve the coding on my E61 to get the DSC system operational, it was tricky since I built a Franken-wagon with a manual trans, full RWD conversion, a 535i DSC unit in a wagon that was only imported to the US with AWD. On a project I will usually do as much research and attempt the coding myself and once I hit a wall, kindly ask him to bail me out. Thankfully he loves my weird projects and contributing to my builds.

I don't see an issue with the Lug holes on the ZL1 wheels, the 5x120 bolt pattern is identical and they accept a M14 bolt with a conical seat, same as the e70. I have Motorsport hardware studs and nuts so I can just slide the wheels on with whatever spacers I need (should be 10mm front to clear the spindle, and 25mm rear to match the offset).

I'd accept just a basic temperature meter in place of that stupid consumption meter. It is an absolute waste of space and has been for decades.

Okay, I wasn't sure if the ZL1 wheels were M12 or M14. Sounds like you're all set.

Need to get caught up a bit on this thread. I just returned from a 2 week road trip through CA, NV, UT, and AZ but there were some important mods which happened prior to the trip.

- Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case, and F/R Differentials all flushed and I added some "Golden Eagle" oil, more on this below.
- Installed "Phantom Fuel System"
- Swapped to ZL1 Winter wheel setup
- Converted D1S bulbs to D2S and installed custom 50w Hella ballasts
- Installed Diode Dynamics 18" LED light bar
- Installed non-3rd row cargo floor and OEM rail system

Threw the X5 on the scales, 5,100 with a 1/2 tank of gas. So this should be 5,050 on the ZL1 wheels.
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First up is the Phantom Fuel system. I stumbled upon this thing while searching Craigslist for X5D related stuff. I contacted the seller for more info and after connecting over the phone, sharing some info back on forth via email I am not a beta tester for the unit. I call this thing the wizard-tube but it is essentially filled with metals that excite the fuel as it passes through which in terms helps the fuel completely burn for better performance and efficiency. The tech is derived from petroleum drilling but has been implemented into commercial diesel fleets around Texas such as semi trucks and school busses with excellent results. The system can work on all fuels types so I might throw it on my E61 that runs ethanol to see how it performs. Data on more performance oriented vehicles like the X5 is limited which is where I come in. I will be sharing more info on this later.
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Fluids were all flushed and Golden Eagle oil supplement was added. You add 10% to any engine/trans/gear oil. This is derived from the commercial refrigerant market and is essentially a hyper lubricant. The concept is simple, less friction = less parasitic loss which means better performance and efficiency. Not cheap at $135/gal but you don't need much. Before/After dynos have been done on C6 Z06s and Gen 2 Vipers and show a 10whp and 30whp gain respectively.
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I pieced together a square setup of 20x11 ZL1 wheels off eBay, I ended getting 4 wheels for ~$700 and with the crazy ~$90/tire I paid for the Michelin Alpin LA2 295/40/20 (Tirerack has them on "closeout" for $1,000/set) the total cost was about $1,400 for the setup which isn't "cheap" but considering the quality and weight of the wheels and that the snow tires are new, it's a great value.

2 wheels with tires arrived
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The other wheels are tires arrived
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The stamp of quality
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Wheels bored out to 74.1mm
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Tires mounted and wheels installed. 3mm spacer up front to clear wheel carrier and 25mm in the back but a 30mm would be ideal for flushness. I am VERY happy with how everything came together. I love concave wheels and this design cuits the E70 well. I will likely keep these as my summer aka "all the time minus mountain trip" wheels.
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The plan was to retrofit the headlights but I ran out of time prior to the road trip so I converted the bulbs to D2S which allows me to run the 50w ballasts, this bulb/ballast setup is currently running through the stock projectors (meh) but the same setup will be paired with the Lexus SC430 projectors below. The SC430s are amazing but low-beam-only so I needed a solution for the high beam. The plan was to install quad projectors, one low + one high, but there isn't enough room to stuff a decent high beam option so I reverted to an LED light bar for high beam use. A Diode Dynamics 18" Stage series light bar in "driving" optics was my choice. This was wired into the OEM high beam which means I have I retain the high beam assist feature with the light bar. Both the 50w ballasts and light bar use relay harnesses.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ai...=w1300-h977-no

Here is the back of the headlights with the D2S igniters coming through sealing grommets. The additional pigtail on the left is the OEM input for the low beam and connects to the relay harness.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wc...=w1300-h977-no

Originally I tapped the high beam pigtail inside the headlight as well but it wasn't triggering the relay harness, not sure if the voltage drops or if there was something going on with the CANBUS interrupting the signal so I switched the location to the wiring harness just before the headlight connector. Pigtail is soldered in and I wrapped it up with the fresh tape.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mA...=w1300-h977-no

Light bar install was simple, I bolted the adjustable brackets to the plastic shroud under the kidney grills.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TK...=w1127-h977-no

Blocking the power steering cooler and having the mesh grill block the light bar are both not ideal but they are compromises I am willing to make for the high beam performance. Where the grill does block a minimal amount of light it does offer a stealthier appearance which I like.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BN...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y2...=w1300-h977-no

Here are some output pics...

LED fogs
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dl...=w1300-h977-no

Low beam (stock projectors + Philips XV2 + 50w Hella ballasts)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ou...=w1300-h977-no

High beam (projectors + LED Light bar)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ki...=w1300-h977-no

With the 3rd row deleted this is what the cargo area looked like
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vn...=w1300-h977-no

...so I sourced the cargo floor from a non-3rd row X5 ($50) and snagged some OEM cargo rails ($50). I still need to get some touch up pieces but this is essentially how it will look. Given my 2nd row is designed for the 3rd row which means it has sliding, reclining, and pivots forward for rear entry the floor and cargo trim near the 2nd row is very different between the 3rd now and non-3rd row vehicles. The added adjustability of my second row is great and I have no interest to swap in the "static" 2nd row found on non-3rd row X5s but this also means I can't get the base piece where the cargo floor's hinges pivot on (and gas strut mount) nor can I run the cargo area side trim pieces without the built in 3rd row armrests that my X5 has. Not the end of the world but it does mean my cargo floor essentially just laying into position and isn't bolted to anything. A bit of a bummer a proper OEM conversion isn't possible but IMO the adjustability of the 2nd row is worth it. Hope that made sense! :)

During
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gl...=w1300-h977-no

After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oj...=w1300-h977-no

Here are a bunch of pics from my Holiday road trip.

Duck Creek Village, UT.
Cargo box was a life saver...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qG...=w1304-h978-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9h...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P0...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GU...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fg...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/S6...=w1304-h978-no

Zion National Park, UT
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/i2...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6M...=w1304-h978-no

Zebra Slot Canyons, UT.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rn...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lJ...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_T...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H5...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_t...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lj...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/77...=w1304-h978-no

Bryce Canyon, UT
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OQ...=w1304-h978-no

Sedona, AZ
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0N...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Is...=w1304-h978-no

Free car wash in Sedona
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/St...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iN...=w1304-h978-no

Terrible pick but proof I was in Flagstaff, AZ as well!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AK...=w1304-h978-no

Lake Havasu City, AZ
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xX...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XJ...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pD...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E5...=w1304-h978-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wG...=w1304-h978-no

Killer trip and great upgrades. Nice one!

After the winter road trip I picked up a set of Pirelli Scorpion Verde A/S tires. 295/40/20. I will run these as an temporary solution as I am still going back n forth with keeping a 20x11 square setup or going to a staggered 20x10F 20x11R. With the snow tires and cargo box removed I was curious to see what kind of MPG gain there would be. It's hard to get pure highway MPG figures that don't get diluted with my aggressive city driving.

I was able to get some clean highway runs in, only ~40 miles total but the drive was an out and back on the same stretch, average speed was 65mph and the return was 35mpg, nice!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/81...QkiukQ=s977-no

I became fond of the looks, strength, and weight of the Camaro ZL1 wheels and didn't see putting the Style 612Ms back on so they were sold :(
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4v...=w1300-h977-no

Mountain bike! \M/
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iW...=w1300-h977-no

20mm spacers were replaced with 30mm for flushness in the rear
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6A...=w1300-h977-no

Before
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wS...=w1300-h977-no

After
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/CE...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xO...=w1300-h977-no

Installed my 3" QTP exhaust valve. These slip on clamps made installa breeze and I am happy with the results. I still need to mount the switch in the cabin.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jR...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W0...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YA...=w1300-h977-nohttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mk...=w1300-h977-no

Front suspension is now completely refreshed, new OEM top hats, bushings, sport bump stops, KYB struts, and H&R 1.2 springs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wx...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J0...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jO...=w1300-h977-no

With the rear suspension things are a bit more complicated...

Researching on RealOEM and on other sites I heard that the rear struts for non-air equipped E70s have longer struts and taller (cupped) strut mounts, in a particular photo where someone was comparing the air vs non-air rear struts it looked like the sturt body was the same but the stanchion was longer on the non-air. So my though was to install the non-air struts and mounts on my X5 which, based on my info at the time, would allow 2" more suspension travel before the bump stops came into play, allowing better ride quality when lowered. However after ordering 2 sets of new rear struts (both air and non-air) it became apparent the 2" length difference is 100% in the sturt body so my plan fell apart.

Non-Air TOP vs Air BOTTOM
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YZ...=w1300-h977-no

Here is the 2" difference in the strut mounts. Air=Flat Non-Air=Dome
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AG...=w1300-h977-no

Another X5 owner was brainstorming with me and he had the idea to run the shorter "Air" rear struts with the domed non-air mounts; the idea being with domed strut mount would allow the strut extra room to move on a lowered vehicle and hopefully allow for proper strut function at a lowered ride height. I gave this a shot and after about 1 week or testing I came to the conclusion that this combo also wasn't ideal, ths strut was operating at essentially full length. If the sturt only saw compression this is probably OK and better than having the sturt working while significantly compressed however, knowing that the suspension will articulate and extend periodically I could see this damaging the strut when if it was topped out.

To conclude what really needs to happen is to take these 2" taller non-air struts mounts, have 1" of material removed, and have them welded back together. This should allow the strut to operate in an acceptable range on a lowered vehicle.

With the short strut + domed mounts installed I knew the strut might perform better at an even lower ride height to I adjusted the rear down another 3/4". With the strut bolt removed you can see how the strut at full extension sits in relation to the control arm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7r...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VF...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3C...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zb...=w1300-h977-no

I raised the rear back up and reverted to the shorter air strut and flat strut mount. Ride quality isn't as good as it was with the taller mount but I know won't be potentially damaging the strut.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SG...=w1300-h977-no

Check this out. A tuning company is pushing the limits of the M57 motor with their 335D. I can't imagine it staying together long at this power level (and 50% nitrous) but these numbers are crazy for a STOCK engine and STOCK turbo M57. Just nuts!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4I...=w1267-h975-no

65mph on the dash, on cruise control for the 35mpg run? If so... Maybe I need to get some of that oil additive you used...

I'll have to pop along at 65mpg on a flat stretch of road and see how my car does. I really don't know what it would do. Plus, we have different tunes. Looking forward to the results of the 3.15 too! Mpg is the goal for me.

For the rear lightbars, where did you route the wires to for the drivers side unit? I don't really see any nice pass through like the passenger side had right above and behind the exhaust tip.

I didn't use cruise control, not a fan of it if I am trying to be economical, it is aggressive with the throttle to maintain speed where I have better control driving myself.

For the wiring I just tucked it up and zip tied it safely out of the way, no real tricks, just common sense.

Too bad about the short shock / tall upper shock mount combo! Maybe using some wide aluminum bar as a spacer in the cup could be an option? A hole in the bar, and threaded rod and a coupler (plus a bunch of red thread locker) could extend the shock threads, essentially making a super thick flange. Or, drill out the studs, use longer bolts and machine a quick spacer.

I bought some Bilstein B8 shocks and the tall upper shock mounts - hope they work or I will have to figure out something.

I had a chance to execute the 3.15 rear end swap, I will be making a separate thread on this but will add some cliff notes here. For those who have done diff swaps, the change from 3.64 to 3.15 doesn't offer any surprises. Install was straight forward. The downside is acceleration from a dig isn't as dramatic but normal daily driving benefits from the gearing as the X5 has a lot of torque and has no issue moving itself along. The real benefit of this comes at highway speeds, I did some stretches at 60-65mph and it was returning ~35mpg which is what the 3.64 mustered. 65-80mph is where the 3.64 would fall apart and MPGs would drop down to the low-mid 20s, with the 3.15 at 70mph the X5 was still returning 35mpg. I still need to do some testing at higher highway speeds, 80+mph, but the X5 is definitely not as affected by the added speed. I will be swapping in the front diff to complete the gearing conversion and recommend this mod to others who value highway MPG and a less dramatic driving experience overall.

I was able to get a drive from San Diego up to Orange County, just under a 200 mile round trip, mainly flat with some rolling hills. On the drive up I was able to get 32.2mpg and this included 10 miles of urban driving to a shop. On the way home I got 35.1mpg highway only. Unfortunately I wasn't able to hand calculate the figures, this is based off cluster read-out and mine is usually 0-1mpg optimistic so take it for what it's worth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z9...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hS...=w1304-h978-no

Big Ass Wrench
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M2...=w1304-h978-no

If you recall I was playing around with running the shorter rear-air struts with the taller (2" taller) upper strut mounts from a non-air X5 and the goal was to get proper strut actuation while lowered. the air strut with the air mount was too compressed and the air strut with the non-air mount was too extended so I made some 1/2" and 3/4" spacers out of plastic cutting boards which are used to space the taller non-air mount down bring the strut into normal operating range.

To accommodate the spacers I needed to replace the OEM M10 studs with longer versions, after some research I found that ATVs run M10 wheels studs and with all the crazy modding that is going on in that industry, some companies make extended wheel studs to accommodate spacers. I found some that gave me an extra ~20mm of usable thread length.

Old studs out
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ji...=w1304-h978-no

Extended studs
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3X...=w1304-h978-no

Building spacers
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Qf...=w1304-h978-no

I made 2 sets of 1/2" and a pair of 3/4" so I can space the mounts as needed between 1/2-1"
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ke...=w1304-h978-no

What's interesting is how little stanchion travel BMW allows before the bump stops come into play on the rear struts. There are 3 OEM bump stop options: short, medium, and long with the short being sport, long being for 3rd row, and medium for X5s spec's in the middle.
Looking at the meidum bump stop install you can see there is only about 10mm of travel before the bump stop is activated, this is why most X5s ride so poorly when lowered, most are riding on the bump stops, literally.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oi...=w1304-h978-no

Here is the medium BS in the back and the sport (short) bump stop installed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wf...=w1304-h978-no

Here is a sport trimmed.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Aq...=w1304-h978-no

I installed the medium bump stop and paired with a 1/2" spacer which positions the strut in an acceptable operating range but closer to the "extended" side of the spectrum as opposed to "compressed." I know I am still mis-matching the dampening characteristics of the strut with squished air bags but this is a step in the right direction, more testing to do.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s5...=w1304-h978-no

I got around to installing the switch for my QTP exhaust valve. I ditched the huge/ugly/hard-to-operate switch QTP supplies for a sleeker momentary switch I bought off eBay, I wanted a more OEM look and easier operation. The goal was to mount the switch in an easy to access location that was also a bit out of sight, and I wanted to mount the switch into a panel or piece of trim that could be easily replaced if I wanted to revert back to stock. Very happy with how everything came together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7v...=w1304-h978-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FG...=w1304-h978-no

With the dark theme of the X5 the taillights and their bright red bothered me a bit so I got some Lamin-X smoked film. This is the lightest they make and offers the "dark-cherry" look I was going for. I also used some knifeless tape to cut the film so that it was only on the red and the white/clear sections have no film.

