Question about lug nut removal / reinstall tool
 

I'm going to paint my brake calipers. My question is regarding the required tool(s):

Is there (1) tool that I can buy that handles both 1) removing the lug nuts and 2) re-installing them with to the proper torque specs (I looked up the specs)

...or, do the two above tasks require (2) separate tools?

Thanks

Tom
'12 xDrive50i
Dinan Stages 1-4
514 h.p.

Get a breaker bar to take them off, and you'll need a torque wrench if you want to put them back to the exact torque specs.

If you are ok not being at the exact torque, you can get a cordless (or air powered) impact wrench that will do the job for on & off.

All of them can be found for not too much $$

For taking them off the use whatever you like - breaker bar and deep socket will be the easiest (loosen them while the car is on ground) but my recommendation is to not guess the tightening torque - use the same breaker bar to do them up 'tight' but not overly so, but then always fully tighten them with a torque wrench - and check again after 100 miles.

Painting brake calipers on the car, not removing, just paint the whole deal?!?!

Might as well leave the wheels on too, just spray though The spaces.....

;)

I’ve painted rims while they were in the car just stuffed the space is full of plastic grocery bags.

On the serious side if you’re going to work on a car used to have a battery operated impact tool in the mid torque Milwaukee M 18 is probably the most useful one.

To install are use torque sticks with the impact gun it gets it within about 5 ft·lb Which is enough to give me within the 0.5% Club of people that are within 4% of the torque spec. When I’m doing a full service job and have my torque adapter out I will also talk to them to exact value.

If you don’t have a torque wrench get a digital torque adapter instead.

I've always gone by the notion that 1/3 of a grunt is about 80 ft-lbs of torque with a 1/2 in ratchet... with gloves on. :bustingup

Never used a torque wrench for wheels in my life..... I should probably do a grunt to Nm test soon :-) [Having said that, I learned a lot of the basics from a skilled mechanic]

OP, if you have never done this, note that the force required to remove the wheel bolts is unrelated to the correct force to reinstall them. All the "pros" install them dry and seemingly use an air wrench set to "space shuttle transport " spec.

3rd of a grunt on a 20" breaker bar is significantly more torque than on the wrench supplied with the car. :rofl:

I guess at the end of the day, as long as they are tight enough to not come off, then lets not over engineer this but I stand the only true way of knowing they have met minimum spec is with a Torque wrench.

That's what I typically use. Keep in mind torque sticks don't work properly on electric impacts - they will keep tightening if the gun is kept on.

Negative. You need high enough torque they work fine. You need at least twice the rated torque for proper operation of a torque stick.

Both my 760 ft·lb high torque and my 250 ft·lb M12 Milwaukeee will work fine with torque sticks. I watch the pin hole on the socket to watch it stop that's how I know it's done (though with the high torque no need it's done by 3-4 taps off or on)

I've taken off a lot of lugs that won't come off with my 250 ft·lb tool so I'm betting that most seat of pants installs are far more than spec of roughly 100.

I've also taken off lug bolts that were at least 3mm longer than new.

If you are not mechanic and plan on using it often or other tasks a battery torque wrench is rather expensive. For only about 20%-40% of price you can get a corded electric one.

But if it doesn't work what's the point? My dad has a coded one, not impressed. Many people already have the batteries needed for a usable Impact and can buy the raw tool at a great price. Also the very first time you knock loose a rusted bolt or oxygen sensor without stripping it just paid for itself literally.

The convenience of changing a wheel where you have a flat with power tools is priceless. The convenience of no cord while working on suspension upside down not to mention a tool that is 40% smaller also priceless. You don't need to be a pro to warrant spending reasonable $ on a tool that greatly expands the jobs you can do yourself.

If just using to change weels at home and either you have one with enough power to work with torque sticks or you have a torque wrench than electric might be an ok choice.

The OP has a 500 HP e53, that should give a pretty clear indication of a suggested budget being above harbor freight electric.

Have you verified the torque? I use a Milwaukee Fuel M18 high torque impact wrench and it will over torque with the sticks. My pneumatic impacts work just fine; it's not the torque output but the frequency of the impacts that is the problem.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ccxHCwnQPY


Obviously results will vary depending on the specific impact wrench & torque stick.

Question about lug nut removal / reinstall tool
 

I've verified torque after using but I also stop once the lug stops turning. With the high torque I stop after about 3-4 impacts and it will be within ±5 ft·lb.

I never "kept going" to see if it would over torque if I tried. It's very clear when the the torque stick does it's job from the sound and vibration you have to pay attention.

With my little torque wrench I have to let it Impact like 10-13 times before it will get to set torque. Again still just close.

I think I've seen that exact video before. The mid torque wrench may impact too fast for certain torque sticks to work ideally but if you notice when he stops after a few impacts from the initial stop, it's like I said very close to the spec.

With the high torque and with the M12 250 ft·lb also does a good job.

When the guy in the video said he over torqued to 130, I could see the socket turn at 120 for sure and I think even 110 which would not be a terrible amount of over torque.

Advised torque on an M 14-1.5 10.9 is 149 ft·lb so the spec of 103 has quite a lot of safety margin to prevent damage to the bolts and I would think the wheel will act as a fine cushion to protect warping the rotor.

So... I'm quite happy with the function of the torque sticks but with the mid torque wrench it looks like some common sense might need to be put into play. I would still use the torque sticks with that wrench but clearly you just have to stop when the socket first stops

Whoa Bubba AndrewWynn, just trying to help dude. He was asking about removing wheels, due to question about remove/install am figuring he does not even do his own brakes. I am not sure how/why you seem to have gotten offended. Just trying to help the guy who doesn't seem to be experienced mechanic. The battery operated 1200 ftlb units are great, I love mine. was not arguing with you. Since you brought up HF, I also figure he would get touque wrench as well. As opposed to the torque sticks, so it can be multi use rather than mostly singular purpose.
Cyrix2k well said.

No offense taken at all.

I was basically trying to keep the concept of using Battery torque wrench and torque stick from getting derailed.

I ended up getting a torque adapter which displays the torque on an LCD screen rather than a torque wrench and am very glad I went that route and highly recommend it.

In spite of the hiccup of a possible less than perfect match with torque sticks I would still recommend the mid torque M18 for general purpose car maintenance and a torque adapter and of course torque sticks.

I bought a really convenient set of torque sticks that also includes the four most common sizes of sockets.

It has 80-90-100-110 ft·lb sticks and I use them not just for wheels but some suspension work uses torque levels that match as well.

Understood, all good.
I am not familiar with the torque adapter, I think I have seen one advertised online, but never investigated.
How is the tolerance compared to cheap/mid range click wrench?

I've seen my exact model tested on YouTube and it was spot on. The range goes from about 10-150 ft·lb but actually will read down to about 4-5 ft·lb. It's main drawback is it big enough you can't fit into some places but most often you can use extensions and get it to work. It's about 2.5" cube and needs to go between your breaker bar or ratchet and socket.

If using an air impact with a torque stick, you can tighten in an initial cross pattern at a low torque setting, then dial up the power a notch and do the pattern again to keep the loading even, and then bump up the power above the torque stick rating (assuming your stick is rated for the recommended torque) for a final torque. Or do the final pattern with a torque wrench by hand, and just use the stick to get it close.

I have used the stick and followed up with the torque adapter enough times to trust the stick I don’t usually bother hand torquing. (for wheels). Are use the target after for virtually any Twerking of parts. I said torquing but Siri thought Twerking was funnier).