Thanks - that’s great information. I’ll try to do those load tests tomorrow at the fuse box.

After going for a 30 min highway drive in the X5 around 2pm yesterday I brought it back and trickle charged it at 2amps till about 7pm. Then it sat in my heated garage (+5 Celsius) till 10am Sunday...I just checked the battery voltage and before starting was 12.1volts and then with engine running at idle it was about 14-15volts, ran it 2 minutes while testing, then shut it off the voltage was 12.02.

You may have already said this, but are you testing at the battery terminals or the “jump” posts under the hood? It will make some difference, but is a good indicator of what the car is actually seeing.

I had a mustang that killed batteries kind of like yours may be doing, tracked it back to a corroded ground strap, fixed that and added a secondary ground running directly from the battery to the frame and never had an issue again.

Only reason I suggest that is you’re seeing 14v at idle which seems to indicate the alternator is doing it’s job.

Any update on that possible parasitic drain?


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I already own a OBDLINK MX Bluetooth scanning device....can someone recommend a BMW scan software that might work with this for registering a battery?

I recently used this device along with a scanning software purchase to activate an oem factory brake controller which I had installed on a 2016 RAM 1500.

Just hoping someone might have used this device and BMW compatible software?

Update: I finally had some time so I replaced the original starter on my X5. It took me 4.5 hours to remove and replace the starter. The new starter is a Bosch OEM remanufactered starter - SR0492X and it’s working excellent..! The starter turns over the engine probably 3 times faster and starts the car almost immediately. It appears to have made a big difference. I also still need to get a scanner to register my new battery but at least it seems like I’ve solved most of my weak starting issue.

That is outstanding! I love it when the good guy wins [emoji106]

As far as a scanner, grab yourself a Foxwell 510/510 Pro - it will be money well spent in the long run as you can do all kinds of things with it. Last I looked they could be had for about 149$.

I, unfortunately, don’t know of any software that will work with your BT adapter, doesn’t mean there isn’t, I just haven’t seen any. If you have a laptop you could just bite the bullet and go with ISTA, INPA and NCSExpert, they’re free to download but you would need an OBDII cable - stuff is tough to use thousand there is a leaning curve for sure.


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Don’t check battery voltage right after turning the car off, it’s still drawing. Keep the hood open, come back after 20 mins and check again. By that time the car should have went to sleep, your voltage should be in 12.5-12.6 range.

I recommend BimmerLink app and this Bluetooth OBDII dongle. Total cost under $70 and has battery registration function. I also have Foxwell 301 and it’s POS, BimmerLink is so much better!