As a lighting nerd this is a step in the wrong direction in terms of illumination and safety so I had to offset that. I upgraded the rear turn signal and brake light bulbs to Diode Dynamics LED bulbs, I also coded the light module to do a double hazard flash. The bulbs are significantly brighter and combined with the instant-on flash of LEDs the turn signal more effective now than it was in the OEM configuration, even with the tint.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Yv...Nuk0Wg=s978-no

Great work as always! If I were to ever get a new job and do more highway driving I would certainly perform those diff swaps, that's a great bump in MPG's.

You are aspiring. :thumbup:

I find myself reading your build thread and day dreaming about working on the X5, but then the reality of work and family life smacks me right between the eyes.

I have a long list of a) Needs and b) Wants, but the reality is that I can hardly find enough time to wash the X5, or fit in an oil change. Have no clue where you find the time.. :dunno:

More power to you..

1) Thank you
2) I work from home and don't have kids

I have that same thought every time I read one his updates. :rofl:

Kids/wife/house/fleet take up all of what used to be my "modding" time. :(

Ditto [except I 'draft' the kids into helping - sometimes they're happy to help, sometimes not so much]


One question about the ZL1 wheels... Any plans on replacing that Chevy center cap? If you already answered that question, just chalk it up to me drooling over all the pics in this thread and not paying much attention to the text...

Thanks for the differential update, waiting on your full DIY as I have front and rear 3.15s holding down the garage floor. Did you notice any issues running the 3.64 front and 3.15 rear like you did? Would have thought there shouldn't be any with the torque split built into the X5, but going by a few of the "you must change both diffs . . ." statements. Again thanks for the modding inspiration.

The GM centercap is about 10mm smaller than BMW ones. If there was an easy PNP swap to get a BMW cap in there I would consider it but I am not embarrassed that a GM product is on the X5, the reality is it's a far superior product than any OEM 20" wheel designed for the X5 so I am happy to use the product. Besides it is a nice conversational piece. :)

I am running the X5 in RWD. As people have mentioned, you would be entering a world of hurt if you installed mis-matched diffs and ran in AWD mode.

Evan

Duh, let me clean the egg off of my face. :rofl:

I was able to get the X5 on some dynos, both a Mustang Dyno and a Dynojet.

Mustang was 317whp 504wtq
Dynojet was 370whp 520wtq

For those that don't know Mustang dynos use load and typically read lower. In general Mustang dynos should be more accurate but it's hard to say since it all comes down to proper calibration. Dynojets are more common for "big stick" comparisons amongst enthusiasts as dynojets are simply and measure power based off how quickly the vehicle can spin a drum, less variables to manipulate the numbers.

The dynojet operator was starting the pulls at way higher RPMs then he should have, shame on me for not picking up on this but he was going WOT between 2,500 and 3,000 rpm (seriously) and the M57 makes peak TQ around 2,950 so for my observant BMW diesel enthusiasts you may notice the Dynojet TQ numbers seem low, this is why, with a clean pull TQ #s would likely be ~550wtq.

On the Mustang dyno I was able to compare my custom inlet to the OEM airbox and although the data isn't perfect since the engine was getting a little heat soaked, it looks like the intake does flow better and offered more power, roughly +10hp +10tq. I am patiently waiting for the shop to email me the overlaid graphs.

On the Dynojet I did 2 pulls with my custom intake and 2 with just a 3.5" velocity stack mounted on the MAF. The pulls are so chaotic and the data so sloppy it's hard to discern what's going on but there was no measurable difference between the two.

Mustang session
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8N...=w1300-h977-no

Dynojet session
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mj...=w1300-h977-no

Custom Intake
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lw...=w1300-h977-no

Velocity stack
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iB...=w1300-h977-no

Went through all the pages, really inspiring stuff! Love the attention to detail and craftsmanship. Thinking about getting back into a 35d myself
Subscribed

It's been a while but this update is a good one!

I finished building and installed my Brembo big brake kit, which uses F10 M5 front calipers and rotors along with Porsche Panamera rear calipers with F85 rotors. 6-piston front 4-piston rear monoblock Brembo calipers. :)
I posted details on the BBK here:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1182346

Here are some pics of the finished product.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YJ...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z6...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JP...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v8...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ek...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Va...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m9...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_F...=w1300-h977-no

In other news I also got around to installing my Provent 200 OCC. It's a bit of a pain to install given it's huge size but I am happy with how it came out. Time will tell if I need to make revisions because some people have had issues with hoses becoming compromised over time from oil, leaking fittings etc.

I built a block off plate out of some 1/4" aluminum. I hacked it up with an angle grinder, a drill, and Dremel. Surprisingly it came out pretty good! I also bought some adapters from Australia via eBay that step the HGUE 1" hose bungs on the Provent down to a more manageable 19mm 3/4" hose. This offers many more hose options and the smaller hoses are easier to work with. I built a bracket for the Provent out of another bracket I had laying around (LED light bar IIRC) and some aluminum stock.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pI...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7v...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ld...=w1300-h977-no

I also chopped down my dipstick, it was obnoxiously high as it was designed to have the engine cover and large air intake box installed so I cut it down so it's still functional but out of the way, this also freed up some room for more direct Provent hose routing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0n...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qH...=w1300-h977-no

For vacuum source I use the OEM plastic pipe that runs along the valve cover, I bored it out so a 10orb to 12an adapter could be threaded in. I am happy with this as it can be removed and the system can 100% be reverted to stock relatively easily, I don't plan to do this but it's nice having the option.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Gd...=w1300-h977-no

I modded the Provent as others have done to regulate the strong vacuum on the system. You can also see the clear hose in the background which I use for my drain, it's plugged a ziptied away by the transmission splash shield. Some have ran this back into the dipstick but I prefer to drain the oil myself so I can see how effective the system is.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jT...=w1300-h977-no

While I really wanted the OCC to be out of sight, given it's size and the layout of the engine bay I couldn't find a decent solution even while exploring relocating items like the HVAC coolant lines and valve. Where my Provent has a fairly prominant location, it is very accessible and it does visually block some unsightly vacuum and fuel lines just behind it. This location also allowed for fairly clean and direct hose routing.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/l4...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5t...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jK...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f6...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IU...=w1300-h977-no

With the X5 in the garage for a bit I also repaired the boost leak on my ATM intercooler up pipe
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gp...=w1300-h977-no

Installed X6 OEM black grills
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1I...=w1300-h977-no

Replaced the cabin air filter
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gt...=w1300-h977-no

Clay-barred the paint
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kJ...=w1300-h977-no

....and cleaned the leather
BEFORE
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yY...=w1300-h977-no

AFTER
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IE...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sQ...=w1300-h977-no

Here are some additional pics!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HE...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R2...=w1300-h977-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hr...=w1300-h977-no

Looks great! That's some serious stopping power now. Engine bay is OEM+++++. Upgrade cluster is a must now for me after seeing yours.

How would I go about removing the engine vanity cover and air cleaner lower plenum as well to free up space and overall show the intake manifold like yours? Rerouted the air intake system to the passenger side?

Sorry I don't follow your question.

Sorry for confusion. I went back a couple pages and found out.

I believe on Page 8, you removed the OEM stock intake system (and beauty cover). Fabricated your own intake. I think you started a separate thread for it, so I'll search for it

ZL1 wheels repaired and powder coated Prismatic "Graphite Black" it's essentially a black with a fine metallic flake and a satin finish. I liked the way the OEM GM satin black finish looked so I used that as a base and I figured the slight metallic finish of the graphite black would compliment the Platinum Grey Metallic on the body. The powder coat turned out to be slightly different than I was envisioning but overall I am very happy.

With my front left sidewall damaged and the other tires on lower tread it was time to replace the tires. I jumped from a 295/40/20 square setup of Pirelli Scorpion Verde to a slightly taller set of Hankook Ventus ST RH06 in 295/45/20. I knew they would be tight and after much research, measuring, and guesstimating I still wasn't confident they would fit. I was relieved to find out the fit perfectly.

I was going between these Hankook RH06s in 295/45 or doing the Michelin Pilot 4 SUV in 305/40. I run Hankook Evos on all my other cars and appreciate the value the tires offer; good grip, quiet ride, adequate tread life, and a fair price. My personal experience combined with the reviews I read were enough for me to give the tires a shot. The Hankooks are about 1/3 the price as the Michelins too.

For the way I use my X5 this 295/45 20x11 square setup is perfect. Given the limitations of the vehicle, tire options, DXC, etc. I can't think of anything I would change. Jumping back up to a taller and heavier tire does zap some of the acceleration performance but the added comfort of the beefy tires is welcomed and worth the trade off.

I am glad the X5 is back from my wheel guy but it was REAL fun dailying the E61 again, never a dull moment.
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Garage space was taken by my e39 touring which is getting engine work and a manual swap so I had to get creative in the drive way with 2 jack stands and removing 2 wheels at a time to swap tires. lol
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Tada
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No rubbing except at full-lock to the right. I will heat, melt, mold this vent further forward. It eats up a lot of space but I can work with it.
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I love tight fitment. Looking at the X5 from afar it looks fairly normal but poke your head in the wheel well and you can see where all the research, calculations ....and luck paid off! lol
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A look at the tread pattern.
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Is that an air shock in the front?
Also, what size of a wheel spacer would you need to clear a larger tire in the front?
Like a 32" tire for instance: E71 BMW X6M Dirt Edition by Manhart Racing | BMW Car Tuning

Hard to say since it depends on wheel width, offset, tire size and brand.

Did you have any clearance issues with the 295/40R20 Pirelli Scorpions? I was thinking I might source a pair of 20x11 OEM wheels, and run a square set up using those tires. I was wonder how large a spacer would be needed to clear all of the suspension geometry and/or have the outer sidewall sit flush with the fenders front and rear

I'm also quite intrigued by the Phantom filter you have. I've tried looking it up, but I couldn't get anything.

With the Phantom, I have been quiet as the company was in the process of getting the product launch together but it's taking them a while and then Covid hit and I am not sure where they stand. Last I heard they were doing data acquisition with their newly acquired test vehicle (E70 X5D).

I had no clearance issues with the 295/40/20. Clearance and spacers depends on the wheel offset.

Got it.

The OEM 11" 214 wheels have an offset of +37. Do you currently have spacers?

Mine are +43. I run a 5mm up front and 30mm in the rear.

It has been about a month since the last update and the X5 hasn't received any fancy upgrades or major maintenance, instead it has been put to work.

Here are some updated thoughts on a few items. The Brembo BBK is but the Ceramic Hawk pads I purchased squeal like crazy with a little bit of heat in them, upon further research this seems to be fairly common. The temporary solution others use is to put a TON of grease on the back of the pad which will only work for a short amount of time. No thanks. I will be replacing the pads when I have free time.

The Hankook tires are great, especially for the price. Cornering grip isn't the best but considering how I usually drive the X5 they are well suited for cruising + occasional spirited driving. In general they roll smooth and quiet but do pick up some textures and small undulations in the road periodically. It's a bit odd because I am used to a tire either being very communicative to what it's rolling over of it's a mushy/smooth ride, it's usually one or the other. The Hankooks are quiet 95% of the time but do transmit some vibrations/hums depending on the surface. It's not a big deal or a major annoyance, I just find it peculiar since it is selective on the what the tire transmits.

Cargo Box. This thing was installed for a trip out to AZ in which I also had 2 bikes on a hitch rack. I am a large human and ride a large bike so my handlebars, seat, and tires protrude over and around the perimeter of the X5 and add a bit of drag, much more than what "normal" people experience with their average sized bikes. I was a bit disappointed to see such underwhelming mileage, I was seeing 22-23mpg where I was expecting closer to 30mpg.

During this past winter trip I achieved 30mpg for a tank, driving in snow, with the cargo box, on snow tires, and bouncing around between 3,000 and 8,500ft. So I always thought the cargo box wasn't adding too much drag. Since this winter trip I have added the BBK and taller/heavier Hankook tires which both add some unsprung weight so I was kicking myself that I ruined the fuel efficiency of the X5 with the brake and tires (still worth it!).

The last couple weeks I have been moving into a new house and once the main move was over I took the cargo box off and while running some errands doing an out and back on the freeway 65-75mph, soly highway driving I was able to hit 31mpg one way and 36mpg on the return. Nice. My cluster mpg read out is usually within .5mpg of actual mileage so I use it as a fairly accurate reference. There are many variables which can impact fuel efficiency so this isn't a hard science but my guesstimate for mpg loss due to cargo box (at highway speeds) has gone from 1-2mpg up to 5-6mpg.

Anyway, here are some pics of the recent adventures.

Riding San Juan Trail in Southern Orange County
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Always using HPR when I can.
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In the mountains for sunrise. Noble Canyon Trail, Mount Laguna.
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My buddies bike matched the brake calipers!
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Scoured a deal on some lightly used SwissTrax Ribtrax!
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Fun Fact: The tiles were previously installed in a hanger which was featured on the Swisstrax website.
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Working on the new house, replacing a warped 20ft 2x4. Aka Activate Joust Mode. lol
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Just a pic!
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The last items to be moved from my old house was my E39 Touring project, "DAS VADR" The goal was to get it running before the move buuuuuuuuuuut that didn't happen so in the engine and trans went with the essential components so I could roll and trailer the chassis. If anyone wants more info on the build you can Google "Das Vadr E39 Touring" and links should show in the results.

This was 3 days before the move :)
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It wasn't easy loading the wagon myself and with $50 worth of Harbor Freight tools but it worked (barely).
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PSA: Air Suspension is awesome
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Unloading at the new house
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Reunited at last! ...now time to finish the garage remodel so I can pull the E39 in and finish it up!
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Nice pictures. Always good to see some shots of your fleet.

The X5D has been fulfilling it's role as the diesel workhorse running errands, hauling stuff, and dropping the hammer on unsuspecting "sporty" vehicles around town.

Here is a collection of random pics sprinkled in with some meaningful updates in chronological order.

Random pic 1
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Tailgate FTW
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20' 2x4s to reinforce my attic
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Propane! This high-noon lighting shows the (sorta) flush fitment.
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Shredding
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I have decided that my next project will be a M57 powered, RWD, AT, E61 Touring. In addition to the E61 I will probably buy a e90 335D donor for the engine, trans, and misc parts. There will be a shipment of 535d specific parts from Europe like wiring harnesses, proprietary cooling, ducting, etc.

The dream was to make a BEAST AWD diesel wagon that could handle repeated launches. Unfortunately the front drivetrain on the 530xD is shared with the E61 535xi which doesn't like high loads especially at lower ride heights so it would be a ticking timebomb with the M57. I explored retrofitting the AWD from the E70 X5 which is much stronger but the larger ACT500 TC won't fit the E61 which is paired with an ATC300; a custom transmission tunnel would allow it to work but I am not interested in tackling that at this point. Although not as dreamy as an AWD diesel wagon the RWD configuration is the easier, simpler, and more reliable option -this is why I converted my 535xi to RWD.

Of course with RWD the issue becomes traction and the wagon will make somewhere between 600-700tq to the wheels, I also wanted a STRONG drivetrain which for me means OEM M5 drivetrain with a 210mm BMW LSD. Installing an LSD into a stock 188mm E60 open diff works but 210mm diffs are better :) Fitting M5 drivetrain to an E61 is easy, it all bolts up with the exception of the driveshaft which needs to be modified. The tricky part is getting a 210mm LSD with a diesel friendly final drive. E60 M5 comes with a 3.62 and a 535d comes with 2.56 lol. BMW 210mm diffs are now only found on M cars and certain older heavy-duty vehicles like V12 7 series, etc. and with all the gasoline cars in the US it's rare to find a ring and pinion that isn't in the 3.00-4.00:1 range. AFAIK BMW never fitted a 210mm diff on a diesel vehicle, ever, they all had the smaller 188 cases.

Through furious research and some luck I was able to track down a 2.65 210mm ring/pinion. Originally equipped on an E31 850i, V12, with a manual trans. This was a US-only import and after looking up the production numbers there are only about 300 in existence and through luck/fate I was talking with an eBay seller who had a 2.91 R/P and I mentioned the E31 and he said he had one not listed!!!! Sick. This was the missing link that allows me to build an essentially bulletproof differential, that has an OEM LSD, and near-perfect ratio for a diesel wagon. It also means I can run the complimentary M5 drivetrain which means more durability and peace of mind!

Anyway, the 3.62 I currently have in my white N54-E61 makes for very short gears and I have been meaning to "upgrade" to something taller. The E92 M3 has a 3.84 in the manuals and a 3.15 if equipped with the DCT. 3.15 is just about perfect for my intended use SOOOOOOOOOO I picked up a 3.15 LSD from a M3 w/ 43,000 miles. This will go into the N54 wagon and the M5 LSD will come out, be rebuilt with the 2.65 R/P, and wait patiently for the diesel E61 project.

The M3 LSD was located 90 miles north of me and it was a nice opportunity to do some highway cruising and check out MPG numbers. Normally my impressive fuel economy just gets decimated while driving around town since I drive hard. This highway testing got extended as the dismantler gave me the wrong diff at first so I did the drive x2 so about 350 miles when it's all said and done. The first leg I got 32mpg and return was 34mpg, highway only. On the following 2 trips averages were right around 33mpg and this is driving smoothly in the 60-70mph range. With some hard city driving the X5 was sitting with 1/2 a tank of fuel left, ~370 miles covered, and an 31mpg average, not bad!

A celebratory pic bringing the M3 LSD home, little did I know it was the WRONG one. lol
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Better look at the beefy boys
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I will do my best to break it
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Enjoying the highway MPG before it's destroyed by spirited driving.
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I had 2 oil leaks that were destroying my driveway. One was from o-rings that were failing on the vacuum pump, the other was my connection between my oil catch can outlet that connected to my dip stick via a T-fitting. The connection was leaking and it was due to Evan-error. Although an actual dipstick > electronic oil level, the X5 has both so for the sake of a clean and secure install I deleted my dipstick and plumbed the OCC output directly into the oil pan via the dipstick. I cut down the remaining dipstick, bored out the top, and pressed in a barbed joiner fitting. I have a 1-way check valve and it's working very well so far.
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Due to the leaking vacuum pump the front of the block got saturated which assisted the AC belt in shredding itself. After the leak was fixed I cleaned everything with a power washer.
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Meyle HD thrust arms fitting with monoball bushings. A bit of a bugger to remove, you need to turn the steering about 30 degrees towards the side you are working on and gently push the arm reward, upward, and inward to get them out.
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My buddy picked up a nicely modded F10 M5. He replaced his manual single turbo 600awhp E90 with a 600whp F10 M5. Cool car but honestly I thought it was going to be faster. lol. I thought it would destroy my 550whp E61 but after driving it, I think it would be a really close race!
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Gotta link for those monoballs? Considered some when I did my arms a while back but ended up going with the powerflex polys as they were much cheaper than the monos that came with the thrust arm. It looks like you actually pressed yours in though.

And looking forward to see how your diesel wagon project comes out.

This is the guy who makes the monoballs: [email protected]

I bought new Lemforder arms and had them drop shipped to him, he then presses in the new monoballs and forwards the complete arms to you. I recommend his service.

Things are looking up for the X5. With a winter trip on the horizon it's finally time to install the 3.15 differential, to match my rear and complete the 3.64 to 3.15 conversion. I have been running the rear 3.15 for about 9 months in RWD mode and it's great, now time to finalize and flash back to AWD. There are some other parts which will be installed in addition:


- Upgraded Level 10/Sutphin Tuning Torque Converter
- 3.15 front diff (to match rear 3.15 and reactivate 4WD)
- Brake pads
- All new suspension F/R to compliment the just-installed monoball thrust arms.
- Mayle HD wishbones w/ adjustable camber
- Replacement AC belt
- Replacement pano roof surround
- Diesel Extreme injector cleaner
- Oil change

Items not pictured:
- Replacement exterior driver door handle
- Repair pano roof partitions
- Repair Vacuum pump seal (still leaking)

I am excited to observe the difference going from RWD with the sloppy and bullied stock torque converter back to AWD with the upgraded converter. My Dragy data shows about .5g during a launch with my current setup and that is with the tires hooking up well, not absolute grip but not bad all things considered. The Dragy data from another tuned diesel X5 with similar mods shows 1.1g from a dig which is awesome. With my 3.15 gearing and larger tires I am assuming my performance won't be as ferocious but it will still be a hoot. Response/driveability around town should also be much more pleasant.
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Finally put the ZL1/Hankook combo on a scale. The tall tires have a very obvious weight penalty and offset the light ~27lb 20x11 ZL1 wheels.
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Hike in the rain with the doggos.
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Before my winter road trip I was able to get some maintenance items addressed but not all. Torque converter and suspension still on to do list. Here is what has been accomplished.

- Front 3.15 installed, 4WD flashed
- Leaking vacuum pump cover resolved, hopefully for good this time
- Leaking coolant line deleted
- New brake pads
- Oil change
- 2020 iDrive maps update
- Driver door handle replaced

"Wrench Mode"
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3.15 front diff serviced with fresh fluid, axle seal, and o-ring
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The front diff swap was fairly straight forward, however some bonehead wrenching added a lot of unnecessary frustration. When lowering the subframe I assume my mistake was not dropping it little by little evenly which made the the subframe get hung up on the locating pins on the frame and it wouldn't hang freely. It took me WAY TOO LONG to figure this out but once I did a gentle tap on the subframe from a sledge hammer and iron rod from above freed up the subframe. By this point I had already removed the driver engine mount and mount bracket which was easy enough BUT getting the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block turned out to be a blind, awkward, and frustrating endeavor. patience and presistence prevailed but hours or time were lost. Live and learn .....or make mistakes, forget, and repeat. lol

The front diff does NOT come out this way
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...it comes out this way
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Driveway divas
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My multi-use BMW special tool, great for propping up the passenger side front axle during front diff removal and great for supporting the subframe.
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While under the vehicle I noticed some dried coolant on the top of the engine splash panel. Turns out it was caused by my own carelessness when deleting my EGR cooler and looping my coolant system, tension pushed the hose up towards the belt which was able to rub (I assume under high engine load), it looks like I caught it just in time since this could ruin a road trip very quickly.
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The damaged coolant line is one that Ts into another coolant pipe between the radiator and the engine and then runs down and up behind the low pressure turbo and goes into the engine block. Doing further research it looks like the 335D doesn't have this coolant line at all, the engine block may not even have the cooling port. Instead of replacing the damaged coolant line I deleted it all together by buying a coolant blind plug for the front connection and a Vibrant reinforced coolant cap for the rear connection. If/when I remove the low pressure turbo at that time I will remove the engine block coolant connection and convert it to a plug by welding it shut.

Front connection BEFORE
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Front connection AFTER w/ blind plug
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Coolant line out
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HPS caps
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Rear connection BEFORE
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Rear connection AFTER
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My ATM ASV elbow had a fine oil residue on it. It was a bit odd since the silicone was covered in it but there was no obvious leak points at connections.
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I removed, cleaned, and inspected the elbow and found this on the on the underside where the silicone bends. I haven't noticed any drop in boost or weird boost-leak noises (but I haven't data logged) but I assume there is a tiny hole allowing the oil vapor to escape. I haven't had the best luck with the ATM charge pipe connections so this is more motivation to build a custom charge pipe setup.
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Vacuum pump cap was continuing to leak after a new set of o-rings so I cleaned everything and applied thin layer of silicone for added security.
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Driver door handle had an annoying paint chip ever since we got the vehicle and I finally found a comfort access door handle in PGM for a reasonable price on eBay. It's not flawless but it's in much better condition than the old handle.
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Clearance between ASV elbow and radiator shroud was too close for comfort so clearanced it a bit
BEFORE
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AFTER
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With the front diff installed I flashed back to 4WD
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While updating the maps it was a 1+ hour upload so I hooked up the beast, this things can hold a perfect 14.3v for a full vehicle (all modules) overnight flash so it's not breaking a sweat here
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My Hawk ceramic pads were squealing like mofos and the after hearing my complains the company sent me a set of 5.0 pads to try out. Their rep recommended I bed them aggressively and get them hot enough to smell. No problem, after a good thrashing they were smoking and I used an infrared thermometer to check rotor temps (400f) Potato pic
If these 5.0 pads don't work well (and don't squeal) then I have some EBC reds to try.
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Cleaned and fitted with the cargo box and bike rack!
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The cargo box is a life saver. It fit 2 snowboards, boots, bindings, snow gear, snow shoes, hiking shoes. MTB gear, helmets, bike rack, misc clothing, bike tools, misc tools, and more.
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The X5 was put to work in the month of December; road tripping through California, driving up (and down) to Tahoe in snow, many mountain biking trips and lot's of aggressive driving on tight mountain roads! :)

After the trip the X5 received various upgrades with the focus being on the interior.

Here are some pics from the winter trip....

Dawn patrol in Napa Valley
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Aggressive mountain driving was aggressive. This was from driving the Oakvilla Grade which connects Napa Valley to Santa Rosa. A rough and tight road. Had to dial it back a bit.
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Not the best pic but my first roller in the X5!
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Visiting my good friend up in Truckee. He hates that I call the X5 a "truck" since he owns a Duramax buuuut I tell him, "it's got a tailgate, it's a truck!" lol
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Always fun to see the people who have no idea what they are doing and try to navigate snow in FWD economy cars on crap tires.
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Bikes and Beer in Berkeley
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Fun fact about the 1Up bike rack is it has 3 positions: down to carry bikes, up for storage, and a 45 degree option which allows just enough clearance for the tailgate to come down. Nice
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More dawn patrol
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Onto the upgrades! My X5 came with heated wheel but I ditched the feature since I found a nice deal on a Napa M sport wheel with paddles. I finally came across a deal on a heated X5M wheel in nice condition. The X5M uses the same paddles as the E9X M3 so there are more aftermarket options for paddles and I went with a generic set of aluminum paddles. The look is a bit aggressive but I wanted a longer paddle and these are aesthetically more pleasing than some of the other options.

Annoyingly the OEM paddles were not communicating through the steering wheel controls so they needed to be spliced into the wiring up stream. I pulled some OEM connectors from the junkyard so the paddles are PNP.
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Before/After
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Installing P3 vent gauge which has a bunch of useful metrics
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The access panel on the side of the dash is a great place to tuck the controller.
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I FINALLY got around to upgrading the interior lights to LED.
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As most of you E70 owners are aware, the console trim wears poorly and I couldn't justify the $120 price for a new OEM piece and stumbled upon this cover on Amazon. Fit/finish looked good and for $23 it was worth testing out.
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Time to update the Nav screen and interior trim. Screen is a WAKAA and I sourced some OEM Shadow Brushed Aluminum trim from Latvia.
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Little hack when working on the back of the door panels: do this!
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End result. I love it. Next and maybe the last big interior mod will be Merino leather dash doors and hopefully I can find a pair of Merino comfort seats. I have the massaging/cooled seats and the leather sucks (so does the cooling).
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Killer content as always! How is that Wakaa unit working out for you?

Fantastic work! I've been debating both the upgrade screen and that vent gauge ever since I got my X5 in Summer 19 and I think you'll be the reason I pull the trigger. Some of these companies need to start paying you for marketing for them!

Question for you, since I see an Engine support bar: Some of the people in the NABDO groups frown upon using an engine support bar, but I've got deletes planned for this weekend on a lift and will need some way to support the engine with the mount arm out and the subframe dropped. Do you feel that the engine bar adequately supports the engine when you're working? I'll be on a lift without a jack handy, so trying to cover my bases here.

Thanks!

Edit: Could you please post a picture of where the support bar sits?

^I didn't trust an engine support during my ongoing transmission replacement. The plastic fenders as a support scared me. I am using an engine hoist instead but since your going to be on a lift... Won't help you much.

Yeah, the plastic fenders aren't reassuring, but it looks like Evan's support bar is supported inboard of the fenders and fore of the strut towers. I'm wondering if there's something under the hood I've missed that might actually be supportive for the few hours it needs to be supported for the DPF removal and pipe install

I'm sure he supported it somehow.

I just couldn't find something I was satisfied with. Everything looked plastic from the fenders to the headlight mounting brackets, etc. Especially since I knew mine would be supported above for at least a few weeks. Hopefully he chimes in and has pics of where he used the engine bar. I have that harbor freight bar too and was originally planning to use it for the job.

Yeah, I could totally understand your unwillingness if the time period was WEEKS. Since this would all be done in the span of a day(this coming saturday), I'm hoping he chimes in soon so i can get a better idea of where everything is. HF is right down the street and I wanna make sure i get one before this weekend

Awesome build man, just went through all 13 pages. I just picked up a 2011 35D and am already seeing some mods i'd like to incorporate into my build. Are you on IG? I'd love to follow.

Thank you for pointing out especially:

- The leaky cowl. I live in Oregon and it rains A LOT. I wasn't sure exactly where these pieces fail and now I do.

- Fixing the scratched up nav screen, though, I would enjoy a further detailed walkthrough of cleaning it up.

Thanks!

It works but not as I would hope. Connectivity is a pain as it doesn't auto connect and you manually have to select via BT or 1/2 of that time have to "forget" the BT device and rediscover it and accept 3 prompts on your phone, it's a bit of fumbling every time that shouldn't happen. I also get some random audio cuts. There are some other odd things like buttons controlling the incorrect thing when you are in the BMW interface but those are the main complaints.

I can get the support bar to sit on the steel part of the chassis that runs through the engine bay to the radiator area, I would never put the bar on plastic or headlight parts, its on the metal beam where the grounding connection is and IIRC one or two of the feet sit on the ribbed/stamped section of the steel that sticks up like a spine. It works for me but takes some fiddling. I would have no issues leaving it like that for a long time. Also, M57 is only 440lbs or something like that so it's not some heavy beast, its more or less the same weight as BMWs other FI i-6 engines (my N54 is 400lbs).

Glad it is useful. As for the screen restoration it's quite simple and IMO greater detail isn't necessary, simply remove it and polish it. You can use elbow grease but I hit it with a DA polisher for a few seconds and that was that. You could remove, polish, buff, and reinstall the screen in under 5 minutes easily and I'm not exaggerating.

Glad you just mentioned this, I was about to pull the trigger on a Wakaa system :(

Awesome build, just went thru the pages. Subscribed.

As I am researching all things towing regarding the X5 and the probable Sanger V237 boat purchase I wanted to get an updated weight of the X5. Notable changes since I weighed it last are the Brembo BBK and Camaro ZL1 wheels + tires.

With a full tank of fuel, no driver, and no cargo the X5 came in at 5,100lbs.
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I removed all the "essential" cargo that is stored under the floor and I lug around on a daily basis. All this stuff came in at ~70lbs. Much more useful than the 100lbs of folded 3rd row seat it replaced.
1. Rear seat protector for the pups
2. Shopping Bags
3. Emergency roadside kit I made with hand tools, sockets, tire plug, air compressor, and emergency First Aid kit
4. Microfiber towels
5. OEM BMW Diesel specific (unlocking) funnel
6. Glass Cleaner & Quick Detailer
7. Changing poncho (For MTB)
8. Small changing mat (MTB)
9. Emergency kit for the pups
10. Mobile Car Jumper / Emergency Battery
11. DC-AC inverter
12. High strength towing straps
13. Fox seat protector
14. 1,000 Ratchet Straps x8
15. Hitch ball, hitch locks, and OEM cargo rail eyelets
16. Manual
17. Jumper Cables
18. Extra Oil
19. Shop Towels
20. Gallon of water
21. Tire pressure gauge
22. LED illuminated frisbees, not 1 but 2!
23. Samsung tablet + OTG usb + K+DCAN
24. USB charging Flashlight
25. Seatbelt security straps
26. BIG ASS ZIPTIES
27. Ice scraper
28. Bike lock cable
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Elastic on K&N dry charger failed and I will be trying to get a replacement.
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I wanted more light in the cargo area of the X5 so I added some OEM-style LED puddle lights to the D pillars. The bezel which once housed the 3rd row seat belts made for a great location to mount the lights. Tapped into the OEM wiring for the tailgate light which was conveniently located right behind the passenger D pillar.
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Here is the end product. Exposure is locked for both photos. Very happy with the result.
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Here are a couple random recent photos.
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This is mainly a picture update but there are some exciting things on the horizon. The pile of X5D parts in the garage is growing. The X5 will have some substantial towing duties in the not-so-distant future when a boat comes into the picture so I am collecting a few additional mods/maintenance items to make this a well sorted towing beast.

Sutphin Torque Converter
Suspension control arms, bushings, etc. F/R
Eibach springs F
Arnott air bags R
Koni FSD struts F/R
PPE high capacity transmission oil pan

In search of a better ride quality from what my H&Rs offer I had Eibach springs on hand and with the current 20% off promotion for the Konis I figured this was the time to give them a shot. I patiently waited to see if I could find a deal on KW V3s but that never happened so Eibach + Koni FSD seems like the best option.

The trans will get a big overhaul with the upgraded torque converter (thinking about the upgraded valve body too) the high capacity PPE pan will need a custom solution to connect the replaceable filter to the OEM oil pick up. IN addition to holding more fluid the pan has a bung for a temp sensor which is AWESOME because I can wire that directly to my P3 vent gauge and I can monitor live trans temps. If needed I can plumb in an additional trans cooler to regulate temps, The logical choice is to mount a radiator under the passenger headlight to mirror the driver side.

Any-who, exciting stuff. Preventative maintenance gets me all fired up.


Here are some pics from a recent trip to Flagstaff and Sedona AZ.
Funny back story, my in-laws used to own a Toyota Highlander, a Toyota 4Runner, and a Porsche Cayenne and now (they say, it's me fault :) they sold all those and now have a 2020 X7 xdrive40i and 2021 X5 xdrive45e.

Both are awesome but the X5 is particularly impressive, although smaller the X5 has 300lbs of added weight and the same air suspension system which makes for an unbelievable ride quality, it's better than the X7. Add in the ability to run it in all electric mode which makes it deafly silent and it's a really impressive ride. I am a huge fan of the vehicle but I feel BMW did an injustice by limiting the electric range in the US market to 30miles, in the Eu they get 50miles. The charging rate is also PAINFULLY slow, for a full charge on the US model it takes ~24 hours. Bump the range up to 50 miles and reduce charge to 12 hours and it's a slam dunk.

If you look at all the fuel economy data on Fuelly for the 45e the tank average for all owners is 41mpg, not bad for a 5,600 vehicle with 390hp and 443tq
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Averaging 26mpg highway @70mph with the cargo box and bike, not bad, not great.
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Some mild but rough off-roading to arrive at the Schnebly Hill Overlook. The taller 45 aspect tires were very welcomed on the terrain but 40psi tire pressure and H&R springs were far from ideal.
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Great build and great color!!

The X5 had a big weekend under the wrench!

✅ Oil and filter change
✅ K&N filter cleaned, oiled, and new dry charger
✅ Eibach front springs
✅ Arnott bags
✅ Koni Active sturts
✅ Control arms, wishbone, ball joints, and integral links
✅ Revised vehicle coding
✅ Exterior washed and leather seats/SW cleaned
✅ New aftermarket flares which are shitty but not as shitty as the last set.

It started with a wash
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Some of the suspension goodies.
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Nothing beats a good driveway for wrenching
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H&R vs Eibach are almost identical in length, H&R looks to be slightly thicker and also has an additional 1/2 coil
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Fronts installed
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Oil change. Hopping on the FCP lifetime oil train.
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You can see how long the stanchions are on the Konis, Konis have 6" of travel and the old KYBs only had 3".
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With my non-rear air strut mounts and custom spacers it was easy to accommodate the Konis (which are not listed as fitting a X5 w/ 3rd row), simply remove the spacer. The Konis are compressed just over 3" at static ride height which means there is just under 3" of travel to play with.
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Took the opportunity to clean the wheels
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Rear buttoned up. I wasn't able to get the ball joints done but I have the proper tool on the way.
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Option 1: replace air bags BEFORE they fail
Option 2: Neglect your airbags and when they fail quickly go to the internet and complain, followed by possibly making a bad situation worse and converting the bags to springs.
I chose #1
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Doggos!
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K&N before
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After cleaning and oil, better but not perfect.
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Time to get dirty
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Bonus! I am a sucker for unique mods and especially OEM retrofits so this project is very exciting. What you are looking at is a 3.15 electronic LSD from a 20,000 mile X6, F85 X5M flanges and axles, ICM and QMVH modules. Once the flanges are swapped the diff is essentially the same unit found on the F85 X5M. My research tells me I should have success integrating this system into my E70 which is very exciting but it won't come without some work. More to come.
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Good times continue for the X5D.

It looks like the axle-back exhaust will need to be reworked after the F85 differential is fitted.
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New pano roof weather stripping. Unlike my 08' E61 it looks like the 12' X5 came with the updated version but it still shows 9+ years of use.
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Plasti Dip on the front/rear bumper trim was refreshed since it was showing wear after a couple years of use.
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Resolved an annoying vibration caused by contact between the rear dust shield and caliper brackets, can't believe I didn't catch this during the original install...
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With the proper tool I was able to complete the suspension refresh and install new rear ball joints.
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Here is a picture of me installing the ball joint INCORRECTLY.. lol :lol:
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Accessing air compressor to refresh the silica gel that filters the exhaust air.
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Tryin to repair an issue of the sun-partitions being disconnected and rattling. At first I thought I fixed it, then I broke it, then got it repaired even though it should still be broken. More on this later. What a pain.
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Upgraded Torque converter install time!
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Although the trans fluid only had a few thousand miles on it, with the converter getting fresh fluid I took the opportunity to flush the trans again to clear out as much old fluid as possible. Glad I did! New trans cooler o-rings too.
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Oil around in the downpipe, rugh rogh.
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Driveshaft refreshed with new CSB and guibo
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New OEM windshield. For the record I have worked with Safelite two times for the E70 and E61 and have had a great experience with their install techs.
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New OEM engine mounts. These made a HUGE difference in cabin NVH, especially at idle.
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Splash shields cleaned again after being coated with front diff oil and red dirt from Arizona.
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New tool to install transmission/transfer case mount
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Out with the old
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In with the new
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I had the rear diff pulled and F85 axles installed as I was anticipating to install the F85 diff. I was having troubles removing the output flanges so I outsourced it to a local shop and I was expecting them to have success in a day or so but after a week and even having a local BMW foreman come out they were unable to complete the job. But here is a pic of the X5 patiently waiting ...for nothing. lol

It's a bit comforting when I get stumped, I outsource to a competent shop, and they also get stumped, it doesn't help with progress but it's nice to know I wasn't way off track. After waiting and wasting a week, we had a road trip to Arizona planned so I reverted to the basic diff.
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I took matters back into my own hands and ordered a 5.5lb slide hammer. The hammer itself wasn't enough and I needed to tap/hammer in a couple wedge steaks to put the flange under tension and then with 3-5 big boy hammers the flange finally released.
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The retaining clip did it's job almost too well...
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X6 vs F85 output flanges
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E70 X5D axle vs F85 X5M axle
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Great idea with the cardboard box to hold the pieces you are painting.

Beautiful 35d. What type of numbers are you pushing out?

Thanks. It makes 370whp 530wtq but those will go up as I am currently installing a hybrid turbo

Doggos were watched by in-laws for 2 weeks while we did some traveling, it's nice to have them back in the garage!
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Current project(s)
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I can't stand working on dirty cars so I like to clean before I begin and clean as I go.
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First R90 HPFP install
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Next High Pressure (small) turbo rebuild, no issues just took the opportunity to refresh with Melett CHRA.
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Big boy (low pressure) turbo out
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Tim's Stg 3 vs OEM
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All cleaned up and ready for install
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With the turbos out I deleted one of the X5's coolant lines (which was already "deleted" and capped. Plugging the block is a much better solution.
Before
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After
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So much room for activities!
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...Not anymore!
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Priming small turbo with oil. After this photo the syringe was sticky and I successfully squirted most of the oil all over the turbo, so much for cleaning....
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Optimize everything! With the turbo inlet now larger I took a sanding wheel to the plastic turbo inlet pipe to bore it out a bit. The rubber gasket which sits between this pipe and the turbo is still larger than the turbo inlet so this is moot/negligible mod but it ain't hurtin nuthin! +1hp for sure!
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Next valve cover gasket. Injectors came out easily which was a relief as some can be a nightmare due to neglect and water ingress.
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Injectors cleaned with new sealing elements.
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Valve cover sparkly after a power wash. There was all kinds of oily reside and grime, carbon on the intake runners was also cleaned. intake ports in the head showed slight carbon on 4-6 but nothing worth correcting at this point.
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Play bonehead games, win bonehead prizes. Making a to-do list is useless if you don't read the list. I wrote down "clock and tighten HP turbo" and proceeded to NOT. lol.. Meaning the CHRA wasn't fully torqued down with the inducer housing. Thankfully all the tolerances are small and all the other connecting pipes, etc. holding the turbos together kept things together but it was only after a test drive and I noticed some smoking I remembered to torque the 4 10mm bolts. This process required removing the exhaust manifold banjo fitting so I could remove the heat shield and access the bolts. I assume heat played into it but when removing the banjo bolt from the hot manifold the bolt decided to strip on the way out. Fun. Bolt was toast ("special order" item from BMW so I am waiting a couple days for replacement) and it left material in the manifold threads.

The solution was: using a pick, tweezers, and vacuum to carefully remove the metal and then chase the threads with a M12x1.5 die. Always fun to create metal shard just up stream from your fancy new turbo. Meh.
Thankfully I had just enough to get the die and handle into position, if this wasn't the case then this bonehead moment would have been much worse. Patience prevailed as I was able to clean the threads which are now ready for the new bolt.
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It's not all rainbows and sunshine. My new turbo setup is still smoking as the previous ones were, at idle and under initial load. My old turbos were performing well according to data logs as are the current turbos, albeit not running optimally since I am still running a Malone 2.9 tune with the hybrid so there is a lot of smoke under load. After a little driving I notice oil coming from the LP turbo but I doubt it's the turbo itself. Since the VCG replaced I will next play with my PCV Catch can setup and revert it back to stock to see fi that helps. Crankcase pressure might be pushing the oil out. Ironically My stock turbos started smoking when I make the swtich from 5w-40 Rotella to Liqui Moly 5w-30? so if the PCV/OCC doesn't resolve the smoking I may try switching oil again. Further diagnosing would be to do a compression test. The X5 feels healthy and strong so I doubt there is an issue here but it would be to confirm anyway.

DDE is off to BRR for tuning. I was torn between sticking with Malone or going with BRR. I have nothing bad to say about Malone but I have seen some other hybrid X5s post data comparing the Malone vs BRR tune and the difference was significant, ~1 second different in the 1/4 mile. BRR also has experience tuning twin HPFP setups as well as the triple turbo setup Santjer Performance is developing. If I go down this high-output rabbit hole BRR is the obvious choice so I decided to make the switch now.

Can't wait see what this thing does when dialed in! In addition to power the fuel economy should also get a little bump.

We have some nice updates to the engine, transmission, and rear differential.

With my DDE off for bench flashing I took advantage of having the X5 up in the air and inoperable. First was diagnosing the smoking and oil coming from the brand new hybrid turbo. Aside from mild-moderate smoking while driving I also noticed oil coming from the downpipe at the v-band and also lower flange. In addition there was oil dripping from the LP turbo but I believe that was an untorqued return line.
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I removed the HP turbo to inspect it and have a look into the manifold. Both turbos felt perfect spinning freely and with zero unwanted shaft play. Oil lines were also removed to double/triple check no blockages. I ended up buying 3 new feed lines and replaced the 2 accessible ones. Shit picture but this is one of the original return lines, very clean and clear.
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HP turbo off looking minty as it should
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Peeking down the manifold I noticed some oil around the exhaust inducer.
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What caught my attention was the crack in the casting which was adjacent to the inducer (and oil). I called Tim at this point to explain my symptoms, what I have done, and what I see. He explained most if not all M57 LP turbos have that crack in the casting, he said it usually happens in the first 20k of use and is inconsequential but he was happy to get the turbo back for inspection if I wanted. Tim also suggested I target my PCV system next as the likely cause.
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Sooo off comes my Provent setup and on goes the little cyclonic thing BMW fitted from the factory. I checked the OCC for blockage or a faulty one-way valve but all was good. More on the oil saga later....
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My upgrade valve body from Rod Sutphin arrived along with the DDE from BRR so it was time to open up the transmission.
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Popped the DDE in
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It's nice when you drain fluid and it's this clean.
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Old pan/filter with the magnet swipe. This had ~20k on it.
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My mechatronics seals and sleeves have plenty of life so I left them alone, *gasp* I know, I didn't perform preventative maintenance!
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With the PPE high capacity oil pan being a flop the next best upgrade for the trans was the OEM e70 X5M oil pan. The X5M pan and filter are two separate items where OEM X5D is one unit. I also bought new ZF transmission bolts, they are 8.8 where the previous ones I had where made from very weak metal. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

The other benefit of the X5M pan is the larger aluminum heatsink
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Tight and crisp vs sloppy and flairy lol
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VB, filter, and pan installed
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I wasn't planning on executing the X5M diff swap at this time but manhandling my old stock diff out (previously) the seals were damaged and gear oil was escaping in a big way, the diff was coated and it was all over the exhaust. At this point I still had a couple days before the DDE would arrive to I decided to knock it out.
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The QMVH harness finally showed up from Latviahttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0 after being delayed ~1.5 months thanks to USPS.

With the muffler heat shielding removed you can see the grommet with 4 screws that the harness passes through up into the cargo floor where the battery resides.
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Harness ran up and over subframe, tight but I was able to thread it thankfully otherwise this part of the project would have been a much bigger pain in the butt.
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New vent pipe
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E70 X5D vs F85 X5M
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Axles in
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An expensive cocktail of fluids and count em' 6 plugs.
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Driveshaft, axles, and harness connected
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Planning my next moves getting the exhaust reworked. The OEM piping you see (axle-back) will have to go. I will likely delete the remote valve too for simplicity, we'll see but the idea is to install the IVbrant resonator in the mid section and then have either dual 2.5" pipes ran around either side of the diff OR I will get some ovalized 3" pipe which should clear the diff and still follow the OEM routing you see here.
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A little splash of Hot Shots to keep the injectors happy
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With the DDE in, turbo installed, and transmission back together it was time to run the engine and fill the trans. The engine was idling for ~8 minutes while I filled the trans and once complete I peeked up the downpipe and was happy to report it was all dry. I gave the engine a couple light revs to 3k and this is what I saw after, uugh:
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At this point I was thinking there was maybe an issue with the valve cover itself with something internal blocked. Some people mentioned I should check the injectors, that may help the smoking but it definitely wouldn't explain the oil ingress into the downpipe. I had already ordered a 5w-40 oil kit from FCP Euro. I always ran 5w-40 Rotella T6 but switched to 5w-30 Liqui Moly 2 months ago, this is also when I started to notice the smoking so I wanted to revert to 5w-40 just to observe any change. Turbo Tim also recommended 5w-40 for the hybrid setup.
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After the oil change I decided it was time for a test drive to observe the smoking but also test the new valve body, new DDE tune, hybrid turbo, and new differential. lol Lot's to test! I drove around a bit with an open downpipe which was fun and deafeningly loud at WOT but I am happy to report the smoking issue has stopped. Not sure exactly if it was the PCV/OCC, oil viscosity, or what. MeKanic. I will probably reinstall the Provent at a later date and observe if the smoking comes back.

Here is a clip of the awesome sounds an open downpipe hybrid turbo M57 makes.

The X5 is coming together post turbo upgrade and retune. I have been examining, testing, and maintaining when I can to resolve a few lingering issues. My fiance has been driving the X5 on some recent road trips so it wasn't always at my disposal so progress has been slow but we are moving in the right direction. X5 currently sits at 108k.

R90 received a new metering valve and fuel system got a new filter
System tested for boost leaks
Vacuum system checked and new pressure converters for turbos

The last (and most annoying) issue is an exhaust leak which becomes audible when the engine is warm and mainly happens between 2,000-3,000rpm. More on this later.

Replaced a faulty soft-close actuator, easy process.
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Playing around with different exhaust setups in preparation for having a custom axle-back built. That is a pleased face!
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Silicone license plate frame
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New Bosch wiper blades to pair with the new windsiheld!
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OBD splitter so I can have my P3 vent gauge and Pro Tools (or whatever else) connected at the same time.
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Nice parking spot
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Wash time before my fiance drove it around on dirt roads wine tasting lol
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Resolving fueling issue by installing a new metering valve, I also swapped the fuel filter for good measure.
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Double checking boost pipes
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I switched from the constant tension clamps to HPS worm drive. Back in 2014 or so I was getting my E61 dynoed at FFTEC up in the Bay Area and they swore by HPS worm drive clamps as they used then on all their big turbo Evos. I have been following suit on both my E61 and now E70 all run HPS clamps, no issues so far and I love their small size, space is limited on around the silicone connections on the E70 so they're a great fit.
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I took the opportunity to replace the belt tensioner too. Very easy process
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Next to test vacuum system and components
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Cleaned MAF
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Just to be triple sure there wasn't any exhaust leaking form the manifold pressure sensor banjo-connection that I had to recut threads into, I added a tiny bit of exhaust gasket sealer.
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AM coffee and pressure converters! These are what control the turbo crossover valve, turbo bypass valve, and the LP turbo waste gate. On the forums I read there can be no codes, they can test ok, but still not be 100% so it seemed like a good idea to replace all 3.
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With the vacuum "block" removed I triple checked the manifold for signs of leaks, there is absolutely zero signs of leakage around the manifold. I installed 2 new mani-turbo gaskets when installing the turbos and I even replaced the gaskets once just to be sure. Looking from above and below I can also see no signs of gasses escaping from the gaskets.
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The only place I am noticing an exhaust leak is on the crossover arm on the LP turbo. In this collage the arm was cleaned and the carbon you see on it is from a 40 mile drive. I understand there may be a tiny amount of gasses escape from here but to have that much expelled during a short drive seems excessive. Since the exhaust leak noise stops at ~3k this also makes sense that the valve would be included in that.

Moving forward my plan is to stick a Go Pro in the engine bay and hopefully get some footage of the audible exhaust leak corresponding with the movement of the arm, hopefully we can see some visible gasses too. I am smelling gasses in the cabin through the cars ventilation system when it's not on recirculation.
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Finally snagged this blank piece from an X5 at the salvage yard.
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Geeze, I need to get caught up on this thread! I guess first things first; I got married Oct 2nd out in Flagstaff, AZ. Everything was amazing. Here is a photodump of "X5 Doing Things."

Bikes check, dogs check, wedding dress in cargo box check, double check the latch on the cargo box check check!
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Always filling with renewable diesel when I can.
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In-laws used to drive a Toyota Highlander and Porsche Cayenne before I joined the family.
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The "Castle" aka Air BNB for us and our friends to party in :)
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Hike in the Aspen trees
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Fall colors at Pine Canyon
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MTB in Sedona, epic.
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Riding Hi-Line solo for the first time in the rain was a bit hairy but memorable.
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Now back to our regularly scheduled nerdy tech, maintenance, and mods content.

I had plans to fit OEM 343M wheels on the X5 but after some issues with wheels not as described and a bunch of time wasted I lost interest and ended up fitting the wheels on my E61, oh well.
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No surprise the F10 M5 wheels pair well with the F10 M5 brakes!
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Looking right at home on the wagon.
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Some small parts for the X5M diff: new grounding strap, heat shield, and exhaust hangers.
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Before
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Snagged a 335D engine cover. I liked the (kinda?) clean look without the cover and I certainly like the accessibility for wrenching but I wanted to keep the diesel clatter to a minimum and the 335D cover fits well with my custom intake.
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New cabin air filters, thanks FCP
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New Bike Day. XXL Nicolai G1
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New boost pipes
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I built up another set of 20x11 square ZL1 wheels. I do prefer the black over the graphite finish on the last set. This time I went with Toyo Proxes STIII. They come in the 295/45/20 size, are M+S rated All Season, and the price is about as low as it gets for a reputable brand tire.
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Loving the cleaner look with the black wheels.
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Cute little brakes on the Raptor :)
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Ever since I installed the aftermarket fender flares I wanted to ceramic coat them to protect from future UV damage. I finally got around to it and cleaned/coated all plastic trim. I used Avalon King.
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After
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It was inevitable.... KW V3
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The Koni Reds clashed with the yellow calipers... lol
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Much better! :)
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The Toyos had a slightly different profile than the Hankooks so I swapped the 5mm spacers for 8mm. This was with the 5mm installed. Not for the faint of heart.
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I was worried the fronts would look a bit poke-y with the larger spacers but honestly it looks perfect! More pics after I get the ride height dialed and finish another little project!
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As my age gets higher so does my ride height :) Front KWs were raised to match the rear and ditch the rake for a level ride height, very happy with the the results. I am still developing thoughts on the KWs so for those interested in feedback please sit tight.

I am happy to report the exhaust system is complete. Installing the larger (wider) F85 rear differential meant the stock piping wouldn't fit and for the a while I ran some clamps, a resonator, and a turn down off my mid pipe which terminated just before the diff. I was toying with reinstalling my QTP exhaust valve as I appreciated having the option to open the valve when I wanted to puff my M57 chest but the reality is space was now a premium and although my QTP valve has been reliable, in general they are not known for being particularly so. I again, took the mature/classy/boring? route and decided to keep the exhaust quiet by skipping the valve, keeping the OEM muffler, and also adding a Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator.

I was surprised to learn the resonator killed a lot of the turbo spool. I run the same resonator on my E61 with twin turbos and the spool is loud and piercing, not on the M57 I guess those frequencies were gobbled up. The resonator also kept the hissing and fluttery noises to a minimum which I do appreciate as the growl of the M57 comes through better. Overall the sound of the system is subtle, a bit classier/cleaner, but still has character.

I had a local shop assist with the fabrication. They welded the Vibrant resonator into my Rawtek mid pipe, fabricated piping around the rear differential to connect mid pipe to OEM muffler, and fabricated piping from the muffler to accommodate the rear tips. A couple v bands were added to make the system modular and easier to install/remove.
Everything is mandrel bent and tig welded.

Here is the layout of the system:
Rawtek down-pipe
Rawtek catted mid-pipe w/ Vibrant ultra quiet resonator
OEM E70 X5D muffler w/ OEM F15 M Sport tips

Sorry for the shit pics but you get the idea...
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Fitting F15 tips isn't for the faint of heart, it requires precise trimming and some creative fabrication skills to bring it all together. After mocking up the tips, eyeing, and measuring multiple times I was convinced it could work and proceeded to prep and trim the bumper. I traced the tip onto cardboard and then used a torx bit to extend the size, my goal was to have ~1/4" clearance around the tip, erroring on the side of "tight" and clearancing more as needed. Nothing is worse than having a hacked up bumper with excessively large holes. yuk
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I applied tape to the bumper and used both the actual F15 tip and template to scribble my cut mark, double, triple, and quadruple checking as I went.
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The driver side came out in about 20 pieces and I was a lot more proficient on the passenger side, here is the rough cut of the first pass, I came back in to clean up everything
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Unibody was also slightly trimmed
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Little OEM tip swimming in a sea of clearance.
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Initial pics after installation.
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Scratches on the bumper courtesy of the fabrication shop. Aside from this collateral damage I was very happy with their work. As you can see the bumper needed some additional clearance.
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Added tape and revised my trimming.
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Muffler/bumper fitment is so tight the bumper needs to be removed to remove muffler, not ideal but sometimes I sacrifice function for aesthetics, this is one of those times. V-band just before muffler makes this process much easier.
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I thought about painting the muffler black to match the tips but it would have been a bit of work and I wasn't convinced it wouldn't chip over time from road debris so I decided just to refurbish the muffler and piping with some wet sanding, I love how you can bring new life to metal with some elbow grease.
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Cleaned, scuffed, and primed.
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....and painted
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Final pics
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Chrome vs Black tips
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Day 0 vs Day Now :)
Funny because it looks way different but most of the work done to the X5 you can't see. More to come!!!
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Mini update.

The big news is this San Diego, CA vehicle is now a Boulder, CO vehicle as I have recently moved. The 1,000+ mile drive through CA, AZ, NV, UT, and CO was awesome and the X5 was a champ. Loaded to the gills with tools, belongings, bikes etc. it returned 22-23mpg on the drive which may not seem that great but with speeds between 80-90mph and elevation eclipsing 11,000ft through the rockies, they are satisfactory numbers. For reference the wife's Q7 4M with a few suitcases and 2 dogs, no cargo box or aero drag, only mustered 19mpg.

Also, now that I live in a fairly flat area the X5 is poised for MPG greatness. I am 1/2 way through my first tank of fuel in Boulder with mostly urban driving checking out homes for sale and I am sitting at 28+mpg which includes some spirited canyon driving and overtaking. By my calculations ~30mpg for a tank of fuel should be the new norm. Impressive considering the altitude and the fact I would get 21-24mpg per tank in CA.

Here are a couple better pics of my exhaust system as well as the "cool" X5M trans pan and differential heat sinks.
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Apparently the X5 with the KWs installed couldn't get aligned on the Hunter machines? Techs say that the machine needs to have weight added to the back of the vehicle to read specs and they weren't able to do this. Kind of a bummer since I paid for a lifetime alignment via Firestone and essentially it's now useless.
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Fresh oil change for the drive out to CO and knowing I won't have my tools available for the first few months out here.
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Some pics on the drive East
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Mini update.

The big news is this San Diego, CA vehicle is now a Boulder, CO vehicle as I have recently moved. The 1,000+ mile drive through CA, AZ, NV, UT, and CO was awesome and the X5 was a champ. Loaded to the gills with tools, belongings, bikes etc. it returned 22-23mpg on the drive which may not seem that great but with speeds between 80-90mph and elevation eclipsing 11,000ft through the rockies, they are satisfactory numbers. For reference the wife's Q7 4M with a few suitcases and 2 dogs, no cargo box or aero drag, only mustered 19mpg.

Also, now that I live in a fairly flat area the X5 is poised for MPG greatness. I am 1/2 way through my first tank of fuel in Boulder with mostly urban driving checking out homes for sale and I am sitting at 28+mpg which includes some spirited canyon driving and overtaking. By my calculations ~30mpg for a tank of fuel should be the new norm. Impressive considering the altitude and the fact I would get 21-24mpg per tank in CA.

Here are a couple better pics of my exhaust system as well as the "cool" X5M trans pan and differential heat sinks.
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Apparently the X5 with the KWs installed couldn't get aligned on the Hunter machines? Techs say that the machine needs to have weight added to the back of the vehicle to read specs and they weren't able to do this. Kind of a bummer since I paid for a lifetime alignment via Firestone and essentially it's now useless.
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Fresh oil change for the drive out to CO and knowing I won't have my tools available for the first few months out here.
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Some pics on the drive East
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30 mpg should not be a problem. Up and down the east coast gets me 28+ consistently. Cross country a couple times got me close to that as an overall average. Western US legs were netting 31+ mpg. It's fun to drive, roomy, and gets good fuel consumption numbers.

How did you like the Koni special actives? If you plan to sell them, let me know, my Bilstein B4 dampers have seen better days, i wouldn't mine trying the special actives.

They were OK, I can't find a setup that makes the X5 ride comfortably.

Been a minute. The move to Colorado has been a long 5-month process from start to finish but here we are at the end. The new garage is getting a make over and once complete I should have a nice space to work in and continue my automotive projects.

Let's start with a few Colorado lifestyle pics
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Exterior door which will be installed as a side door in the garage.
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Scored a deal on some Swisstrax (again)
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Before
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Collecting kayaks from relatives
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My plan was to have both my white E61 and black E39 Touring shipped from CA-CO but transit companies were a bunch of smoke and mirrors so I drove the E61 (knocked out the 15 hour drive in 1 day) and since the E39 doesn't run I drove the X5 out to CA, picked up a UHaul trailer, and towed it back to CO. My father accompanied me on the drive which was awesome.

With the white wagon out in CO we were just missing one....
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E39 loaded up in CA. Trailer + wagon should be about 6,500lbs. I had my pellet grill and some other household items inside the X5. Of course I forgot my keys for the E39 and had to call AAA to gain access and then drilled out my steering column to delete the steering lock. (Thanks YouTube)

CA-CO is roughly 1,100 miles so 2,200 round trip. Long but driving the drive on the 15 and i70 is absolutely beautiful. Postcard shit.
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We broke the drive up with a stop in St George, UT for sleep.
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"Trucks"
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More scenery (and pee break)
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Surprisingly the tongue weight was <500lbs.
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Made it!
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Fuel Economy. Blue is outbound CO-CA going 80+mph. Red is CA-CO return while towing, 60mph average I would say. This trucks a beast. 20+mpg towing 6,000+lbs up and over the Rockies is impressive.
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#AlwaysDirty in Colorado
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Not too much to report as most of my time has been spent remodeling the garage in which progress has been slow since other house projects keep getting in the way. Plan is to have the garage done before winter.

Colorado is a tricky place to live if you like to keep your vehicles clean (but worth it).

The X5 did receive an oil change (5k interval) but aside from that is has just been getting used. Odometer recently rolled over 120,000 miles. 40,000+ of which are under my ownership during the past 3.5 years.


Finally big the bullet and bought an EV. This is the only EV will own for a long time.
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Oil Change
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2nd wash in 3 months :/ Deeper clean with fender liners and brakes getting some love.
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Deep clean followed by driving through peanut butter mud. Can't win! lol
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Colorado Fall colors
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Great looking X! and I love the wagons too.

Hope a two post lift is part of the garage renovations (jealous)..

Wagons are the best!
Yup, I have a 30a 240v outlet ran in the ceiling in prep for a Bendpak.

That is a really cool housing situation. Can't say I've seen a house with the taller single garage door next to the double. Looks good, and super functional.

Nice cars, as always.

I am pleased to say I have some catching up to do on the build thread since the X5 has received some love recently.

We will start with some remaining pics from Fall in CO and peanut butter mud.
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Fall then turned to Winter...
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My excitement for the M57 X5 platform grows as Santjer Performance Development charges forward with development. It's nice to see a tuner FINALLY get the M57 to it's true potential. Delete + Tune is fun but this is the sort of performance I am after. You can put the hurt on X5Ms or SRT8s and then add some salt to the wound since you get 2-3x the fuel economy.

SPD now has their dual HPFP setup available for the X5, it paired with larger injectors, Tim's hybrid turbos (the turbo I run), and valve springs -this is the result. From where my X5 stands it's roughly $5k to get to this level, sign me up! The 1LE Camaro wheels look great on his X5, wonder where he got the idea! :)
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I had some poor turbo response which turned out being a vacuum leak. Ever since my original deletes I had a vac line running to my EGR pressure converter with the output capped and the cap was deteriorated. The vac system is now capped at the main vac line and the EGR PC is now fully disconnected. I was scratching my head a bit since M57s should have 28+in/hg and I was only getting 24. It wasn't until I had a conversation with my buddy who is a pilot and me mentioned vacuum decreases as elevation increases, factoring in my ~5,500ft the conversion makes my 24in/hg a near perfect 29in/hg at sea level.
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I still have this super annoying *squeal* which happens at lower RPM and vanishes at the 3,000rpm crossover. It sounds like an exhaust or boost leak and I haven't been able to find any signs or exhaust leak from the manifold or turbo connections, no signs of carbon leaking. I have replaced my ATM silicone pipes once already; they weep so much oil it's hard to ID any potential boost leaks. Eventually I will build a mainly aluminum up-pipe from the intercooler to intake with some Vanjen clamps or similar. I did notice some signs of weeping from one of my swirlflap plugs so I ordered a new set of o-rings. I doubt this is my main issue but any amount of boost that's contained is a good thing.
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As you can see in this photo the flap for the lower tailgate had broken all of it's plastic tabs for spring retention so it was just flopping around. Hilariously used beat-up ones are sold on eBay for $140 and a new OEM part was $160 from FCP. No brainer.
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From multiple times adjusting and readjusting the lower latch eyelet in hopes of getting a tight seal on the cargo hatch I damaged the threads on the unit so I snagged a used lower latch assembly from a fellow diesel owner. It was a very easy repair.
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My 2 biggest complaints with the X5 are it's poor ride quality and noise from the interior -both road/wind noise and more so the banging, creaking, and crackling of the interior. It is now time to quiet this thing down. I will be adding sound deadening materials in phases as I am able to tackle the projects, I just completed what can be considered Phase 1 which included adding Kilmat to the doors, rear hatch, and cargo floor.

I did an uncharacteristically poor job photo-documenting the project, my apologies. Here is a photo as I started the cargo floor, when I was done every section of visible metal was covered and the sections of floor which weren't covered by the carpet has Noico Red 8mm closed cell foam laid on top. My X5 originally had a 3rd row which was removed but the OEM carpet has quiet thick foam under it so I didn't add any CCF under as I thought it would be redundant.
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It's cold in Colorado but with a couple 50+F days I utilized the sunshine to warm the X5, butyl, and myself.
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Here is another "before" photo which has no "after" lol. Both of these D-pillar areas by the taillights got the treatment. With the fuse panels removed you can access a large cavity which reaches towards the fuel cap. I was able to stuff an entire 16"x10" sheet of Kilmat up there and it was nearly out of sight. All metal was covered with Kilmat and CCF.
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Hey! A before/after photo! This isn't a very critical area for sound deadening but it does show the detail work involved. Especially on the tailgate there are multiple locations for clips to mount that you must be aware of, much like this.
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Lower and upper tailgate complete
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With every trim piece removed I am adding some felt tape between plastic-plastic connections to hush the cracks and squeaks. This has been veryn effective so far and I can't wait to do the rest of the interior. STFU interior!
My driveway has a 10 degree pitch and when I would back up at an angle the cargo area would make all kinds of noises when the chassis flexed, the felt greatly reduces these noises.
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I don't have any photos of the doors but I installed Kilmat on the outer panels (installed on the inside of the exterior door panels), no CCF as I wasn't confident there would be clearance for the windows when rolled down. I am very happy with the results, the most noticeable difference is the solid "thud" the doors now have, be gone hollow resonance! Hopefully the video works, if not this is the link, if you can't hear the difference get better speakers :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKrVnQc9uCs

Build Log: M57 X5
 

I came outside to this exact sight one day. But not in Colorado, it was in Houston Texas LoL..

I kept blowing these type of caps off of the back of my manifold constantly. It took me a while to figure it out. A smoke test would have saved me a whole lot of frustration.

Those are some pretty strong numbers!! I’ll be sticking around for your update. :thumbup:


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

I'm not sure if I missed it and sorry if I did. But did you ever get a chance to test your intake against the stock intake on a dyno?

Wow, what a post!
Really appreciate you sharing your journey!

I just registered here and found this thread.

Having just purchased my first BMW (2012 M57 w/90k miles) I'm really excited for this thread.

Glad you enjoy. Detailed forum posts were (and still are) very useful information sources for me so I am glad to give back and create useful and hopefully entertaining content for others.

I have completed my sound deadening project, for now. I will add some more when it's convenient but the majority of work has been done. I made a separate thread for it here:
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ml#post1226663

Final wave of vacuum system V2
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DIY black roundels.
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With the roundel off the car I drilled a hole in the middle so I could push the metal cap out.
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Scrape and scuff
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Prep, tape, prime, paint
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3M VHB on the rear for mounting
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Inner roundel reattached with JB Weld, laser aligned!
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A couple glamour shots with the new roundels installed. I also raised the KWs to max height.
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Early Christmas gift
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Local LKQ yard treasure hunting
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First time using the ski pass in my E61!
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2nd row seat base from 2-row X5.
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After some angle grinder action
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+ sound deadening
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Cargo floor before
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Test fitting and trimming carpet and side cargo panels
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Installed, now my cargo floor is secured in place.
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Brrrr
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2022 ended with a nice road trip to Flagstaff, AZ for New Years. It was a fun opportunity to explore more of the Rockies and put the X5 to work. On the outbound trip there was "motivated" driving to get as far as possible before we hit weather a couple hundred miles in, once we hit snow the pace simmered and the second half of the trip through Durango and Cortez was mellow. I filled up just outside Flagstaff and the trip yielded 29.5mpg over the 580 miles.

On the return leg we took a different route North from Flagstaff to Moab, UT so we could take i70E and pass through Vail. With the total trip being 600+ miles from AZ to CO this was a nice opportunity to get a nice clean pull for fuel efficiency, the X5 was also free of any roof cargo box and/or mountain bike air-brakes hanging off the back.

So often the fuel efficiency deteriorates quickly with urban (or spirited) driving and having a vehicle with a long range seldomly do you get mostly highway miles on a tank. The speed limits on our route were mostly 65mph except for i70 where it was 70/75mph but weather and some congestion slowed the flow of traffic. Average speed on the return trip was ~65mph which worked to the X5's advantage as efficiency really suffer at speeds above 70mph, even with my 3.15 gearing.

On this return trip elevation was between 5,000-11,000+ft with a cumulative elevation gain of 20,000ft. No doubt the X5 would be more efficient on a level surface especially at sea level with denser air but the X5 seems to do well with rolling hills and elevation gain where there is an equal amount of elevation lost afterwards.

The X5 returned an impressive 35.5mpg over 650miles. My goal was to make the trip in 1 tank which I did easily. I calculated my theoretical range if I kept driving and it was 800+ miles for the tank! Not bad for a 5,000lb athletic brick that makes great power, runs 295 section width tires, and was filled with cargo. Can't beat the power + efficiency of a diesel. I plan on enjoying them while I can before they are phased out. It also makes me want to build a X7 M50d or SQ7 TDI here in the US. mmmmmmm Anyway, onto the pics.

My original plan was to keep my all seasons on my 20x11 wheels and put the snow tires on another 20x10 set but I didn't get my act together quickly enough and had to swap the snow tires onto my 20x11s.
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Hitting weather in the Rockies on the outbound trip ... and potty break for the doggo. Platinum Grey Metallic is such a cool color!
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Yummy
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Did I mention PGM is a cool paint color?
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Early morning departure from Flagstaff
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Following the Colorado River in Moab
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Lunch just outside Breckenridge
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Who's a good boi?
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7mph seems a bit excessive
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What an engine!
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Nice write up! The color is timeless, and the mpg’s are fantastic! :2thumbs:


E53 RiPPeR
XOuTPoST jUNkiE
ReVELaTiON 22:21

Always enjoy returning to the thread and reading the updates, your thoroughness and attention to detail, i find particularly appealing. Have you ever considered doing youtube videos?

How are you finding the vortex breather? I have noticed smoke on start up, checked my turbos, i was about to go the route of a Provent occ, but it seems like it brings on it's own set of issues, especially during winter months. Has the vortex breather solved the smoke issue? Also how much of an improvement in terms of dynamics has that rear diff with the icm module proved to be? I have one of those diffs, but i just upgraded to front and rear 3:15 diffs; debating if to get the harness and modules and install this diff (mine is from an F85).

Glad you enjoy the build thread. I have thought making some videos but it never really comes to fruition. My forum posts could essentially be used as a scripts to make the videos of but video editing would probably really be a time suck. No doubt I spend some time snapping photos and making forum posts but creating video content, at least the way I would want to do it, seems like so much more effort. Who knows, once I get my garage remodel done and get back to my touring project I will have a nice space to record some videos, never say never!

I removed my Provent when I installed my hybrid turbo as I THINK that was the cause of my turbo smoking. It haven't reinstalled to confirm. With my stock PCV system on I will get a little smoke on start up and at initial idle but I am also now in CO where it is much colder than San Diego. The only other time I have noticed smoking is when on long 4,000+ft descents out of the mountains. The first time I hit the gas after coasting for a long time there is a noticeable puff of smoke. Honestly both scenarios seem fairly normal considering the unfiltered state of my engine. There is probably room to optimize it but as you noted changing the PCV system brings on new challenges.

My torque vectoring diff is not wired up and fully functional, it's essentially a beefy open diff at the moment. I have the external wiring harness and modules but haven't tackled building the wiring harness for the inside of the vehicle. I would love to get around to it eventually but TBH it's not on the priority list compared to other projects. So many projects so little time.

Ah, but the thought of being able to flash the X5 to RWD and have a torque vectoring LSD to play around with would be awesome.
PS: I wonder if there is any tuning you can do to the rear diff since it is electronic. Ex, you could have a torque-vectoring (stock?) tune which would be best for getting around corners but have a second tune that makes the diff act more like a traditional locking/LSD.

Evan

Doing forum posts to this standard definitely takes a lot of time (for which i am hugely grateful, and i think its one of great enthusiast resources available, definitely better facebook pages), and i have no doubt, doing youtube videos to this standard, would easily triple the time. In terms of camera and lighting setups, multiple angles, multiple takes and then editing; it could quickly becoming very frustrating and may take some of the fun out of working on your car; unless you enjoy that aspect of it.

The smoking isn't a big deal for me, i just notice it more during the winter months, and if do a few quick bursts at traffic lights. I just thought i would try to address it as best as i could. I found someone that added some material to the pcv valve, that sort turns it into a catch can, filtering the oil vapor out of the mixture.

In terms of the rear diff, i feel confident its tuneable, in fact different icm modules, probably are more aggressive, sending even more power to the outer wheel, to push it into and through the corner faster.

Hi,

Been following your amazing build. Very envious. I located in Ottawa Canada and have 2011 X5 35d thats still stock. I’ve owned it since 2020 previously was my brothers ride. Just got the “incorrect def no start in 200 mls” warning this weekend. So looking at options for tunes and deletes (if need be). I’m a newbie on this stuff. Scanning your thread I think you original you thought of using JR but later I noticed you mentioned Malone. Which one are you running?

Also is it possible just to do the tune (def and egr only) and keep the dpf running while keeping all parts intact? Just looking for a good reliable daily ride. Any down sides to keeping dpf and scr intact if it’s only a def error I’m getting?

Thanks

Hey I really like how you did this with the wireless charging pad.


Do you happen to have a link to what pad that is? Where did you get it?

Thank you

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I'm also in Ontario (other side of Toronto) and have JR 2.8 on my '13 35d x5 with all deletes done. If you want to send me a private message I can point you to who did my x5 if you'd like help.

Hi ucsbwsr! Been following your build thread and getting lost in all the details. Amazing work BTW.

Are there any updates on the "Phantom Fuel" on the X5d?

Also, I'm trying to figure out some custom spec'd ESR wheels off your ZL1 wheel fitment. With the 295/45R20 tires in the front, do you notice it following road crown or grooved pavement a lot? I know on a lot of vehicles with wide front tires, following the road can be a constant battle.

Lastly, do you have any links to the wireless charging pad you used? I really like how that turned out.

I got it from Amazon but it's no longer available.

No real update on the phantom fuel system aside from it's still installed and in use.
295 section width up front does tram-line on uneven road surfaces, as you know it comes with the territory.

Charging pad was from Amazon but it's no longer available.

Hi ucsbwsr,

I am about to install a hitch on my 08 X5 and was wondering if you could go a little more in-depth on the coding required.

I am familiar with INPA and basic coding with NCS (folding mirrors and whatnot). Do you happen to have a list of everything that needs to be coded for the OEM hitch to work properly?

-Shawn

Honestly I don't remember exactly but there are guides floating around on the internet so just keep poking around. IIRC it was changing to VO and then I changed a couple things to activate the trailer mode with the rear view camera.

End of Winter Start of Spring Update.

Truck/trailer rental? No thanks!
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Passenger seat removal was key
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Fighting the good fight against winter grime
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Got caught in a snow squall on a snowboard trip. This was the drive up...
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This was the drive back (in squall)
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Aftermath, proud to say this is my best "winter coat" to date.
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X5 + SNOW + MUSHROOMS=
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Telluride is very nice, probably the most striking mountains I have seen so far in the Rockies.
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Picked up some kayaks from the in-laws. MPG wasn't great driving from Havasu, AZ to Denver.
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All 3 vehicles clean at once? Had to snap a pic
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New summer wheels inbound. Switching the 5th Gen 1LE ZL1 wheels for 6th Gen. I prefer the more traditional 5 spoke look but the wheels are still chunky, concave, and relatively light. The wheels are currently at the machine shop, then straight to the powder coated for a fresh satin black finish.
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I also snagged an exhaust manifold which will be ceramic coated. This is part of my hot-side refresh which will include new ex-manifold studs, hardware, and all new gaskets to hopefully, finally, resolve my annoying exhaust leak.
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Just rolled over 131,000 and since my last update in April I have averaged >26mpg over the past 5,000 miles, very respectable. Over the past 5 months the X5 has been a doing it's job facilitating work and play.

Mountain bike here
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Mountain bike there
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Mountain bike everywhere
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Yakin' too
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Finally got a strut for my cargo floor!
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Got my manifold back with it's ceramic coating.
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Pile-o-goodies. Oil, various filters, tie rods, and some window surrounds for the C/D pillar window. Also exhaust manifold studs, nuts, and gaskets.
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New tire deflectors
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New wheels mounted
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Washy wahsy
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Back to Work! Strapping and insulation for my garage ceiling. It will be R59!
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Back to Play!
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Driving home from a trailhead I was on a dirt road which had a lot of washboard surfaces. On the drive a small front end clunk became a front end bang-bang. When I got back onto paved roads the clunking continued so I knew something let go. When closer to home and stopped at a red light I did notice the smell of raw diesel which I thought was odd but I didn't think too much about it .....until I got home and noticed a trail of fuel in the driveway. lol

As it turns out the Phantom fuel system (which is like a small fuel filter) which was installed in-line near the OEM fuel filter had it's connection rattled loose and was leaking. For simplicity and reliability I removed the unit. This was originally installed since it is intended to "excite" the fuel and improve combustibility and therefore improve economy and performance. Hard to really extrapolate data to confirm that since there are so many variables in the mix but I figured with it now removed I can see if there are any noticeable differences.

I figured the clunking was from the Phantom fuel sysytem banging around since it was loose and was only secured with a couple zip ties. When removing the Phantom fuel system I also swapped in a fresh OEM fuel filter.

Better to have a fuel leak under the vehicle instead of the engine bay!
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Phantom system which was removed
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We replaced our utility sink with a dog wash for our good boi Oliver.
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Dog-wash also = auto parts and wheel washer!
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Going for a drive after addressing the fuel system it became very clear I did NOT resolve the clunking. Time to go back in...
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rugh rough
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RUGH ROUGH!!!
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Found the problem! Sturt mounts had 40k on them but this damage was caused by an installation error ...by me. Turns out I didn't install the metal washer on the underside of the strut mount, therefore on the rubber was keeping the strut shaft from poking through, if the washer was installed it would bottom out on the strut mount and squish the foam rings. Whoops!!
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I had some sturt mounts shipped from FCP and while I waited for them to arrive I took advantage of having the X5 in the garage and did some other maintenance.

Cabin (and recirc) filters
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New passenger handle
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Added some more sound deadening material (felt tape) to various locations on the dash to known creaky locations, back of Nav screen shown here.
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The metal grills on my P3 vent gauge were once black but have become copper-ish from, I assume, UV. So it was refreshed with Plasti Dip.
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On a side-note this style jack stand does well on the Swisstrax floor and doesn't deform or damage it.
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Time for the long overdue leather cleaning. I previously used Leatherique on my wife's Q7 which has awesome Valcona leather and the results were awesome.

Q7 leather BEFORE
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Q7 After
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Shortly after coating all of the leather in Leatherique I realized I wasn't sure is Dakota was even real leather. As it turns out it's a real leather but has a coating on top which renders Leatherique not as effective. Thankfully my leather is perforated so the cleaner can penetrate there. I followed through with the procedure knowing it's unlikely the results would be as spectacular and in the end I am happy with the results but this really makes me want to track down an X5M interior with Merino leather. No doubt the Dakota is durable but I am not a fan of the way it feels, it reminds me of Crayons and plastic.

Anywho, back to pictures!
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Here are BEFORE photos
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Leatherique Rejuvinator applied. 2.5 coats and let it sit overnight.
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Leatherique Pristine Clean applied and then leather was agitated with a horse-hair brush, wiped, and buffed. It's always a fun transformation to observe, notice how the leather has a nice matte finish.
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Steering wheel stitching before
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Stitching after
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Wheel after. There is still some shiny-ness (dirt and grease) up top so I may reapply later but overall it's a dramatic change.
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Bucket before cleaning driver seat and steering wheel
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...After
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Pokey pokey!
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Rear seat During/After
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AFTER
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New strut mounts arrived. I couldn't find my OEM strut dust shields/washers and FCP/BMW wanted $35 per washer *pfft* get outta here, to the local yard I went for some recycling.
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New strut mounts AND WASHERS installed, we're back in business.
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Yea, that's some nice rubbing. You gotta pay the the 295/45/20 tax in order to enjoy the benefits of those cushy sidewalls.
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On your fender flares, did you go OEM or aftermarket? OEM's are about $500 a set where aftermarkets are 1/2 that cost. I just worry about 1/2 the quality. LOL

They are aftermarket, quality is "fine"

X5 has been chugging along being a versatile beast, currently approaching 135,000 miles young. The pile of parts for maintenance/mods has been growing and I am looking forward to diving into a couple projects when time allows.

Here are some snaps of the X5 with some Fall colors.
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E70 x Colorado Mud - artist collaboration....
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Fall turns into Winter
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My plan was to collect/build a 20x10 square setup of OEM Style 343Ms from an F10 M5 (4 rears) but deals weren't really popping up and now winter is eminent and I decided to settle for a more conventional set of wheels.

I found a set of OEM Style 611M (F85 X5M) locally. Not an ideal setup for winter due to the wide rears. 20x10 F and 20x11.5 R Listing photo didn't inspire confidence but I am glad I went to go check them out. They were being sold by a high end used car dealership and these wheels were a second set for an F85 that was traded in. The wheels were dirty and had some very minor blemishes but met my high quality standards which was nice as I won't need to fully recondition and powdercoat them. Price was right.

The wide rears aren't ideal for winter duties but the worst part of these wheels are their weight, they're are chunky bois.

Here is the original listing photo.
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Original worn summer tires removed.
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Bath time
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Thankfully I am a BMW parts horder so I had a set of 68mm center caps laying around.
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Moment of truth....
....ooof!
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OOOOOOF!!!!
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2 wheels had very light rash and some light sanding was enough to clean most of it up. I also used a ceramic spray coating on them to help keep them slick to make winter clean up easier. Now we wait for tires, I will be running 275/45F 305/40R which is slightly narrower than stock sizes but aspect ratio is bumped up one size for more meat/cushion. Going with Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 SUV.
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I ordered a custom spec’d set of wheels using your wheel/spacer setups for reference. Your information is amazing, and your build is inspiring. Hopefully my calculations are right and I’ll be joining the 295/45R20 club soon.

Right on, glad the thread is useful! Keep in mind 295/45/20 can rub up front depending on your specific tires. It will wear itself down over time and shouldn't be an issue. You can see a pic of where it rubs in my previous post.

I don’t have my note sheet in front of me, but I figured out the offset based on the ZL1 wheels with the Toyo’s and the spacers you ran, since the Toyo’s were a bit wider if I recall than the Hankook’s. Ordered wheels with an offset so I wouldn’t need a spacer in the front, just one in the rear. Once I get everything installed, I’ll post it in a new thread and give you the credit you’re due for all the leg work.

Love the 'something of an artist myself' pic.

Just curious, why the wheel swap?

Snow/Winter. Being in Colorado there is a lot of nice weather throughout the winter but also a fair amount of snow and with weekly (ideally) trips to the mountains, putting around at 10,000-12,000ft elevation its advantageous to have winter tires on a dedicated winter wheel setup so I can swap wheels as needed.

Feels weird to throw the winter setup on the X5 when it was 68F outside but that's Colorado for you. 5-7" expected for Christmas and no, that's not an inappropriate joke. hehehaha!

With the changing of the wheels I took the opportunity to swap my spherical front thrust arms for some OEM hydro/rubber units. With the rough paved roads and frequent trips on dirt fire roads here in CO the added isolation and comfort from the OEM arms is welcomed.

I was chasing down some front end clunks which ended up being a loose bolt on the lower control arm. I also found the driverside sway bar bracket was missing on of it's bolts ...whoops. This explains not only the clunk but the very "tilty" side to side weight transfer. Hard to say how long this has been loose but my guess is quite a long time, like years as I clearly remember the clunking when driving offroad in Sedona to take engagement photos circa 2020. This sway bar bracket bolt was originally removed and reinstalled with a coolant hose clamp under it during the ATM intercooler install I assume that and the improper bolt torque led to my years of suffering listening to clunks. Should be good now!!

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I snagged a set of Michelin Pilot Alpin 5 SUV tires used and the fronts had decent tread (8/32") but the rears were questionable so I ended up buying a new pair of rears. I ended up finding a few online retailers selling them for $131/ea and my local Discount Tire which is handling my tire swaps was able to price match even though they throw their mandatory and overpriced tire insurance in the mix at $75/tire. Nonetheless I am optimistic for these tires given their sporty demeanor and initial impressions on ride quality is very positive, curious to see how they perform in real snow.

I went with 275/45/20 405/40/20 The tires in this size are actually an OEM "NO" variant and are built for E3 Cayennes. In predictable form I up sized the aspect ratio for a bit more cushion and fill of the fenders. Working within the constraints of tire options and <1% rolling diameter delta F/R for the X-Drive this is what worked. The 305 is a bit stretched on the 11.5" wide rear wheel but whatever.

Summer/All Season setup for reference
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Fronts
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Rears..... WOOOOF!!
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High contrast vs Low contrast
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Although the OEM X5M wheels are painfully heavy the silver lining is they are made for X5s so I am able to ditch the monster 30mm rear spacers that accommodated Camaro wheels.
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Took some time to fluff and buff the studs to keep the threads clean.
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Studs remounted and 12mm spacer installed
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I kept the KWs are max ride height to see how I got on with the new setup and see if I could get away without lowering it. Excessive fender gap is offensive and I have standards. It was looking pretty good.
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Then, when walking out from a store the light was hitting the tires just right to highlight that I did indeed need to lower the X5 a bit. Look at that rear fender gap "Ewww David!"
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KW adjustment range is 235mm-260mm in the front (measured from strut pinch bolt to top of threaded KW collar. I went from 260mm down to 245mm. Rear links lowered to match. This gave me ~6.25" from top of wheel to lower edge of fender flare. Originally I had 10mm spacers up front but it offered a little too much poke relative to the rear so that was dropped to 5mm. 5mmF 12mmR
Much better.
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I particularly enjoy this photo since it shows off the stance/wheel offsets but also to the enthusiast's eye you may notice the custom cold air intake, the LED light bar, and the upgraded intercooler peeking through the grills.
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I will admit I do appreciate the contrast the Style 611M wheels offer and I think the machine/gunmetal finish pairs well with the platinum grey metallic paint. Also, the machined wheels help tie in the chrome/silver headlights and aesthetically it all works pretty well. Definitely OEM+
Here are a couple collages showing the ride height Before/After

Happy Holidays!
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After getting the winter setup installed and KW adjusted down I got an alignment done (lifetime at Firestone) and the results weren't great regarding camber. The E70 lacks useful adjustment in the rear and has no camber adjustment up front, not ideal when you are lowering a vehicle.

Previously I installed Meyle HD upper wishbones with a camber adjustment but never adjusted them. I also snagged some SPC upper trailing control arms for the rear and a magnetic camber gauge so I could crudely DIY this and see the improvement.

Here are my "before" at-home measurements:

FL -2
FR -1.6
RL - 4.2
RR -4.1

"After" at home measurements:
FL -.6
FR -.5
RL -1.75
RR -2.2

"After" according to Firestone:
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I asked for them to set total F/R toe to .02 instead of .2 and they weren't able to oblige. "We got as close as we could." But I've seen many posts of E70s getting the toe down to .02 so I know it's possible. I might go to another, more competent Firestone ....if such thing exists.

Precise science! Garage floor level?
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...kinda
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SPC control arms
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Here is a look down at the top of the Meyle HD upper wishbones on the front. This is there "normal" position before.
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...and after with + camber maxed out. I couldn't find info online with their adjustment range but I think it is +/- 1 degree.
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I also installed a new K&N filter, hydro sock, and cleaned the MAF. Performance greatly improved after this. I think I over-oiled my K&N previously and Colorado grime was clogging it up. I now have a significant performance gain, like >30% power. Whoops! Once I get ISTA properly installed I will reset the MAF and injector mean as well. I've never done this even with my various intake setups.
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Local LKQ had a couple E70s so I grabbed a couple trim pieces I needed to replace broken ones and I also stumbled upon this tray/insert for the center console.
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Living a life of true luxury ...with my Carmex in a secure spot. Colorado shit.
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With temps dropping my battery was showing weakness. A bit annoying as I was trying to adjust my rear ride height via air suspension and sensors and the battery died, adding insult to injury my fancy-pants Schumacher INC-700a charger isn't powering up so I was forced to use my mobile power station / car jumper but it wasn't allowing the jump and stating the battery was in a protection mode. I was able to recover the battery over night with my trickle charger but the real solution was a new battery.

Current battery was installed shortly before I bought the vehicle ~5 years and 55k miles ago. It was an AC Delco 49AGM. 95AH 900CCA. It aside from the drop in performance with ambient temps around or below freezing it has served me well.

Replacement is Super Start AGM. 105AH, 950 CCA
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Turns out when the last battery was installed it was never registered to the vehicle so the X5 thought it has a 105AH and it really had a 95AH. That has been corrected.
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I decided to try a different intake setup. My cold air intake has served me well over the past 4+ years but I wanted to try something with better filter protection. Now that I live in Colorado (previously San Diego) I find myself driving more off road and in winter conditions where there is exponentially more airborne dirt and grime. Yes, I know there is the OEM intake I could reinstall but that's so boooooring.

Intake was mostly inspired by the system I built for my N54 which utilizes the same filter and velocity stack.
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"Less is more" was the mindset of this intake with the priorities being to minimize restriction and keep airflow smooth entering the MAF. Aside from having the outlet of the velocity stack slightly ovalized to perfectly match the MAF, this is as good as it gets. The bonus of the minimalistic design is a shorter and less expensive parts list.

Measuring hood clearances, it will be tight but possible!
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RACE TROCK!
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The straight coupler's 4" length was a bit too tall and I needed to position the velocity stack as low as possible so I cut it down to 3". The filter literally has millimeters of clearance around it and when the hood is shut the padded insulation on the bottom of the hood juuuuuust barely touches the top of the filter. The insulation has maybe 3/4" of give to it so I don't foresee any issues with the tight clearances and the engine movement while under load but it is something I will keep an eye on.
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~$200 worth of parts:
Vibrant 10960 Filter
Vibrant 10592 Velocity Stack
3.5" Coupler
3.5"-3" Reducing Coupler
HPS Worm Gear Clamps
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For those who aren't familiar the Vibrant filter and velocity stack are designed to work together.
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This filter is really stuffed into the engine bay so there were a couple modifications to accommodate. I used a large zip tie to pull the AC line out of the way and then my 335D engine cover needed a slight trim.
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Finished product (for now). Initial impressions are very positive. Overall in the intake performs just like the cold are intake with excellent response. The most noticeable difference is the added induction noises in the cabin; the *whooooses* *psst pssts* and *wuhbuhbuh* is easily heard from the driver's seat. Some might find it annoying but I love hearing what the turbos are doing. There is still plenty of noises heard from outside the vehicle as well.

I am very aware that this intake will be pulling warmer air from the engine bay and that was a sacrifice I was willing to make in exchange for the filter protection and turbo response. I plan to install an air scoop which will direct cold air towards the filter. I may also entertain building an additional heat shield to act as a partition between the filter and the exhaust manifold and turbos.
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This part ... chef's kiss.

Winter is wrapping up in Colorado, technically it's Spring but Colorado weather follows plays by it's own rules. 75F, 6" of snow, 75F, more snow...

In March we got ~18" of wet snow, not the typical light/fluffy/dry snow we normally get that can be blown away with a leaf blower. Our neighborhood isn't plowed so I took the opportunity to test the X5s ability to handle deep snow. It didn't go great. I got stuck twice but it was a lot of fun to plow the streets. Ground clearance was the main issue causing the vehicle to high side and get stuck once momentum is lost. The wide 265/305 tires didn't really help but regardless it's fun to test the capability of a vehicle. The wife's Q7 faired better.

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X5 plowing and planing the streets...
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Love me the little tailgate. Useful for transporting an exterior door.
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Snagged some more goodies to throw in the To Do pile of parts to install. OEM Individual Audio speakers and amp. Stinger amp is for an aftermarket subwoofer. Plan is to have the Stinger amp power an Audiomobile Evo 12. System will be processed with an Audio Control DSP.
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Short road trip up to Cheyenne Wyoming to collect some steel from Menards. This will be ceiling and wall coverings in my garage. Thunderstorms and strong winds on the drive. 23.5mpg for the 200mile round trip.
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For reference here is what it looks like going up
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Got some new rubber for the summer wheels. Michelin Pilot All Season 4 295/45/20. I'm excited to try the tires as they seem to be the benchmark for all seasons. I particularly like the performance to longevity ratio they offer.
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On paper the Micnelins are 6-7lbs lighter per tire compared to the Hankooks and Toyos I've ran. Once they were mounted I noticed the Michelins definitely appear narrower than the section width suggests and the sidewalls do have a stretched looks which I didn't experience with the other brands. The Michelins "look" more like a 275/285 than a 295 which was surprising but per usual form>function.

The Michelins + Camaro wheels does make for a fairly lightweight setup when you consider the 295/45/20x11 combo.
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Swapperoo
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Back to business
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This is quite a thread! It took me about 5 days to read through every post. I just bought a 2012 35d which looks almost exactly like yours did when it was stock -- same wheels, same color, same interior, but no third row/air suspension.

Question for you, if there was one mod that improved your mileage what would you say it was? 35 mpg in any SUV is pretty crazy, especially one with lots of guts. This last post said 23.5 mpg for a round trip towing a cargo trailer full of steel roofing. I have been towing my camper with my E53 for the past 8 summers, so the idea of getting even 20mpg when towing sounds like a dream.



EGR blockoff is probably in my future as I've only had it a week and it already went into limp mode with an EGR valve fault once.

Nice to see a fellow MTBer as well -- I live in Bend and try to spend as much time on the trails as I can manage. If only these pesky BMWs would stop breaking down on me.

"Deleting" the E-equipment and differential swap are probably the most influential.

A set of OEM Style 612M popped up locally and if you go back to page 1 of this build you will see that I previously owned a set when I first acquired the X5. I love the styling and the fact they are forged but when I had my last set I was on worn OEM suspension and then (even worse) lowering springs, 21" tire options were also sparse.

Flash forward to present and I am now on KW V3s with essentially all other suspension components replaced and 21" tires are way more common with the unstoppable invasion of SUV/CUVs with huge wheels. The price was right so I snagged them. The wheels have a fair amount of light-moderate rash, enough to warrant a reconditioning for my standards but after a thorough cleaning they are presentable. Plan is to give them a run to see if I can handle the ride quality and if all goes well I will likely invest in repairing the rash or maybe a full reconditioning + powder coat.

The OEM Pilot Super Sports were in great shape but too thin for my liking and I replaced them with some used, 90% tread, Pirelli Scorpion Verde in a meatier 275/40 315/35/21 configuration.

I love my OEM split 5-spoke wheels!
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Aside from the rash the wheels cleaned up nicely
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OEM 285/35
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OEM 325/30
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275/40 Pirelli
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315/35 Pirelli
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Before and Afters
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Lovely
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X5 is filthy but some pics anyway:

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It's been ~6 months since the last update, makes sense as my son is now 6 months old. lol Everything checks out!

With the addition of my son our family has officially outgrown the X5. I'm 6'8" and my wife is on the taller side so the legroom or lack thereof in the X5 is forcing me into a larger vehicle.

I'm very sad to say I'll be selling the X5 in the Spring. Yes, it's true. I planned and cared for this X5 like I was going to have it forever but along comes a kid and messes everything up! lol #DadLife

Nonetheless I am still enjoying the X5 while I have it and this eventual sale has been a nice spur in my side to complete some projects I've had on the docket for YEARS. The main one was resolving an exhaust leak I've had ever since I installed the hybrid turbo. I used a 335D LP turbo for my Tim's hybrid build since it doesn't have the EGR port in it and consequently the turbo wouldn't have the "bend straw" woo woo noise under load. But I never got to enjoy the pure M57 turbo noises since from low RPMS up until the turbo cross over at ~3,000rpm I had a *eeeeeeeee* squeal which sounded like a balloon deflating when you pull the rubber flat and make it whistle. Sooooooo annoying.

Anyway, there is a lot to cover, let's get into it...

After putting the 612M on I ended up dropping the KWs to max low. I just had to see what it would look like. I love proper fitment but the whole time I've had the KWs I ran them at max high or right in the middle. I was pleasantly surprised to discover the ride quality was much better lowered. Seems a bit counter intuitive and yes, there is limited travel in the low setting so on BIG compressions you may find the bump stop but for 99% of the road conditions I drive the suspension is much more supple, I attribute this to the reduced preload on the spring. I love the aesthetics and love the improved ride quality. This is how I've been running it ever since.
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Rear rotors had a lip developing on the perimeter so I checked life/thickness. Stamping on the rotors states min wear is 22.4mm and I was at 23.8mm so decent life left.
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Lazy man, FCP Euro, oil change
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This was THE trip when I realized the X5 wasn't going to cut it space-wise as a Dad-mobile.
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Some maintenance. New MAF, rear level sensor, crankcase position sensor, and glowplug module. Added some Hot Shots Diesel Extreme too.
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Rear taillight tint was aged, becoming hazy and even blistered in some spots. In retrospect I left it on too long and I paid the price with needing to clean up residue/adhesive off the lenses.
BEFORE
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DURING
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BEFORE/AFTER
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I intentionally left the all season Pirellis on this winter to see how they would do for local/urban driving. Turns out I forgot to flash X-Delete back to AWD from RWD so this trip to Costco with RWD and AS tires was entertaining.
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A few days later, gotta love Colorado
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Might seem like another garage photo but this one is significant since it's the first time I've had the X5 in the 3rd bay of the garage work wrenching. This space is usually occupied by the non-operational E39 project wagon but for this wave of maintenance I pushed it over to the 2 bay area and the X5 got the main spot, as it was intended with the engine bay right up to where the work benches, tools, TV, and mini-split! The garage remodel was a 2 year on-and-off project I did myself so wrenching on the X5 in the 3rd bay got all the farm fuzzies flowing.

Wife and son were out of town for the weekend to I took advantage and tried to knock out as much as possible.
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The main objective: a refinished Cerkoted OEM manifold, new gaskets all around.
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New coolant pipe (which was weeping) and gaskets for the intake manifold, thanks FCP!
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I prepped the garage with a 240v 30a outlet in the ceiling for a 2 post lift but for the time being I'm keeping it OG with the jackstand life.
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Coolant flange
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New DP gasket too
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Good Boi Oliver
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Made good progress on Day 1, I hit the exhaust manifold bolts with some PB before bed in prep for Day 2
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We lost a couple studs in the removal of the exhaust nuts.
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I had intentions to replace all studs but with the very real reality of potentially snapping studs off in the block, I wasn't brave enough to proceed and merely replaced the missing studs.
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Fresh gaskets, fresh mani, fresh nuts.
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Found my exhaust leak. Notice the split in the gasket at the 12 o'clock position and the carbon on the turbo housing. It's hard to tell but their might have been some exhaust gases mixing between the ports.
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Getting everything cleaned up and ready for install
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I replaced the F subframe too since I with a bonehead move I damaged the front cross member where the transmission cooler mounts. Having the subframe out did make the turbo removal/install much easier. New subframe cleaned and ready for install.
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Couple random pics
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The bolts for the wastegate sheared off in the old manifold and the the old banjo bolt for the exhaust manifold was in rough shape so I had some fresh parts overnighted from FCP. New sway bar end links too as one boot was weeping and one torx stud was rounded out.
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After the above parts were installed I buttoned everything up, filled the engine up with oul and coolant, and found an unexpected coolant leak which was coming from the main/large upper radiator hose where it connects to the coolant pipe I just replaced. Frustrating to say the least. My coolant pipe was original and the pipe I just replaced was Meyle HD so I chaulked this leak up to a mismatch in fitting between the parts or cimply a worn coolant pipe. I ordered another pipe but this time I went with BMW and ordered a new coolant hose as well which WILL resolve the coolant leak.

In the meantime as I wait for parts to arrive I flashed the transfer case back to AWD and used an intercooler tool to correct some PS fins which were bent from my cold air intake. The tool worked very well.
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This is Really really nice intake "race" pipe you have there. Im wondering if it is what I this it is!?

Also, as far as i understood your running front set of LT1 rims on all corners of X5, do you know how would a COMPLETE LT1 20" set would look like on our E70 platform?

I don't follow your first question.

I ran a square setup of REAR Camaro wheels. Staggered should work but you'll have to calculate offsets to see what it would look like and of course pay attention to F/R rolling diameter.

Ended up getting an OEM coolant pipe and a new hose for good measure. No leaks!
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After replacing the F subframe I thought the alignment would be all out of whack, turns out it wasn't that bad. The the camber adjustable suspension components front and rear I was able to achieve a decent alignment. No easy task with E70s which have so much neg camber from the factory.
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I had a local detailer come by do some clear coat correction on the front fenders and perform a paint optimization on the rest of the vehicle.
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Just a couple pics of the X5 doing what it does in Colorado...
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